Caly Superblue after a month

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toomzz
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Caly Superblue after a month

#1

Post by toomzz »

Hello forum,

almost a month ago I got my Sprint Caly 3.5 Super blue in the mail. Eversince it rapidly became my favorite EDC knife. Here is the result after a month of peeling fruit, cutting (dutch :rolleyes: ) cheese and chopping all kinds of vegetables. I polished the back of the handle (liners, lockbar) mirror and for the rest it has became naturally how I wanted it to be; stained steel, dirty gray G10 and a mirrorpolished wicked sharp edge. There is no rust, pitting so far, the patina seems to be stable. A wolf in a sheepskin....

Cheers & enjoy your superblue's, don't fight the patina. Love it!
Tomas
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The Mastiff
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#2

Post by The Mastiff »

Toomzz, Looking good. The handle grips were causing a lot of concern. Have you had trouble keeping them so clean? I haven't, but I tend to not cut acidic fruits with the knife, and keep the blade waxed to keep the patina off.

I personally like the knife better than my S90V blades for EDC use. S90V has that vanadium bite but the tungsten bite the super blue gives at very thin, low angles makes it right up my alley.

In some ways I like it better than 52100.

Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800


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chuck_roxas45
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#3

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

What grit finish edges are you guys doing with the SB?
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toomzz
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#4

Post by toomzz »

Hey guys,

I didn't have any trouble keeping the light G10 clean. The G10 is getting dirty naturally. After use I wash the blade and handle with hot water and a little detergent. Despite brushing it off like this, still a little 'dirt' remains in the peelply and that is ok for me.

The superblue is an easy steel to resharpen. I found that the edge-retention is not of course up to S90V, M4 or ZDP but resharpening makes up for that 'loss'. It is a breeze, edge-retention is good. I am wondering what makes that the steel is such a slicer. The ease of resharpening? The molecular structure of the steel? Or the ingredients of the steel? Let me know, the stuff is awesome, I would like to know more about it.

I sharpen freehand, with the triangular stones, medium, fine, ultrafine and finally I strop the blade with Flexcut Gold on a leather strop. I did not change the edge-angle on the blade, that's beyond my knowledge (yet).

T.
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#5

Post by Sequimite »

I think I've had this for 2 months. The "Permanent" Marker has worn on the edges - still like the looks.

Image
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
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#6

Post by DCDesigns »

toomzz wrote:Hey guys,

I didn't have any trouble keeping the light G10 clean. The G10 is getting dirty naturally. After use I wash the blade and handle with hot water and a little detergent. Despite brushing it off like this, still a little 'dirt' remains in the peelply and that is ok for me.

The superblue is an easy steel to resharpen. I found that the edge-retention is not of course up to S90V, M4 or ZDP but resharpening makes up for that 'loss'. It is a breeze, edge-retention is good. I am wondering what makes that the steel is such a slicer. The ease of resharpening? The molecular structure of the steel? Or the ingredients of the steel? Let me know, the stuff is awesome, I would like to know more about it.

I sharpen freehand, with the triangular stones, medium, fine, ultrafine and finally I strop the blade with Flexcut Gold on a leather strop. I did not change the edge-angle on the blade, that's beyond my knowledge (yet).

T.
I think mastiff hit it on the head, isnt it the tungsten? I LOVE superblue, it is easily my favorite non-stainless, m4 being close behind.

I love m4 too, but it doesnt seem to be as good as a slicer, and inspite having a good about of tungsten, I feel it doesnt quite "bite" like SB does. Super blue just tends to "grab on" to what ever its cuttting, making cutting squishy things much easier. I believe squishy is a scientific term btw. lol.

Mastiff, I consider you one of the gurus on here on nonstainless steels. Could you weigh in on the properties of SB when compared to other carbon steels?
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#7

Post by Bolster »

Seq, you have some serious cajones to take a Sharpie to your sprint run. Gotta respect that at some level!
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
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#8

Post by Sequimite »

Bolster wrote:Seq, you have some serious cajones to take a Sharpie to your sprint run. Gotta respect that at some level!
This is a user and the light gray was kind of asking for it. I figure that if the marker doesn't last I'll try dying it.
Our reason is quite satisfied, in 999 cases out of every 1000 of us, if we can find a few arguments that will do to recite in case our credulity is criticized by someone else. Our faith is faith in someone else's faith, and in the greatest matters this is most the case.
- William James, from The Will to Believe, a guest lecture at Yale University in 1897
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Donut
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#9

Post by Donut »

toomzz wrote:Here is the result after a month of peeling fruit, cutting (dutch :rolleyes: ) cheese and chopping all kinds of vegetables.
Hey now... don't you know you're not supposed to chop with a folder?! :eek:


:D
-Brian
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#10

Post by Donut »

Nice looking patina, Tomas. :)
-Brian
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#11

Post by JNewell »

Bolster wrote:Seq, you have some serious cajones to take a Sharpie to your sprint run. Gotta respect that at some level!
Totally, very cool! :spyder:
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#12

Post by Fred Sanford »

Freakin' awesome bro. Love a good patina on steel. Awesome use.
"I'm calling YOU ugly, I could push your face in some dough and make gorilla cookies." - Fred Sanford
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#13

Post by The Mastiff »

DC Designs, Super blue is a high carbon tungsten steel alloy. The very high ( for carbon non powder steels) carbon make it less durable than steels with lower carbon like 1095, going down to 1085, 1070 etc. on down further to 5160 ( medium carbon spring steel known for its toughness).

On the other hand the high carbon makes it easier to get higher hardness. Tungsten does this ( helps with temps and higher hardness's) but mostly it makes tungsten carbides. These carbides are second to vanadium in hardness and smaller in size. So, we have a very clean steel making both iron carbides, and tungsten carbides as well as a pinch of chrome, moly, and vanadium ( at this small amount it's not going to make any vanadium carbides, but instead works as a grain refiner).

In effect you have an ingot steel with a lot of the qualities of powder steels. The story is that the steel is made from the same high quality iron sands used since and in the days of samurai swords.

You can't have everything. What is left out here is corrosion resistance but it makes up for the extra work in it's cutting ability, fine, stable edges and ease of sharpening.

I will go on record as saying that if you really want to see steels that need a lot of work try the highest carbon white steel Hitachi makes. It's the cleanest, purest steel on the market I'm aware of and it makes Super blue look like stainless. I grew up using carbon steels but it took even me by surprise. Both are used in high quality, high dollar chefs cutlery in Japan and are the types of steel you want when you are making sushi at a fancy restaurant where people know the difference and you want to be able to cut between the cell layers, and not leave any bruised tissue. That takes high quality edges and the Hitachi steels have ruled the market for a while. That is beginning to change now but a good forged blade by a well known master maker will cost a months pay on up.

Such high carbon numbers are traditionally not compatible with chopping knives, swords, and such.

You can see yourself how it compares to the modern powder steels. It is as expensive as many powder steels, BTW.

Regards,

Joe


Reading materials.....

chart of hitachi white, blue and yellow steels:
http://www.paragoncode.com/temp/YSS_HCC_spec.pdf

Selection of Tool & Die Steels

Introduction

The success of a metal forming tool depends on optimizing all the factors affecting its performance. Usually, operating conditions (applied loads, abrasive environments, impacts, and other factors) determine how well a tool holds up. Most tool failures are related to such mechanical causes. However, with a variety of tool steels available for manufacturing metal forming tools, it is often possible to choose a tool steel with a favorable combination of properties for particular applications. By comparing the levels of metallurgical properties offered by different steels, tool users can determine which tool steels are best suited for fixing or resisting performance problems, or for enhancing tool performance. Tool steels can be categorized and compared by those properties which have a direct influence on tool performance: hardness, toughness (impact resistance), and wear resistance.

Cold work tool steels
• General purpose
&n— O1, A2, D2
• Improved toughness (impact resistance)
&n— S7, A9
• Improved wear resistance
&n— CruWear, M2
• High performance CPM
&n— 3V, M4, 9V, 10V, T15, 15V

Historically, tool steels used for stamping and forming tools have included A2 and D2, with occasional use of the high speed steel M2. A2 and D2 are familiar to most tool builders and tool users as common, general purpose cold work tool steels. They combine good all-around performance properties for stamping and forming with low cost, wide availability, and relatively easy fabrication. However, they sometimes do not provide the level of performance needed for high volume production. Specifically, where long runs and infrequent regrinding are desired, other higher alloy tool steels or carbide might be used to upgrade from these tool steels. Traditionally, other properties, such as impact resistance, may be sacrificed in order to gain the higher wear properties. Conversely, steels chosen for their resistance to impact or breakage may not be capable of high wear resistance. An understanding of these tool steel properties and related issues permits selection of the optimum steel for most applications.

Before discussing specific grades, it will be useful to discuss generally the properties of tool materials. The primary properties important to cold work tools are hardness, toughness, and wear resistance. Each of these properties may be varied independently in tool steels to some extent, so it makes sense to consider each separately. In fact, the same properties would be important to consider in carbide materials as well as steels. An understanding of these properties, combined with an understanding of what factors limit tool life for a particular tool (breakage, wear, deformation, etc.), will allow tool users to specify the best performing grade for nearly any application. Tool users can examine failed tools to determine which property may have been lacking in a tool, or which properties should be improved, and what other properties must be considered in alternate materials with the required improved properties.

Properties of tool steel
• Hardness
&n— resistance to deforming & flattening
• Toughness
&n— resistance to breakage & chipping
• Wear resistance
&n— resistance to abrasion & erosion

Properties of Tool Steels — Hardness

Hardness is a measure of a steel’s resistance to deformation. Hardness in tool steels is most commonly measured using the Rockwell C test. Hardened cold work tool steels are generally about 58/64 HRC (hardness Rockwell C), depending on the grade. Most are typically about 60/62 HRC, although some are occasionally used up to about 66 HRC.


Properties of Tool Steels — Wear Resistance

Wear resistance is the ability of material to resist being abraded or eroded by contact with work material, other tools, or outside influences (scale, grit, etc.) Wear resistance is provided by both the hardness level and the chemistry of the tool. Wear tests are quite specific to the circumstances creating the wear and the application of the tool. Most wear tests involve creating a moving contact between the surface of a sample and some destructive medium. There are 2 basic types of wear damage in tools, abrasive and adhesive. Wear involving erosion or rounding of edges, as from scale or oxide, is called abrasive wear. Abrasive wear does not require high pressures. Abrasive wear testing may involve sand, sandpaper, or various slurries or powders. Wear from intimate contact between two relatively smooth surfaces, such as steel on steel, carbide on steel, etc., is called adhesive wear. Adhesive wear may involve actual tearing of the material at points of high pressure contact due to friction.

We often intuitively expect that a harder tool will resist wear better than a softer tool. However, different grades, used at the same hardness, provide varying wear resistance. For instance, O1, A2, D2, and M2 would be expected to show increasingly longer wear performance, even if all were used at 60 HRC. In fact, in some situations, lower hardness, high alloy grades may outwear higher hardness, lower alloy grades. Thus, factors other than hardness must contribute to wear properties.

Hardness of Carbides

Alloy elements (Cr, V, W, Mo) form hard carbide particles in tool steel microstructures.
The amount and type present influence the wear resistance.

• HARDENED STEEL • 60/65 HRC
• CHROMIUM CARBIDES • 66/68 HRC
• MOLYBDENUM CARBIDES • 72/77 HRC
• TUNGSTEN CARBIDES • 72/77 HRC
• VANADIUM CARBIDES • 82/84 HRC

Tool steels contain the element carbon, in levels from about 0.5% up to over 2%. The minimum level of about 0.5% is required to allow the steels to harden to the 60 HRC level during heat treating. The excess carbon above 0.5% plays little role in the hardening of the steels. Instead, it is intended to combine with other elements in the steel to form hard particles called carbides. Tool steels contain elements such as chromium, molybdenum, tungsten, and vanadium. These elements combine with the excess carbon to form chromium carbides, tungsten carbides, vanadium carbides, etc. These carbide particles are microscopic in size, and constitute from less than 5% to over 20% of the total volume of the microstructure of the steel. The actual hardness of individual carbide particles depends on their chemical composition. Chromium carbides are about 65/70 HRC, molybdenum and tungsten carbides are about 75 HRC, and vanadium carbides are 80/85 HRC.


http://www.crucible.com/eselector/gener ... part1.html
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800


"Unless you're the lead dog the view is pretty much gonna stay the same!"
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Bolster
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#14

Post by Bolster »

Righteous post, Joe. Thanks.
Steel novice who self-identifies as a steel expert. Proud M.N.O.S.D. member 0003. Spydie Steels: 4V, 15V, 20CV, AEB-L, AUS6, Cru-Wear, HAP40, K294, K390, M4, Magnacut, S110V, S30V, S35VN, S45VN, SPY27, SRS13, T15, VG10, XHP, ZWear, ZDP189
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#15

Post by Jazz »

Sequimite wrote:I think I've had this for 2 months. The "Permanent" Marker has worn on the edges - still like the looks.

Image
That's really groovy and creative. Thanks for sharing. I once drew on a whole pair of pants with permanent markers (back in the 80's :rolleyes :) . It was quite permanent.

- best wishes, Jazz.
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#16

Post by syphen »

My new 3.5SB:

Image
Image

The Method:

Image


The Results:

Image

Loving this steel!!
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#17

Post by razorsharp »

Cant wait for mine !!! >_< :d
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#18

Post by syphen »

So unless I've magically become a sharpening god, Super Blue is by far one of the easiest steels I own to sharpen. In no time at all! Vg10 and S30v take me much longer to get similar results. Wow is all I have to say!

This is my first carbon steel folder and I don't think it will be the last.
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#19

Post by eloreno »

I'm loving mine!!

Image
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#20

Post by syphen »

Nice Krein SB! That has to be a good slicer. How much was it taken down?
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