PM2 extreme lock stick

[JBuzzard]

I picked up both models of the smkw artic storms. These are my only pm2's that I have ever dealt with. The satin version has some terrible lock stick to the point it makes a loud click when it finally releases. Any suggestions from the experts? Should I just send it in?

[Ramonade]

I had the same big audible click when unlocking my CQI PM2 (the S45vn one). I had to really push hard to unlock the comp.lock.
I just unscrewed the stop pin a bit on both sides, rotated it a bit and tried until the lock stick was reduced. It reduced it by like 90%, and the rest has gone away since then.

[JBuzzard]

Sometimes I have to use a thumb to unlock because it sticks so bad index finger will not unlock it. This may be a dumb question, but how did you rotate the stop pin once you unscrewed it?

[Sharp Guy]

Keep using it. It'll clear itself up. I've had a couple that were pretty sticky. I don't even remember which ones they were now because they're all fine now. Also, flicking the blade open only makes it worse

[Matus]

I experienced this kind of behavior on a 2nd hand, unused Cruwear smooth G10 Para 3. It did not improve over the few days I kept playing with it. I sold the knife later as I learned that I need a longer handle. I later got a K390 PM2 and that knife is as smooth as butter.

[Ramonade]

Sometimes I have to use a thumb to unlock because it sticks so bad index finger will not unlock it. This may be a dumb question, but how did you rotate the stop pin once you unscrewed it?

Oh right, it is almost press fit between the G10 scales. I had to unscrew the pivot on both sides a bit, just in order to "pry" the scales appart like 2millimeters. it allowed me to "disloge" the stop pin and rotate it like a quarter turn.
I used the "" because it's not actual prying, I just do not know how to express the fact that I moved the scales outwards a bit.

However, according to some people here, severe lockstick is more of a good reason to contact spyderco customer service for indications on what to do about it(or see with SMKW if they can swap them, but I guess there's none left already...).

[Wartstein]

Keep using it. It'll clear itself up. I've had a couple that were pretty sticky. I don't even remember which ones they were now because they're all fine now. Also, flicking the blade open only makes it worse

Why do you think is this the case? (Honest question, not because I actually like to flick open my knives for convenience and practical reasons - but the vast majority of mine are backlocks)

[cabfrank]

I think it's because the lockbar slides a little farther over.

[Ramonade]

Keep using it. It'll clear itself up. I've had a couple that were pretty sticky. I don't even remember which ones they were now because they're all fine now. Also, flicking the blade open only makes it worse

Why do you think is this the case? (Honest question, not because I actually like to flick open my knives for convenience and practical reasons - but the vast majority of mine are backlocks)

The lock interface isn't sitting properly when there's lockstick. So when you send the blade out with more force, it pushes the lockbar higher on the tang. I've tested it

[Wartstein]

Keep using it. It'll clear itself up. I've had a couple that were pretty sticky. I don't even remember which ones they were now because they're all fine now. Also, flicking the blade open only makes it worse

Why do you think is this the case? (Honest question, not because I actually like to flick open my knives for convenience and practical reasons - but the vast majority of mine are backlocks)

The lock interface isn't sitting properly when there's lockstick. So when you send the blade out with more force, it pushes the lockbar higher on the tang. I've tested it

Thanks, now I understand!

[JBuzzard]

This particular pm2 is almost unlockable when flicked open by middle finger or thumb. I was under the impression these knives were designed to be able to open in this manner. I have 3 para3s and another pm2 that have all worked flawlessly being flicked open. Just wanted to know ways others have fixed this problem or if it is best to send to Spyderco.

[Airlsee]

If it's as bad as you say, then send it in. There is a difference between having a little lock stick, and being unable to release the lock tab.

If it were me, I would disassemble and reassemble first, and if the problem persists, then send it to Spyderco. If you're uncomfortable with disassembly/reassembly then send it in and get them to switch out the lockbar/liner. Having a knife that is a problem to unlock is not typical and is not something Spyderco intended.

[araneae]

These knives were not designed for flicking. The "Spydie flick" is a pretty recent development probably made popular by social media. The hole was designed for thumb opening. If you have bad lock stick on a new knife, you should return it or send it to Spyderco. That shouldn't happen on a new knife and you shouldn't be expected to disassemble it to fix it. You may make it worse depending on your skill level.

[FK]

I agree,,, the "Spydie Flick" or "Power Snap" opening is borderline abuse of the knife.
Watch most YouTube posters as they ramble on and constantly Power Snap the blades open and flip it closed with force,,,, it is not a fidget toy.
I am amazed how well the Spyderco compression lock holds up to this activity.

Regards,
FK

[Sharp Guy]

Keep using it. It'll clear itself up. I've had a couple that were pretty sticky. I don't even remember which ones they were now because they're all fine now. Also, flicking the blade open only makes it worse

Why do you think is this the case? (Honest question, not because I actually like to flick open my knives for convenience and practical reasons - but the vast majority of mine are backlocks)

The lock interface isn't sitting properly when there's lockstick. So when you send the blade out with more force, it pushes the lockbar higher on the tang. I've tested it

Bingo!!!

And I stand by what I said about lock stick eventually going away. I think it was my grey Cruwear sprint run PM2 that had pretty bad lock stock when I first got it. It was my first sprint run knife and there was no way I was going to return and risk not being able to get another. I tried all the tricks but nothing seemed to help with the lock stick. So I finally just left it alone and started using it normally. About a week later I realized the lock stick was gone. I still have that knife and it's one of the smoothest PM2s I have. I've had other comp lock knives with minor lock stick. Those no longer have it too

[TkoK83Spy]

Don't even get me going again on this flicking crap

I've only got one compression lock knife with some lock stick, I've just learned to deal with it because I like the knife. A little more effort than usual, but not a deal breaker.

[Airlsee]

I'll admit my Lil' Native gets violently flicked open and is a fun fidget, but it has zero lock stick or vertical play.

[Ramonade]

My pm2 still has lockstick when being open normally. It's just not much at all anymore and it's not hard to live with.

[Wartstein]

Don't even get me going again on this flicking crap
...

Rick, you know and I've told you in several posts already that you're certainly one of the members I respect the most here in your knowledge about Spydercos, especially in REAL use and sharpening and how freely you share this here.

But this, with all due respect, I don't understand: You say you never flick your knives open cause you don't like that at all. Perfectly fine of course!
But how can you then have a real, educated opinion on the matter (honest question)? And be able to classify it as "crap"?

I am 100% honest and know what I am talking about when I tell you: For me both thumb rolling and flicking are perfectly safe and perfectly practical. But if you held a gun to my head and I would have to decide which one works even a tiny bit better and safer for me: It would have to be "flicking".

It is a tad faster, a tad more convenient and a tad safer: Because there is no repositioning involved:Knife is in hand in a certain, secure position, just the thumb makes a quick movenent, rest of the position (other fingers) remains 100% the same.

With a thumb roll though, depending on size and shape of the knife, opening radius and so on: In the second half of the opening motion it might be, that I slightly have to move and reposition the other fingers in order to fully open the knife.

Again, I am talking about tiny differences between the two methods, in real life they are just about equally safe.

But: "Flicking open" for me and others is not "crap", but a valid, practical and safe method to open a knife.

Now: If you're referring to those youtube "reviewers" who just talk for 15 minutes and constantly flick open the knife while doing: Yes, this can be really annoying indeed

[eventhorizon]

Wondrous tales about "abusive" flicking a knife open always make me smile.