Prediction and hope

[Doc Dan]

It is my prediction (and hope) that when those of you who obtain, and actually use, the new sprint run knives in Super Blue Steel, that you will finally understand why I love carbon steel (particularly 50100B/0170-6B) blades so much.

[jmh58]

1095, 01, CASE CV, Super Blue are my most favorite steels.. SHARP and easy to keep that way!! John

[SpyderEdgeForever]

I am sure you have a great point on this, but, with all due respect, sir, isn't the joy of steels such as VG-10 Stainless that you get the best of the carbon and the best of the stainless?
Also, do you have or use any H-1 Steel blades and if yes, what do you think of them?

[Strong-Dog]

Maybe its just me, but the only stainless steels that can compare to relatively simple carbon steels such as O1 or Superblue are really high end, VG10 just doesnt get me excited. Now CPM-M4, does everything so well (besides corrosion resistance) that I'd be happy with every knife I own to be made with it.

[Cujobob]

I've not had any issue keeping VG-10, 14C28N, AEB-L or CTS XHP ridiculously sharp. I guess I don't really see the advantages to carbon steels over stainless these days. I haven't seen the prices of VG-10, but I'd bet it's the most expensive of those I've listed....the others are available at affordable prices.

[Blerv]

I am sure you have a great point on this, but, with all due respect, sir, isn't the joy of steels such as VG-10 Stainless that you get the best of the carbon and the best of the stainless?
Also, do you have or use any H-1 Steel blades and if yes, what do you think of them?

I've only done limited sharpening of Super Blue but it's quite different than VG10. My skills are lacking but I can get SB freaky sharp after drinking a few too many whiskeys :p .

[bearfacedkiller]

I carry a Super Blue delica a lot. Almost every day. I use it as a parer and mostly cut up apples and such. WONDERFUL!!! I reprofiled it by hand to get it less than 30 degrees (25ish). Now I just touch it up on the sharpmaker at 30 degrees. It isn't perfectly even (a little steeper on one side than the other) but man does it get sharp and on soft matter like produce it stays that way for a while. It doesn't lose its shaving sharpness in between touch ups.

I have learned that you can read about how great a steel is all day long but in the end the steel that takes the edge you want easily and holds it adequately is the best.

I'm sure this is not the greatest steel for everyone but for me (in my limited experience) Super Blue is extremely easy to keep at the level of sharpness I desire.

I will be buying both a dragonfly and a stretch.

[ugaarguy]

I've found the European razor blade steels, i.e. 13C26 / AEB-L and 14C28N, to behave most like simple carbon steels such as 1095 in sharpening. So much depends on end use and how the heat treat is done for that end use though.

[kbuzbee]

I've only done limited sharpening of Super Blue but it's quite different than VG10. My skills are lacking but I can get SB freaky sharp after drinking a few too many whiskeys :p .

I never realized that

drinking a few too many whiskeys :p .

would enhance my sharpening skills, Blake. I appreciate the tip, brother! I'll take it under advisement.

But, kidding aside, I also seem to get sharper edges on my carbon steels, in general (and Super Blue in particular). This is unscientific observation on my part and may just as easily reflect something in my sharpening skills/technique as opposed to a quality of the steel. I'll freely admit that, though I can't attribute the difference to my skills being whiskey enhanced. All my knives are sharpened solely under the influence of coffee

Ken

[ugaarguy]

Actually, if I understand it correctly the carbon steels should sharpen more quickly, which most of us will equate with sharpening more easily. This is because the chromium content required in to make the steel stainless also makes the steal very wear resistant. So, because of the significant increase in wear resistance, it's going to take more passes on the same sharpener to abrade as much stainless steel as carbon steel.

[kbuzbee]

isn't the joy of steels such as VG-10 Stainless that you get the best of the carbon and the best of the stainless?

While modern stainless steels are worlds beyond those early attempts (by quality manufacturers) and way, way, WAY beyond the initial spate of "junk" stainless found then (and even now) the properties of two given steels, stainless or not can be radically different (or, admittedly, quite similar) in any given pairing.

VG10 is a terrific all round "stainless" blade steel. It holds a good edge reasonably well for a respectable duty cycle and is relatively corrosion resistant. Not as wear resistant as S110V. Not as corrosion resistant as H1. But a good steel that will serve most EDC applications very well.

When comparing it to a steel like Super Blue. I find Super Blue takes a finer edge. Holds it longer. And corrodes much more readily.

So, no, to me, VG10 is not 'everything Super Blue is and it's stainless' It's a trade off of properties you value over ones you value less. Only you can decide how you value these properties (or whether you can even perceive them). If you don't find you can get Super Blue sharper than VG10 and/or that it holds that edge longer, you would have no reason to ever choose Super Blue over VG10. If you work in an area where corrosion is a major concern, you may well prefer VG10 (or better, H1)

Ken

[Mallus]

I too like Superblue, even if acidic apples corrode the very apex rather fast, unless immediately rinsed. Regarding carbon steels in general, I like patina and that it is a self-healing surface. I just re-profiled my Caly 3 SB sprint to an acuter angle by freehanding on DMT diamonds. The DMT aligner kit I held in my hand (as it does not allow acute edge angles if you clamp it to the blade, and that would be slower anyway than freehanding) has almost all the plastic backed dotted diamonds bent, and the red one so much so it bit to the blade face. While annoying, most of the scratches will likely be hidden once I've eaten a few apples more.

While we are hoping, I hope we will eventually get more thinly ground high edge stability steels in stainless format. I'd think AEB-L type of steels well heat treated would offer most what makes Superblue so nice, with the exception of being way more corrosion resistant. The new Frontier by Ed Schempp would be a splendid candidate as it's got a thin blade to begin with. Also the Chaparrals would work well with such a steel.

[xceptnl]

VG10 is a terrific all round "stainless" blade steel. It holds a good edge reasonably well for a respectable duty cycle and is relatively corrosion resistant. Not as wear resistant as S110V. Not as corrosion resistant as H1. But a good steel that will serve most EDC applications very well.

When comparing it to a steel like Super Blue. I find Super Blue takes a finer edge. Holds it longer. And corrodes much more readily.

So, no, to me, VG10 is not 'everything Super Blue is and it's stainless' It's a trade off of properties you value over ones you value less. Only you can decide how you value these properties (or whether you can even perceive them). If you don't find you can get Super Blue sharper than VG10 and/or that it holds that edge longer, you would have no reason to ever choose Super Blue over VG10. If you work in an area where corrosion is a major concern, you may well prefer VG10 (or better, H1)

Ken

Well said Ken. I don't have the vocabulary to offer anything more informative than what you have said. I love my VG-10 and my Superblue. Each have their strengths. As Blerv stated I can get my free-hand edges on Superblue easier, even whie enjoying a cocktail . As of late I have been using jackknifeh's technique of using the higher (finer) grit stones to sharpen my Superblue (and others) because I am forced to use more repetitions (giving me practice) wit less wasted removal of steel.

[kbuzbee]

Actually, if I understand it correctly the carbon steels should sharpen more quickly, which most of us will equate with sharpening more easily. This is because the chromium content required in to make the steel stainless also makes the steal very wear resistant. So, because of the significant increase in wear resistance, it's going to take more passes on the same sharpener to abrade as much stainless steel as carbon steel.

Yeah, kinda, sorta, not completely.... Yes, chromium is the main component contributing to "stainless" and, yes, if your only difference between two steels is chromium content, what you say is generically correct (factoring out hardness and processing differences) But remember, these days we have more than just these 2 classifications of steel. We have low->high allow stainless. And low-> high alloy non stainless and a wide spectrum of possibilities in between these four data points. Additionally, what those alloys are (W, Ni, Mo etc) and how they are treated matters. So you can have a non stainless steel with incredible wear resistance and a very stainless steel that wears relatively easily, if that makes sense?

Ken

[kbuzbee]

Thanks Landon,

As of late I have been using jackknifeh's technique of using the higher (finer) grit stones to sharpen my Superblue (and others) because I am forced to use more repetitions (giving me practice) wit less wasted removal of steel.

That can be a very "Zen" experience

Ken

[Pinetreebbs]

My Super Blue Endura has cut many yards of cardboard since it landed in my pocket. Just a touch up on the fine stones followed by a strop is all it takes to keep it sharp. We buy just about everything except groceries on the Internet and shop at Costco so I get plenty of cardboard to cut up for the recycle bags our city uses. In addition to the usual stuff, we recently purchased a tread mill that was shipped in a huge cardboard box, it was a pleasure using the Endura to cut it all up so easily.

[kbuzbee]

While we are hoping, I hope we will eventually get more thinly ground high edge stability steels in stainless format. I'd think AEB-L type of steels well heat treated would offer most what makes Superblue so nice, with the exception of being way more corrosion resistant. The new Frontier by Ed Schempp would be a splendid candidate as it's got a thin blade to begin with. Also the Chaparrals would work well with such a steel.

I agree. I'd love to see a new focus on knife blades (or, is it a return to an old focus ) of sharpness. Designing, treating and manufacturing blades for sharpness.

We've seen a lot of focus on wear resistance in the last couple decades, culminating in steels like S110V etc. Knives that, given a sufficiently thick edge, can hold it under normal use, virtually forever.

And we've seen a lot of focus on corrosion resistance, culminating in "steels" like H1 which will never rust.

There has been some focus on toughness for chopping/impact intensive applications.

But I really think 90% of EDC use benefits most from a blade that is very, VERY sharp. This means very thin behind the edge. Steels and geometries that support this would get my attention over any of these other categories. I'd love to see more zero edge designs. The comment was made in another thread to out Opinel Opinel. I love that idea, be it carbon, stainless or whatever.

Ken

[Blerv]

Cocktails are the key :D . Menial tasks are exciting when you are inebriated :p jk

[Holland]

Superblue and M4 are by far my favourite steels, super easy to get a nice sharp edge, and i have had zero issues with chipping :)

[thombrogan]

I am sure you have a great point on this, but, with all due respect, sir, isn't the joy of steels such as VG-10 Stainless that you get the best of the carbon and the best of the stainless?

It's a very nice steel and the world is a better place for its existence. It doesn't get a particular VanHagar song stuck in my head, though, like AEB-L hardened to RC63 (queue cheesy hard rock anthem now!).

Also, do you have or use any H-1 Steel blades and if yes, what do you think of them?

I've got a Spyderhawk in H1, and Atlantic Salt SE in H1, and a Tasman Salt SE in H1 (bought three like I promised to do and sold off two so others could enjoy the majesty of a serrated hawkbill in an exotic alloy). It's soft, has the wear-resistance of a moth, and I like it tons. Most soft steels are a total pain to sharpen (underhardened AUS-6, AUS-8, and 420HC come to mind), but not H1. Also, H1 is a very idiot-resistant steel (my Atlantic Salt SE; especially now with a titanium Low-Rider clip courtesy of STR) is all that is man (you can see the thick 1970's mustache and IROC-Z if you hold it in the light just right).

Cocktails are the key :D . Menial tasks are exciting when you are inebriated :p jk

You aren't a physician in my HMO's health plan are you?