I wanted to learn how to sharpen my own knives and was wondering what the community thought was the best setup. I've heard a bit about DMT benchstones and the KME sharpening system. I'm biased towards the KME system since I'm a total n00b who knows nothing about getting the right angle.
I was also told about the Work Sharp precision adjust sharpener, but it looks like you can only use their proprietary stones and it kinda seems like cheap Walmart crap vs something that I could use for years.
Would love to get your feedback and know what you guys in the community are using to sharpen your own knives.
I wanted to learn how to sharpen my own knives and was wondering what the community thought was the best setup. I've heard a bit about DMT benchstones and the KME sharpening system. I'm biased towards the KME system since I'm a total n00b who knows nothing about getting the right angle.
I was also told about the Work Sharp precision adjust sharpener, but it looks like you can only use their proprietary stones and it kinda seems like cheap Walmart crap vs something that I could use for years.
Would love to get your feedback and know what you guys in the community are using to sharpen your own knives.
Thanks,
Rob
I would second the Spyderco Sharpmaker but get the CBN or Diamond rods with it. It will make a big difference when sharpening harder steels like S90V. Plus, when turned over it can act as a flat stone, and you can practice free hand sharpening.
If you need to totally reprofile a knife, basically give it a totally new cutting edge, then something like a KME would be worth looking at.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Manix 2 LW MagnaCut, BBB 15V Manix 2, BBB 15V Para 3 LW, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, REC Para 3 10V, Pacific Salt SE H2, Dragon Fly SE H2, Chaparral SE XHP, Shaman Burlap S90V, Bodacious SPY27, Manix 2 LW 15v, Sage 5 REX-121 LW.
My S45VN PM2 seems to really enjoy the Medium/Brown corners on the sharpmaker for light touch ups. S90V I'd go with something more beefy like CBN mentioned above. Welcome to the forum!
I use the Precision Adjust with the upgrade kit all the time for reprofiling if I'm not going to free hand. When it comes to reprofiling....I would choose it 100 out of 100 times over using a Sharpmaker with CBN or Diamond stones...and also spend a lot less money.
It's not exactly cheap Walmart stuff...I've reprofiled $600 CRK's with it and they've turned out amazing.
The Sharpmaker is more of a "Sharp Keeper" in my eyes. Great for touchups, but you better have A LOT of free time if you're going to reprofile (talking hours) and also hope you can keep a steady hand/angle that entire time.
I've had my Sharpmaker for about 10 years now. It does a great job for quick touch-ups, and has been pressed into service taking chips out of harder steels (although it took a long time). Recently, I got the CBN rods, and some new brown rods, and I'm really enjoying the setup.
I also have a WorkSharp Precision Adjust that I picked up last year for $40. It does a great job reprofiling. When I first got it, I went a little trigger-happy taking all my knives down to 15º per side - including my Maxamet Manix 2. That is a really cool feature! At this point though, most of those knives have a microbevel again, from using the Sharpmaker. The Manx doesn't yet, because I haven't had to touch up the edge at all since then.
I would say that if you really want a guided sharpener, the KME is the better, more versatile option. However, the PA is good enough for most EDC knives and some kitchen knives. I still use my Sharpmaker a lot more.
Last edited by kennethsime on Fri Oct 14, 2022 9:24 am, edited 1 time in total.
I'm happiest with Micarta and Tool Steel.
Top four in rotation: K390 + GCM PM2, ZCarta Shaman, Crucarta PM2, K390 + GCM Straight Spine Stretch.
This is one of those questions where you will get numerous different, but still correct answers.
I have a KME and I recommend it, but you need some things to make it better. An electronic angle finder is a minimum add on. See Gritomatic for more worthwhile additions.
Several people have reported excellent results for little money invested using the Worksharp Precision adjust. It also can be improved by offerings from Gritomatic, including an adapter to allow you to use other stones.
Edited to add: See above, they beat me to the punch on the PA.
Fixed typo
Last edited by JRinFL on Fri Oct 14, 2022 1:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
"...it costs nothing to be polite." - Winston Churchill
“Maybe the cheese in the mousetrap is an artificially created cheaper price?” -Sal
Wicked Edge for reprofiling. Sharpmaker for touch ups
Marius
" A mind all logic is like a knife all blade. It makes the hand bleed that uses it "
( Rabindranath Tagore ) Proud member of the old school spyderedge nation
I have reprofiled several Spydies using the Sharpmaker, both PE and SE -- dozens of hours!
Then I took Rick's advice and got the Worksharp Precision Adjust. I can reprofile an S110V Manix or PM2 in less than an hour of working time; a 52100 PM2 or Military in a few minutes. I might prefer a higher-end guided system, but the Worksharp let me get my feet wet for a lot less money. Maybe eventually a KME or Hapstone, who knows...
In the meantime, Worksharp for reprofiling; Sharpmaker for serrations and PE microbevels and touchups.
Also using the WS PA since it out got. Best bang for the buck guided system, but not without its flaws. Due to the plastic construction of the neck of the clamp system, really vigorous sharpening passes will cause the neck to slightly move up and down. There are some DIY and 3d printed solutions that will support the clamping system though. It's a system that really needs some mods and aftermarket parts to be perfect. But for the money, I would recommend it.
In the meantime, Worksharp for reprofiling; Sharpmaker for serrations and PE microbevels and touchups.
This is what I currently use those 2 systems for, they complement each other very well. I do supplement the Sharpmaker with the CBN rods (makes quicker work of touching up high wear-resistance steels). And as others have mentioned, the Sharpmaker makes for a not-bad improvised benchstone when turned over if you want to freehand sharpen/reprofile (though I still recommend getting some decent diamond plates for freehand reprofiling, and I recommend practicing conventional freehand sharpening in general, it's just a good skill to have & develop if you're into knives & other hand cutting tools).
Having just reprofiled a very badly sharpened S90V PM3 the other day which I bought used, the Sharpmaker definitely works with the diamond rods, but it does take quite a bit of time. I think for a super steel like that, maybe something even more aggressive like the powered worksharp would've been better just to save time. Sharpmaker is definitely great for touchups on whichever steel though.
Having just reprofiled a very badly sharpened S90V PM3 the other day which I bought used, the Sharpmaker definitely works with the diamond rods, but it does take quite a bit of time. I think for a super steel like that, maybe something even more aggressive like the powered worksharp would've been better just to save time. Sharpmaker is definitely great for touchups on whichever steel though.
Having just reprofiled a very badly sharpened S90V PM3 the other day which I bought used, the Sharpmaker definitely works with the diamond rods, but it does take quite a bit of time. I think for a super steel like that, maybe something even more aggressive like the powered worksharp would've been better just to save time. Sharpmaker is definitely great for touchups on whichever steel though.
How much time/how many strokes?
I don't count strokes, but it took like 3-4hrs probably. I don't go particularly fast when I'm reprofiling and check my work often though so maybe someone who's better with the Sharpmaker than I am can do it a lot quicker. I don't reprofile often so the Sharpmaker has always worked fine for me over the years, but when I was doing that S90V blade I was wishing I had something that could hog off metal faster . The seller really undersold the condition of the edge.
I use the pocket DMT duosharp stones, in coarse/fine (blue/red) and extra fine/extra extra fine (green/beige). You can get a guide if you don't want to hand sharpen (https://www.amazon.com/DMT-ABG-Aligner- ... 164&sr=8-6). With only those two sets of stones you can get any steel to hair popping sharp. If you add a Spyderco ultra fine stone and diamond paste (on wood or strops) you can get a hair whittling edge.
Sharpmaker, I regret wasting money on other product. Secret is last few passes keep a very light touch and wow. I hit my kitchen knives weekly and demoted my nice flat stone to the garage.
I use the sharpmaker for to keep my users sharp. But for duller edges i also use the Worksharp Ken onion edition. And so far it gives me the best results i ever had.
. The seller really undersold the condition of the edge.