Which Spyderco BladeSteel Property (ies) Do You Value Most?

[SpyderEdgeForever]

When it comes to specific properties of the blade steels used on Spyderco knives, which property or properties is most important to you, and, does it vary in different cutting uses and situations?

Examples: Do you value and favor wear resistance over toughness, or corrosion resistance over either of those, or lighter weight over hardness? That sort of thing.

Generally when it comes to my own preferences, I tend to put the biggest emphasis on: 1 corrosion/rust resistance and 2 toughness of the particular steel.

However, hardness and edge holding are obviously extremely important, as well.

How about you?

And I can see how in some situations the preference of properties would vary: For fishing and watersports you would most likely place rust resistance on the highest deciding factor, whereas if you are using the knife to cut up cord and cardboard, you would value edge holding ability over rust resistance.

[bearfacedkiller]

I would say that it is application specific but for my main uses which are EDC and field/woods uses that the quality I most desire is balance. I know that is cheating and that I am basically picking all attributes but I really do try to find steels that balance all the qualities. I have always really liked steels like D2 and now more recently Cruwear as they strike an amazing balance for me.

[The Deacon]

Corrosion resistance.

[elena86]

I would say that it is application specific but for my main uses which are EDC and field/woods uses that the quality I most desire is balance. I know that is cheating and that I am basically picking all attributes but I really do try to find steels that balance all the qualities. I have always really liked steels like D2 and now more recently Cruwear as they strike an amazing balance for me.

That

[bdblue]

For my EDC folders I pick edge holding first, toughness second. For working knives (weekend) I lean towards toughness. For fixed blade users I lean towards toughness. I don't worry much about resistance to corrosion and none at all for ease of sharpening.

[tripscheck'em]

So far I like having good wear resistance, but not so much that sharpening at high grits becomes a real pain, plus I really don't need a tremendous amount. ZDP-189 is my favorite in this regard. Maybe I just suck at sharpening, but I've found S30V frustrating to sharpen on the fine/extra-fine ceramics, which I suspect is the vanadium grinding directly against the abrasive. High carbon/chromium is the sweet spot for me at this point in the knife hobby.

I tried Super Blue, and it was just too soft and high-maintenance. I suspect much of the diminished edge retention was because of corrosion at the apex.

[awa54]

for an EDC knife, I want a balance of features like bearfacedkiller said, my priorities are;

#1 the ability to take a good high polish edge without too much effort sharpening

#2 holds that edge (or a good portion of it) for a whole work day of light to moderate use on soft materials

#3 corrosion resistance with reasonable care

#4 toughness isn't very important in my EDC use

So for me *good* AUS8, VG-10, S30V/S35VN, *good* 440, Schrade+, M4, D2, HAP40 are all very acceptable steels. For other uses the need for a polished edge might be less and the ability to keep a working edge and have more toughness would be ideal, in some cases I would avoid non-stainless steel all together, like on a hike with rain expected. That's why (at least I tell myself this) I need so many different knives :D

[Surfingringo]

I have to separate my use into two distinct categories.
-Saltwater fishing use. (which is well over half of my folder use)
-EDC (basically everything other than my kayak use)

For Saltwater usage, corrosion resistance tops everything. Even the highest wear resistant steels can turn butter knife dull over the course of a single day due to corrosion so corrosion resistance actually equals better edge retention in that environment.

My EDC requirements are quite different. Corrosion resistance is pretty far down the list in my normal use knives. I'd rather have it than not but I am more concerned with other factors. Mainly ease of sharpening and ability to take a very "sticky sharp" coarse edge. I also value edge retention but its a little further down the list. The way I look at edge retention is I like a steel to be above a certain threshold but once that threshold is met I don't get a lot more out of the extreme wear resistance steels. I tend to sharpen early and often so as long as a steel has a reasonable level of hardness and wear resistance (lets say vg10 or better) I often don't notice the differences that tend to show themselves more at lower level sharpness. Some steels I like are cpm154, m4, hap40 and s30v. I have a feeling I will like cruwear too and I finally have some inbound. We shall see.

[Surfingringo]

So for me *good* AUS8, VG-10, S30V/S35VN, *good* 440, Schrade+, M4, D2, HAP40 are all very acceptable steels. For other uses the need for a polished edge might be less and the ability to keep a working edge and have more toughness would be ideal, in some cases I would avoid non-stainless steel all together, like on a hike with rain expected. That's why (at least I tell myself this) I need so many different knives :D

Wisdom quoted for posterity.

[tvenuto]

Assuming the knife meets an acceptable level of wear resistance...

#1: Ease of sharpening
#2: Corrosion resistance
#3: Withstand chipping damage (edge stability, toughness? It's not completely clear how bulk toughness contributes to edge stability)
#4: Abrasive wear resistance

I'm of the opinion that AEB-L would optimize these properties, but I don't have a knife in this steel. VG-10 has served me well, once it's been sharpened a few times. I've noticed that it's been prone to chips with a factory edge. H1 is good but in PE I have noticed it dulling quite quickly, which is why I have the first caveat. S30V has proved adequate as well, and I have not noticed any issues with S90V or S110V regarding corrosion, but sharpening has been more difficult. Or more accurately, reprofiling, which is what you need to do if the factory edge bevel doesn't match the edge you plan to put on the knife.

Although generally I have to say I've been impressed with Superblue and Hap40 with regard to resisting red rust. I've carried both IWB in humid weather without any issues, although of course they both patina'd and stained with use. I do worry slightly what's happening in the pivot region, and being FRN backlocks I'm loathe to take them apart (not easy to put back together).

[clovisc]

1. Corrosion resistance
2. Ease of sharpening
3. Toughness
4. Edge holding

[vivi]

My values are very different than most. I'm a very active person who lives in a warmclimate, so corrosion resistance is my #1. I like how really thin, high polish edges cut, so steels that work well with that edge type catch my attention. I'm fine sharpening my knife every other day, so edge retention doesn't matter much to me. However, ergonomics, lock type and handle material have a big influence over my purchases, so I'm not always carrying the perfect steel for the job.

1. Corrosion Resistance
2. How sharp can I get it?
3. Ability to hold an acute edge angle without failing in any way (5-10DPS, microbevels optional)
4. Can it be flat ground?
5. Toughness
6. Edge Holding

I'm a big fan of H1 as you'd expect, but I prefer full flat grinds which is unfortunate. I know Spyderco has been trying out another nitrogen based blade material, LCN200 or something? Can someone correct me? Either way I'm hoping its also 100% rust proof and tough like H1, but able to take a full flat grind from factory.

[Holland]

1. Ease of sharpening
2. Edge holding
3. Toughness (no chipping)
.
.
.
9. Corrosion resistance (could care less)

[Ryno]

This hasn't been touched on in this thread, but hardness is important with my knives because you can take the angle really low. So I suppose a steel that can be treated really hard, but is tough enough to not chip. The mt21 in 4v is my favorite so far.

[Bloke]

I tend to overthink most things but not knives.

When I go out with a Pro Roo Shooter mate, I wouldn’t entertain the thought of a high end fixed or folding knife to field dress 250 roos and disjoint 500 hoppers (lower part of leg), in the black of night! Mick buys boxes of 10, I think, Dexter Russell 5” swept back flexible boning knives and we use them and a steel till it won’t stand the edge up any more then we grab a new knife. :eek:

The same goes if we’re “Cubing” block after block of sardines at the transom of a game boat. I’ll use a heavy old butcher’s knife and if it goes overboard, it goes overboard! If it doesn’t go overboard but it rust that don’t matter either because a file will have it screaming sharp in a couple of strokes.

My favourite knife with all the properties I desire, is the knife in my hand that is cutting what I want cut. :)

[ejames13]

My EDC requirements are quite different. Corrosion resistance is pretty far down the list in my normal use knives. I'd rather have it than not but I am more concerned with other factors.Mainly ease of sharpening and ability to take a very "sticky sharp" coarse edge. I also value edge retention but its a little further down the list. The way I look at edge retention is I like a steel to be above a certain threshold but once that threshold is met I don't get a lot more out of the extreme wear resistance steels. I tend to sharpen early and often so as long as a steel has a reasonable level of hardness and wear resistance (lets say vg10 or better) I often don't notice the differences that tend to show themselves more at lower level sharpness. Some steels I like are cpm154, m4, hap40 and s30v. I have a feeling I will like cruwear too and I finally have some inbound. We shall see.

This is almost exactly how I feel as well, particularly the highlighted part. Anything between the edge holding range of VG-10 and M390 is acceptable for me. I'm not really interested in S110V and the like. HAP40 is probably my favorite steel of all. The edge just gets so sticky so easily!

I'm interested to hear your thoughts on Cruwear once you get it. I really enjoy it (reminds me a lot of HAP40). What model do you have inbound?

[bearfacedkiller]

It is a Cruwear Military and it is finally on route.

Sorry for the delay. If isn't one thing it is another. I had a tire blowout on the way to the post office. Brand new tires too. Trying to get it warrenteed but with a cut to the sidewall I am not sure what they will say.

[wrdwrght]

I don't want any of the three extremes. I'll opt for a compromise of toughness and wear-resistance, with a lean toward the latter.

[Sharp Guy]

1. Corrosion resistance
2. Ease of sharpening
3. Edge retention
4. Toughness

VG10 & S30V/S35VN have been great for my needs at this point. I think that's primarily because I have the most knives with those steels so I have the most experience with them. I like that I don't have to worry much about corrosion, I can get them very sharp with minimal effort, and they hold an edge well enough for my needs. If I was using my knife for work everyday my priorities might be a little different. Back when I was using a knife at work everyday edge retention was a little higher on the list.

I have a bunch of other steels but don't have enough experience with them to form an opinion. S90V/S110V should be great but I haven't had to sharpen them yet. CTS-XHP seems to meet my needs very well but, again, I have limited experience sharpening it. I'm guessing that sharpening won't be a problem. HAP40 has been great so far and the one knife I had to sharpen (Dragonfly), it was fairly easy to get sticky sharp. My little ZDP Manbug sees a lot of use and it was no big deal the couple times I've sharpened it. No problems with corrosion either. M4 seems great but not enough experience with it yet. I make sure the steel is protected so no corrosion problems at this point. It does seem to hold an edge for a looong time.

[Evil D]

I need enough edge retention to get me through my worst day, enough toughness to keep it from chipping out when used hard, and I like it when they're easier to sharpen but I can sharpen anything for the most part. Depending on use those factors definitely change, if I'm going out to play in the ocean I'll probably opt for H1, when I would probably choose another steel over H1 if I didn't have to worry about corrosion so much. Realistically though I have yet to tey a steel that Spyderco offers that is so poor at any of these qualities that I won't use it.