The Mule Thumb Ramp

[Bolster]

The thumb ramp on the Mule is abrupt, and prone to hurt the thumb when using sabre grip, if the blade stops short. Would the mule series be "ruined" if the thumb ramp were relaxed a few degrees in upcoming mules? More of a Manix-style thumb ramp, perhaps?

That might mean the plunge line tilting a few degrees forward (ie, plunge line at spine tilting more toward tip) of how it sits now. Change one thing and it might make a chain-reaction (a change-reaction?) of other things changing, and the purpose of the Mule team is to keep everything but the steel constant from Mule to Mule.

Maybe an idea that's D.O.A. But I do wish I could find a solution for the abrupt thumb ramp other than grinding it myself and potentially running the thumb ramp past the plunge line, which would not be satisfactory IMO.

I've toyed with the idea of adding some material behind the thumb ramp to make it less abrupt but haven't had any genius ideas yet. Would Spyderco consider adding some material behind the existing thumb ramp to make it less abrupt? Adding material in this area would not affect the blade itself, or the hole patterns. But it might mess with sheath fitment.

A cobra-hood add-on maybe?

OK, I've almost talked myself out of the idea at this point; not seeing any elegant solutions. Do you have any?

[standy99]

38 already and you want to mess with perfect…..

Sal straightened the spine a little and that caused polls and outrage

[JoviAl]

The thumb ramp on the Mule is abrupt, and prone to hurt the thumb when using sabre grip, if the blade stops short. Would the mule series be "ruined" if the thumb ramp were relaxed a few degrees in upcoming mules? More of a Manix-style thumb ramp, perhaps?

That might mean the plunge line tilting a few degrees forward (ie, plunge line at spine tilting more toward tip) of how it sits now. Change one thing and it might make a chain-reaction (a change-reaction?) of other things changing, and the purpose of the Mule team is to keep everything but the steel constant from Mule to Mule.

Maybe an idea that's D.O.A. But I do wish I could find a solution for the abrupt thumb ramp other than grinding it myself and potentially running the thumb ramp past the plunge line, which would not be satisfactory IMO.

I've toyed with the idea of adding some material behind the thumb ramp to make it less abrupt but haven't had any genius ideas yet. Would Spyderco consider adding some material behind the existing thumb ramp to make it less abrupt? Adding material in this area would not affect the blade itself, or the hole patterns. But it might mess with sheath fitment.

A cobra-hood add-on maybe?

OK, I've almost talked myself out of the idea at this point; not seeing any elegant solutions. Do you have any?

The only things that come to mind are steel epoxy or silver soldering, but the former would be hideous and the latter would likely (read ‘definitely’) mess up the heat treat. If I were inclined to do it myself I’d nibble it into a new shape with a sanding drum on my Foredom. I don’t really notice the ramp though so maybe it’s a hand size thing Good luck to you in puzzling it out though!

[TTFulltimer]

I've toyed with the idea of adding some material behind the thumb ramp to make it less abrupt but haven't had any genius ideas yet. Would Spyderco consider adding some material behind the existing thumb ramp to make it less abrupt? Adding material in this area would not affect the blade itself, or the hole patterns. But it might mess with sheath fitment.

OK, I've almost talked myself out of the idea at this point; not seeing any elegant solutions. Do you have any?

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see the filler. I make all my mules with that handle shape as I intend to do some serious stabbing and I do not want my hand to move forward. I use a $14 Ottoza sheath from Amazon

[Bolster]

38 already and you want to mess with perfect…..

Sal straightened the spine a little and that caused polls and outrage

Yeah, good point. Though to be fair, Sal asked for the poll.

Does CQI apply to mules?

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see

Clever, and looks maximum comfortable.

[CasperFatone]

I decided to grind down the ramp on my first folding Mule to give it a less abrupt angle. I also added some jimping and have been very pleased with the overall feel of it.

Sorry this isn’t the best picture to show how much material I removed.

[defenestrate]

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see the filler. I make all my mules with that handle shape as I intend to do some serious stabbing and I do not want my hand to move forward. I use a $14 Ottoza sheath from Amazon

Very nice work! I don't have much space or gear but I'd definitely like to make a decent handle soon.

[sal]

38 already and you want to mess with perfect…..

Sal straightened the spine a little and that caused polls and outrage

Yeah, good point. Though to be fair, Sal asked for the poll.

Does CQI apply to mules?

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see

Clever, and looks maximum comfortable.

As Bolster stated, I did ask for the poll.

sal

[standy99]

38 already and you want to mess with perfect…..

Sal straightened the spine a little and that caused polls and outrage

Yeah, good point. Though to be fair, Sal asked for the poll.

Does CQI apply to mules?

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see

Clever, and looks maximum comfortable.

As Bolster stated, I did ask for the poll.

sal

I knew that Sal, misplaced Aussie smart ar$e comment.

I'm happy with the mules as they are. Have grown on me so ramp and nub are just part of the Mule experience.

[Evil D]

I could live without it altogether. If I ever get around to making my own scales I'm going to look into making a back spacer that fills that area in and blends it in with the spine of the handle.

[JRinFL]

Removing the hole or making it smaller would allow more room for people to adjust the ramp to their liking, though I do understand the need to keep it for trademark reasons.

[Tucson Tom]

Thanks to TTfultimer for the tip on the $14 sheath, I tracked down what looks like the item in question and will give it a try.

[hijinxtx]

I like the ramp and the mules as they are too. Doesn’t mean they couldn’t be better but I like them both.

[TTFulltimer]

Scales made with my ideal ramp, gap filled with sanding dust/epoxy mix. If you look closely at the top view you can see the filler. I make all my mules with that handle shape as I intend to do some serious stabbing and I do not want my hand to move forward. I use a $14 Ottoza sheath from Amazon

Very nice work! I don't have much space or gear but I'd definitely like to make a decent handle soon.

I travel full time so have limited space and weight carrying capability. What I found to use for these smaller wood projects.
Japanese pull saws, adjustable frame coping saw, small drill press, small table saw, small belt sander, and small oscilating spindle sander.

[burlyspyder]

This has always bothered me and I have evolved my scale design to make it comfortable. You can see my solution in my other threads. It's essentially just extending the scales to widen/extend the ramp. I also like to have the scales extend a tiny bit above the ramp to give an index/reference point for blade control.

[Traditional.Sharpening]

Actually just recently got my first Mule(s) and have to say I'm not a fan of the hole on a fixed blade along with the ramp it produces. I get it's a visual cue to their folders but there's no added function there so it's not adding value other than aesthetics and adding a potential snag point to the knife. I haven't used it enough to say if that actually happens though.

The real issue I take with it is that it causes the Boltatron sheath to have a functional sticking point when you draw the knife. Perhaps the sheath was designed to 'catch' there on purpose to aid retention but if it was done for this it does not give a consistent release tension as wiggling the knife as it comes out can cause it to sneak by the snag point easily if it turns.

[Tucson Tom]

It works for me. It is fine. It has never bothered me.

[Bolster]

...not a fan of the hole on a fixed blade ...

I take your point. However, if you ever have need to turn your mule into a spear tip (which is possible if an outing goes wrong) you'd be glad for the lashing point the hole gives.

On your other point: I also had problems with the hole when making my own Kydex sheath. As you say it added a "pinch point" that aided retention, but it also meant the Kydex nub it created nearly scraped off the Spyder logo with the friction from only a couple dozen sheathings and unsheathings. And that was with clean Kydex; imagine what happens after the sheath has been on the trail for a week or two. So I cut a dowel the width of the blade and inserted it into the hole when making the replacement sheath. That worked. I much prefer no sheath "indent" at the hole.

[Bolster]

...You can see my solution in my other threads. ...

Do you mean the octagon handle solution? I don't see any other mule handle photos than that. But yes, making a tang of the mule handle, and then adding a large octagonal handle, would obscure the thumb ramp. I don't think you ever posted a final photo of your project, however.

[TTFulltimer]

Thanks to TTfultimer for the tip on the $14 sheath, I tracked down what looks like the item in question and will give it a try.

I trimmed the sheath just a bit, and use a lanyard on the knife.