So I want say that Shawn “BBB” is one of the, if not the best guy in our wonderful community. Not only is he a master of heat treats, he sure knows how to put on an edge. I’m very pleased and impressed with how sharp my Para 3 15v LW came back to me. I can’t say enough good things about Shawn and how much I appreciate what he does for the knife community. Thank you BigBrownBear!
Super cool BBB fixed the bevels and sharpened that up for you. He had a youtube community post of a BESS test with I believe your knife, and suffice to say, the edge was definitely insane
Below is an image of the edge of my Spyderco Manix 2 in CPM 15V showing the bevel finish under the microscope and the corresponding metallic stone under the microscope.
The surface finish is superior to electro plated abrasives which the KME and others use even at the same grit. Metallic bonded stones along with other bonded stones will have more longevity and performance but also will have increased cost.
Here are some images detailing some information about electro plated sharpening stones.
I appreciate this post. I remember stumbling across BBB / FSK super vitrified stones and all the rave reviews, but for someone like me just starting out w/ sharpening and trying to do it right, the cost+availability of those stones was a stumbling block, and probably overkill for first starting out.
I'm going to be building a DIY guided sharpening system, and looking at some 1x4" or 1x6" stone options. Would you continue to suggest these Poltava stones for a guided system? Do any others come to mind for good options? I've been reading a lot about lower grit sharpening philosophy (somewhere around 300-600) and also recently read some interesting things on a hybrid edge setup (250g on one side, 6000g on other side, ala HomeSliceSharpening) with great results.
I know I'll go deeper eventually, and may end up exploring freehand after the basics, but just looking to start out right. Any and all thoughts from you (or anyone else) are welcome, I'm very open minded. We have quite the combined sharpening expertise on this forum.
Be careful when you're starting out not to overwhelm yourself with options.
It can often lead to paralysis from over analysis.
Keep it simple. I stand behind my recommendation and the metallic bonded stones have been quite proven for guided sharpening applications over the past 7 years. So I'm not sharing something that's based on conjecture.
They will outlast and outcut anything in that format with superior surface finish compared to electroplated abrasives even at the same grit.
I've seen a lot of folks come and go over the years and a lot of folks will try to reinvent the wheel and they often get burned out and spend a ton of money on stuff that doesn't work.
I know personally over the past 16 years I've spent far too much money on everything that was on the market to see what worked best.
So if you want the shortcut, I'm sharing it with you otherwise that might be another hobby you're getting into which I also welcome.
Thank you Shawn (sp?) for your insights, I appreciate you taking the time. I'm probably going to grab a 400 and 600 grit, maybe eventually a 1000 grit. But I really like the philosophy of a '1 stone, 1 strop' approach for simplicity.
Not sure if this thread is the right one. But it had the right title. I consider myself a Para 3 connoisseur. With that said I have seen a lot of Para 3 blades. Many have different steels and coatings. Some from time to time have uneven grinds or blemishes. So I don’t normally have any complaints or at least voice my opinions but I want to share the latest version of Para 3 I just received. I’m not complaining and I’m very excited to use my new knife. This is how my newest piece arrived.
After I use the edge up I will rep reprofile it. I only was posting this because I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about lock stick, scratches, uneven edges, and more. I understand the concerns when spending over $100 for something you want it perfect. But even for me someone who collects Para 3’s I respect the fact that it’s a tool first. No tools are made perfect. They all have their own characteristics making them unique. Also 15v, Rex 121, and K390 are really difficult to make perfect. Like I said not complaining just speaking my mind. Sharing my thoughts. Carry on.
Got the BBB edge on there for ya Matt.
Sharpens how it should with the special heat treatment protocol. Very enjoyable, takes a good apex and gets very crisp.
1 stone, 1 strop
400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.
That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.
On its way back to you.
-shawn
@Deadboxhero Thank you so much for sharing your experience in this thread. I really appreciate it!
I am trying to figure out what Venev bonded stone matches the Poltava 400grit that you are using. I have the Venev Scorpion bonded stones from Gritomatic, but they use the FEPA-F grit classification. I don't think the Poltava uses the same classification. Do you know what classification Poltava uses and how i can convert to FEPA-F.
I have learned A LOT from your posts, and i credit you with helping me to take my sharpening to the next level. Thank you!!
Not sure if this thread is the right one. But it had the right title. I consider myself a Para 3 connoisseur. With that said I have seen a lot of Para 3 blades. Many have different steels and coatings. Some from time to time have uneven grinds or blemishes. So I don’t normally have any complaints or at least voice my opinions but I want to share the latest version of Para 3 I just received. I’m not complaining and I’m very excited to use my new knife. This is how my newest piece arrived.
After I use the edge up I will rep reprofile it. I only was posting this because I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about lock stick, scratches, uneven edges, and more. I understand the concerns when spending over $100 for something you want it perfect. But even for me someone who collects Para 3’s I respect the fact that it’s a tool first. No tools are made perfect. They all have their own characteristics making them unique. Also 15v, Rex 121, and K390 are really difficult to make perfect. Like I said not complaining just speaking my mind. Sharing my thoughts. Carry on.
Got the BBB edge on there for ya Matt.
Sharpens how it should with the special heat treatment protocol. Very enjoyable, takes a good apex and gets very crisp.
1 stone, 1 strop
400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.
That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.
On its way back to you.
-shawn
@Deadboxhero Thank you so much for sharing your experience in this thread. I really appreciate it!
I am trying to figure out what Venev bonded stone matches the Poltava 400grit that you are using. I have the Venev Scorpion bonded stones from Gritomatic, but they use the FEPA-F grit classification. I don't think the Poltava uses the same classification. Do you know what classification Poltava uses and how i can convert to FEPA-F.
I have learned A LOT from your posts, and i credit you with helping me to take my sharpening to the next level. Thank you!!
I don’t know if this helps, but here is the back of the 400 grit Poltava stone I just got on Shawn’s recommendation.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Manix 2 LW MagnaCut, BBB 15V Manix 2, BBB 15V Para 3 LW, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, REC Para 3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4, Pacific Salt SE H2, Dragon Fly SE H2, Endela K390 PE, Chaparral SE XHP, Shaman Micarta XHP, Bodacious SPY27, Manix 2 LW 15v, Sage 5 REX-121 LW.
Not sure if this thread is the right one. But it had the right title. I consider myself a Para 3 connoisseur. With that said I have seen a lot of Para 3 blades. Many have different steels and coatings. Some from time to time have uneven grinds or blemishes. So I don’t normally have any complaints or at least voice my opinions but I want to share the latest version of Para 3 I just received. I’m not complaining and I’m very excited to use my new knife. This is how my newest piece arrived.
After I use the edge up I will rep reprofile it. I only was posting this because I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about lock stick, scratches, uneven edges, and more. I understand the concerns when spending over $100 for something you want it perfect. But even for me someone who collects Para 3’s I respect the fact that it’s a tool first. No tools are made perfect. They all have their own characteristics making them unique. Also 15v, Rex 121, and K390 are really difficult to make perfect. Like I said not complaining just speaking my mind. Sharing my thoughts. Carry on.
Got the BBB edge on there for ya Matt.
Sharpens how it should with the special heat treatment protocol. Very enjoyable, takes a good apex and gets very crisp.
1 stone, 1 strop
400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.
That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.
On its way back to you.
-shawn
@Deadboxhero Thank you so much for sharing your experience in this thread. I really appreciate it!
I am trying to figure out what Venev bonded stone matches the Poltava 400grit that you are using. I have the Venev Scorpion bonded stones from Gritomatic, but they use the FEPA-F grit classification. I don't think the Poltava uses the same classification. Do you know what classification Poltava uses and how i can convert to FEPA-F.
I have learned A LOT from your posts, and i credit you with helping me to take my sharpening to the next level. Thank you!!
I don’t know if this helps, but here is the back of the 400 grit Poltava stone I just got on Shawn’s recommendation.
IMG_6520.jpeg
That is SUPER helpful. Thank you!
It appears that the Poltava 400grit is between the F240 adn F400 Venev Scorpion stones.
15v BBB para3 is better than rex121 In edge retention?
No expert but I can safely say no. BBB 15v was made to fall between K390 and Maxamet in edge retention. What makes it special IMO is that it is still a fairly tough steel and will not chip like Maxamet will but has better edge retention than K390.
I think of it as an extremely high edge retention steel you can get aggressive with.
Endura AUS-8, Manix 2 S30V, Manix 2 LW MagnaCut, BBB 15V Manix 2, BBB 15V Para 3 LW, Alcyone BD1N, PM2 Micarta Cruwear, Native 5 Maxamet (2nd), Para 3 Maxamet (2nd), Magnacut Mule, Z-Wear Mule, REC Para 3 10V Satin, Dragonfly Salt 2, GB2 M4, Pacific Salt SE H2, Dragon Fly SE H2, Endela K390 PE, Chaparral SE XHP, Shaman Micarta XHP, Bodacious SPY27, Manix 2 LW 15v, Sage 5 REX-121 LW.
Just got my first Big Brown Bear Spyderco a couple days ago! It’s also my first Para 3. I have all the next releases on watch but I might pick up a LW just to have more of a beater knife. Factory edge prob needs to be stropped but it’s very sticky and cuts great. Action is nice and the G10 feels great like the G10 sage 5 Rex 121. I like this format better than the Para 2 and stone wash is my favorite finish.
Knife ripped through double wall cardboard boxes with no change to sharpness… still cuts arm hair and goes through paper. Going to make my wife mad picking up the Manix 2 LW, micro jimbo, military 2, native 5, etc!
Nice catch. Let us know how it works for you. Shawn Houston, (BBB) frequents this forum and I'm sure he'd like to hear your thoughts on the performance of the blade.
I've had the best experience with my light weight BBB para 3 it came as closely to perfection as you can get . Shout out to National knives . Anyway I've had this in my pocket since I got it for my birthday a few weeks back when they first showed up on sites and I couldn't be happier. In Fact I bought a second just to have on hand . Something I don't do personally. But I can't wait for the micro Jimbo as I've been waiting for it in another steel other then S30v . Don't get me wrong I love S30v it's a great all around steel I just have so much of it already and really enjoy using different steels I've yet to try or had good experience with in past and 15v is some of the best steel . I love m4, k390 , my maximet pm2 tip broke within a week of me owning it (dropped two feet off couch) but 15v has stood up to beating at work with cardboard I cut daily all day at work. It also has not shown any signs of patina but I live in AZ I do work around water. But as I said weeks have gone by now it's still going strong with factory edge it's quite amazing actually. Do yourself a favor if you haven't tried this yet trust me and all the users here and give Sean big brown bears amazing steel a try!
Mendozamike89
51 spyderco knives in 20 different types of steels.
My Top 3 EDC
-1- Smock s30v with black RGT micarta and lynch clip. With Skipp 3/16"1/16"11 ball bearings.
-2- Sage 5 lw (bladehq exclusive) with black m4 steel rit dyed dark green & black lynch clip to match
-3- Shaman with cruwear dlc (knife joker exclusive) with gray micarta RGT scales and long gray lynch clip.
Hey All !
After starting this thread I FINALLY got my hands on a para3 15v G10 in Australia !!
Mine arrived perfect , no lock stick no problems with blade , absolutely perfect !
Very very happy !!
To my next questions , I will need to get a strop set up , no idea what one / compounds but the more important question .. I would love to know what oil you guys use on the 15v to keep it corrosion free?
I will be using it as my EDC , not using in food or fruit etc just your daily farm life tasks.
So how often should I oil to keep it perfect etc
Do you use the same oil/lube for blade as the compression lock?
I would love to know what Shawn uses / recommends?
Again thank you to everyone for the reply’s , thank you spyderco and Shawn BBB for an absolutely beautiful product!
Congratulation on this really beautiful version of the Para3 !
I use polish (white) for steel and chrome and some diamond paste gifted by a friend.
Frankly, so far, CPM 15V prefer ceramic (white) from my Spyderco Stuff.
With those stropping equipments I'm able to get a shiny mirror edge on Spy27 but nothing spectacular on 15V.
I have put some new pictures on my review.
It is a real tough steel but very pleasant to play with.
Your Para3 should be a razor right out of the box and the edge is thin. You can enjoy it like that for a while. ;-)
The factory edge is thin enough to got through soda bottle's butt (thicker plastic)..
Let me ask some questions,and hope some experts will respond,maybe Sal too.
Is this 15v and rex121 safe for health,food prep..? And in general that finish stone wash and satin are safe for helt and food or not?
Let me ask some questions,and hope some experts will respond,maybe Sal too.
Is this 15v and rex121 safe for health,food prep..? And in general that finish stone wash and satin are safe for helt and food or not?
Always clean your knife after sharpening. Also don't breath metal dust if you sand it.
Cleaning means "really cleaning" so it goes under hot water tap and use a brush and soap. Metal dust is not good to eat.
And you should be fine.
There is no exchange between the cleaned blade and the food which could be dangerous for your health.
My two cents and Sal knows how much I don't like Cobalt (and how much I do love Spy27) ;-)
(There is no Cobalt in 15V BTW)
Hey All !
After starting this thread I FINALLY got my hands on a para3 15v G10 in Australia !!
Mine arrived perfect , no lock stick no problems with blade , absolutely perfect !
Very very happy !!
To my next questions , I will need to get a strop set up , no idea what one / compounds but the more important question .. I would love to know what oil you guys use on the 15v to keep it corrosion free?
I will be using it as my EDC , not using in food or fruit etc just your daily farm life tasks.
So how often should I oil to keep it perfect etc
Do you use the same oil/lube for blade as the compression lock?
I would love to know what Shawn uses / recommends?
Again thank you to everyone for the reply’s , thank you spyderco and Shawn BBB for an absolutely beautiful product!
