SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.

[dsvirsky]

Not with the round one, but yes with the triangle or the slip.

[Michal O]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

Just get triangle rod. I bought one brown, one white. Using wooden phone stand to keep 20°. Maybe I'll buy whole set and cbn rods in future.


I like teeth on T3, I guess they evolved after influence of this thread?

[Bill1170]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

With your screen name and long presence on this forum, I’m astonished that you don’t yet own a Sharpmaker.

The ceramic round file can sharpen the big scallops, but it won’t fit into the small scallops. The triangle rod corners fit into all parts of the Spyderedge serration pattern.

[Wartstein]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

Not only, but especially since you own that SE Spydies I'd HIGHLY recommend:

Instead of buying your next Spyderco knife definitely invest the money in a Sharpmaker !!
Even if you can sharpen the large scallops one by one one with the file it really makes no sense and the process is much, much slower than what the Sharpmaker can do...

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

Not only, but especially since you own that SE Spydies I'd HIGHLY recommend:

Instead of buying your next Spyderco knife definitely invest the money in a Sharpmaker !!
Even if you can sharpen the large scallops one by one one with the file it really makes no sense and the process is much, much slower than what the Sharpmaker can do...

I thank and appreciate you helping me on this Wartstein my friend.

Darn, I was hoping to get the basic rods and use those like the other poster said.

Is your advice on this that I should get the entire kit because the angles and pressure need to be a complete unit?

[sal]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

SEF,

I would not recommend that.

Bill and Gernot are right.

I've looked a lot of serrated edges over the past 40 years with magnification and Most that were sharpened by other than a Sharpmaker were not done to my standards. They might think that they did a good job, but I don't. I designed the Sharpmaker to be able to sharpen serrations. It's really easy to get good edge on a Spyderco serrated edge with a Sharpmaker.

sal

[WilliamMunny]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

SEF,

I would not recommend that.

Bill and Gernot are right.

I've looked a lot of serrated edges over the past 40 years with magnification and Most that were sharpened by other than a Sharpmaker were not done to my standards. They might think that they did a good job, but I don't. I designed the Sharpmaker to be able to sharpen serrations. It's really easy to get good edge on a Spyderco serrated edge with a Sharpmaker.

sal

Sal,

When sharpening a SE edge on the Sharp Maker should you also “push” the knife along the stones as well as pull? I feel like only pulling the edge along the stone would concentrate the contact of the stone on the front of each serration.

[Bill1170]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

SEF,

I would not recommend that.

Bill and Gernot are right.

I've looked a lot of serrated edges over the past 40 years with magnification and Most that were sharpened by other than a Sharpmaker were not done to my standards. They might think that they did a good job, but I don't. I designed the Sharpmaker to be able to sharpen serrations. It's really easy to get good edge on a Spyderco serrated edge with a Sharpmaker.

sal

Sal,

When sharpening a SE edge on the Sharp Maker should you also “push” the knife along the stones as well as pull? I feel like only pulling the edge along the stone would concentrate the contact of the stone on the front of each serration.

I’m not Sal, but I push and pull when I reprofile a Spyderedge to a lower angle. I do this for exactly the reason you mentioned. Also, pulling more slowly helps distribute the force more evenly over all parts of the edge than pulling rapidly will do.

[sal]

Hi WilliamMunny,

I agree with Bill. I do both. Also, the slower speed, that Bill was talking about focuses force on down instead of forward and backward, which, In my opinion helps keep the abrasion to the steel more balanced. You guys are getting good at using the tool, and trying different "tricks" and sharing is good. A decent magnifying loupe also lets you see results in real time.

sal

[Evil D]

Making several short passes that add up to equal one complete pass along the serrations, focusing on downward movement rather than one long lateral movement along the entire length of the blade has been given far better results for me. I just break up the length of the blade in using 3-4 short passes that overlap each other. I learned the hard way on my K390 Police 4 that trying to reprofile the entire edge in one pass can end very badly because you're moving so much more laterally than downward, and it was especially bad with how long that edge was. I saw the same poor results on my Jumpmaster 2.

[SpyderEdgeForever]

Without getting the full Triangle Sharp Maker,, if I get the Spyderco Ceramic Round File, could I use that to keep my serrated Stretch XL Salt and Pacific Salt sharp, by sharpening the scallops and the tip/point?

SEF,

I would not recommend that.

Bill and Gernot are right.

I've looked a lot of serrated edges over the past 40 years with magnification and Most that were sharpened by other than a Sharpmaker were not done to my standards. They might think that they did a good job, but I don't. I designed the Sharpmaker to be able to sharpen serrations. It's really easy to get good edge on a Spyderco serrated edge with a Sharpmaker.

sal

Then the Sharpmaker it will be! Thank you, sal.

[Blerv]

Probably my favorite SE knife is the Massad Ayoob Cru-Wear sprint. I don’t put it through much use but it cuts through bubble wrap like a warm knife in butter.

It caught a LOT of guff for less than aesthetically perfect serrations. I don’t know all the science behind the geometry…but I feel it needs an apology thread.

[RustyIron]

several short passes that add up to equal one complete pass along the serrations, focusing on downward movement

That
Focusing primarily on fore and aft movement can result in missing the bottom of each gullet. When you give the knife more up and down movement when sharpening, it's easier to hit the bottom of the gullets, and the serration tips kind of take care of themselves.

Also, I never sharpen the flat side at the angle of the Sharpmaker. I lay the blade flat on the rod, and then just tip it up a minimal amount.

[Wartstein]

@sal @Evil D @RustyIron thanks for pointing out the importance of up and down (vs for and aft)! ... this was not obvious to me and I'll focus more on it in the future when sharpening SE

[Michal O]

Making several short passes that add up to equal one complete pass along the serrations, focusing on downward movement rather than one long lateral movement along the entire length of the blade has been given far better results for me. I just break up the length of the blade in using 3-4 short passes that overlap each other. I learned the hard way on my K390 Police 4 that trying to reprofile the entire edge in one pass can end very badly because you're moving so much more laterally than downward, and it was especially bad with how long that edge was. I saw the same poor results on my Jumpmaster 2.

Can you show how your P4 K390 looks like now after cbn treatment?

[RugerNurse]

Is there much difference between the salt 2 serrated and pacific salt serrated in H2? Or are the serrations similar?

[BeggarSo]

Hi WilliamMunny,

I agree with Bill. I do both. Also, the slower speed, that Bill was talking about focuses force on down instead of forward and backward, which, In my opinion helps keep the abrasion to the steel more balanced. You guys are getting good at using the tool, and trying different "tricks" and sharing is good. A decent magnifying loupe also lets you see results in real time.

sal

What do you think of the eliptical rods on the Gauntlet? Do they do as good of a job as the sharpmaker?

[Bill1170]

Hi WilliamMunny,

I agree with Bill. I do both. Also, the slower speed, that Bill was talking about focuses force on down instead of forward and backward, which, In my opinion helps keep the abrasion to the steel more balanced. You guys are getting good at using the tool, and trying different "tricks" and sharing is good. A decent magnifying loupe also lets you see results in real time.

sal

What do you think of the eliptical rods on the Gauntlet? Do they do as good of a job as the sharpmaker?

The thin edges of the Gauntlet’s cat-eye rods have a similar radius as the corners of the triangular rods, so I imagine that they would do a similar job to what CBN does in the Sharpmaker.

I don’t have a Gauntlet, but I use the CBN rods that fit a Gauntlet in my Galley V. Since the Galley V base is set to 10 dps, I don’t use it on my serrated folders, which are run at 15 degrees on the scallops and around 5 degrees total on the back, giving me 20 degrees inclusive.

[vnvman]

I've been carrying the Chappy non stop since I got it inside my fifth pocket and I couldn't be happier about it. It's so easy to forget about it. I just recently removed the clip since I didn't need it anyway for that sort of carry and also because it got wobbly and I was afraid of it marrying the scales with all that rocking.

Yesterday I also ordered a Tasman Salt since I found a good deal on it. Pretty curious about how this H2 steel holds up in SE. I gather the Chappie and the P4 have a better serration profile but this one is going to live clipped to my swimsuit when diving and fishing or help me with gardening and small pruning tasks, so I think it will do great. Can't wait to add another member to the family!

[Evil D]

I've been carrying the Chappy non stop since I got it inside my fifth pocket and I couldn't be happier about it. It's so easy to forget about it. I just recently removed the clip since I didn't need it anyway for that sort of carry and also because it got wobbly and I was afraid of it marrying the scales with all that rocking.

Yesterday I also ordered a Tasman Salt since I found a good deal on it. Pretty curious about how this H2 steel holds up in SE. I gather the Chappie and the P4 have a better serration profile but this one is going to live clipped to my swimsuit when diving and fishing or help me with gardening and small pruning tasks, so I think it will do great. Can't wait to add another member to the family!

Serrated hawkbills are an amazing combination. One of my earliest SE knives was one of the original Tasman and I loved it. Lost in the Atlantic Ocean though. I can't say about H2, I don't own any but if it's similar to H1 it'll be great.