AWT Scales for Manix 2 LW Issue

[MidnightCoalCo.]

Not sure if this has been covered but I recently purchased some applied weapons tech scales for my BladeHQ Teal Manix 2 LW and after assembly I noticed that the tip of the knife if dangerously close to sticking out with the new scales. Its close enough that if you lightly run your finger over the butt of the knife you can feel it catch on the tip. Has anyone else run into this issue before with these scales? I'm just trying to figure out if this is just how they made them and getting a replacement set isn't going to solve the problem or if I got a lemon set of scales. The new scales look and feel great but I'm not fond of the tip being that close out where it can easily catch on stuff.

[Coastal]

First, I'm not familiar with AWT's Manix scales so I can't comment on those in particular.

I have that same situation on a different knife (factory scales), and I can testify it can be troublesome if carried tip-up, which many scales force you to do. I've never carried that knife since deer season 1992 when I reached down to pull my knife and sliced an inch-long gash in my finger.

I love AWT's scales, but be careful!

[Zipper]

Out of curiosity, did you change the ball. It’s been discussed before that the size of the ball (steel or ceramic) will determine how far the blade sits in the scales.
I have a Manix 2 Salt in AWT scales and have no problems. I left the OEM ceramic ball in but added a lighter spring. Also the BBB 15v in AWT scales where I changed from a steel to a ceramic ball. Definitely changed the seating depth, but still no issue.

[MidnightCoalCo.]

Out of curiosity, did you change the ball. It’s been discussed before that the size of the ball (steel or ceramic) will determine how far the blade sits in the scales.
I have a Manix 2 Salt in AWT scales and have no problems. I left the OEM ceramic ball in but added a lighter spring. Also the BBB 15v in AWT scales where I changed from a steel to a ceramic ball. Definitely changed the seating depth, but still no issue.

No, I used the stock ball and cage along with all of the stock hardware. Only thing I did was change the scales, this is the first time this has happened to me with AWT scales, I have done other Spydercos with their scales and never had this issue before. Although this is my first Manix 2 LW I have done in their scales.

[Zipper]

I suppose there are so many possible variables in play. Manufacturing tolerances between 2 companies and so on. If you want to persevere with the AWT scales (I love mine), I would do a bit of research and find a smaller ball bearing and see if that fixes the issue.
I had an issue about 12 months ago with a set of AWT scales being dinged up in transit. They were a good company to deal with. Maybe drop them a line and see what they say. Can’t hurt (well not as much as slicing your fingers!)

[Ocho]

Contact AWT.
I've dealt with them a lot and their Customer Service is excellent. If there's a problem, He'll fix it.

Also, the Pivot determines where the blade sits in relation to the scale.
Good luck. Stay sharp

[Ocho]

Out of curiosity, did you change the ball. It’s been discussed before that the size of the ball (steel or ceramic) will determine how far the blade sits in the scales.
I have a Manix 2 Salt in AWT scales and have no problems. I left the OEM ceramic ball in but added a lighter spring. Also the BBB 15v in AWT scales where I changed from a steel to a ceramic ball. Definitely changed the seating depth, but still no issue.

No, I used the stock ball and cage along with all of the stock hardware. Only thing I did was change the scales, this is the first time this has happened to me with AWT scales, I have done other Spydercos with their scales and never had this issue before. Although this is my first Manix 2 LW I have done in their scales.

After some thought, I reconsider my last statement. Ball diameter could affect how high the blade sits nestled between the scales. I was thinking more if the point was sticking out the butt of the scales.. but after looking at my Mannix 2lightweight, I can see how a greater ball diameter might make it sit up a little higher.

[MidnightCoalCo.]

Just an update on this, I reached out to AWT and they did say that they have seen a small percentage have certain issues like this due to tolerances and blade sharpening. They stated there really wasn't much they could do other than offer a refund which I decided was the best thing to do. It sucks the scales didn't work out for me because they looked awesome but AWT was easy to work with and took care of me. I will probably either throw the original scales back on or maybe try some Original Goat scales to see if I have better luck with those....not sure yet.

[TkoK83Spy]

I was just reading through this and was going to suggest putting your own edge on it, which is typically better than factory based on your skill level. But would likely, also get rid of the exposed tip problem as well.

[Brock O Lee]

I've encountered this before on a G10 Manix with AWT scales. I fixed it by installing a slightly smaller ball.

I mentioned I was waiting for a slightly smaller ceramic ball bearing to install into my M4 Manix. I wanted to lower the blade tip in the handle, after I installed the AWT scales. This will give you an idea what effect a small bearing size difference has on the tip position of the blade when closed. The longer the blade, the more pronounced the effect.

Zirconia ceramic balls in 2 sizes, stock size left and slightly smaller right. T15 Torx bit for reference. I doubled-checked these diameters with digital vernier calipers before installing and they were spot-on.



Tip position with stock ball installed. Tip is barely hidden inside the scales. It is exposed enough to catch the flesh of my finger tip.


Smaller ball installed. Tip is nested much deeper inside the scales. No cut risk.


Both balls fit equally well into the ball cage.

[MidnightCoalCo.]

I've encountered this before on a G10 Manix with AWT scales. I fixed it by installing a slightly smaller ball.

I mentioned I was waiting for a slightly smaller ceramic ball bearing to install into my M4 Manix. I wanted to lower the blade tip in the handle, after I installed the AWT scales. This will give you an idea what effect a small bearing size difference has on the tip position of the blade when closed. The longer the blade, the more pronounced the effect.

Zirconia ceramic balls in 2 sizes, stock size left and slightly smaller right. T15 Torx bit for reference. I doubled-checked these diameters with digital vernier calipers before installing and they were spot-on.



Tip position with stock ball installed. Tip is barely hidden inside the scales. It is exposed enough to catch the flesh of my finger tip.


Smaller ball installed. Tip is nested much deeper inside the scales. No cut risk.


Both balls fit equally well into the ball cage.

Mine was having the exact same issue as pictured above. I need to look into getting a bunch of replacement smaller bearings in case I run into this situation again in the future. Anyone got any recommendations on a good place to pick some up?

[Brock O Lee]

I bought these Zirconia ceramic balls on Ebay.

[Ocho]

Both balls fit equally well into the ball cage.

[/quote]
THAT'S WHAT SHE SAID!
Sorry Bro.. couldn't let that one go..
I'll probably get banned

[Fastidiotus]

I've encountered this before on a G10 Manix with AWT scales. I fixed it by installing a slightly smaller ball.

I just installed a set of AWT scales on my g10 Manix 2 over the weekend and had to double check. My blade sits in the same spot as the after photo. I wonder if Spyderco's ball bearing supply has some slight variance since they're making sub $200 knives with them and not trying to land a rover on mars.

[Brock O Lee]

I'll probably get banned

Mate, I have so many replies...

[matthewkuhl]

My solution was actually grinding the cage to allow the bearing to engage more fully. Takes about 15 seconds on the belt sander and i do it to all my Manixes, LW or liner

[Ruudr]

My solution was actually grinding the cage to allow the bearing to engage more fully. Takes about 15 seconds on the belt sander and i do it to all my Manixes, LW or liner

Can you elaborate on this? Curious of what you mean exactly.

[matthewkuhl]

Can you elaborate on this? Curious of what you mean exactly.

Remove material from the spring/bearing guide along its top (where the ball groove is). It doesn't take very much to do the trick.

[aloglindo]

@matthewkuhl Just to be clear you mean on the cage itself, not on the backspacer?

I think I'm having this same problem - bought a LW Magnacut SALT, immediately put awt scales on it, and the knife tips is sticking out ever so slightly while closed, and in addition while open and locked, the cage position is rather low, just a little bit past half way in the slot, as if the ball doesn't fit far enough up in the track where the spring is pushing it. Which I think a ball that is too large relative to the ball track would cause as well, theoretically.

I was thinking of shaving down the backspacer (spine insert) that the cage rides along, but modifying the cage is less permanent I suppose, but I don't see how that would help since it's the ball that sits between the tang and the backspacer ball track.

I don't understand your description though - where is the ball groove? Where is the top? Maybe you meant the backspacer spine thing.

thanks!

[Michael Janich]

Dear aloglindo:

Welcome to the Spyderco Forum.

Stay safe,

Mike