Do you force a patina on your tool steel blades?

[Bolster]

On your high end tool steels (3V 4V 10V CruWear K390 HAP40 M4 etc...) do you force a patina?

[Pokey]

I haven't. I just use them and let it happen.

I have to say though I haven't seen much of a patina on my blades made of REX 45, Z-Wear, PD 1, or PMA11 when I've used them to cut fruits and vegetables that really affected one made of 52100 followed by ones made of K390.

[RustyIron]

My first was Maxamet, and I turned it sort of gray, so it matches the handle. One of my REX45's, I gave it a darker--maybe black/brown--that goes well with reddish handles. After those, I kind of got the "forced patina" out of my system.

[Bolster]

From what I've read, a forced patina helps reduce corrosion, sort of like blueing on a gun. I'm not so concerned with what it looks like, I'm more interested in keeping corrosion damage to a minimum. (Yes, I know: oil, wax, silicone, all good).

[Danke]

For sure I force the patina on tool steel. As a side note REX 45 has been very resistant to forming any significant patine for me, M4/ will patina but it' spotty. the nicest/most consistent has been HAP40 & V-Toku.

[wrdwrght]

Forcing never gave me the results I wanted, so now I let it happen naturally.

[mikey177]

I've only forced a patina on two fixed blades from other makers, one in 1095 and another in O1.

I decided to let a patina form naturally on my tool steel Spydies though. In my use, M4 seems to be the most reactive steel when it comes in contact with plant material.

[kobold]

I had to try it, blotted with mustard and it worked. But normally I just use them on acidic foodstuff.

[Evil D]

I have and haven't, just depends on what I feel like doing with that particular knife and if I wanna try to make it look a certain way. I may do something in the middle of yes and no, like deliberately slicing a bunch of foods that are known to cause patina instead of soaking the whole blade in something. I really like to keep the pivot and tang clean and new looking and let the business end of the blade patina naturally.

[bearfacedkiller]

Nope, I just let it happen naturally if it wants to.

[Ramonade]

I do not force it, and none of my tool steel knives really had developped patina yet.
I say had because my Maxamet Para 3 seems to have started to develop a patina :



I protect these kind of knives from rust in usage and everything with this kind of froglube :



I have nothing against patina, on the contrary, but I wonder how it happens ! Oxygen is my guess since no water stays on this knife, and froglube has protected it pretty well since I've gotten it.

[TkoK83Spy]

I did it once with Super Blue. I actually bought this knife just to try it out and loved how it came out. The knife and steel itself just didnt work for me though and sold it shortly after.



On any of the others, which I have a lot of as I've become a tool steel junkie...they just cut warehouse materials and landscaping stuff, no foods. I doubt they'll ever form a patina, but if they do that's also fine!

[Wandering_About]

Do not force patinas, myself. Have done it in the past but never seemed worth the effort, to me.

[juggler]

I don't, but the only tool steel knife I have is a K390 Police... and with K390 you really don't need to force anything

[Superflex]

I did on my first carbon steel folder, a 52100 Para 3. The first time carried while on a boat on the Ohio River, I noticed oxidation on the blade and decided to go ahead with a forced patina.
Soaked in hot apple cider vinegar for 20 minutes then applied some spicy brown mustard with a q-tip to the blade to give it some character. Since then, I have not seen a bit of oxidation on the blade.
I have not done to my other tool steels (M4, REX 45, HAP40, K390) and now I just let it happen naturally.

[FK]

NO
Prefer a bright steel without oxidation.
Use EDCi, Nano-Oil, Ren Wax or other protection.

Regards,
FK

[Snacktime]

My forced patina is kitchen duty, use it on red meat and cutting cheese. Really I just can't wait to try the knife out.

I did force a patina on my Tree-Rex, never really liked it. Cleaned it up and tried again and again. Just finished cleaning it up and now going to see what happens naturally.

I also have some tool steel that has managed to stay almost perfect, got no clue how?

[Capt'n Boatsalot]

I forced a patina on my first Superblue knife (Delica), but since then I just let it happen naturally. Typically, they form a light haze, and then it stops developing. Except for 52100. That one has continued to darken, which I love!

ETA some pics!

Group shot


Super Blue


Cruwear


52100 & K390

[Matus]

No I don’t, but it can look cool when done well (some acid stonewash)

[The Mastiff]

I do not force patinas. I see no need to and don't like how it looks. When I see people writing about how a forced patina looks good I wonder if they are looking at different pictures. I like my knives to look like steel not oxidation. I spend less time sealing the blade than people do trying to force patinas and mine stay unrusted and clean.

I will occasionally cold blue a knife but that isn't to protect it from rust . It's because I like a nicely blued knife.