Southard Frustration

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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TheSavageRabbit
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Southard Frustration

#1

Post by TheSavageRabbit »

I've had my Southard Flipper for probably 6 months or more. The size, blade shape, materials, etc make this close to the perfect knife. But I have one, major frustration with this knife. It doesn't cut well.

The edge is sharpened at 30 degrees on my Sharpmaker. I sharpen it as I sharpen all of my other Spydercos. It'll shave hair. However, this blade snags and tears rather than slices. I can't figure it out. When it comes to the joyful instances in my day that call for me to deploy my pocket knife and cut, this knife simply fails to perform.

[Edited to add] There is no damage to the edge.
Any ideas?
I strive to be the man my dog thinks I am.
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78lilred
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#2

Post by 78lilred »

You've got flatspots on the apex in areas more than likely, or burr remaining at spots.
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
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gbelleh
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#3

Post by gbelleh »

I have the exact same issue. It snags and tears. I'm still pretty horrible at sharpening, and have not been able to improve it yet. So my Southard doesn't see much use, especially since the Domino is such an awesome slicer.
:bug-red-white
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78lilred
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#4

Post by 78lilred »

I had a rough learning curve on the southard when doing full strokes against the stone and elevating the handle just right to keep a consistent angle to the tip.
M390 Para2, CTS-XHP Para2, CTS-204P Para2, Gayle Bradley, Techno, Bob T Slipit, M390 Mule, Southard, Southfork, Air, Tuff, ZDP Caly 3.5.
rycen
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#5

Post by rycen »

Have you tried coloring the edge with a sharpie to see where the stones are hitting?
We would rather be the knife in your pocket, because is "works" better, than the knife in your showcase, because it "looks" better.

sal
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Evil D
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#6

Post by Evil D »

Something bugs me about the shape of the spine on this knife. I know that's Brad's style, but if it had a curved leaf shape style spine, I think it would look so much sexier.
~David
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Donut
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#7

Post by Donut »

It's probably the hollow grind. If it gets too wide too fast, the thickness of the blade will just pull things apart before the edge gets to them.

From what I read from people who have Southard customs, they say he knows what makes a knife cut well. *shrug*
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senorsquare
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#8

Post by senorsquare »

Evil D wrote:Something bugs me about the shape of the spine on this knife. I know that's Brad's style, but if it had a curved leaf shape style spine, I think it would look so much sexier.
Funny, the double scalloped spine is one of the things I love about this knife.
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jabba359
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#9

Post by jabba359 »

It doesn't cut well? :confused:

Are you holding the correct end? :p

(but seriously, I do find the blade a bit thick)
-Kyle

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phaust
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#10

Post by phaust »

edit:misread sorry :(
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razorsharp
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#11

Post by razorsharp »

Try destressing the edge.

Once you sharpen it sharp, cut into the final stone as if cutting a tomato gently and re-apex it on the same grit ( it really wont take long, like, less than a minute to get it apexed again) The steel MAY be weakened and might be dulling fast in spots making it snag.

I do notice that M390 and 204p do form a bit of a stubborn wire edge
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Coulro
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#12

Post by Coulro »

I'd imagine it's the grind, Spyderco has spoiled us with so many ffg blades and now anything else doesn't seem to cut as well.
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Blerv
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#13

Post by Blerv »

What do you mean by "snag"? Is it binding at the primary bevel or higher up due to the thickness? Did it ever cut well?

If people can sharpen the Techno, the Southard has promise.
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#14

Post by Cliff Stamp »

Can you make a very long and smooth and continuous cut in newsprint, say at least 3-4 times the length of the blade?
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hunterseeker5
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#15

Post by hunterseeker5 »

Oh problems, I love problems. :D

So shaving hair and slicing paper (the latter I've never developed the technique to do for whatever reason) are two very different sharpness tests. Presumably though you know, form your other knives, that you do have the necessary technique to make a good slice in paper.

So here is the thing. Shaving hair tests something more like average apex sharpness. That is to say you're laying a relatively wide part of the edge down on your skin, and the hairs roll and slide under it (they're not stuck in the same exact spot of the blade) and if most of the hairs are cut you'll say "it shaves" even if only, say, 95% of the blade is actually sharp enough to cut the hairs with that given force applied to your skin.

Paper cutting however is the reverse, its point sharpness testing. If you have, even a microscopic, spot on the edge that isn't sufficiently sharp, fibers will catch there and build and result in a snag or tear. Unless you're pulling a slice, every part of your apex must meet the minimum sharpness requirement otherwise it won't work. You'll therefore cut and simply encounter a string of hangups along the edge.


Does what I've described so far seem to match your symptoms?
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