Favorite Lube?

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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noseoil
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Favorite Lube?

#1

Post by noseoil »

I saw the thread about the new Nano-oil and figured I'd ask around now about other products. I'm currently using what I do with other types of weapon systems, more specifically the Mil-Comm synthetic grease (non-toxic as it turns out), their TW-25B. It's available in a .5cc syringe, which is just about right for putting a small drop at the pivot-pin in close quarters, without any trouble. It has a small "o" ring at the top, which acts as a seal when not in use by pivoting the needle end. I use this stuff on semi-autos and it works pretty well. From time to time I also use some of the Royal Purple synthetic motor oil for actions. I may give this stuff a try on a pivot also, as it won't gum like dino-oil over time. The only drawback with the TW25B grease is that it tends to separate over time while in storage, and becomes more of an oil than a grease in the tube. That's no biggie for me in this desert environment, as storage and a dry climate is fine for knives & other things.

Not sure about the long term effects of these two types of lubes with respect to grit & pocket lint. Time will tell, but I'm anal enough about maintenance that it really isn't much of a concern to me. I figure any decent lube and a regular cleaning will take care of most troubles. What say you about your favorite lube?
Ray Allen
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Ray Allen

#2

Post by Ray Allen »

Hi,
After years of trying various lubes and cleaners for firearms and knives, I started using Slip 2000 products in most cases and have not regretted it at all. May not float your boat, but, they are a company for sure to at least be aware of. Non toxic and no smell. If you check out their web site and who is running with their stuff you may be very suprised.
Best...
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Stormy
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#3

Post by Stormy »

We use Breakfree CLP for our guns and knives.
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Kihlo7
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#4

Post by Kihlo7 »

I second the Slip 2000, got some with my AR upper and it works great for guns and knives.
cckw
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#5

Post by cckw »

I agree with the Slip 2000. There are different thicknesses but the same thing otherwise. Just go to e-bay or etc and buy some and use it on everything that needs lube or rust protection.
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ronin6
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#6

Post by ronin6 »

frog lube, non toxic and smells like mint. (am I the only one who's mind went straight to the gutter? :D )
Good morning, I see the assassin's have failed.
GoodEyeSniper
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#7

Post by GoodEyeSniper »

i barely lube mine... unless they get really dirty and need a good cleaning. Maybe once a year for most, or if they start to look/feel gummed up.

usually a 3 in 1 oil i use for my guns.
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SQSAR
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#8

Post by SQSAR »

Lately I've been using Nano-Oil and like it well enough. It's not as great as some might claim, but it's pretty darn good. I use the 5wt now as I've found that works in pivots a little better than their 10wt does. I still use their 10wt on all my firearms actions.
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The Mastiff
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#9

Post by The Mastiff »

Most of my folders need very little lube. A dry teflon type, or even moly ( moly powder like I used when assembling S&W Revolvers) is fine for many of my uses. For corrosion I often get by with a wipe down with a silicone impregnated cloth. I keep one handy like I do a DMT coarse for touch ups. Storage will typically be a coating of renn wax to seal off the steel after it has been cleaned of any salts, chemicals, etc. I don't store in leather sheaths or pouches.

The occasional cleaning of the knives action and moving parts or bearings is done by need and tailored to that specific knife. I can use anything from action /brake cleaner on down to just letting my FRN VG10 Endura ride through the washing machine cycle and dryer ( on low). This has given pretty amazing results on my enduras as the fibers that get stuck in the built in trap get the oil washed out, and they dry up stuck together ready to remove as a wad of stuff similar to the things that accumulate in the pockets of my jeans.Needless to say no bleach is used in these situations. Oils would be removed if present before throwing in with the wash, as would any chemicals but I don't use much of those anyway. Pure silicone is sometimes used but that's more a corrosion proofing measure.

Naturally my Super blue and ZDP Carbon fiber knives are treated differently. Toothpicks, Q-tips, old toothbrushes and long needle nose or hemostats are handy here just as they are in gun cleaning ( ex armorer with various factory certifications). I am not above making my own specialized tools for things like setting springs in areas my extra thick, nerve damaged fingers just won't go.

One thing I am not real fond of is the bearing systems like IKBS. Sure they are smooth. I don't need them to be happy, and I sure don't like chasing the tiny things down. For me, the less complicated, and the least amount of parts involved ,the happier I am. Especially when the composition of the parts are specially selected and hardened to the correct hardness to give a light, strong and long designed lifespan. That impresses me much more than any ball bearing system ( Note I am not saying gimmick.)

Joe
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twinboysdad
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#10

Post by twinboysdad »

Astro glide hands down, but KY is not chopped liver :D
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kbuzbee
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#11

Post by kbuzbee »

ronin6 wrote:(am I the only one who's mind went straight to the gutter? :D )
Maybe. I didn't get it....

Ken
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einstein2001
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#12

Post by einstein2001 »

WD-40 :eek:

JK :p I've been using 3 in 1.
[table="width: 1100, align: left"]
[tr]
[td][SIGPIC][/SIGPIC][/td]
[td]Cruwear Military, CTS-204P Para 2, K390 Mule
Southard, Techno, Sage 2, Gayle Bradley
Super Blue Caly 3, Caly 3.5, Endura and G10 Ladybug
ZDP-189 G10 Dragonfly, ZDP-189 Nishijin Dragonfly
[HR][/HR]:spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder::spyder:
-Brandon

[/td]

[/tr]
[/table]
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phillipsted
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#13

Post by phillipsted »

Einstein2001 just earned his Master's Degree in Trolling! :rolleyes:

Personally, I use NanoOil 10w, but I've tried almost everything on the market - petroleum, silicone, synthetic... Like several of the folks here, I don't use lubricant unless the knife needs it (corrosion protection is a different matter).

TedP
Worry less - Breathe more...

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Alnamvet68
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#14

Post by Alnamvet68 »

I use Rusty's Rags for both care and maintenance of my guns and knives. I also use the Wilson Combat Ultima II. You may want to Google Rusty's Rags since I don't know if it's against forum rules to post links to non-Spyderco products.
pdptrow
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#15

Post by pdptrow »

I started using Slip 2000 EWL. Not a long test with it yet but so far so good. I chose it based on reading this: http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_3_7/502758_.html. I think there is another such test over on bladeforums.
Paul
:spyder: Sage1, Stretch II CE-sold, S35VN Mule,Manix 2 CTS-XHP, Delica BRG ZDP-189 PE, Manix 2 CPM M4, Para 2 CTS-20CP :), M390 Mule, #Southard Flipper, Left Hand Millie, Para 2 204P :D, Delica Super blue
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Guy Vanderveken
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#16

Post by Guy Vanderveken »

I moved from Militec over to Nano oil
Ferris Wheels
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#17

Post by Ferris Wheels »

It is currently militec but that is because it is all I have right now. Looking to try out some other products and this thread has given me some great ideas on which products to try first. I think some nano-oil is in my future since I have heard good things on this forum and blade forums.
Current :spyder: : Para2's Brown, Blue & Orange, Etched Spin, CF Caly3 ZDP189, Gayle Bradley, UKPK Orange G10, Manix2 M4, Sage 1, Caly 3.5 in Super Blue, Urban Orange G10
wespainter
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#18

Post by wespainter »

I use various lubes on my firearms, but stick to "Snake Oil" (developed for ultra high speed dental drills--get mine from Dillon Precision) for folding knife pivots and trigger engagement surfaces on firearms. A little goes a long way. I use a Sentry Tuff Cloth to wipe down my blades.
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ChapmanPreferred
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#19

Post by ChapmanPreferred »

Miltec at the moment.
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dano
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#20

Post by dano »

I dont believe in the nano oil hype. I dont lube teflon washers, and only a tiny bit on bronze, usually BM blue lube, or flourinated grease from CRK.
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