M4, Superblue? Your patination tips and pics.

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xavierdoc
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M4, Superblue? Your patination tips and pics.

#1

Post by xavierdoc »

Let's see some patination, baby!

I have been at pains to keep my GB stain free but I've let my other carbon spydies develop a patina (or I've forced it). Would love to see either natural or forced patinas plus tips on how they were achieved.

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UKPK G10, UKPK Ti, Para 2CF&20CP, Stretch CF, Stretch CF conv, Manix2 M4,Endura Wave, Endura ZDP189, Pacific Salt, Captain, Gunting S30v, P'Kal, Gayle Bradley,Atlantic Salt, Spyderhawk, Crossbill, Wings slipit
Mules: CTSBD1, Super Blue, S90V, VG10, S35VN, Cos-3, M390 Fixed: Bushcraft, Warrior
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xceptnl
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#2

Post by xceptnl »

Love the patinas. I have several carbon steel blades, however I have not let them start to turn yet. I look forward to seeing others replies though. Great Thread!
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sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
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knives_r'us
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#3

Post by knives_r'us »

Can you remove that patina from the blade?
syphen
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#4

Post by syphen »

Non of my M4 blades have been used enough or exposed to patina-inducing environments..

Some Superblue and copper though:
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eloreno
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#5

Post by eloreno »

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dbcad
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#6

Post by dbcad »

I prefer to let Super Blue patina naturally. Anything acidic that you cut will create a patina very quickly, in minutes or less. It's neat to see the way the patina evolves :) I think I can trace the latest dark streaks to lemons cut last week ;)
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razorsharp
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#7

Post by razorsharp »

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I should have repolished the edge :p :D

gotta love how the blade gets the colour people wanted the handle to be :p
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dbcad
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#8

Post by dbcad »

It does make for a nice contrast :) I should do the same :)
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Zenith
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#9

Post by Zenith »

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No tips or tricks sorry, just use on site:
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Have a GB on the way so when it arrives give me a month and it should look the same.
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xavierdoc
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#10

Post by xavierdoc »

Sweet pics!

@Eloreno -how's that regrind working out?
UKPK G10, UKPK Ti, Para 2CF&20CP, Stretch CF, Stretch CF conv, Manix2 M4,Endura Wave, Endura ZDP189, Pacific Salt, Captain, Gunting S30v, P'Kal, Gayle Bradley,Atlantic Salt, Spyderhawk, Crossbill, Wings slipit
Mules: CTSBD1, Super Blue, S90V, VG10, S35VN, Cos-3, M390 Fixed: Bushcraft, Warrior
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eloreno
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#11

Post by eloreno »

Doc,

It's working out beautifully! I much prefer the regrinds. When it comes to cutting, nothing comes close to a nice thin regrind. If I could afford it, most of my spydies would get thinned.
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Rockcrawler
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#12

Post by Rockcrawler »

I have been fighting the patina-ing on my caly superblue but I thing you all changed my mind. How does one make a patina without created rust? The little bit my caly SB did patina turned a orange hue. That was from slicing jalapeños.
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lambertiana
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#13

Post by lambertiana »

My SB Caly 3.5 has developed a nice patina from cutting fruit. Apples seem to work the best. Cutting meat, especially if it has barbecue sauce on it, also works well. I like a natural honest patina, not forced.
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razorsharp
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#14

Post by razorsharp »

Rockcrawler wrote:I have been fighting the patina-ing on my caly superblue but I thing you all changed my mind. How does one make a patina without created rust? The little bit my caly SB did patina turned a orange hue. That was from slicing jalapeños.
regular cutting will patina before it rusts it. That was normal patina, rust would have been a bit different
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Rockcrawler
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#15

Post by Rockcrawler »

razorsharp wrote:regular cutting will patina before it rusts it. That was normal patina, rust would have been a bit different
Ah thanks, now that I think about it, rust I see on mild steel for welding and my jeep parts from off roading is much deeper in color / penetration and sorta flakes.

Gonna keep the superblue patina going! More pepper slicing!
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xceptnl
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#16

Post by xceptnl »

razorsharp wrote:...gotta love how the blade gets the colour people wanted the handle to be :p
It is a beautiful color. I bet it would look terrific with white G-10 slabs. Hmmmm!
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sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
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Orion's Belt
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#17

Post by Orion's Belt »

I've cut all types of acidic fruits and stuff with my GB and there's no trace of patina. I think the previous owner put some Tuff Glide on it. Time will tell if it will ever develop a patina or not.
-Ryan
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jackknifeh
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#18

Post by jackknifeh »

Orion's Belt wrote:I've cut all types of acidic fruits and stuff with my GB and there's no trace of patina. I think the previous owner put some Tuff Glide on it. Time will tell if it will ever develop a patina or not.
I put Tuf-Glide on my Manix2 when I first got it. Tuf-Glide lasts a long time but not forever. I'm guessing you would want to apply it every couple of months or so to be sure to keep it protected. I tried to patina my Manix and was unsuccessful. I barely had any color change after hours of mustard, vinigar, potato, etc. Industrial strength solvent is supposed to remove Tuf-Glide. I used gun bore solvent. I still didn't get anything like people are getting judging by the pictures I've seen. In the daylight though the patina shows up nicely but indoors, it's barely visible. I only wanted patina to help prevent corrosion. My patina is on the tang also. I like that because hidden areas are suseptable to corrosion without notice. I do like the looks of it and tried to get a deeper patina on the blade but no luck so far. For the moment I've given up unless someone can come up with something I haven't tried.

Jack
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hunterseeker5
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#19

Post by hunterseeker5 »

I've found the best way to get a patina on something that has been tuf-glided is to put it in something like Evaporust. Its mildly acidic, so it'll etch it, and the chelation agent will strip the molybdenum disulfide. The result? This:
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#20

Post by Chris_H »

knives_r'us wrote:Can you remove that patina from the blade?
Yes, you can remove patina from steel with either a polishing compound or sanding it off. In this thread, though, most want to know how to get it.
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