I was wondering this evening what criteria everyone uses when choosing a new knife? I always find it interesting to hear what makes others tick, so if you are so inclined let's hear your preferences! Here's mine in descending order:
1. Blade length. 2.5"-3.25" is ideal for me and the #1 factor in knife choice. If the knife is very special to me I might stray
from this, but it must be very interesting i.e. my Meerkat with 2" blade.
2. Blade width. 2.5-3.0mm is ideal for me and I really won't stray from that.
3. Handle length. 85mm-105mm is what I find fits my hand and can also easily be carried in my pocket.
4. Lock or lack thereof. I prefer backlock or Slipit, but might try a linerlock in the Alcyone soon.
5. Handle material. I prefer G10 or FRN. Mostly for budget reasons I stay away from anything else.
6. Blade steel. I admit that I am not a steel junky and don't really understand the differences in steels. I trust Spyderco to
put out a good, useful steel that I can use and not be concerned with performance. I know lots of people really enjoy the
different steels, and that is great, I just don't have the knowledge or training to comprehend or appreciate them like
others do. So, I try to go with VG10 or a US made steel.
7. Country of origin. I prefer US, Japan or Italy, but will be trying a Persistence when it arrives next week, so if that knife is
satisfactory, then this criterium will remain the least important, though I don't yet own a knife made in Italy either.
These are my personal "guidelines" for knife purchases. Feel free to share yours and maybe I can refine mine, or just have fun learning what everyone else does as we are all different! Thank you for reading!
Criteria for choosing a knife
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Aladinsane
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- Location: Western NC, USA
Criteria for choosing a knife
-Jeff-
A falling knife has no handle!
A falling knife has no handle!
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
In no particular order:
- $200 or less per blade
- $80 or less if made in China
- If a budget version of a design exists, I generally choose that (e.g. 4 max vs 4 max scout)
- I primarily stick to knives with handles that accomodate a full grip with an XXL hand size (some exceptions, like Victorinox Classic)
- For modern folders, 3.75" blades are the smallest I typically buy. If I'm buying a knife with a shorter blade than that, chances are it's a Victorinox or something. I much prefer 4"-5" blades than smaller ones for one handed locking folders due to their versaility.
- Strongly prefer stainless steels for folders. Sometimes I make exceptions for interesting Spyderco sprints (m4 manix xl) or traditionals I think would look nice with a patina (opinel, case trapper, etc.)
- Very much not a steel snob. I really enjoy basic steels like 420HC, 1095, etc.
- I avoid serrations. I've tried many different styles from different companies and in my experience they perform worse on most materials than plain edge, are a pain to reprofile, and require more specialized equipment to sharpen. More cons than pros, pass.
- Combos of black and green are more likely to get my $$.
- DLC blades and coated hardware are appreciated for both slick looks and enhanced corrosion resistance.
- Strongly prefer opening holes to thumb studs, but will buy stud knives if I like the other features.
- Not monogamous to Spyderco or any other brand. I go with any brand that offers a combination of good design & good value.
- I try to envision a use for every purchase I make. I don't buy knives just to collect them.
- Going further with the above, I buy knives solely as users. Sometimes I acquire pre-need backups or harder to find models (recon xl's for example), but I don't buy knives to hold on to them, as an investment, or to pass on to my children.
- I like em thick. Handles, that is. One of my biggest criticisms of the Spyderco brand is prioritizing in pocket comfort too much compared to in hand comfort, as it relates to handle thickness. Knives like Voyagers and 110's do this part well.
- I try to remain open minded. I know what works best for me (4-5" bladed folders with stainless blades and thick handles), but I'm willing to try something different here and there.
- I basically only buy lockbacks when it comes to locking folders. I'll buy other locks here and there, but for every liner lock or compression lock I buy, I have 10 lockbacks. The last frame lock I bought was about 20 years ago, I own no axis style locks, no compression locks, no liner locks besides two Military folders and a Vic One Handed Trekker, etc.
- No autos, balisongs or assisted openers. Not a fan of them, not a fan of the additional legal challenges they can bring.
- I don't buy knives as weapons. I buy guns as weapons.
- When it comes to fixed blades I prefer sheath systems that allow me to clip the knife to my waistband. I am not a fan of sheaths that require a belt, especially ones that require undoing a belt to remove the sheath. For example, tek loks require a belt, G clips can use a waistband.
- I'd generally rather buy a handful of $15-50 knives than one $200 knife. Diminishing returns and all.
- I try my best to avoid buying knives with sharpening notches. They're one of the dumbest things you can put on a knife design. Sometimes I cave though if I like everything else about the design (SRK, Victorinox SAKs, etc.)
- Function > fashion.
- $200 or less per blade
- $80 or less if made in China
- If a budget version of a design exists, I generally choose that (e.g. 4 max vs 4 max scout)
- I primarily stick to knives with handles that accomodate a full grip with an XXL hand size (some exceptions, like Victorinox Classic)
- For modern folders, 3.75" blades are the smallest I typically buy. If I'm buying a knife with a shorter blade than that, chances are it's a Victorinox or something. I much prefer 4"-5" blades than smaller ones for one handed locking folders due to their versaility.
- Strongly prefer stainless steels for folders. Sometimes I make exceptions for interesting Spyderco sprints (m4 manix xl) or traditionals I think would look nice with a patina (opinel, case trapper, etc.)
- Very much not a steel snob. I really enjoy basic steels like 420HC, 1095, etc.
- I avoid serrations. I've tried many different styles from different companies and in my experience they perform worse on most materials than plain edge, are a pain to reprofile, and require more specialized equipment to sharpen. More cons than pros, pass.
- Combos of black and green are more likely to get my $$.
- DLC blades and coated hardware are appreciated for both slick looks and enhanced corrosion resistance.
- Strongly prefer opening holes to thumb studs, but will buy stud knives if I like the other features.
- Not monogamous to Spyderco or any other brand. I go with any brand that offers a combination of good design & good value.
- I try to envision a use for every purchase I make. I don't buy knives just to collect them.
- Going further with the above, I buy knives solely as users. Sometimes I acquire pre-need backups or harder to find models (recon xl's for example), but I don't buy knives to hold on to them, as an investment, or to pass on to my children.
- I like em thick. Handles, that is. One of my biggest criticisms of the Spyderco brand is prioritizing in pocket comfort too much compared to in hand comfort, as it relates to handle thickness. Knives like Voyagers and 110's do this part well.
- I try to remain open minded. I know what works best for me (4-5" bladed folders with stainless blades and thick handles), but I'm willing to try something different here and there.
- I basically only buy lockbacks when it comes to locking folders. I'll buy other locks here and there, but for every liner lock or compression lock I buy, I have 10 lockbacks. The last frame lock I bought was about 20 years ago, I own no axis style locks, no compression locks, no liner locks besides two Military folders and a Vic One Handed Trekker, etc.
- No autos, balisongs or assisted openers. Not a fan of them, not a fan of the additional legal challenges they can bring.
- I don't buy knives as weapons. I buy guns as weapons.
- When it comes to fixed blades I prefer sheath systems that allow me to clip the knife to my waistband. I am not a fan of sheaths that require a belt, especially ones that require undoing a belt to remove the sheath. For example, tek loks require a belt, G clips can use a waistband.
- I'd generally rather buy a handful of $15-50 knives than one $200 knife. Diminishing returns and all.
- I try my best to avoid buying knives with sharpening notches. They're one of the dumbest things you can put on a knife design. Sometimes I cave though if I like everything else about the design (SRK, Victorinox SAKs, etc.)
- Function > fashion.
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Hopsbreath
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- Joined: Thu Jan 17, 2013 8:44 pm
- Location: Mt Dora, FL
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Tough to beat a Delica given your criteria. I think it ticks all your boxes. It’s a slicing machine and top 3 design for my taste. I’ve seen someone describe it as the “walk away knife” — if they had to pick one knife to leave the hobby of collecting and I agree. Gun to my head, I have to pick just one knife, it’s the Delica.
Edit: my reading comprehension sucks, I thought a recommendation for a knife fitting that criteria was asked for. That’s what a higher education got me, trying to answer questions I barely skimmed.
My criteria is fairly simple, I like variety. As long as a handle isn’t too cramped I’ll give it a shot. I don’t like the hook on the back of the PM2 and Para 3, it shortens the grip space and doesn’t feel good to me. The aforementioned Delica though tails off and lets my pinky hang out toward the back nice and comfy. Backlocks might be my favorites simply because all the best feeling knives in hand have them. Most of what Seki puts out works to my taste.
Edit: my reading comprehension sucks, I thought a recommendation for a knife fitting that criteria was asked for. That’s what a higher education got me, trying to answer questions I barely skimmed.
My criteria is fairly simple, I like variety. As long as a handle isn’t too cramped I’ll give it a shot. I don’t like the hook on the back of the PM2 and Para 3, it shortens the grip space and doesn’t feel good to me. The aforementioned Delica though tails off and lets my pinky hang out toward the back nice and comfy. Backlocks might be my favorites simply because all the best feeling knives in hand have them. Most of what Seki puts out works to my taste.
Last edited by Hopsbreath on Sun Oct 20, 2024 8:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
My criteria for choosing a knife is extremely complicated... I'll do my best to explain.
First and foremost, I ask myself "does it have this logo?"
If the answer is yes, I will consider it eligible to own.
If the answer is no, I will not consider it eligible to own.
Second - well, there is no second criteria.
TL;DR - I make sure it's a Spyderco, otherwise no thanks.
First and foremost, I ask myself "does it have this logo?"
If the answer is yes, I will consider it eligible to own.
If the answer is no, I will not consider it eligible to own.
Second - well, there is no second criteria.
TL;DR - I make sure it's a Spyderco, otherwise no thanks.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
I enjoyed this enormouslyMushroom wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 8:35 pmMy criteria for choosing a knife is extremely complicated... I'll do my best to explain.
First and foremost, I ask myself "does it have this logo?"
If the answer is yes, I will consider it eligible to own.
If the answer is no, I will not consider it eligible to own.
Second - well, there is no second criteria.
- Al
Work: Jumpmaster 2 H1 and Temp 1 SE CPM Cruwear Sprint.
Home: Chap LW SE.
Currently searching for:
Ayoob SE Cruwear
GB2 Cruwear
Work: Jumpmaster 2 H1 and Temp 1 SE CPM Cruwear Sprint.
Home: Chap LW SE.
Currently searching for:
Ayoob SE Cruwear
GB2 Cruwear
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
For me I tend to think what I’m going to be using it for (especially for work knives, which is the bulk of what I buy).
Once I’ve got a rough idea of what I want I try to find a design fit for purpose.
Once I’ve found a design I check to see if it comes in either a super corrosion resistant steel or CPM cruwear (which in my experience is practically stainless).
If it meets these criteria I buy it.
Once I’ve got a rough idea of what I want I try to find a design fit for purpose.
Once I’ve found a design I check to see if it comes in either a super corrosion resistant steel or CPM cruwear (which in my experience is practically stainless).
If it meets these criteria I buy it.
- Al
Work: Jumpmaster 2 H1 and Temp 1 SE CPM Cruwear Sprint.
Home: Chap LW SE.
Currently searching for:
Ayoob SE Cruwear
GB2 Cruwear
Work: Jumpmaster 2 H1 and Temp 1 SE CPM Cruwear Sprint.
Home: Chap LW SE.
Currently searching for:
Ayoob SE Cruwear
GB2 Cruwear
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Aladinsane
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- Posts: 581
- Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2024 10:20 am
- Location: Western NC, USA
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Oh! I forgot that I try to keep the price down to around $100USD, even if that means waiting for a good sale. I really feel that $120 is my maximum price I would feel comfortable carrying around in my pocket.
-Jeff-
A falling knife has no handle!
A falling knife has no handle!
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Aladinsane
- Member
- Posts: 581
- Joined: Thu Oct 03, 2024 10:20 am
- Location: Western NC, USA
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Excellent! Keep it simple!! I go exclusively with Spyderco for my folding knives, but for my fixed blade knives I love Scandinavian knives: Helle, Wood Jewel, etc…Mushroom wrote: ↑Sun Oct 20, 2024 8:35 pmMy criteria for choosing a knife is extremely complicated... I'll do my best to explain.
First and foremost, I ask myself "does it have this logo?"
If the answer is yes, I will consider it eligible to own.
If the answer is no, I will not consider it eligible to own.
Second - well, there is no second criteria.
TL;DR - I make sure it's a Spyderco, otherwise no thanks.
-Jeff-
A falling knife has no handle!
A falling knife has no handle!
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TimButterfield
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- Posts: 352
- Joined: Tue Sep 19, 2023 12:38 pm
- Location: Central NC
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
While the most represented brand in my collection of knives is Spyderco, I also have quite a few Buck, SAK, CRK, along with some other more traditional designs. Blade size just within my Spydercos range from the little Bug and the McBee up to the Native Chief. Knife steels are also all over the place including some of the Damascus variations. So far, the only duplicate model has been a Delica 4 where I bought a K390 Wharncliffe to accompany the Super Blue/Zome. When I started buying Spyderco, my goal was to learn about them as much as I could. Thus, overall, my primary criteria when selecting a knife seems to be whether it is unique enough within my collection of users to learn something new about how they work and feel. I'm still working on that and really appreciate all that I am able to learn from the wonderful posts here. Thanks all.
Criteria Summary: Is a knife interesting and unique enough for me to learn something new?
Lately, though, my purchasing has been a bit curtailed as my current location prohibits the carry of locking folders. I'm looking forward to the next move 'cause I still want to add a Bodacious.
Criteria Summary: Is a knife interesting and unique enough for me to learn something new?
Lately, though, my purchasing has been a bit curtailed as my current location prohibits the carry of locking folders. I'm looking forward to the next move 'cause I still want to add a Bodacious.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Mine's been pretty simple.....thumb hole, Cru-wear, or K390. 
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
aesthetics and materials.
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OV1kenobi
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- Posts: 71
- Joined: Thu Oct 17, 2024 9:20 am
- Location: Muscogee Nation (formerly Oklahoma)
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Purely aesthetics and how the knife feels in my hand at this point in life.
I am 66 years old and have been retired from the USPS for four years. My days of breaking down cardboard and cutting pallet straps are long gone. The greatest challenges my knives face now are breaking down the occasional Amazon box, opening a blister pack from said box and food prep.
Of the twelve Spyderco knives I currently own seven are in VG-10, one in S-30V, one in BD1N and three in K390.
Why K390 since I don’t demand much from my knives?
Simply put, I like the pretty blue scales and the beautiful colors of the developing patina on the blades. In fact, I go out of my way to cut meat and slice up tomatoes, peaches, and strawberries with my K390 knives just to admire the patina. A healthier diet and long edge retention are bonuses.
I am 66 years old and have been retired from the USPS for four years. My days of breaking down cardboard and cutting pallet straps are long gone. The greatest challenges my knives face now are breaking down the occasional Amazon box, opening a blister pack from said box and food prep.
Of the twelve Spyderco knives I currently own seven are in VG-10, one in S-30V, one in BD1N and three in K390.
Why K390 since I don’t demand much from my knives?
Simply put, I like the pretty blue scales and the beautiful colors of the developing patina on the blades. In fact, I go out of my way to cut meat and slice up tomatoes, peaches, and strawberries with my K390 knives just to admire the patina. A healthier diet and long edge retention are bonuses.
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Albertaboyscott
- Member
- Posts: 434
- Joined: Mon Sep 24, 2018 8:13 am
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
I'm a simple man. If it passes the eye test I'll give it a try
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
1) Overall impression -- the knife's combination of attributes.
2) Blade length. A small knife has to be awesome to interest me anymore. Chaparral, for example.
3) Corrosion resistance.
4) Lock type. Frame lock, liner lock, back lock, CBBL, slip joint, comp lock, in that order.
5) Handle material. Anything but black G10.
6) Steel.
If I have the chance to handle the knife before buying, then its feel in hand can trump everything else.
2) Blade length. A small knife has to be awesome to interest me anymore. Chaparral, for example.
3) Corrosion resistance.
4) Lock type. Frame lock, liner lock, back lock, CBBL, slip joint, comp lock, in that order.
5) Handle material. Anything but black G10.
6) Steel.
If I have the chance to handle the knife before buying, then its feel in hand can trump everything else.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
For folders I like flat ground thin and slicey.
Also like lightweight and I actually dig frn and the fact that it is cheaper is a bonus. The two sage 5s I purchased recently in FRN (121 and spy27) are awesome. I like trying new steels as well.
Pretty well past any “need” for new knives but fun to buy and add to the pile.
Also like lightweight and I actually dig frn and the fact that it is cheaper is a bonus. The two sage 5s I purchased recently in FRN (121 and spy27) are awesome. I like trying new steels as well.
Pretty well past any “need” for new knives but fun to buy and add to the pile.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Double Post
Last edited by JBoone on Tue Oct 22, 2024 10:49 am, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
I live in Los Angeles, so blade length is a necessary consideration. When at home I prefer in the 3.5 to 4" range, while away I want as close to 3" as possible. Most carried home/away are the PM2/Native 5 as primary blades, with the Shaman/Lil'Temp 3 LW as secondaries.
Blade geometry would be second consideration, although that is always a given with Spyderco.
Third consideration is ergonomics. Native 5 is perfection in my hand. PM2 and PARA3 are close seconds. Again, ergos are always great with Spyderco, no matter the size. The Shaman is a beast, but it feels great. I always have a DFly 2 K390 in my left pocket and it works just as well for what it needs to do for me. Even the Roadie with a lanyard has amazing ergos!
Steel is the final consideration. If I can get Cru-Wear, take my money. If not, M4 works and MagnaCut would be sweet, but the standard S30V or S45VN are fine. I like S90V in a couple of my knives, and Maxamet & K390 are insane and fun, but I don't really lust after edge retention above all else. I don't enjoy sharpening, so I prefer to have an easier time with my Sharpmaker when a touch up is needed.
And as Shroom points out, if it says Spyderco on the box the sale is already 90% done.
Blade geometry would be second consideration, although that is always a given with Spyderco.
Third consideration is ergonomics. Native 5 is perfection in my hand. PM2 and PARA3 are close seconds. Again, ergos are always great with Spyderco, no matter the size. The Shaman is a beast, but it feels great. I always have a DFly 2 K390 in my left pocket and it works just as well for what it needs to do for me. Even the Roadie with a lanyard has amazing ergos!
Steel is the final consideration. If I can get Cru-Wear, take my money. If not, M4 works and MagnaCut would be sweet, but the standard S30V or S45VN are fine. I like S90V in a couple of my knives, and Maxamet & K390 are insane and fun, but I don't really lust after edge retention above all else. I don't enjoy sharpening, so I prefer to have an easier time with my Sharpmaker when a touch up is needed.
And as Shroom points out, if it says Spyderco on the box the sale is already 90% done.
Brian
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grasshopper
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- Joined: Sat Sep 10, 2005 10:04 am
- Location: Tombstone,AZ
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Mine is pretty simple:
1-locking blade
2-opens/closes with one hand
3-pocket clip
Preferences
Length-3 to 3.5 inches
Handle material
A) Carbon Fiber
B) Titanium
C) Aluminum
D) Micarta
E) FRN
F) G10 (aka pocket destroyer)
1-locking blade
2-opens/closes with one hand
3-pocket clip
Preferences
Length-3 to 3.5 inches
Handle material
A) Carbon Fiber
B) Titanium
C) Aluminum
D) Micarta
E) FRN
F) G10 (aka pocket destroyer)
c113cf caly3, c134 g.bradley ,c90 cf stretch,
c55 starmate, c66 vesuvius(x2), c39 mini-dyad
c56 zowada, c11cf delica, Spyderco (Wegner) Mouse,
c49 wegner jr, c83 persian, ladybug (x2), C101 Manix2
c05 standard(x2), c65cf Lum Chinese, c48 wegner, jester(x2)
c55 starmate, c66 vesuvius(x2), c39 mini-dyad
c56 zowada, c11cf delica, Spyderco (Wegner) Mouse,
c49 wegner jr, c83 persian, ladybug (x2), C101 Manix2
c05 standard(x2), c65cf Lum Chinese, c48 wegner, jester(x2)
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Ideally the blade should be up to 3-3.5”, but I would make an exception for 4” rarely (if I like the knife enough).
No finger choil, but the choil itself is not a killer for me.
G10 or FRN with the full steel liners (again I have some linerless ones too).
Nothing harder to sharpen than S30V for the steel.
Most of my knives have jimping, but I prefer the ones without this feature lately.
Spyderco hole for opening.
That’s all basically.
No finger choil, but the choil itself is not a killer for me.
G10 or FRN with the full steel liners (again I have some linerless ones too).
Nothing harder to sharpen than S30V for the steel.
Most of my knives have jimping, but I prefer the ones without this feature lately.
Spyderco hole for opening.
That’s all basically.
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Fastidiotus
- Member
- Posts: 385
- Joined: Fri Nov 17, 2023 1:56 pm
Re: Criteria for choosing a knife
Do I want it? -> Yes -> Do I need it? -> No -> Do I still want it? -> Yes -> Is it less than $200? -> Maybe buy it. -> Is it $120 or less? -> Buy It -> Is it on sale and disco'd? -> Buy two. -> Look at all the red and black boxes and remember my hollow justification for having to have each one. -> Think I have a problem but at least it's not a drug problem. -> Think this is how the poor stay poor -> Another knife -> Do I want it?