Para3 cpm 15v BBB

[Wallach]

Speaking of Gunny Juice, I need to find a good strop to put my bottle to work, as my current well-used one is very loaded with ye olde "green stuff". Any specific recommendations specifically for 1um Gunny Juice?

[WilliamMunny]

Speaking of Gunny Juice, I need to find a good strop to put my bottle to work, as my current well-used one is very loaded with ye olde "green stuff". Any specific recommendations specifically for 1um Gunny Juice?

I have used JRE field strop I got from REC, been decent but curls up since it is not mounted. If anyone has a good, mounted strop they use I would love to hear as some of the more exotic strops get silly expensive.

Also wanted to mention the Gunny Juice owner recommends using it on wood, like paint stick rather than leather. I have not tried this myself.

[Spyderfreek]

It's really disappointing that in 2025 we still have to hunt for bonded diamond and cbn stones. I guess you have the CGSW stones now, but nothing really coming from a "big" manufacturer (I think Naniwa is the only big company). DMT, the "better" of the plated stones, aren't really that great either.

I've had no issues with my DMT plates, over probably 500 sharpenings. I can easily get hair whittling edges off them and after the initial break in period I haven't really seen any loss of diamonds.

I'd love to experiment with bonded stones but I can never find them outside of the naniwa. $180 per stone is way too steep for me.

[VandymanG]

OK so I know the Spyderco aficionados will come out of the woodworks and probably roast me on this but…….. The frn handles on this knife have a lot of hot spots so I’m wondering can I buff them out with a Dremel. And if so what’s the highest speed I should set my Dremel?

Oh and while I got roasted a little on my pivot complaint the aficionados did give some good advice and the pivot works like a dream now. Wish you all could give advice without roasting people. Especially those of us that have been members for a long while.

Where are the hot spots?

I have never sanded FRN but I would skip the Dremel. Depending on where the hot spots are I would try starting at 320-400 grit sand paper. See is that would remove enough material. You can also wrap the sand paper around something like a wooden dowel to get at concave areas better.

I think the dremel could just take off too much too fast. You can always take off more but hard to add material back.

The hot spots were along the entire edge of both scales. I used a felt polishing disc that was in one of my Dremel kits and used that to polish off the hot spots at about 10,000rpm and used a very soft touch. I ran the polishing disc down the middle of the two scales opening and closing the blade as needed. Then I ran the polishing disc at about a 45 degree angle around the inner edge of each scale. This solved most of the hot spots. My dog got bored and disrupted my finishing all hot spots so I’ll finish it up later tonight.

[Mendozamike89]

So beautiful and nice I had to buy it twice thank you Sean BBB for such an amazing heat treatment protocol and all your hard work and thank you Spyderco for all the amazing steals you allow us to test and torture or treasure whatever your preference is lol. This is the only spyderco that I bought more than one of the same exact knife just to have a back up and I own around 80 Spyderco now.

I can't believe I got one let alone two and for the price you can't beat it .

Thank you again BBB Shawn Houston and of course the whole team at Spyderco Sal, Eric and Mike J

[barnaclesonaboat]

Speaking of Gunny Juice, I need to find a good strop to put my bottle to work, as my current well-used one is very loaded with ye olde "green stuff". Any specific recommendations specifically for 1um Gunny Juice?

I have used JRE field strop I got from REC, been decent but curls up since it is not mounted. If anyone has a good, mounted strop they use I would love to hear as some of the more exotic strops get silly expensive.

Also wanted to mention the Gunny Juice owner recommends using it on wood, like paint stick rather than leather. I have not tried this myself.

I use the 6x1 strops from Gritomatic - it’s a handy size and the aluminum backing is lightweight and rigid. I have some of the cowhide ($9) and kangaroo ($15) with different emulsions on them. They work well on the fixed angle systems of course, but I find they make good hand strops, too. For the biggest blades I use an 8” paddle strop ($25 sharpal) with some 3 um Gunny juice, but really it’s not that much easier to handle than the 6x1s.

[WilliamMunny]

Speaking of Gunny Juice, I need to find a good strop to put my bottle to work, as my current well-used one is very loaded with ye olde "green stuff". Any specific recommendations specifically for 1um Gunny Juice?

I have used JRE field strop I got from REC, been decent but curls up since it is not mounted. If anyone has a good, mounted strop they use I would love to hear as some of the more exotic strops get silly expensive.

Also wanted to mention the Gunny Juice owner recommends using it on wood, like paint stick rather than leather. I have not tried this myself.

I use the 6x1 strops from Gritomatic - it’s a handy size and the aluminum backing is lightweight and rigid. I have some of the cowhide ($9) and kangaroo ($15) with different emulsions on them. They work well on the fixed angle systems of course, but I find they make good hand strops, too. For the biggest blades I use an 8” paddle strop ($25 sharpal) with some 3 um Gunny juice, but really it’s not that much easier to handle than the 6x1s.

Just ordered my Poltava Premium Metallic Bonded CBN stone 4"x1" from my KME from there. Maybe I should have also gotten a strop from them too.

[VandymanG]

Speaking of Gunny Juice, I need to find a good strop to put my bottle to work, as my current well-used one is very loaded with ye olde "green stuff". Any specific recommendations specifically for 1um Gunny Juice?

I have used JRE field strop I got from REC, been decent but curls up since it is not mounted. If anyone has a good, mounted strop they use I would love to hear as some of the more exotic strops get silly expensive.

Also wanted to mention the Gunny Juice owner recommends using it on wood, like paint stick rather than leather. I have not tried this myself.

I use the 6x1 strops from Gritomatic - it’s a handy size and the aluminum backing is lightweight and rigid. I have some of the cowhide ($9) and kangaroo ($15) with different emulsions on them. They work well on the fixed angle systems of course, but I find they make good hand strops, too. For the biggest blades I use an 8” paddle strop ($25 sharpal) with some 3 um Gunny juice, but really it’s not that much easier to handle than the 6x1s.

Just ordered my Poltava Premium Metallic Bonded CBN stone 4"x1" from my KME from there. Maybe I should have also gotten a strop from them too.

I have a Tandy leather store near me which I go too, to buy the leather myself. Current strop is double sided taped to an ironwood Burl that I currently have no way to cut myself. Both sides are planed flat. It works better than the strops I’ve bought. Maybe try that if you have a leather maker nearby?

[WilliamMunny]

I have used JRE field strop I got from REC, been decent but curls up since it is not mounted. If anyone has a good, mounted strop they use I would love to hear as some of the more exotic strops get silly expensive.

Also wanted to mention the Gunny Juice owner recommends using it on wood, like paint stick rather than leather. I have not tried this myself.

I use the 6x1 strops from Gritomatic - it’s a handy size and the aluminum backing is lightweight and rigid. I have some of the cowhide ($9) and kangaroo ($15) with different emulsions on them. They work well on the fixed angle systems of course, but I find they make good hand strops, too. For the biggest blades I use an 8” paddle strop ($25 sharpal) with some 3 um Gunny juice, but really it’s not that much easier to handle than the 6x1s.

Just ordered my Poltava Premium Metallic Bonded CBN stone 4"x1" from my KME from there. Maybe I should have also gotten a strop from them too.

I have a Tandy leather store near me which I go too, to buy the leather myself. Current strop is double sided taped to an ironwood Burl that I currently have no way to cut myself. Both sides are planed flat. It works better than the strops I’ve bought. Maybe try that if you have a leather maker nearby?

Where did you get the ironwood burl? Could make some great knife scales out of those, beautiful wood.

[VandymanG]

I use the 6x1 strops from Gritomatic - it’s a handy size and the aluminum backing is lightweight and rigid. I have some of the cowhide ($9) and kangaroo ($15) with different emulsions on them. They work well on the fixed angle systems of course, but I find they make good hand strops, too. For the biggest blades I use an 8” paddle strop ($25 sharpal) with some 3 um Gunny juice, but really it’s not that much easier to handle than the 6x1s.

Just ordered my Poltava Premium Metallic Bonded CBN stone 4"x1" from my KME from there. Maybe I should have also gotten a strop from them too.

I have a Tandy leather store near me which I go too, to buy the leather myself. Current strop is double sided taped to an ironwood Burl that I currently have no way to cut myself. Both sides are planed flat. It works better than the strops I’ve bought. Maybe try that if you have a leather maker nearby?

Where did you get the ironwood burl? Could make some great knife scales out of those, beautiful wood.

I got lucky on an order from Amazon. I showed it to a friend, who makes knives, after I put leather strops on both sides of it and he said the Burl was one of the better ones he had seen especially since I got it on Amazon. Some day when i get a ban saw I’ll use it for about 4 knife scales if it cuts OK.

[RugerNurse]

Mine arrived with a great grind and sharp. Action was great and centered.
@Deadboxhero
My kids call it papa’s bear knife. They love your logo.

[Naperville]

Got mine in the mail yesterday! Looks great.

[Sharp24/7]

Not sure if this thread is the right one. But it had the right title. I consider myself a Para 3 connoisseur. With that said I have seen a lot of Para 3 blades. Many have different steels and coatings. Some from time to time have uneven grinds or blemishes. So I don’t normally have any complaints or at least voice my opinions but I want to share the latest version of Para 3 I just received. I’m not complaining and I’m very excited to use my new knife. This is how my newest piece arrived.



After I use the edge up I will rep reprofile it. I only was posting this because I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about lock stick, scratches, uneven edges, and more. I understand the concerns when spending over $100 for something you want it perfect. But even for me someone who collects Para 3’s I respect the fact that it’s a tool first. No tools are made perfect. They all have their own characteristics making them unique. Also 15v, Rex 121, and K390 are really difficult to make perfect. Like I said not complaining just speaking my mind. Sharing my thoughts. Carry on.

Got the BBB edge on there for ya Matt.





Sharpens how it should with the special heat treatment protocol. Very enjoyable, takes a good apex and gets very crisp.

1 stone, 1 strop

400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.

That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.

[Img][/i
On its way back to you.
-shawn

Put this edge on my knife, with one exception. Had to even out the bevels with a 250 grit CGSW diamond stone. Then went to 450, followed by 1um Gunny Juice. Given how long the edge lasts, I’m very impressed with how easy it was to sharpen. I noticed it with the Manix back when the dropped, but I couldn’t appreciate it fully since my sharpening skills left a lot to be desired back then. Can’t wait to see how long this bad boy cuts!

[Red Leader]

Poltava metallic bonded cBN.

Below is an image of the edge of my Spyderco Manix 2 in CPM 15V showing the bevel finish under the microscope and the corresponding metallic stone under the microscope.



The surface finish is superior to electro plated abrasives which the KME and others use even at the same grit. Metallic bonded stones along with other bonded stones will have more longevity and performance but also will have increased cost.


Here are some images detailing some information about electro plated sharpening stones.

I appreciate this post. I remember stumbling across BBB / FSK super vitrified stones and all the rave reviews, but for someone like me just starting out w/ sharpening and trying to do it right, the cost+availability of those stones was a stumbling block, and probably overkill for first starting out.

I'm going to be building a DIY guided sharpening system, and looking at some 1x4" or 1x6" stone options. Would you continue to suggest these Poltava stones for a guided system? Do any others come to mind for good options? I've been reading a lot about lower grit sharpening philosophy (somewhere around 300-600) and also recently read some interesting things on a hybrid edge setup (250g on one side, 6000g on other side, ala HomeSliceSharpening) with great results.

I know I'll go deeper eventually, and may end up exploring freehand after the basics, but just looking to start out right. Any and all thoughts from you (or anyone else) are welcome, I'm very open minded. We have quite the combined sharpening expertise on this forum.

[Deadboxhero]

Poltava metallic bonded cBN.

Below is an image of the edge of my Spyderco Manix 2 in CPM 15V showing the bevel finish under the microscope and the corresponding metallic stone under the microscope.



The surface finish is superior to electro plated abrasives which the KME and others use even at the same grit. Metallic bonded stones along with other bonded stones will have more longevity and performance but also will have increased cost.


Here are some images detailing some information about electro plated sharpening stones.

I appreciate this post. I remember stumbling across BBB / FSK super vitrified stones and all the rave reviews, but for someone like me just starting out w/ sharpening and trying to do it right, the cost+availability of those stones was a stumbling block, and probably overkill for first starting out.

I'm going to be building a DIY guided sharpening system, and looking at some 1x4" or 1x6" stone options. Would you continue to suggest these Poltava stones for a guided system? Do any others come to mind for good options? I've been reading a lot about lower grit sharpening philosophy (somewhere around 300-600) and also recently read some interesting things on a hybrid edge setup (250g on one side, 6000g on other side, ala HomeSliceSharpening) with great results.

I know I'll go deeper eventually, and may end up exploring freehand after the basics, but just looking to start out right. Any and all thoughts from you (or anyone else) are welcome, I'm very open minded. We have quite the combined sharpening expertise on this forum.

Be careful when you're starting out not to overwhelm yourself with options.

It can often lead to paralysis from over analysis.

Keep it simple. I stand behind my recommendation and the metallic bonded stones have been quite proven for guided sharpening applications over the past 7 years. So I'm not sharing something that's based on conjecture.


They will outlast and outcut anything in that format with superior surface finish compared to electroplated abrasives even at the same grit.


I've seen a lot of folks come and go over the years and a lot of folks will try to reinvent the wheel and they often get burned out and spend a ton of money on stuff that doesn't work.

I know personally over the past 16 years I've spent far too much money on everything that was on the market to see what worked best.

So if you want the shortcut, I'm sharing it with you otherwise that might be another hobby you're getting into which I also welcome.

[Deadboxhero]

Not sure if this thread is the right one. But it had the right title. I consider myself a Para 3 connoisseur. With that said I have seen a lot of Para 3 blades. Many have different steels and coatings. Some from time to time have uneven grinds or blemishes. So I don’t normally have any complaints or at least voice my opinions but I want to share the latest version of Para 3 I just received. I’m not complaining and I’m very excited to use my new knife. This is how my newest piece arrived.



After I use the edge up I will rep reprofile it. I only was posting this because I’ve heard a lot of people complaining about lock stick, scratches, uneven edges, and more. I understand the concerns when spending over $100 for something you want it perfect. But even for me someone who collects Para 3’s I respect the fact that it’s a tool first. No tools are made perfect. They all have their own characteristics making them unique. Also 15v, Rex 121, and K390 are really difficult to make perfect. Like I said not complaining just speaking my mind. Sharing my thoughts. Carry on.

Got the BBB edge on there for ya Matt.





Sharpens how it should with the special heat treatment protocol. Very enjoyable, takes a good apex and gets very crisp.

1 stone, 1 strop

400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.

That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.

[Img][/i
On its way back to you.
-shawn

Put this edge on my knife, with one exception. Had to even out the bevels with a 250 grit CGSW diamond stone. Then went to 450, followed by 1um Gunny Juice. Given how long the edge lasts, I’m very impressed with how easy it was to sharpen. I noticed it with the Manix back when the dropped, but I couldn’t appreciate it fully since my sharpening skills left a lot to be desired back then. Can’t wait to see how long this bad boy cuts!

I love hearing stories about progress. That's really cool man. Can't wait to hear your thoughts.

[Deadboxhero]

Mine arrived with a great grind and sharp. Action was great and centered.
@Deadboxhero
My kids call it papa’s bear knife. They love your logo.

Looks fantastic, I'm happy to hear It came in looking great.

[JNewell]

400grit cBN with a 1um diamond strop finish.

That's what I prefer for this BBB CPM 15V, keeps a nice bite at the edge without over polishing.

Appreciate the concise and authoritative advice, Shawn.

I think the dremel could just take off too much too fast. You can always take off more but hard to add material back.

Yes, the four most dreaded words in the English language: "I have a Dremel..."

[ejames13]

Poltava metallic bonded cBN.

Below is an image of the edge of my Spyderco Manix 2 in CPM 15V showing the bevel finish under the microscope and the corresponding metallic stone under the microscope.



The surface finish is superior to electro plated abrasives which the KME and others use even at the same grit. Metallic bonded stones along with other bonded stones will have more longevity and performance but also will have increased cost.


Here are some images detailing some information about electro plated sharpening stones.

I appreciate this post. I remember stumbling across BBB / FSK super vitrified stones and all the rave reviews, but for someone like me just starting out w/ sharpening and trying to do it right, the cost+availability of those stones was a stumbling block, and probably overkill for first starting out.

I'm going to be building a DIY guided sharpening system, and looking at some 1x4" or 1x6" stone options. Would you continue to suggest these Poltava stones for a guided system? Do any others come to mind for good options? I've been reading a lot about lower grit sharpening philosophy (somewhere around 300-600) and also recently read some interesting things on a hybrid edge setup (250g on one side, 6000g on other side, ala HomeSliceSharpening) with great results.

I know I'll go deeper eventually, and may end up exploring freehand after the basics, but just looking to start out right. Any and all thoughts from you (or anyone else) are welcome, I'm very open minded. We have quite the combined sharpening expertise on this forum.

Be careful when you're starting out not to overwhelm yourself with options.

It can often lead to paralysis from over analysis.

Keep it simple. I stand behind my recommendation and the metallic bonded stones have been quite proven for guided sharpening applications over the past 7 years. So I'm not sharing something that's based on conjecture.


They will outlast and outcut anything in that format with superior surface finish compared to electroplated abrasives even at the same grit.


I've seen a lot of folks come and go over the years and a lot of folks will try to reinvent the wheel and they often get burned out and spend a ton of money on stuff that doesn't work.

I know personally over the past 16 years I've spent far too much money on everything that was on the market to see what worked best.

So if you want the shortcut, I'm sharing it with you otherwise that might be another hobby you're getting into which I also welcome.

Based on the pictures of that stone, it appears to be chamfered all the way around on the edges. Does this make it difficult to get all the way up to the plunge on various Spyderco models?

[Mrj]

So I want say that Shawn “BBB” is one of the, if not the best guy in our wonderful community. Not only is he a master of heat treats, he sure knows how to put on an edge. I’m very pleased and impressed with how sharp my Para 3 15v LW came back to me. I can’t say enough good things about Shawn and how much I appreciate what he does for the knife community. Thank you BigBrownBear!