Corrosion Reports

[Brock O Lee]

I would love a K390 Stretch 2 XL and think it would be much more corrosion resistant than a linered model like the Endura.

Hey Dan! This is a solid argument for the K390 Stretch 2 XL that has not occurred to me before…

[R100]

I would love a K390 Stretch 2 XL and think it would be much more corrosion resistant than a linered model like the Endura.

Hey Dan! This is a solid argument for the K390 Stretch 2 XL that has not occurred to me before…

Yep, first day purchase for me. Trouble is I probably won't be able to resist the PD#1 version either!

Dan

[alphaneuron9]

I pulled apart my K390 Endura today to put some new scales on it and just as Vivi reported with his Police 4, the stainless liners had more corrosion than the blade. Weird.



Dan

Thanks for sharing. Could you provide more details? Did it get wet or experience heavy perspiration? I'm curious about the conditions that lead to rusting the liners.

I live in a part of the world that gets hot at times and I think the corrosion is mainly from sweat. I do use a food safe Camelia oil on my tool steel blades but it seems that it hasn't penetrated into the pivot as much as I thought. This knife has accompanied me on some really hot work field trips where I am doing long days and out camping in remote areas for 2-3 weeks at a time and maintenance can get a bit lax. These are the times when I
have really noticed the corrosion.

I also use my folders for food prep. I wipe them down immediately and am careful to avoid getting water in the pivots but this is probably also a source of corrosion.

Dan

Thanks a lot! I think Bar Keepers Friend or FLITZ will easily remove it.

Just dreaming of an affordable injection molded material more durable than FRN that Spyderco could use to reintroduce all Seki models linerless again

I think they should make the liners and hardware out of H2; especially since they market a "salt series". I will look for the picture, but a buddy of mine, an underwater archaeologist, lent me his caribbean to sharpen and take apart. the liners were a rusty mess. honestly should be embarrassing to spyderco.

[alphaneuron9]

Wish i had known about this thread before the last time i cleaned my knife, but heres my Lc200N pacific salt. One of my jobs is that I do fly fishing charters on the ocean and this was my knife i carried every single charter all year. Got sprayed with salt everyday, went underwater a lot, and aside from rain, never got rinsed or cleaned until last week. I got some, albeit an extremely limited amount, of rust. On the blade there was a very small amount at the edge of the grind , most came off with a oiled qtip, this was all left after (see pic. ) There was some around the pivot when i oiled it, and inside on the lock but again limited "scrubbing" removed most of it. I never had h1 dp this. But its still an incredibly rust resistant steel (not that where any doubt) If this is all i saw after a whole year, i cant imagine anyone seeing worse on a heavily carried knife in the saltwater. Great stuff. My newly ordered manix magnacut will replace it next year and eager to see how well it does compared.

I have done the comparison. Magnacut will rust with saltwater, albeit very little. In weekly saltwater I found a small but significant (mild pitting) spot adjacent the scales within 2-3 months. Give it a little more care than LC200N. rinse and dry every month type of thing.

[RazorSharp86]

I fish in the Pacific at least 3 days out of the week, and my Siren and Waterway live on either the kayak or boat all year.
Just like with all my other saltwater gear (rods, reels, etc), I give my knives a rinse every few weeks - usually tap water.
I have zero rust issues. Though I also don’t care for saltwater knives with liners, as these would be more susceptible to rusting by design.

[alphaneuron9]

I decided to see if I could even it out by forcing a patina. I just don't like the uneven patinas because in the past it have kind of mistaken grime for patina and thought the blade was "clean" when it really wasn't.

So I used some Rust-Oleum rust remover gel. It's pretty much just phosphoric acid. Left a really nice and even gray patina.

This turned out really nice. Has it evolved over time?

[alphaneuron9]

Anyone get saltwater on the M390 on a weekly basis? Wondering how it responds.

[Co Pilot]

Haven't gotten much feedback on a post I made asking about this so I thought I'd ask here, how do the Manix 2 LW's in BD1N stand up to salt water? This would mostly be a day at the beach, in and out of the water with it probably clipped to my trunks so also sweat.
I've gotten some feedback on the blade, which was great, but I'm really wondering how the CBBL will hold up, it seems a little difficult to clean in there. Most knives I've used this way the blades were fine with a wipe down with a clean cloth, I generally am able to also rinse off the knives I've used this way in tap water and dry them off at the end of the day, next day probably the latest.
Any info, especially from anyone who's actually used one in approximately this way, or worse, of course, lol, would be greatly appreciated.

[vivi]

Haven't gotten much feedback on a post I made asking about this so I thought I'd ask here, how do the Manix 2 LW's in BD1N stand up to salt water? This would mostly be a day at the beach, in and out of the water with it probably clipped to my trunks so also sweat.
I've gotten some feedback on the blade, which was great, but I'm really wondering how the CBBL will hold up, it seems a little difficult to clean in there. Most knives I've used this way the blades were fine with a wipe down with a clean cloth, I generally am able to also rinse off the knives I've used this way in tap water and dry them off at the end of the day, next day probably the latest.
Any info, especially from anyone who's actually used one in approximately this way, or worse, of course, lol, would be greatly appreciated.

Why are you interested in putting the BD1N version in such a role instead of the Salt version? Price aside the only reason I can think of is color handle preference, but the Salt version could be dyed blue or black for an extra $5.

[Co Pilot]

Haven't gotten much feedback on a post I made asking about this so I thought I'd ask here, how do the Manix 2 LW's in BD1N stand up to salt water? This would mostly be a day at the beach, in and out of the water with it probably clipped to my trunks so also sweat.
I've gotten some feedback on the blade, which was great, but I'm really wondering how the CBBL will hold up, it seems a little difficult to clean in there. Most knives I've used this way the blades were fine with a wipe down with a clean cloth, I generally am able to also rinse off the knives I've used this way in tap water and dry them off at the end of the day, next day probably the latest.
Any info, especially from anyone who's actually used one in approximately this way, or worse, of course, lol, would be greatly appreciated.

Why are you interested in putting the BD1N version in such a role instead of the Salt version? Price aside the only reason I can think of is color handle preference, but the Salt version could be dyed blue or black for an extra $5.

Because I already have a Manix 2 LW and if it will suffice don't want to buy a Salt version if it's not a big problem.

[Stas]

viewtopic.php?t=92418#p1623063

I’d personally “invest” in to the Salt version.

[vivi]

Haven't gotten much feedback on a post I made asking about this so I thought I'd ask here, how do the Manix 2 LW's in BD1N stand up to salt water? This would mostly be a day at the beach, in and out of the water with it probably clipped to my trunks so also sweat.
I've gotten some feedback on the blade, which was great, but I'm really wondering how the CBBL will hold up, it seems a little difficult to clean in there. Most knives I've used this way the blades were fine with a wipe down with a clean cloth, I generally am able to also rinse off the knives I've used this way in tap water and dry them off at the end of the day, next day probably the latest.
Any info, especially from anyone who's actually used one in approximately this way, or worse, of course, lol, would be greatly appreciated.

Why are you interested in putting the BD1N version in such a role instead of the Salt version? Price aside the only reason I can think of is color handle preference, but the Salt version could be dyed blue or black for an extra $5.

Because I already have a Manix 2 LW and if it will suffice don't want to buy a Salt version if it's not a big problem.

Oh, gotcha. Makes sense.

If you don't mind changing the looks, polishing the blade with progressively finer grits of sandpaper would make it more corrosion resistant. I'd still be concerned about the potential for rust to develop in the hardware though.

[Co Pilot]

Haven't gotten much feedback on a post I made asking about this so I thought I'd ask here, how do the Manix 2 LW's in BD1N stand up to salt water? This would mostly be a day at the beach, in and out of the water with it probably clipped to my trunks so also sweat.
I've gotten some feedback on the blade, which was great, but I'm really wondering how the CBBL will hold up, it seems a little difficult to clean in there. Most knives I've used this way the blades were fine with a wipe down with a clean cloth, I generally am able to also rinse off the knives I've used this way in tap water and dry them off at the end of the day, next day probably the latest.
Any info, especially from anyone who's actually used one in approximately this way, or worse, of course, lol, would be greatly appreciated.

Why are you interested in putting the BD1N version in such a role instead of the Salt version? Price aside the only reason I can think of is color handle preference, but the Salt version could be dyed blue or black for an extra $5.

Because I already have a Manix 2 LW and if it will suffice don't want to buy a Salt version if it's not a big problem.

Oh, gotcha. Makes sense.

If you don't mind changing the looks, polishing the blade with progressively finer grits of sandpaper would make it more corrosion resistant. I'd still be concerned about the potential for rust to develop in the hardware though.

Thanks. I think the blade steel will be fine, I've done this with VG10 and even ATS34, NOT a very stainless stainless steel, though the ATS was coated in whatever Benchmade was using at the time, Teflon I think, and haven't had much problem. But as I said I did generally rinse, wipe down and hit them with some Marine Tuff Glide and Cloth at the end of the day. Rarely has it ever even been the next day. But those didn't have the CBBL which seems to have a lot of places that are hard to get to and for water and salt to remain and that's what primarily concerns me so was wondering if anyone here had used a Manix 2 LW, or any CBBL in this manner. . The Benchmade was a liner lock, probably the ideal lock for this situation because it's so open and easy to clean out thoroughly.
I just happen to have the Manix LW and really don't like or use it too much, i was even thinking of selling it till now, and it's liner less which seems an established advantage in this use. I don't like super light knives, and thought I wouldn't mind so much if it got a little messed up. But I obviously don't want to risk damaging the lock.
Hopefully someone with experience with CBBL's in this use will chime in.

[razehound]

I have done the comparison. Magnacut will rust with saltwater, albeit very little. In weekly saltwater I found a small but significant (mild pitting) spot adjacent the scales within 2-3 months. Give it a little more care than LC200N. rinse and dry every month type of thing.

+1 on this conclusion. My MC will spot in salt water (without being cleaned), while LC/H1 continue to be unaffected. Of course the MC cleans up easy, but it's just important to note that it is a step down in corrosion resistance (although still in the 95th percentile).

[phaust]

Not a Spyderco, but here's some rusty magnacut. I live in a dry area, but the part that rusted is bead blasted and where my thumb sits. There's a reason Spyderco puts a nice satin on their Salts . The blade grind itself is satin and hasn't rusted. I have LC200N, Vanax, and H1 that is bead blasted, however, and those have not rusted. MC is very good but a step down from those three in my experience (but of course do much better than LC200N and H1 in edge holding).

[vivi]

bead blasting needs to die out in the knife world. I learned 20 years ago never to buy bead blasted knives after having some Kershaws rust in my pocket after an hour.

[James Y]

bead blasting needs to die out in the knife world. I learned 20 years ago never to buy bead blasted knives after having some Kershaws rust in my pocket after an hour.

I never understood the purpose or appeal of bead-blasting. I suppose it's an easy finish to apply, and therefore cheap. It's the most rust-prone finish, and besides that, to me it looks cheap. It reminds me of the look of those little plastic toy Bowie knives they used to sell when I was a kid.

Jim

[RazorSharp86]

Bead blasting exposes any blade to corrosion.
As Vivi said, it shouldn’t even be a thing, nowadays.

[Co Pilot]

bead blasting needs to die out in the knife world. I learned 20 years ago never to buy bead blasted knives after having some Kershaws rust in my pocket after an hour.

I never understood the purpose or appeal of bead-blasting. I suppose it's an easy finish to apply, and therefore cheap. It's the most rust-prone finish, and besides that, to me it looks cheap. It reminds me of the look of those little plastic toy Bowie knives they used to sell when I was a kid.

Jim

Jim,
Ime it was popular more in the 80's and 90's. Mostly on fixed blades, usually military and "tactical" style knives. It was to reduce reflections of light off the blade. Since most knives then were 440C, which is pretty rust resistant it worked fine, again ime.
It also actually holds any oil/rust preventative applied MUCH better than any other finish. So as long as you oiled it occasionally it was usually fine.
In the 90's when CRKT started applying it to AUS8 and especially ATS34, which is pretty low in chromium, to pocket knives that would more often get sweat on them it became problematic. Again ime. It seems to definitely been a cost saving measure in this case as they were making affordable knives. Some of the first to come out of Taiwan.
Nick

[olywa]

Hoping one of you might give me some tips on K390 rust spot removal. I have half a dozen K390 Spydies. I don't baby them but I do clean and dry them after use and put a light coat of mineral on them from time to time. Though I live in a wet climate (Puget Sound/Western Washington), I have had no issues with rust, until recently that is. I pulled my K390 Wharncliffe Dragonfly out of the knife roll yesterday and noticed 2 small rust spots. I have a lot of carbon steel blades and I am pretty verse in maintaining them and removing rust when it occurs. However, nothing seems to work with K390 when I use my usual methods. I first tried a rust eraser then Flitz. Neither method completely removed these spots. I even put some Flitz on a Dremel polishing disc and still no-go, although that did leave some burnishing on the blade. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Also wondering if anyone is successful in forcing an even patina on K390? I have several older Schrade and Case blades that I've soaked in vinegar that came out looking almost like DLC. That patina has held up very well over time and use. I'm curious as to whether anyone has tried this or other methods on K390?