Question on CPM 440V
Question on CPM 440V
My Wegner sharpens up razor sharp,my Endura and Lum the same,However I cannot get my Military to shave hair even after using the sharpmaker? Is CPM 440V harder to sharpen or is a problem of edge geometry (ie flat grind)
grant,
CPM440V is harder to sharpen than ATS34, ATS55 or VG10. Try using more strokes with the Sharpmaker on 440V. I'm not an exceptional sharpening expert but can get my 440V Military to shave hair. Light strokes, perfecting technique, more strokes seems to work on my Military.
John
"I'll have the Harpy, please, and a straight, serrated Spyderco with a four-inch blade...""Anything else?""Yes. I'd like a Spyderco Civilian..."
CPM440V is harder to sharpen than ATS34, ATS55 or VG10. Try using more strokes with the Sharpmaker on 440V. I'm not an exceptional sharpening expert but can get my 440V Military to shave hair. Light strokes, perfecting technique, more strokes seems to work on my Military.
John
"I'll have the Harpy, please, and a straight, serrated Spyderco with a four-inch blade...""Anything else?""Yes. I'd like a Spyderco Civilian..."
With knives like my Calypso Jr. Lwt. I can just resharpen using the flats of the white rods on the Sharpmaker. With the 440V Military I find that I need to go through all the steps (gray corner, gray flats, White corner, white flats) to get a good edge back. But it has at least as good an edge as I have been able to get with VG-10.
Rick
Rick
Hello,
I got a Military with an edge angle around 30°.
I resharp it only using the flat white ceramric sides.
Let say as I cannot dul:l it really it's only edge maintain...
It is razor sharp, I mean scary sharp. It's one of the rare knife which could cut my skin instead to cut the hair.
You can figure how it would cut with a few leather strokes...
cheers,
JM
I got a Military with an edge angle around 30°.
I resharp it only using the flat white ceramric sides.
Let say as I cannot dul:l it really it's only edge maintain...
It is razor sharp, I mean scary sharp. It's one of the rare knife which could cut my skin instead to cut the hair.
You can figure how it would cut with a few leather strokes...
cheers,
JM
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The General
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vampyrewolf
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a small tip, often overlooked...
if you want an egde you can shave with, go for a "bead"...
sharpen till you get a thin strip on the other side, known as a bead. Sharpen the other side now, to get rid of this bead. It takes about 20-30 strokes with most knives, per side, and possibly about 50-60 with 440.
it will provide the best edge, but not good for heavy work. The bead edge will chip if used too heavy. only shaving...
We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare...
if you want an egde you can shave with, go for a "bead"...
sharpen till you get a thin strip on the other side, known as a bead. Sharpen the other side now, to get rid of this bead. It takes about 20-30 strokes with most knives, per side, and possibly about 50-60 with 440.
it will provide the best edge, but not good for heavy work. The bead edge will chip if used too heavy. only shaving...
We all start with 10 fingers. Those with Spydies have 9 to spare, Still need a thumb. Good thing I still have 8 to spare...
I have had similar results on some of my knives with 440V, including a Military.
So I have had to modify my techniques: First of all, use the 30 degree slots when sharpening your Military. Mine came from the factory that way and I feel that it is necessary to keep that primary angle. , If yours isn't 30 degree, I personally would take the time to redo it your self. This is where a more abrasive rod set would come in handy. Reshaping a primary bevel with the gray rods takes forever! 440V is very tough so what apparantly happens is that the wire edge (someone here called it a bead) tends to roll back and forth. However, if you lighten your strokes, you can get that wire edge to disappear. And I have found the best way to make it disappear is by using very light strokes with the white rods in the 40 degree slots. You might be able to see what is going on if you first start this process by looking at your edge with a high powered magnifying glass or a lupe. Then use a black magic marker on both sides of the edge and then proceed sharpening. That way you can check your work and monitor if you are holding your knife perpendicular to the 204. Hope that helps!
Barry H
So I have had to modify my techniques: First of all, use the 30 degree slots when sharpening your Military. Mine came from the factory that way and I feel that it is necessary to keep that primary angle. , If yours isn't 30 degree, I personally would take the time to redo it your self. This is where a more abrasive rod set would come in handy. Reshaping a primary bevel with the gray rods takes forever! 440V is very tough so what apparantly happens is that the wire edge (someone here called it a bead) tends to roll back and forth. However, if you lighten your strokes, you can get that wire edge to disappear. And I have found the best way to make it disappear is by using very light strokes with the white rods in the 40 degree slots. You might be able to see what is going on if you first start this process by looking at your edge with a high powered magnifying glass or a lupe. Then use a black magic marker on both sides of the edge and then proceed sharpening. That way you can check your work and monitor if you are holding your knife perpendicular to the 204. Hope that helps!
Barry H