What you use to sharpen? Methods?

[Vicinadp]

Im fairly new to actually knowing how to sharpen a knife. I currently use a dmt coarse stone, spyderco sharp maker medium, fine stone, then move to 1500 grit sp , 2000 grit sp, 4000 grit sand paper, then move to the UF rods, and then move to a strop with green buffing compound. I saw someone recently on Youtube finish a knife off with white buffing compound after using green compound. Wondering what you guys do to sharpen yours?

[razorsharp]

i reprofile the back bevel with 180, 600, 800, 1200 then 2000 , use autopolish to polish it up. Sandpaper doenst really give a great edge.

I do a micro bevel with some cheapo lansky crockstick medium rods, check for burrs, strop the burr side aggressively, check it didnt roll, strop 5 a side, and get a tp cutting, hair splitting yet fairly aggressive edge....... :D

[chuck_roxas45]

I rub against the sidewalk....Doc snubnose taught me to.

[Buffalohump]

Woah... it sounds like you putting a whole new edge on there. I prefer to touch up regularly.

I used to do everything on a Sharpmaker and then finally smartened up and invested in some more versatile sharpening equipment.

On the advice of a good knifenut buddy I got a DMT Duosharp (fine and extra fine) and a Spyderco Ceramic Whetstone (fine). The DMT is 8" X 2 5/8" and the Spyderco stone is 8 X 2".

These are both excellent tools that can sharpen pretty much anything. It was money well spent. Since I got them, I barely use my Sharpmaker at all.

[The Deacon]

I sharpen freehand and have been doing so for nearly sixty years. The stones I use most often nowadays are DMT diamond whetstones in coarse, fine, and x-fine. Also have medium and fine oil stones, but rarely use them. Did try a Sharpmaker a few years back, couldn't get the hang of it so it sits in a box.

[.357 mag]

Edge pro modified to take sharpmaker rods.

[dalefuller]

Sharpmaker for me. Usually just the F and UF rods. Sometimes I'll finish off with a bare leather strop.

[bh49]

Sharpmaker + congress stones. For few years thinking about getting edge pro, but still cannot pull the trigger.

[jackknifeh]

I use an Edge Pro because it will sharpen the edge to any angle I want. Also, if I sharpen someone else's knife I can set it to whateverh angle is already on the blade. It's about as versitile a system there is it seems. The only other "system" I've used is the DMT aligner sharpening system. It works real well but has a few little issues that prompted me to get the EP.

When I want to get a VERY sharp edge or just do a touch up I use Spyderco's fine ceramic stone. I want an ultra fine and will have one someday but the fine really does a great job. Also, I use strops for a final edge and touch ups when an edge is just a tiny bit dull.

I like you question because there are so many methods that end up with a great edge and product to use also. Since this forum gets input from people of many different locations you'll get a wide variety of information, which is great.

Jack

[Bert T]

Apex by Edge Pro. There are many systems out there that work, but Edge Pro is one of the best considering all factors. Expensive to start? Yes. And there is a learning curve. However, once all is mastered you will probably find it will be all you will ever need.

Bert

[SQSAR]

I too use the Edge Pro (EP). I use the EP stones, and also several Congress stones to limit the jumps between grits. I use all the polishing tapes and have recently added .3 micron tap I found at Woodcraft that has given remarkable results. I use my SM for any serrations I come across. I think sharpening can become very addictive, and to that I'd say the EP system is initially expensive, , , but it's a lot cheaper than if I was addicted to Crack. :D

[jackknifeh]

The EP Apex with all stones and stuff is around $240. If someone wants an EP but only has $160 I suggest getting the least expensive assortment set there is. The Apex 1 only comes with 2 stones which will do a great job. Then later you can get other stones when the money is available. The EP stones are great, but Congress tools has nice stones for less money. You will need to get additional stone blanks though but that will be a one time expense.

I'm not trying to sell the EP, just discussing different options. It's a very good system but there are many to choose from.


Jack

[arty]

For hard stainless steel, I will use a 1X30" belt sander with a 400 grit belt. I then go to Spyerco ceramic stones in medium or fine, perhaps going to the ultrafine. I finish with a strop that has 1200 grit valve grinding compound on one side and .5 micron Norton diamond paste on the other.
If I am sharpening carbon steels that are not stainless, I normally use a fine India or Norton Lilly While Washita to start with, and then go to hard or translucent hard stones.
If I just want a quick touch-up, I use the strop.
I freehand sharpen, and vary the method depending on the steel.
This is for knives - I may use a variety of waterstones for woodworking tools. I always use water on the natural stones.

[Vicinadp]

Well I had just re-profiled a CRKT My Tighe because the it had was terribly asymetrical idk if it was intended to be that way, but it pissed me off. As a result I probably will not buy any CRKT knives anytime soon. Plus the steel they use on it causes the edge to roll/flatten.(Atleast with the original grind)

[Vicinadp]

I also want an edge pro but I'm currently in college and the way I afford my Spyderco addiction is Donating Plasma and I just don't currently have the currency to drop on the Edge pro.

[D1omedes]

I currently use a Sharpmaker with UF rods to finish. I will be getting a strop for X-mas and will see how that goes. I really want to learn how to sharpen free hand, so I plan to eventually pick up some DMT Diasharps and a Spyderco UF bench stone.

[gull wing]

Most of the time - Paper wheels, with minor touch ups on the Sharpmaker.

Very Dull Blades - Reprofile edge with an Edge Pro, with minor touch ups on the Sharpmaker. (this is rare!)

Axes, camp knives - Reprofile on a 2 x 72 belt grinder,(being very careful), the, paper wheels.

[wquiles]

I profile/re-profile using a Lansky Diamond sharpener or Sharpmaker, and then create a slight convex edge by using 3M Lapping film against a soft back using 3-4 steps until about 5 or 3 microns.





If I am just touching up, I go straight to the 3M Lapping film.

Will

[jackknifeh]

I profile/re-profile using a Lansky Diamond sharpener or Sharpmaker, and then create a slight convex edge by using 3M Lapping film against a soft back using 3-4 steps until about 5 or 3 microns.





If I am just touching up, I go straight to the 3M Lapping film.

Will

Where do you get the lapping film?

Jack

[Hector Castro]

Edge Pro for me. It took some time to save the dough. I finally pulled the trigger, and will never look back. The consistency of the angle that the EP puts on a blade is the key. it makes a perfect profile every time. Then you can put a secondary bevel on it to make it a razor. No rounded edges. You can strop afterwards if you really want to, but if you go up high enough in the polishing tape, it is not necessary.