Manix 2 Grind Issues

EFS64 · #1

So I have my Manix 2 here, and it seems that from the factory, the heel of the knife was very dull, while the belly and tip was sharp (in all honest, i was not impressed with the factory edge, it was very dull). I ordered 2 of them because I had a coupon, and both of them came out of the box that way. Not very sharp, and with the heel of the blade too dull to even slice paper. How can I correct this grind myself so that I have a working edge for the whole length of the blade? If it helps, I have a sharpmaker and a lansky guide rod system. All help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Teddy Thompson · #2

You speak of a problem with the grind, but all you mention is that the edge of both knives is dull near the handle. If that's the only issue, and seeing that you seem to have excellent sharpening equipment, a good sharpening would seem to be the solution.

EFS64 · #3

Teddy Thompson wrote:You speak of a problem with the grind, but all you mention is that the edge of both knives is dull near the handle. If that's the only issue, and seeing that you seem to have excellent sharpening equipment, a good sharpening would seem to be the solution.

I have sharpened it. It is shaving sharp from the belly to the tip, but the grind seems to be off at the heel of the knife. No matter what I do, I can not get either of these Manix's sharp at the heel

WalzAaronFFG · #4

Just got my first Manix 2 yesterday and made a thread about it being dull out of box

( http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50012 )

Someone else chimed in and said something to the effect of "I have had thirty + spydies and this was the only one that didn't arrive with a hair splitting edge".. i'm paraphrasing of course. Anyway, I also got my new sharpmaker yesterday so I am trying to fix the issue myself. So far it has taken a lot of work. It still isn't as sharp as my other spydies have arrived

Maybe it is just a coincidence that multiple people are having this issue at the same time? Not making any assumptions (or accusations), but if I can't get my edge good enough to use with the sharpmaker I will call them and see about sending it back to be sharpened professionally.

Good luck

EFS64 · #5

WalzAaronFFG wrote:Just got my first Manix 2 yesterday and made a thread about it being dull out of box

( http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50012 )

Someone else chimed in and said something to the effect of "I have had thirty + spydies and this was the only one that didn't arrive with a hair splitting edge".. i'm paraphrasing of course. Anyway, I also got my new sharpmaker yesterday so I am trying to fix the issue myself. So far it has taken a lot of work. It still isn't as sharp as my other spydies have arrived

Maybe it is just a coincidence that multiple people are having this issue at the same time? Not making any assumptions (or accusations), but if I can't get my edge good enough to use with the sharpmaker I will call them and see about sending it back to be sharpened professionally.

Good luck

It seems to me like the relief cut is just too short. Its too abrupt of a transition at the heel of the knife. But as the blade gets toward the belly, the relief edge widens, and thats the portion that I have NO problem getting razor sharp....anyone else have any thoughts?

Evil D · #6

The bevel on mine was uneven from tip to heel. I used my Lansky to redo the whole bevel to my liking and all was well.

EFS64 · #7

Evil D wrote:The bevel on mine was uneven from tip to heel. I used my Lansky to redo the whole bevel to my liking and all was well.

I am new to this as well, so how would i redo the bevel on the lansky? I have been fumbling around with this for awhile, I dont want to remove too much metal and get myelf in a bind

Evil D · #8

EFS64 wrote:I am new to this as well, so how would i redo the bevel on the lansky? I have been fumbling around with this for awhile, I dont want to remove too much metal and get myelf in a bind

Unfortunately you're gonna have to remove some, but it's not like you're eating away any significant amount of blade that's gonna "use up" your knife. You'll have an easier time with diamond stones if you have them, or just use the course ones. If you're using the Lansky and a Sharpmaker, you may need to do some research on what slot on the Lansky best matches the angle of the Sharpmaker, since the Lansky is known for not being exact on their degree slots.

You should read up on this thread, we talked about how to set one up to achieve a particular degree http://www.spyderco.com/forums/showthre ... ght=Lansky

I don't have a Sharpmaker, so i just set mine up on 30 degrees and hit it with a course diamond stone, and i could immediately see where the edge bevel was going to change. The most metal that was taken off was more from the shoulder of the edge bevel than from the leading edge of the knife.

EFS64 · #9

I have the deluxe lansky. Ive got my blade clamped in now. Should I just put it on the 20 degree setting and go nuts with the coarse stone?

EFS64 · #10

Or i mean the 30 degree slot?

STAK · #11

:spyder: I own five(5) MANIX2 154CM HG, one of them is first production, one(1) MANIX2 CTS-XHP FFG, one(1) blue MANIX2 S30V FFG and six(6) MANIX2 S30V FFG DLC STAG ARMS so far and i intend to purchase some more in the future :eek: . . . . All of them are shaving sharp out of the box, i have reprofile two of them one MANIX2 154CM HG that i EDC at 15deg per side and one MANIX2 S30V FFG DLC STAG ARMS at 17deg per side :D . . . . Both of them, for about 0.5cm near the choil area seems to have some kind of different grind from the factory :rolleyes: . . . . This is an issue regarding the way that the SPIDIES have been profiled for the first time in their lives, when the SPYDERCO sharpener did his job

. . . . This can be corrected only by reprofiling the blade a few times more, that way some metal will be wear out and the new grind will replace the factory one

. . . . Keep reprofiling, when it is necessary and the results will come :) . . . . :spyder:

Evil D · #12

See i can't really help you there, especially if you're gonna use the Sharpmaker for touch ups...someone who has both will have to guide you on that, since if you use the wrong setting it may make it harder to use the Sharpmaker...ya know?

I almost made a thread about the Manix bevel when i had mine but i didn't feel it was bad enough to bother, and it was easy enough to fix so i let it go but i did get this pic of it.

It was higher at the heel than the tip. It didn't really effect sharpness, i'm just a perfectionist so i made it even. Oh and the edge isn't chipped up like it looks, that's just reflection on the edge making it look all ragged.

As far as doing the bevel, yeah you just go at it. I'd recommend always using a marker on the bevel if you don't already, it helps to see where you're hitting and what you're doing. I do one side all the way until i've made a burr on the edge, that way i know i've got that side completely down, then i switch sides. It can take some time but 154CM is among the easier steels to reprofile.

STAK · #13

:spyder: Follow the link for some photos of my reprofiled MANIX2's, i used the EDGE PRO (PRO) :

http://imgur.com/a/ODFWr :) . . . . :spyder:

The Deacon · #14

Your other option is to send them back for factory sharpening.

araneae · #15

The edge being a bit off is the easiest thing to fix on a knife. Sharpening a knife is an integral part of knife ownership and use. Its a valuable skill to possess. You have the proper tools, you just need to use them. Watch the sharpmaker video, it will get you where you need to be.

The other thread linked above has some good tips as well.

EFS64 · #16

The odd thing about it is, I can get the belly of the blade (everything from 3/4 inch past the heel up) SHAVING sharp, but the heel remains dull. It makes no sense.

chuck_roxas45 · #17

EFS64 wrote:The odd thing about it is, I can get the belly of the blade (everything from 3/4 inch past the heel up) SHAVING sharp, but the heel remains dull. It makes no sense.

That just means that the bevels on your knife are uneven. The planes of the bevels obviously meet from the belly to the tip(that's why it's sharp there) but the ones on the dull part also as obviously don't meet in an apex. I hope this crappy drawing makes it clearer. The profile on the left is a sharp knife and the one on the right is a dull knife.

[img][IMG]http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/503/edgeprofiles.jpg[/img] Uploaded with ImageShack.us[/IMG]

EFS64 · #18

Well, after a little work. Its seems to have improved. It still wont cleanly slice paper if i start at the heel, but maybe im too retarded and its my own error, i dont know. But it seems to have improved. I can shave with it (belly of the blade) and it cuts through cardboard and rope pretty good. all in all i think its a useable edge now

chuck_roxas45 · #19

EFS64 wrote:Well, after a little work. Its seems to have improved. It still wont cleanly slice paper if i start at the heel, but maybe im too retarded and its my own error, i dont know. But it seems to have improved. I can shave with it (belly of the blade) and it cuts through cardboard and rope pretty good. all in all i think its a useable edge now

There you are. Sharpening is no mystery, it just takes attention to detail and observation. There's lots to learn though and it's a lifetime of learning if you are inclined to.

Evil D · #20

It might sound obvious but the biggest realization i made when learning to sharpen is to just make a burr, then hone it out. I bet youre not making much burr at the heal, because you arent hitting the edge enough.