Favorite Lube?
Favorite Lube?
I saw the thread about the new Nano-oil and figured I'd ask around now about other products. I'm currently using what I do with other types of weapon systems, more specifically the Mil-Comm synthetic grease (non-toxic as it turns out), their TW-25B. It's available in a .5cc syringe, which is just about right for putting a small drop at the pivot-pin in close quarters, without any trouble. It has a small "o" ring at the top, which acts as a seal when not in use by pivoting the needle end. I use this stuff on semi-autos and it works pretty well. From time to time I also use some of the Royal Purple synthetic motor oil for actions. I may give this stuff a try on a pivot also, as it won't gum like dino-oil over time. The only drawback with the TW25B grease is that it tends to separate over time while in storage, and becomes more of an oil than a grease in the tube. That's no biggie for me in this desert environment, as storage and a dry climate is fine for knives & other things.
Not sure about the long term effects of these two types of lubes with respect to grit & pocket lint. Time will tell, but I'm anal enough about maintenance that it really isn't much of a concern to me. I figure any decent lube and a regular cleaning will take care of most troubles. What say you about your favorite lube?
Not sure about the long term effects of these two types of lubes with respect to grit & pocket lint. Time will tell, but I'm anal enough about maintenance that it really isn't much of a concern to me. I figure any decent lube and a regular cleaning will take care of most troubles. What say you about your favorite lube?
Ray Allen
Hi,
After years of trying various lubes and cleaners for firearms and knives, I started using Slip 2000 products in most cases and have not regretted it at all. May not float your boat, but, they are a company for sure to at least be aware of. Non toxic and no smell. If you check out their web site and who is running with their stuff you may be very suprised.
Best...
After years of trying various lubes and cleaners for firearms and knives, I started using Slip 2000 products in most cases and have not regretted it at all. May not float your boat, but, they are a company for sure to at least be aware of. Non toxic and no smell. If you check out their web site and who is running with their stuff you may be very suprised.
Best...
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- The Mastiff
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Most of my folders need very little lube. A dry teflon type, or even moly ( moly powder like I used when assembling S&W Revolvers) is fine for many of my uses. For corrosion I often get by with a wipe down with a silicone impregnated cloth. I keep one handy like I do a DMT coarse for touch ups. Storage will typically be a coating of renn wax to seal off the steel after it has been cleaned of any salts, chemicals, etc. I don't store in leather sheaths or pouches.
The occasional cleaning of the knives action and moving parts or bearings is done by need and tailored to that specific knife. I can use anything from action /brake cleaner on down to just letting my FRN VG10 Endura ride through the washing machine cycle and dryer ( on low). This has given pretty amazing results on my enduras as the fibers that get stuck in the built in trap get the oil washed out, and they dry up stuck together ready to remove as a wad of stuff similar to the things that accumulate in the pockets of my jeans.Needless to say no bleach is used in these situations. Oils would be removed if present before throwing in with the wash, as would any chemicals but I don't use much of those anyway. Pure silicone is sometimes used but that's more a corrosion proofing measure.
Naturally my Super blue and ZDP Carbon fiber knives are treated differently. Toothpicks, Q-tips, old toothbrushes and long needle nose or hemostats are handy here just as they are in gun cleaning ( ex armorer with various factory certifications). I am not above making my own specialized tools for things like setting springs in areas my extra thick, nerve damaged fingers just won't go.
One thing I am not real fond of is the bearing systems like IKBS. Sure they are smooth. I don't need them to be happy, and I sure don't like chasing the tiny things down. For me, the less complicated, and the least amount of parts involved ,the happier I am. Especially when the composition of the parts are specially selected and hardened to the correct hardness to give a light, strong and long designed lifespan. That impresses me much more than any ball bearing system ( Note I am not saying gimmick.)
Joe
The occasional cleaning of the knives action and moving parts or bearings is done by need and tailored to that specific knife. I can use anything from action /brake cleaner on down to just letting my FRN VG10 Endura ride through the washing machine cycle and dryer ( on low). This has given pretty amazing results on my enduras as the fibers that get stuck in the built in trap get the oil washed out, and they dry up stuck together ready to remove as a wad of stuff similar to the things that accumulate in the pockets of my jeans.Needless to say no bleach is used in these situations. Oils would be removed if present before throwing in with the wash, as would any chemicals but I don't use much of those anyway. Pure silicone is sometimes used but that's more a corrosion proofing measure.
Naturally my Super blue and ZDP Carbon fiber knives are treated differently. Toothpicks, Q-tips, old toothbrushes and long needle nose or hemostats are handy here just as they are in gun cleaning ( ex armorer with various factory certifications). I am not above making my own specialized tools for things like setting springs in areas my extra thick, nerve damaged fingers just won't go.
One thing I am not real fond of is the bearing systems like IKBS. Sure they are smooth. I don't need them to be happy, and I sure don't like chasing the tiny things down. For me, the less complicated, and the least amount of parts involved ,the happier I am. Especially when the composition of the parts are specially selected and hardened to the correct hardness to give a light, strong and long designed lifespan. That impresses me much more than any ball bearing system ( Note I am not saying gimmick.)
Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800
"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
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- einstein2001
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WD-40 :eek:
JK :p I've been using 3 in 1.
JK :p I've been using 3 in 1.
[table="width: 1100, align: left"]
[tr]
[td][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/td]
[td]Cruwear Military, CTS-204P Para 2, K390 Mule
Southard, Techno, Sage 2, Gayle Bradley
Super Blue Caly 3, Caly 3.5, Endura and G10 Ladybug
ZDP-189 G10 Dragonfly, ZDP-189 Nishijin Dragonfly
[HR][/HR]:spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder:
-Brandon
[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
[tr]
[td][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/td]
[td]Cruwear Military, CTS-204P Para 2, K390 Mule
Southard, Techno, Sage 2, Gayle Bradley
Super Blue Caly 3, Caly 3.5, Endura and G10 Ladybug
ZDP-189 G10 Dragonfly, ZDP-189 Nishijin Dragonfly
[HR][/HR]:spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder:
-Brandon
[/td]
[/tr]
[/table]
- phillipsted
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Einstein2001 just earned his Master's Degree in Trolling! :rolleyes:
Personally, I use NanoOil 10w, but I've tried almost everything on the market - petroleum, silicone, synthetic... Like several of the folks here, I don't use lubricant unless the knife needs it (corrosion protection is a different matter).
TedP
Personally, I use NanoOil 10w, but I've tried almost everything on the market - petroleum, silicone, synthetic... Like several of the folks here, I don't use lubricant unless the knife needs it (corrosion protection is a different matter).
TedP
Worry less - Breathe more...
Spydie Fanatic #185
Spydie Fanatic #185
- Alnamvet68
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I started using Slip 2000 EWL. Not a long test with it yet but so far so good. I chose it based on reading this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/502758_.html. I think there is another such test over on bladeforums.
Paul
:spyder: Sage1, Stretch II CE-sold, S35VN Mule,Manix 2 CTS-XHP, Delica BRG ZDP-189 PE, Manix 2 CPM M4, Para 2 CTS-20CP :), M390 Mule, #Southard Flipper, Left Hand Millie, Para 2 204P :D, Delica Super blue
It is a mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. -Aristotle
:spyder: Sage1, Stretch II CE-sold, S35VN Mule,Manix 2 CTS-XHP, Delica BRG ZDP-189 PE, Manix 2 CPM M4, Para 2 CTS-20CP :), M390 Mule, #Southard Flipper, Left Hand Millie, Para 2 204P :D, Delica Super blue
It is a mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it. -Aristotle
- Guy Vanderveken
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It is currently militec but that is because it is all I have right now. Looking to try out some other products and this thread has given me some great ideas on which products to try first. I think some nano-oil is in my future since I have heard good things on this forum and blade forums.
Current :spyder: : Para2's Brown, Blue & Orange, Etched Spin, CF Caly3 ZDP189, Gayle Bradley, UKPK Orange G10, Manix2 M4, Sage 1, Caly 3.5 in Super Blue, Urban Orange G10
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- ChapmanPreferred
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