DMT benchstones on order...

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Michael Cook
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DMT benchstones on order...

#1

Post by Michael Cook »

:spyder: I ordered a DMT extra coarse and coarse diamond sharpeners from NGK so I can thin the edges on my zdp knives, e4s, d4s and re-profile my friends really dull knives (they slander the sharpmaker because their knives are so dull). My question, am I missing a step between the coarse DMT stone and the grey stones of the sharpmaker or can I just go from the coarse to medium? :spyder:
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#2

Post by yablanowitz »

It shouldn't be any problem to go from the DMT Coarse to Sharpmaker medium, especially if you are cutting a backbevel at under 15 degrees per side. I often leave my edges at the DMT Coarse finish for a little extra slicing aggression, especially on D2.
I don't believe in safe queens, only in pre-need replacements.
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#3

Post by Michael Cook »

:spyder: Good to know, my sharpening kit is pretty complete! :D :spyder:
More of what does not work will not work. Robin Cooper, Rokudan; Aikikai.

There is great power in the profound observation of the obvious. John Stone, Rokudan; Aikikai
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MAT888
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#4

Post by MAT888 »

Specially on the zdp 189 and other hard Hrc 's i'm wonderin if the fine and xtrafine would do some better . I bet they would handlin the new hard hrc steel specs. I am gettin me a fine extra fine DMT for faster sharpnin and the future................. other suggestions are welcome :D
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#5

Post by yablanowitz »

If I am going for a fine edge, I run through the DMTs from extra-coarse to extra fine. Then if I want to get really crazy, it goes on to the old Case Moonstone ceramic, but I don't do that very often.
I don't believe in safe queens, only in pre-need replacements.
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#6

Post by Fred Sanford »

Michael,

I need to order some DMT's myself. Just yesterday I was thinning down the edge on my Native III and I was doing it with a coarse stone from my Lansky kit. It took forever. :eek: :)

Let us know how you like 'em.
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gunmike1
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#7

Post by gunmike1 »

While it costs about $60, the DMT XX Coarse is way faster than the X coarse for reprofiling/rebevelling. A couple minutes of hard pressure back and forth strokes brought my ZDP Endura from 15 degrees per side to 10 per side. The DMT coarse then gets rid of the scratches left by the XX Coarse pretty quickly, and in only a few minutes you have a much more acute edge. The X coarse is no slouch for removing steel, but since I got the XX Coarse the X coarse stone hasn't been used at all. Also, I prefer the continuous surface diasharps compared to the "holey" ones, as they don't catch the tips while sharpening and work very well as flattening stones for those who use waterstones. As for going from DMT coarse to the Sharpmaker, it will work fine, but I use the DMT fine in between just because I already have the stone. I would guess it just takes a bit more time on the medium rods to refine the DMT coarse finish then it does on the DMT fine finish. I will have to try it, and if it doesn't take much longer than I may start skipping out on the DMT fine stone and go straight to the Spyderco medium, but in truth I only spend maybe 10 strokes or so on the DMT fine so it wouldn't really save me much time.

Mike
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Capt. Carl
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#8

Post by Capt. Carl »

gunmike1 wrote:While it costs about $60, the DMT XX Coarse is way faster than the X coarse for reprofiling/rebevelling. A couple minutes of hard pressure back and forth strokes brought my ZDP Endura from 15 degrees per side to 10 per side. The DMT coarse then gets rid of the scratches left by the XX Coarse pretty quickly, and in only a few minutes you have a much more acute edge. The X coarse is no slouch for removing steel, but since I got the XX Coarse the X coarse stone hasn't been used at all. Also, I prefer the continuous surface diasharps compared to the "holey" ones, as they don't catch the tips while sharpening and work very well as flattening stones for those who use waterstones. As for going from DMT coarse to the Sharpmaker, it will work fine, but I use the DMT fine in between just because I already have the stone. I would guess it just takes a bit more time on the medium rods to refine the DMT coarse finish then it does on the DMT fine finish. I will have to try it, and if it doesn't take much longer than I may start skipping out on the DMT fine stone and go straight to the Spyderco medium, but in truth I only spend maybe 10 strokes or so on the DMT fine so it wouldn't really save me much time.

Mike
Can you recommend a good cheap place to get these? There is some for 63 on ebay right now.
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#9

Post by gunmike1 »

Capt. Carl wrote:Can you recommend a good cheap place to get these? There is some for 63 on ebay right now.
Someone had them for around $50 a couple weeks ago on Ebay, I believe, but you are basically going to have to pay in the low $60's to get one for the most part. Cheaper alternatives are cheap hardware store X coarse stones or other cheap XX coarse stones, but then you will have too keep them flat (not too big of a deal), but they probably won't cut quite as fast. I guess you have to pay to play, but in my experience then DMT XX Coarse has held up to some serious heavy pressure reprofiling and still cuts extremely fast after over a year, and it never needs to be flattened or maintained. In fact, I use it to flatten my coarser waterstones sometimes.

Mike
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#10

Post by Capt. Carl »

Yea, my coarse DMT just isn't fast enough. My knives are all really obtuse, I have bad luck in that regard. So im in the process of thinning them out. S30V is taking a bit and suprisingly my VG-10 even in certain areas. Believe it or not I even have ZDP thats a little over 40 degrees inclusive and that will be a nightmare on coarse even I suppose. I have a ton of knives like this and some of my buddies as well. I figure I may as well drop 60 on an xx coarse instead of 100 on another spydie.
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#11

Post by LJK »

Yea I've heard really good things about that DMT XX coarse stone. Cuts fast and does not wear, or at least the diamonds don't rip out with hard pressure. I've had pretty good results thinning down my VG10 and S30V Spydies with a $20.00 8"x2" med India stone. (for thick fixed blades I use a 1x30" belt sander) I have a feeling I'll be needing diamonds for that ZDP Stretch II I'm planning on getting. ;)
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#12

Post by GarageBoy »

So..XX, followed by the Blue Coarse, work up to the xtra fines, then to Spydie brown?
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#13

Post by afulte »

I work here at Spyderco in the Sales Department. Has anybody tried the byrd Duckfoot yet?
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#14

Post by Will V. »

I didn't really understand the Duckfoot, until I looked at the product page you linked to. Now it makes sense.
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#15

Post by The Mastiff »

Is the XX coarse the black ones? Joe
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#16

Post by Will V. »

Silver = XX Coarse
Black = X Coarse
Blue = Coarse
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#17

Post by The Mastiff »

Thanks Will. I'm behind the times apparently. I didn't know about the silver. I'll have to get one. Is there a bifold with the silver? Joe
"A Mastiff is to a dog what a Lion is to a housecat. He stands alone and all others sink before him. His courage does not exceed temper and generosity, and in attachment he equals the kindest of his race" Cynographia Britannic 1800


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#18

Post by Will V. »

No problem, I was just looking it up on DMT's site the other day, so I had it fresh in my mind. I don't see a duofold with the silver in their online catalog.
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#19

Post by Michael Cook »

:spyder: Hey guys, got my stones today! I've just started thinning my zdp delica! :spyder:
More of what does not work will not work. Robin Cooper, Rokudan; Aikikai.

There is great power in the profound observation of the obvious. John Stone, Rokudan; Aikikai
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