Reasembling an Endura 4.
Reasembling an Endura 4.
I took apart my ZDP Endura to clean a massive amount of gunk out of the handle and now can't get it back together. I read through Mr. Blond's disassemble and reassemble thread and am still having trouble. I can put the spring bar in, get the blade and back lock in place but doing this causes the part of the back spacer to flex away from the lock bar making it impossible to get the top steel liner on. If I force the back spacer into place the lock spring pops out. I worked on this for about 2 hours last night and got extremely frustrated. If anyone has any tips that would save me from sending it in they would be much appreciated.
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- tonydahose
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this might help...i fixed my messup in post 10
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.p ... ght=endura
http://spyderco.com/forums/showthread.p ... ght=endura
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1. Take apart
2. Clean/whatever it is you wanted to do
3. Start with the "front" scale: put the D-bolts in it along with its respective liner
4. Put the washer in, oil it, put the backspacer in
5. Put the blade in (and the other washer on top of it, and of course oil it), put the spring in
6. Now close the knife up. It might make it a bit easier to tighten the blade in the open position such that the blade won't flop around while you work
7. Now as for the D-bolt for the lock bar: put it in so that it doesn't go passed the first scale
8. Push the lock bar in from the top. There will be lots of tension, so you might have to push hard. Get it flat with the scale so that it's actually in the "locked" position
9. Use the desk or something to get the D-bolt to push through
10. Now you can tighten that torx screw. Don't over-tighten it, or else your knife will close strangely. If you overtightened the blade to keep it from flopping around, untighten it.
So the trick is to close the knife up before you introduce tension in the spring. I recommend doing the lock bar last because it's easier. Some people do the the blade last, and they use tweezers and stuff; I have no idea why they would do that when they could just do the lock bar last.
My process for finding the midpoint between too loose and too tight for the pivot pin:
1. Loosen both the lock bar's torx screw and the pivot's so that there is no tension.
2. Tighten the pivot until you find the point where there is little to no side-side play (look at it in the light; you can see the light coming between the scales and the blade).
3. Now tighten the lock bar's torx screw to the point just before it starts affecting the way the blade closes. I usually tighten a tiny bit, open/close to check, tighten a little more, open/close to check, rinse and repeat.
2. Clean/whatever it is you wanted to do
3. Start with the "front" scale: put the D-bolts in it along with its respective liner
4. Put the washer in, oil it, put the backspacer in
5. Put the blade in (and the other washer on top of it, and of course oil it), put the spring in
6. Now close the knife up. It might make it a bit easier to tighten the blade in the open position such that the blade won't flop around while you work
7. Now as for the D-bolt for the lock bar: put it in so that it doesn't go passed the first scale
8. Push the lock bar in from the top. There will be lots of tension, so you might have to push hard. Get it flat with the scale so that it's actually in the "locked" position
9. Use the desk or something to get the D-bolt to push through
10. Now you can tighten that torx screw. Don't over-tighten it, or else your knife will close strangely. If you overtightened the blade to keep it from flopping around, untighten it.
So the trick is to close the knife up before you introduce tension in the spring. I recommend doing the lock bar last because it's easier. Some people do the the blade last, and they use tweezers and stuff; I have no idea why they would do that when they could just do the lock bar last.
My process for finding the midpoint between too loose and too tight for the pivot pin:
1. Loosen both the lock bar's torx screw and the pivot's so that there is no tension.
2. Tighten the pivot until you find the point where there is little to no side-side play (look at it in the light; you can see the light coming between the scales and the blade).
3. Now tighten the lock bar's torx screw to the point just before it starts affecting the way the blade closes. I usually tighten a tiny bit, open/close to check, tighten a little more, open/close to check, rinse and repeat.
Im not good at sharpening, even with a sharpmaker. How get your blade good can your blade with an edge pro system? - Bladeforums user
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme
Has anyone really been far even as decided to use even go want to do look more like? - Some Online Meme