Sage4 titanium bolsters scratch easily. Who knew?

jackknifeh · #1

This is more about titanium than the Sage4 but the Sage4 is the only knife I've owned with titanium anything. The bolsters are getting very visible scratches that I can't imagine where they are coming from. I treat it the same a any knife with metal exposed on the handle and nothing else scratches as easily as ti. This is not a complaint, just an observation as well as information for someone considering a knife (or anything) with titanium. Personally, I like the "used" look. Seems to add character.

I would like to know the best way to remove the scratches out of curiosity. I had read ti scratches easily and some have removed the scratches and I'd like to know how just in case I want to remove them. My first thought is to use my Dremel and grinding bits. :eek: Not really. :) I was considering some steel wool. At this point I don't know why I would remove them because new scratches would replace them quickly.

Jack

The Deacon · #2

Yep, titanium scratches more easily than the stainless steels Spyderco normally uses for bolsters and handle slabs. From what I've read, anodizing it improves scratch resistance somewhat, but the downside is that those scratches which do occur are much more visible. And, as you noted, unless the knife is a display piece, removing scratches becomes a never ending task. Never bothered to do it, for that reason, but imagine any good metal polish and a soft rag would be your best bet if you feel like playing Sisyphus.

Wolverine666 · #3

I have not scratched the bolsters on my Sage4 so far. But I am a little more careful with this knife since it is such a beautiful piece. I would stick with a quality metal polish for the scratches you may already have. You will drive yourself crazy trying to remove every scratch every time. The titanium bolsters and Iron Wood scales are gorgeous. But apparently there is a price to pay for beauty (besides the $180 price tag) :) The Sage4 is still one my favorite Spydercos ever.

jackknifeh · #4

Wolverine666 wrote:I have not scratched the bolsters on my Sage4 so far. But I am a little more careful with this knife since it is such a beautiful piece. I would stick with a quality metal polish for the scratches you may already have. You will drive yourself crazy trying to remove every scratch every time. The titanium bolsters and Iron Wood scales are gorgeous. But apparently there is a price to pay for beauty (besides the $180 price tag) :) The Sage4 is still one my favorite Spydercos ever.

About the beauty of the Sage4. This is a funny (strange) thing to me. You are right, it is gorgeous IMO. I love beautiful wood and the AZ ironwood is beautifu, again IMO. Despite it's beauty I'm not concerned about the scratches or keeping it looking new. The GB OTOH is a knife that I want to keep looking beautiful even though it's designed to be a construction site tool. That's the worst thing about the GB. Do I use it as a gent's knife or an oil rig tool? :) I'm not worried about this with the Sage4 and truthfully, that's one thing I really love about it. Even scratched it's a gorgeous knife. Possibley more gorgeous. How do you explain that? :confused: :)

Jack

gbelleh · #5

Steel wool takes them right out. Makes it look new again. A few weeks ago, I put a big ugly scratch in my Sage 4 bolster, and just a minute with some steel wool took it out completely. I'm much less worried about carrying my Sage 4 now that I know any scratches can be easily removed.

Leatherneck · #6

Ti just doesn't present scratches as well as some stainless or pretty nickel bolsters. All my old pocketknives look right at home with swirl marks and small scratches. Ti (especially bead blasted) not so much.

JNewell · #7

jackknifeh wrote:This is more about titanium than the Sage4 but the Sage4 is the only knife I've owned with titanium anything. The bolsters are getting very visible scratches that I can't imagine where they are coming from. I treat it the same a any knife with metal exposed on the handle and nothing else scratches as easily as ti. This is not a complaint, just an observation as well as information for someone considering a knife (or anything) with titanium. Personally, I like the "used" look. Seems to add character.

I would like to know the best way to remove the scratches out of curiosity. I had read ti scratches easily and some have removed the scratches and I'd like to know how just in case I want to remove them. My first thought is to use my Dremel and grinding bits. :eek: Not really. :) I was considering some steel wool. At this point I don't know why I would remove them because new scratches would replace them quickly.

Jack

You're surprised? :confused: :)

phillipsted wrote:Titanium will also get small scratches and dings with use over time. This is unavoidable and natural - and many folks here think that this gives the knife character. Personally, I agree, and wouldn't worry about the titanium at all - get full use out of your new blade.

TedP

jackknifeh wrote:You guys are almost making me want to take my brand new (22 hours old) Sage4 and rub it around in the dirt in my yard. :) Or, maybe rub it with some of the silicone carbide I use to flatten my stones. Well, I'm not going to do that. I want all of it's wounds to be battle scars, not self inflicted. :D Funny I feel that way because most of my battle scars are self inflicted. :mad: :D

Jack

Wolverine666 · #8

jackknifeh wrote:About the beauty of the Sage4. This is a funny (strange) thing to me. You are right, it is gorgeous IMO. I love beautiful wood and the AZ ironwood is beautifu, again IMO. Despite it's beauty I'm not concerned about the scratches or keeping it looking new. The GB OTOH is a knife that I want to keep looking beautiful even though it's designed to be a construction site tool. That's the worst thing about the GB. Do I use it as a gent's knife or an oil rig tool? :) I'm not worried about this with the Sage4 and truthfully, that's one thing I really love about it. Even scratched it's a gorgeous knife. Possibley more gorgeous. How do you explain that? :confused: :)

Jack

I completely understand. Even all dinged up , the Sage4 is a real looker. That being said , I would never let mine get to a point where was considered "all dinged up". I carry mine only in certain situations. If I needed a similarly small sized knife that may get a bit roughed up then I would use my Native5. G10 is extremely durable and won't really scratch.

phillipsted · #9

I've got several Ti knives and tools for EDC, and they get dinged up and scratched if you even look at them sideways. These day-to-day "usage marks" are what gives the knife its character - the same way as a patina on a non-stainless blade does. Jack, I'd suggest that you just let the knife accumulate its beauty marks and enjoy using it. Life's too short to polish the bolsters every time you carry it.

Just my $0.02...

TedP

jackknifeh · #10

phillipsted wrote:I've got several Ti knives and tools for EDC, and they get dinged up and scratched if you even look at them sideways. These day-to-day "usage marks" are what gives the knife its character - the same way as a patina on a non-stainless blade does. Jack, I'd suggest that you just let the knife accumulate its beauty marks and enjoy using it. Life's too short to polish the bolsters every time you carry it.

Just my $0.02...

TedP

I'll do just that. It's developing character by the minute. It's a good bet that the dings and dents my body has suffered have given me much character. :)

Jack

Blerv · #11

The Sage2's treatment is amazing. It hasn't scratched for me yet.

If the Sage4 is like the Ti treatment used on the Phoenix I hear you. Mine has a ton of small scratches. They aren't garish and I still love Titanium but they are noticeable. If so my guess is the texture of the Sage2 slabs wouldn't look nearly as sophisticated with the wood.

Donut · #12

I really doubt the Phoenix is titanium.

A Scotchbrite pad or Steel Wool should make it look like new, but try to tape over parts you don't want all scuffed up. (The screws and wood might look bad if they get scratched.)

gbelleh · #13

Donut wrote:I really doubt the Phoenix is titanium.

Seriously? The Phoenix is definitely titanium. Unless Spyderco is using some other lightweight, non-magnetic metal and just calling it titanium in the catalog.

And speaking of the Phoenix, I really need to scotchbrite mine. It has one, big, ugly key scratch all the way across one side.

v8r · #14

gbelleh wrote:Seriously? The Phoenix is definitely titanium. Unless Spyderco is using some other lightweight, non-magnetic metal and just calling it titanium in the catalog.

And speaking of the Phoenix, I really need to scotchbrite mine. It has one, big, ugly key scratch all the way across one side.

So does mine. The small ones aren't that bad, but with any brushed finish when a scratch is huge it really stands out.

Slash · #15

Steel wool wouldn't be my choice. You have a dremel, so get a few cloth polishing wheels for it. I assume you have polishing compounds like the ones used for strops.

http://www.google.com/m/products/catalo ... CEMQ8wIwAw

jackknifeh · #16

Slash wrote:Steel wool wouldn't be my choice. You have a dremel, so get a few cloth polishing wheels for it. I assume you have polishing compounds like the ones used for strops.

http://www.google.com/m/products/catalo ... CEMQ8wIwAw

Have you done this with a Dremel? That tool, despite it's small size scares the crap out of me. It's ability to do unbelievably precise work also means it can do much damage when in the hands of me.

When I first got my Dremel I dremelled about everything in the house. I wanted to polish the ferrel on my pool cue. The compound that came with the Dremel was too coarse and I dug into the ferrel too much. The damage isn't bad and it was my spare shaft but the capability of the Dremel got my attention. I don't have a spare Sage4 so I don't know. :) I do know if I tried it I'd use some of the DMT diamond paste instead of the Dremel compound.

The scratches are actually a feature of the knife that makes it look capable IMO. Plus I wouldn't try the Dremel on the ti unless I could try it on something else first. I have all the polishing felt things but even with the proper tools I'm too scared to try it on the knife. I wonder if there is a Dremel forum for questions like this. :confused: EDIT: Guess what, Dremel has a forum. I just checked.

Jack

gbelleh · #17

There's nothing to worry about with steel wool. It really works great, and doesn't take much effort at all, just a few swipes to take out scratches. Much easier than trying to use a Dremel, especially if you already have reservations about it.

Blerv · #18

I'd rather go hand power and play with various abrasives. At the least you will get a very even finish.

angusW · #19

jackknifeh wrote:Have you done this with a Dremel? That tool, despite it's small size scares the crap out of me. It's ability to do unbelievably precise work also means it can do much damage when in the hands of me. When I first got my Dremel I dremelled about everything in the house. I wanted to polish the ferrel on my pool cue. The compound that came with the Dremel was too coarse and I dug into the ferrel too much. The damage isn't bad and it was my spare shaft but the capability of the Dremel got my attention. I don't have a spare Sage4 so I don't know. :) I do know if I tried it I'd use some of the DMT diamond paste instead of the Dremel compound.

The scratches are actually a feature of the knife that makes it look capable IMO. Plus I wouldn't try the Dremel on the ti unless I could try it on something else first. I have all the polishing felt things but even with the proper tools I'm too scared to try it on the knife. I wonder if there is a Dremel forum for questions like this. :confused: EDIT: Guess what, Dremel has a forum. I just checked.

Jack

http://messageboard.dremel.com/
:D

I don't own any Ti edc stuff just for this reason. I know most people like the scratches and dings as it gives it character but it doesn't sit well with me.

Slash · #20

I could be mistaken. But, don't jewelers use cloth wheels on precious metals?
If it works for that, then surely it will work on Ti.

http://www.lacywest.com/clean.htm

I found this and thought it looked interesting. Probably similar to squirting wd40 on a cloth and sprinkling it with aluminum oxide and going to town hand rubbing it for a super high mirror finish.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HiWmT_lQ ... ata_player

I think it should be noted there are various types of steel wools. So, when suggesting to rub steel wool on someones $170 knife, might be nice to specify which one.