Just got a Manix 2 M4, lets talk about patinas

[Evil D]

I searched and there must be 50 threads about patinas, but none of them really answered any of my questions so instead of bumping a zombie thread, I'll just ask my question directly.

I just got a M4 Manix 2, and a patina of some sort is inevitable, whether formed naturally or forced. I sometimes use my knife for food prep, so rubbing it down with some kind of oil to prevent a patina is out of the question, plus I just honestly don't wanna deal with having a greasy knife collecting pocket lint all the time, and I just plain like the patina look anyway.

So, my main concern is the pivot area, because that's the spot I can't see or wipe clean so I'm most concerned about actual rust forming there. So...lets say I want to form a patina naturally on the blade...couldn't I force the pivot with lemon juice, then leave the rest of the blade alone to form naturally?

Second question, is there any reason to worry about blade play and/or a stiff or gritty opening after the patina is there?

Third question...If i didn't put a patina on the pivot, would a wax based lube like White Lightning be enough to keep the pivot from rusting?

Lastly, as they say, this thread is worthless without pics, so here's one of the only pics you guys will probably ever see of this knife without a patina or some kind of mod done to it :D



So far my only complaint is the color of the G10...I really wish it was a darker khaki color. I may look into dying it a little darker to match my work khakis.

[kbuzbee]

Congrats David. Great score!

So, my main concern is the pivot area, because that's the spot I can't see or wipe clean so I'm most concerned about actual rust forming there. So...lets say I want to form a patina naturally on the blade...couldn't I force the pivot with lemon juice, then leave the rest of the blade alone to form naturally?

I used vinegar on the whole blade for just that reason. Came out just the way I like it.



If I were to redo it, I'd polish the blade first to get rid of the grind lines. I think it would really clean up the whole look.

Second question, is there any reason to worry about blade play and/or a stiff or gritty opening after the patina is there?

No blade play in mine but it isn't "quite" as smooth as it was initially. But very, VERY close. Not enough to notice unless I'm looking for it.

Third question...If i didn't put a patina on the pivot, would a wax based lube like White Lightning be enough to keep the pivot from rusting?

Probably. Or even tuff glide. But I'd want to reapply it every 3-6 months.

Ken

[Evil D]

I'm curious about the pivot, even with a patina I would think just opening it would wear it off eventually so lube is probably still needed. I'm planning on forcing mine with lemon juice like gull wing did in this thread http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... =m4+patina

If I were to leave the blade solid black and not stonewash or scotch brite it, I would assume that through use the black would start to wear off...that's probably the look i'm going for. It's going to look weird with a black blade and tan scales.

[Holland]

I would use vegetable oil with the pivot and then let the rest of the blade develop naturally

[Evil D]

I would use vegetable oil with the pivot and then let the rest of the blade develop naturally

Thought about that, but have you ever used a wet lube on a pocket carried knife? They fill up with lint in the pivot in a matter of days. To me, lint in the pivot is just something else to hold in moisture.

[kbuzbee]

If I were to leave the blade solid black and not stonewash or scotch brite it, I would assume that through use the black would start to wear off...that's probably the look i'm going for. It's going to look weird with a black blade and tan scales.

It might but I've found it's pretty tough stuff. Difficult to get off with sand paper, let alone "use". But it would probably loose the "dark" in spots. Still, patina self generates. I did put nano oil on the pivot but for lube. I guess it might help if the patina wears but I'm not worried about it.

Ken

[chukar8]

So far my only complaint is the color of the G10...I really wish it was a darker khaki color. I may look into dying it a little darker to match my work khakis.

Pics will be a must, I think the color is way to light too. I might just dye mine also.

[Evil D]

Pics will be a must, I think the color is way to light too. I might just dye mine also.

Will do. The blade is soaking in lemon juice as I type this (anyone know how long it needs to soak?). I may as well do the scales while it's apart.

I tell ya, you've got it bad when you get a rare sprint in your hand for less than an hour and already voided the warranty and are modding it :cool:

[Holland]

Will do. The blade is soaking in lemon juice as I type this (anyone know how long it needs to soak?). I may as well do the scales while it's apart.

I tell ya, you've got it bad when you get a rare sprint in your hand for less than an hour and already voided the warranty and are modding it :cool:

cant wait to see pictures david, make that baby a one of a kind

[Evil D]

Looks like i'm gonna take a shot at mixing RIT dye to get the color I want. Their site shows recipes on how much of what colors to mix to get certain colors. I'm going with either #287 or #461 on this page http://www.ritdye.com/colorit_color_formula_guide

[THE PUNISHER]

ooo this is cool.

show us.

[kbuzbee]

I tell ya, you've got it bad when you get a rare sprint in your hand for less than an hour and already voided the warranty and are modding it :cool:

I don't understand your issue, David.... Sounds completely normal to my way of thinking

Ken

[DeathBySnooSnoo]

I regret selling my M2M4...but always thought that it needed a dye job.

[Chipped Karambit]

I let my friend patina a high carbon steel for me and he ended up giving a bunch of condiments to his 7 year old and told him to draw on the blade. It actually turned out beautifully. Mustard seemed to be his favorite. I recommend stabbing a grapefruit or apple and leaving it in there for a bit. I heard some people use potatos????? No clue if that works, but vinegar works too

[Blerv]

Mine is boring and oily as mentioned so I can't contribute further :) . Lol

How do you like the knife David? Cut up stuff yet?

[Evil D]

Mine is boring and oily as mentioned so I can't contribute further :) . Lol

How do you like the knife David? Cut up stuff yet?

Not really. I cut some phone book paper, but like every Manix 2 I've had, it really wasn't very sharp out of the box. Not sure what's going on with the Manix 2 sharpening, but I've had 3 now in 3 different steels and they were all sub-par sharp, nowhere near as sharp as some of my other Spyderco knives. I didn't bother sharpening it since I knew I'd have to hit the bevel again after doing the patina anyway.

As for the scales, they're done....and man they are sexy. They have a weird sort of natural linen micara look to them. The blade isn't ready yet, it's a gunmetalish color but not quite black yet.

As for this patina stuff....is there any risk in damaging pivot tightness like there is with acid etching a blade? I've been down that road and I'm gonna be extremely upset of this one develops blade play as a result of this.

[Ferris Wheels]

Looking forward to the end result and photos.

[chukar8]

cant wait to see your finished product.

[Clip]

My 154CM Manix was one of my sharpest out of the box, interesting. I've put Tuf-Glide on it (my M4 Manix) once on the pivot and all over the blade, and had no staining whatsoever. Then I removed it with mineral spirits on a whim, but ended up applying Tuf-Glide again. No patina after a year, lookin forward to yours.

[razorsharp]

I use tuffglide with nano oil on my Superblue caly 3.5, the friction ends up rubbing away any patina if there is any. Tufglide is supposed to bond with the steel and prevent corrosion, and the nano oil reduces friction better than the tuffglide. Forcing a patina in the pivot would work. Excess patina would wear away with opening