Which sharpening system for convex edge?

[munchs]

Triangle sharpmaker has been my most used system so far.
Now I want to put convex edges on my knives and feel vexed as to where to start.

I feel Military or Para3 would benefit so much more out of convex edge. I'm looking at Work sharp Ken Onion version at the moment.

Any tips and suggestions will be greatly appreciated :)

[bearfacedkiller]

I do it with a mouse pad and sandpaper. :)

[Pelagic]

Worksharp? That's my vote

Edit: oops, saw that the OP had already mentioned the worksharp. Missed that somehow.

[munchs]

Worksharp?

Yes. Worksharp.
Since it powertool, I'm a bit concerned with too much heat that might ruin the temper. Hope it's not the case.

[TomAiello]

I'm very happy with my Worksharp. I don't do my really nice (custom) knives with it--I tend to send those out for hand sharpening by a professional. But I use it on all my EDC type blades, including all my spyderco folders. I've never had any issues with it. The speed is variable, so you can run it as slow (and therefore cool) as you want, but even going fast on fairly cheap knives (like the spyderco kitchen utility knives) I've never had any problems.

I bought the standard version, and like it so much that I moved the standard to work (mostly for sharpening sewing scissors) and bought the Ken Onion edition for home.

Speaking of which, I've pretty much liked every Ken Onion design I've used. I wonder if there's any chance the the SpyKer will ever see a sprint?

[munchs]

I'm very happy with my Worksharp. I don't do my really nice (custom) knives with it--I tend to send those out for hand sharpening by a professional. But I use it on all my EDC type blades, including all my spyderco folders. I've never had any issues with it. The speed is variable, so you can run it as slow (and therefore cool) as you want, but even going fast on fairly cheap knives (like the spyderco kitchen utility knives) I've never had any problems.

I bought the standard version, and like it so much that I moved the standard to work (mostly for sharpening sewing scissors) and bought the Ken Onion edition for home.

Speaking of which, I've pretty much liked every Ken Onion design I've used. I wonder if there's any chance the the SpyKer will ever see a sprint?

Great!! I see a lot of positive feedback on the Worksharp. Guess I gotta get one and start using it. I feel that once I get the hang of it, it's gonna be one heck of convex edge maker. Thanks.

[JD Spydo]

I've been curious for quite some time if this new GAUNTLET sharpening kit that they are soon to release has addressed sharpening convex edges?

I've always found it extremely interesting that one of the undisputed kings of knife making and I'm speaking of the late Bill Moran had always said the convex edge was superior in many ways. He usually had convex edges on all of his great handmade knives and I always thought it to be extremely interesting that he would insist on convex edges.

I'm kind of surprised that one of the many mainline companies that make sharpening tools hasn't made a tool for convex edges by now?

I have wondered at times if the Arkansas Stones that are not as hard as many of the newer stones are would be great for convex edges. Being that they don't remove stock off of these newer/harder steels if they wouldn't be good for convex edge sharpening.

[dj moonbat]

Aside from looking cool, what does convexing get you?

[mb1]

Mouse pad and sand paper method here as well. It's pretty easy to do. My only issue with it is I tend to get too obtuse of an "angle" with the mouse pad having too much give. I like it for smoothing out the primary to secondary bevel line, which is another alternative in itself (convex the transition and leave the V-bevel at the edge).

It's worth experimenting with a base that is more firm (like leather or something) to vary how much curve you want in the bevel.

@dj moonbat, convex edges cut with less resistance and offer easy strop touchups. And yes, both of those points can and will be argued! Gavko has demo on YouTube cutting into 2x4 for a test, and the convex edge cut more deeply than any other...in that test.

[TomAiello]

Aside from looking cool, what does convexing get you?

There is always going to be debate on this, and I mostly convex because I find the worksharp to be the fastest, easiest sharpener for every day use, and it naturally convexes the edge. I'm not an expert, and I'm not trying to push anyone into doing convex edges on their knives. I _know_ that good sharpeners can get a much sharper knife than I can (generally using a non-convex edge), and that's why I send my really nice knives out for sharpening.

Here's a good article that debunks the most common convex edge myth, and still shows some advantages. Most of the things you see on the internet are either totally for or against, so I think this one has a good balance.

http://site.baryonyxknife.com/blog/2014 ... you-think/

This BF post makes basically the same point: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/the ... h.1180540/


Basically, the convex grind has two advantages, for some uses:

1) The smooth transition is more "aerodynamic" as the blade slices through from the edge, meaning it will generally require less force to continue a long slice through (relatively) thick material.

2) The shoulders take the load during the "slicing" and effectively move the material being cut off the edge, protecting the edge from wear during long cuts (when the edge is basically not contacting the material being cut). This translates into longer edge holding, because the edge is only in actual contact when it is making the initial cut. I could argue that this makes the cut require more force after the initial incision, but in actual practice my experience has been that it doesn't (or that the difference is so minimal that I don't notice it).

Long story short, convex grind guys will tell you the convex grind gives you a cut that requires less effort and holds the edge longer.

In the real world, just do whatever works for you.

[Pelagic]

Yeah... You can certainly have your secondary bevel start out as a perfect "V" and then have the transition to the primary grind be convex, which virtually gives you the same apex stability/edge retention (as a perfect "V" shaped secondary bevel), but makes it easier to slice through objects since there's no point where the primary and secondary bevels meet (just a smooth transition).

[ZrowsN1s]

I've heard denim stapled to a board with some metal polish works.

We were talking about the KME sharp system in another thread. They sell an accessory for convex edges as well.

[Termite Toothpick]

Doesn't stropping from a hanging belt tend to convex the edge a little bit? If your stropping base gives a little bit (like the mouse pad) then your edge will convex more. I use a WE to sharpen and I use their leather strops to finish. But then I maintain between sharpenings with a hanging belt strop. I feel that I notice the polished edge start to grow the more I strop, and that would be the shoulder smoothing out into a convex... I think!

[mb1]

Yeah... You can certainly have your secondary bevel start out as a perfect "V" and then have the transition to the primary grind be convex, which virtually gives you the same apex stability/edge retention (as a perfect "V" shaped secondary bevel), but makes it easier to slice through objects since there's no point where the primary and secondary bevels meet (just a smooth transition).

Yep, that's what I was trying to describe. I first did this with my Southfork, which was a little thick behind the edge. My wife, who I would describe as a non-knife person begrudgingly dragged into my hobby, even noticed the difference. It changed it from a knife she didn't like to one she did. That's better than data driven scientific feedback right there! :cool:

[dplafoll]

The KME has an attachment that you can use for convex edges.