Top Ten Rules for Using the Sharpmaker

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JohnTaylor
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Top Ten Rules for Using the Sharpmaker

#1

Post by JohnTaylor »

As I shared in another earlier post in the forum I am just begining to learn how to use the Sharpmaker. I re-profiled two kitchen/chef's knives that I "mangled" earlier with a very cheap sharpener and was able to get pretty good results all the way through the Ultra Fine Triangle Rods.

Later this week I will be getting the Tenacious I ordered and I want to treat this knife correctly. Of course, I have reviewed the DVD and several really informative YouTube videos. However, I want to boil all of this great information down to a set of Top Ten written Rules I can review at a glance just before sharpening my knives... kinda like a cheat sheet. I am interested in knowing your thoughts.

Thanks in advance!!!
rycen
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#2

Post by rycen »

Use a sharpie to see where you are hitting the edge and don't drag the tip off the rods.
We would rather be the knife in your pocket, because is "works" better, than the knife in your showcase, because it "looks" better.

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maa14
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#3

Post by maa14 »

rycen wrote:Use a sharpie to see where you are hitting the edge and don't drag the tip off the rods.
This for sure and the dragging the tips off the rods will take the sharp tip off of the knife and many people have had this happen, including me ;)
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araneae
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#4

Post by araneae »

Slow and consistent passes will yield the best results in my experience.
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God'sMyJudge
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#5

Post by God'sMyJudge »

what do you mean by "use a sharpee" ?
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maa14
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#6

Post by maa14 »

God'sMyJudge wrote:what do you mean by "use a sharpee" ?
You take a sharpie and put some of it on the edge bevel then have a few passes on the sharpener and see where the stones are taking the sharpie off and obviously if it hitting the edge the sharpie will not be on the edge. This is just to make sure that you are hitting the edge instead of getting frustrated thinking you can't get the knife sharp when really you are not hitting the edge, therefore not sharpening the knife.I have also done this too :o
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Benny90
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#7

Post by Benny90 »

Mark your bevel with a sharpie marker. Then run a few passes on the Sharpmaker. That way you know exactly where it is being sharpened. With other maker knives this is very handy as they sometimes use a wider angle needing reprofiling. With the sharpie you will see only the 'shoulders of the bevel have the sharpie removed.
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maa14
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#8

Post by maa14 »

Benny90 wrote: With other maker knives this is very handy as they sometimes use a wider angle needing reprofiling. With the sharpie you will see only the 'shoulders of the bevel have the sharpie removed.
this also ;)
:spyder:'s =FFG ZDP-189 Delica...Manix2...saber grind VG10 Delica...bug...Blue M390 Paramilitary 2...SE hawkbill Ladybug salt...sharpmaker with UF stones.orange and red baliyo...
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Benny90
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#9

Post by Benny90 »

maa14 wrote:)
Beat me to it :D
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#10

Post by rg02 »

Get a loupe! A loupe and a sharpie are key so you know what you are doing to the edge! I also recommend getting the diamond and ultra fine rods so you have all your bases covered.
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#11

Post by Agent_Ohm »

clean the stones as much as possible. i use bon ami and a dish sponge on the coarse side
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#12

Post by mattman »

use lighter pressure, on the last few passes.
JD Spydo
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A Loupe is a great sharpeing aid

#13

Post by JD Spydo »

rg02 wrote:Get a loupe! A loupe and a sharpie are key so you know what you are doing to the edge! I also recommend getting the diamond and ultra fine rods so you have all your bases covered.
Excellent suggestion "RG02". I've had a Bausch & Lomb 9X by 17X loupe for some time now> I'm looking to move up to a ZEISS loupe of a higher power or I might even get a binocular Loupe like Doctors & Dentists use quite frequently. It sure has been an excellent aid to me for finite metal working of all types and it's a tool I use almost daily now.

You've just got to know where you are removing stock from to know whether or not you are working in a vital area of the edge. If you don't grind in proper relief at the proper angle you could be working all day long and still not get anything done. Sharpening skills are nothing more than good common sense when you get right down to it.
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#14

Post by phillipsted »

Always, always use the hand guards. All it takes is one errant stroke to make you wish you had...

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JD Spydo
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A Clamping system for the Sharpmaker is very helpful

#15

Post by JD Spydo »

One thing I've done in the past 2 years or so when using my Sharpmaker is that I now have a system for clamping it to the workbench or table that I happen to be working on at the given time.

Recently I've been using one of the Vise Grip tools ( Model "11SP"). It's sort of a welder's clamp that you can use to clamp the 204 Sharpmaker base to the bench or table. It holds the entire kit solid so you can put all of your attention into the actually sharpening process. I think it's also much safer this way too.

Especially on fixed blades it gives me the ability to use 2 hands to steady the knife with during the sharpening process. The tool model again on that Vice Grip tool is "11SP" if you all want to look one up on the internet because at this time I have no way to put up pics at this time.

In a way I'm surprised that Spyderco hasn't tried to come up with some type of clamping system that could be used not only for their 204 Sharpmaker but for their Goldenstone and Duckfoot as well.

Because since I've been clamping mine solid to my workbench my results are faster and better.
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#16

Post by Mr Blonde »

Don't let the bladetip slide off the stones, keep it on the flats. That way you'll preserve the factory tip. It also helps to ever so slightly point the tip upwards when sharpening on the flats.
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Benny90
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#17

Post by Benny90 »

Agent_Ohm wrote:clean the stones as much as possible. i use bon ami and a dish sponge on the coarse side
+1 Got the same stuff, Bon Ami. Great stuff, a powdered natural non harsh chemical cleaner. Only one I could find without bleach in it and that's one thing you don't want. Also, it's less than a buck at Walmart.
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#18

Post by dbcad »

It helps to stand up while using the SM.

Take your time and if you start feeling frustrated, Stop sharpening until you are calm again.

Useful to read all of the other tips also :)
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#19

Post by jabba359 »

[ATTACH]20001[/ATTACH]

The rules of Sharpmaker.

1st rule: You do not talk about the Sharpmaker.
2nd rule: You DO NOT talk about the Sharpmaker.
3rd rule: If you can't get it sharp, or it doesn't hold the edge long, check for a burr.
4th rule: Only two other items needed - loupe and strop.
5th rule: One knife at a time.
6th rule: Light pressure, even strokes.
7th rule: Sharpening will go on as long as it has to.
8th rule: If this is your first time using the Sharpmaker, you have to watch the instructional video.
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#20

Post by Sht »

Don't watch TV! You'll do dumb sh!t. Like run the tip off the stone, wack the edge on the top of the stone or cut yourself. Ask my why I know this.
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