A solid, durable, sharp and badass knife!?!?!

[MIL-DOT]

I agree with the Manix2 suggestions, and not just because it's such a beefy,rock-solid knife, but also because it's only about $70 or so. Economy has got to be factored in, since the OP is essentially asking about a "beater" knife. A GB is roughly twice the price of the Manix2, and I don't know about y'all, but there ain't no way I'm trashing a really nice knife by hacking through old carpet and drywall with my (future) Gayle Bradley,LOL !!!

[Slash]

Carbon fiber handle scales don't seem durable enough to be used in the demolition of a house.
maybe go for a fluted Ti native if you really want to do the job in style. :cool:

[Blerv]

Carbon fiber handle scales don't seem durable enough to be used in the demolition of a house.
maybe go for a fluted Ti native if you really want to do the job in style. :cool:

CF is pretty durable and it's just a handle scale. The blade will see 10 times the abuse. The M4 Manix2 makes sense too.

Other SS blades won't keep up. Not unless your rocking with S90v or steels like that.

[cosmo7809]

IF your interested in the Tenacious, this should sum things up http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... work+horse

[panzeron]

I love my Para 2 but my manix is a tank ... I named the "panzer"...

[Evil D]

Step 1: Download the catalog in PDF.

Step 2: Have a scroll mouse.

Step 3: Open catalog.

Step 4: Give the scroll wheel a good hard downward flick.

Step 5: Buy whatever you land on, because they pretty much all fit this criteria.

[gbelleh]

And there are 3 more catalogs to check out since this thread was started. I wonder what the OP is using now?

[Cliff Stamp]

For the type of work you are describing, you do not want a brittle and high carbide steel which has a low grindability. What I use is Bee L01 in 8Cr13MoV. Most of the material you are cutting is going to be used/dirty and some of it is just extremely abrasive and accidental contacts are high anyway. I also like a tanto point for the secondary straight edge and secondary point, both of which have their uses. What you don't want are steels like M4, S90V, etc. which won't stay sharp any longer and will get more damaged and take more work to repair.

The most important thing is going to be the geometry. You want to set the edge thickness and angle at the lower point that they don't take significant damage. I like 0.025"/15 dps for harder work :



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If you are just doing lighter work, no real prying, no risk of hard contacts, just cardboard, carpet, scoring drywall :



Then this is a very different geometry, get it as low as you can, a true zero with a 6-8 dps edge with a 15 dps micro-bevel works well and will cut that material for a long time with no issues. I have literally 1000'+ of used carpet without sharpening even with simple steels.



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I like the Air for that type of work, but you need a stone that can handle M4 easily.

[twinboysdad]

Resilience

[wrdwrght]

I'd echo the M4 Bradley Folder, but I gotta say I'd probably go with a box cutter for drywall and carpet, if I had a choice.