The use of thinner blades

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toomzz
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The use of thinner blades

#1

Post by toomzz »

Hello there,

most recently I purchased a bird and trout knife of another brand. The small FB measures about 9 cm and is 1,7 mm think. Its bendable S35VN blade is perfect for all kind of every day small (food)tasks.
I really love the thickness (or thiness :rolleyes: ) of this knife. I know there is already the Chapparal but isn't it an idea to introduce another thin foldable slicer in about 2 mm thickness? Any thoughts or ideas?

cheers,
Tomas
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Clip
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#2

Post by Clip »

IIRC, the Cento3/4 are 2mm stock and wicked slicers with their hollow grinds.
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#3

Post by xceptnl »

I agree thinner blades are more practical for most small EDC chores (especially those that include food). If you are in the market Tomas, I would look at the Centofante Memory for a thin FFG blade around the size of your small FB or you could try the Centofante 3 for a thin behind the edge hollow grind. I love my Cento 4 and the only other knife I really feel I'm missing from that thinner stock is the Catcherman.
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#4

Post by The Deacon »

I agree there are definite advantages to a thin blade for those who know the difference between a tool intended for cutting tool and those intended for chopping or prying, and not just for food prep either. They don't even need to be small. I've been lobbying for a 2mm bladed version of the Stretch for years.
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#5

Post by tap78 »

low thickness behind the cutting edge and tall leaf-shape blade profile... that what cuts best even if there's 3mm in the spine...
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Blerv
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#6

Post by Blerv »

They should just grind the Superblue Stretch thinner. Seems that would be a terrific combo.
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#7

Post by xceptnl »

Blerv wrote:They should just grind the Superblue Stretch thinner. Seems that would be a terrific combo.
I would agree with this in practice. I wonder how a thinner grind will effect way these new Superblue blades are formed since the core does not extend to the spine. In theory if it was ground too thin the core would not have sufficient slab material to hold it in place?
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#8

Post by Blerv »

xceptnl wrote:I would agree with this in practice. I wonder how a thinner grind will effect way these new Superblue blades are formed since the core does not extend to the spine. In theory if it was ground too thin the core would not have sufficient slab material to hold it in place?
Oh good point :) .

I think it would be fine. However the lamination line would be much higher. Probably a question of aesthetics and corrosion resistance more than anything. I'm sure one would be easy to regrind with 420j2 cladding. Probably could even do it with sandpaper.
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#9

Post by PSquared »

tap78 wrote:low thickness behind the cutting edge and tall leaf-shape blade profile... that what cuts best even if there's 3mm in the spine...
ie a Large Lum Chinese ... those didn't do well and got disco'ed - good thing I got a spare one.

Not sure it slices better than my 2mm Cento 3 but it kicks all my other 3mm blades out of the kitchen.

Unfortunately my Catcherman is the USN sprint. I find that the blade coating "drags" a bit on food, particularly raw meat
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#10

Post by The Deacon »

xceptnl wrote:I would agree with this in practice. I wonder how a thinner grind will effect way these new Superblue blades are formed since the core does not extend to the spine. In theory if it was ground too thin the core would not have sufficient slab material to hold it in place?
Are you, by chance, confusing Super Blue with ZDP-189 as used in Moki knives like the Caly 3? While I'm no fan of non-stainless steels like Super Blue, I wasn't aware any of the Spydercos that use it have laminated blades.
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#11

Post by RanCoWeAla »

They are also very quick and easy to sharpen. I have a Browning model 501 Small Game and Bird knife that has thin blades and it's joy to use and sharpen. It's the only knife I have been able to effectively sharpen with one of the little Smith's pocket sharpeners. I can pull the blades through the ceramic rods seven or eight times and its shavivg sharp. It's like the Rada kitchen knives which are so popular. I can pull one of those through my Warthog Sharpener a few times and it will shave. I realize this is a totally different concept from the steels used in Spydrrco knives but with a super steel that didn't chip along the edge you could sharpen quick and get an edge that would last for quite a while.
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#12

Post by Blerv »

We are going back and forth on the laminated FRN sprint of the Stretch coming out eventually. As I understand the first non-Moki laminated folder from Spyderco.
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#13

Post by GoodEyeSniper »

the endura, Delica, and stretch models in super blue will all be laminated. the endura should be out any time now.
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#14

Post by xceptnl »

The Deacon wrote:Are you, by chance, confusing Super Blue with ZDP-189 as used in Moki knives like the Caly 3? While I'm no fan of non-stainless steels like Super Blue, I wasn't aware any of the Spydercos that use it have laminated blades.
The new Delica / Endura / Stretch (Probably ladybug and dragonfly) are made in the same Japanese factory (Sakai) that makes the ZDP Delica / Endura / Stretch. This factory uses solid ZDP and laminates the Superblue where Moki does the opposite. Further reading (can't find the tread right now) revealed that these new laminated Superblue knives will not just be a sandwich of Superblue between 420J2, but in fact they will be more like a diamond shape wedged into the leading edge of the cross section.

P.S. This is one of the posts I was remembering, but it doesn't explain the difference I was trying to get to about the lamination difference from the usual sandwich.
IG-88 wrote:I asked Sal if it was 420 like the Caly 3 and he knew for sure it was not 420 but a much harder steel with the same harding cycles as Superblue after some thinking he said he thought it was ATS-34 but he was not 100% sure. Whats nice is that Sal also told Spyderco only uses 2 japanees company for the Superblue knives, Moki and Sakai. Moki stamps out the superblue blades, thats why they are solid Superblue but doesn't doe it for ZDP-189 and laminates the ZDP. Sakai on the other does the opposite. They prefer to laminate the Superblue and do the ZDP in one piece. Very funny IMO to see 2 maker with the same steel do just the opposite ;) And this is another trick to see where your blade is make. Laminted ZDP and full Superblue for Moki and Laminated Superblue and full ZDP for Sakai :) Thx Sal for sharing this knowledge!!
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#15

Post by The Deacon »

Blerv wrote:We are going back and forth on the laminated FRN sprint of the Stretch coming out eventually. As I understand the first non-Moki laminated folder from Spyderco.
Ah, so a blade that can rust easily on the edge, but won't take a patina. Seems like a lose/lose proposition to me, but what do I know.
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#16

Post by Blerv »

Haha! Not for me. My Superblue Caly3 is Tuf-clothed weekly :) .

Laminating a brittle steel makes it tougher as a conglomerate, more corrosion resistant (or rust for non-afi's), and cheaper to grind. Combined with the FRN scales and I think it's the perfect exotic for the less empathetic.
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#17

Post by xceptnl »

If nothing else the exposed edge will patina, yet Spyderco will not have to worry about the corrosion under the liners and around the pivot. I prefer the solid Superblue, but if this helps with the pricepoint, then I am willing to compromise.
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#18

Post by xceptnl »

Sorry to hijack your thread toomzz!
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#19

Post by bh49 »

The Deacon wrote:Ah, so a blade that can rust easily on the edge, but won't take a patina. Seems like a lose/lose proposition to me, but what do I know.
Paul,
I saw the same configuration on quite a few Japanese made kitchen knives. Hard edge and much more resistant blade to compare with solid super blue.
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#20

Post by Jax »

I am sure if spyderco released a ultra thin bladed medium to large sized folder it would be a hit.
I saw one fellow on youtube with a Krein reground caly 3.5 super blue,and it looked pretty formidable as a all out,gloves are off,**** the torpedoes slicer..
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