Cleaning Blades???
Cleaning Blades???
Just wondering how others clean their blades. Sticky stuff like what you get on them from yardwork or cutting through tape on boxes. I use rubbing alcohol, just wondering if anybody knows if that would be harmful to a blade?
Thanks in advance!
Thanks in advance!
Intentionally Left Blank
Cleaning solvents
Rubbing Alcohol is what I do 90% of my blade cleaning with. However there is a little hint that will help a lot. When you go to one of your major drug stores to get your rubbing alcohol don't get the 70% Isopropyl ask the clerk to show you the 91% Isopropyl alcohol. I find that the 91% does solvenate considerably better.Gollum wrote:Just wondering how others clean their blades. Sticky stuff like what you get on them from yardwork or cutting through tape on boxes. I use rubbing alcohol, just wondering if anybody knows if that would be harmful to a blade?
Thanks in advance!
I have also used Starting Fluid that you can buy at most auto parts stores, hardware stores or farm stores. The "Starting Fluid from what I am told is nothing more than Ether. The same Ether that Anethesiologists used to put people under with many years ago. But none the less it is a great solvent especially wanting to degrease something.
Now if you got a terribly stubborn cleaning chore you can always try Carbuerator Cleaner. But definitely use rubber gloves dealing with it because it is very harsh to your skin. I have only had to use Carbuerator Cleaner a couple of times and both times it worked successfully.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
- Native Justice
- Member
- Posts: 187
- Joined: Fri Oct 28, 2005 12:28 pm
- Location: Littleton, CO
- Zac
- Member
- Posts: 1506
- Joined: Mon May 08, 2006 10:56 pm
- Location: Lutherville, Maryland, USA, Earth, Solar System
I used to own a car care compnay and the best thing for metal is Nevr Dull. I've tried hundreds of different methods and this stuff removes anything.
edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too; but I wouldn't use it in a non-ventilated area.
edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too; but I wouldn't use it in a non-ventilated area.
WARNING: Sanity not guaranteed.
- severedthumbs
- Member
- Posts: 1545
- Joined: Tue Sep 28, 2004 6:28 pm
- Location: USA Earth
- smcfalls13
- Member
- Posts: 7218
- Joined: Sun Jun 05, 2005 12:09 pm
- Location: Reisterstown, MD, USA, Earth
-
- Member
- Posts: 5736
- Joined: Fri Jun 02, 2006 12:41 pm
- Location: Ohio, USA
- vampyrewolf
- Member
- Posts: 7486
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Saskatoon, Saskatchewan, Canada
lets see... what have I used over the years....
zippo fluid
wd-40
goo-gone
mr clean magic eraser
dish soap and hot water
ride through the dishwasher (this one worked great when I washed dishes for a living, just send it through and it's dry minutes after coming out)
brake cleaner
zippo fluid
wd-40
goo-gone
mr clean magic eraser
dish soap and hot water
ride through the dishwasher (this one worked great when I washed dishes for a living, just send it through and it's dry minutes after coming out)
brake cleaner
Coffee before Conciousness
Why do people worry more if you argue with your voices than if you just talk with them? What about if you lose those arguements?
Slowly going crazy at work... they found a way to make the voices work too.
Why do people worry more if you argue with your voices than if you just talk with them? What about if you lose those arguements?
Slowly going crazy at work... they found a way to make the voices work too.
Polishing cloths
Scott makes a great point with the "microfiber" polishing cloths. Flitz makes a really great one. I have been using my Flitz Polishing Cloth for 3 years now and it shows no signs of wearing out yet. Also there is a great polishing cloth put out by the 3M company too.smcfalls13 wrote:If you want a completely dry method, try microfiber cloths. They remove pretty much everything.
I really like using the polishing cloth along with non abrasive polishes like Flitz & Knorrostol.
However when I am using Alcohol or other solvents I find a cotton cloth to be quite all right for that. For extremely stubborn removals there is also laquer thinner & acetone. But definitely use gloves with those 2 solvents because they are transdermal, flamable and omit potentially dangerous fumes.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
- jerseybounce_42
- Member
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:13 am
You folks might want to look at the MDS for the materials you use for cleaning. Xylene is nasty stuff and benzene / naphtha is generally recognized as a carcinogen. Ethyl alcohol doesn't stink as bad a isopropryl. Alcohol attacks some plastics. Nitrile rubber gloves seem to resist petroleum products better than most other commonly available gloves. Has anybody tried using turpentine for wood sap or Go-Jo to remove grease?
Im Himmel gibt's kein Bier
WTC 1993 was enough for me.
WTC 1993 was enough for me.
- jerseybounce_42
- Member
- Posts: 134
- Joined: Sat Jul 01, 2006 8:13 am
I’da thunk a green company like Spyderco (the people that include EARTH in their Golden, Colorado location of manufacture) would include, in their product packaging, some Earth and product friendly tips about the care and maintenance of their products. Can I get me a hunting license here?
Im Himmel gibt's kein Bier
WTC 1993 was enough for me.
WTC 1993 was enough for me.
Any organic solvent will do to rid your knives of sticky gunk. Rubbing alcohol, ether, lighter fluid (which is just some kind of petrol, iirc), nail polish remover (acetone). None of these are corrosive, they just evaporate very quickly (fumes) and combust with the slightest spark.
And yes, they're not all very kind to nature, but we're talking trace amounts here (a few drops on a piece of cotton will do), so no point in going berserk on that. And most, if not all, of them are natural byproducts anyway. :rolleyes:
Just ventilate well and keep flame sources far away. And don't eat or drink of course. Which accounts for work with any kind of chemical anyway.
And yes, they're not all very kind to nature, but we're talking trace amounts here (a few drops on a piece of cotton will do), so no point in going berserk on that. And most, if not all, of them are natural byproducts anyway. :rolleyes:
Just ventilate well and keep flame sources far away. And don't eat or drink of course. Which accounts for work with any kind of chemical anyway.
Help science, join Folding@Home !
- jaislandboy
- Member
- Posts: 6150
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2005 12:00 pm
- Location: tennessee
-
- Member
- Posts: 16
- Joined: Fri Sep 09, 2005 10:33 pm
- Location: Washington, DC
[quote="Zac"]I used to own a car care compnay and the best thing for metal is Nevr Dull. I've tried hundreds of different methods and this stuff removes anything.
edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too]
I'll second the Nevr Dull suggestion. I worked at a local knife store for a few years (R.I.P. CK&T) and every so often customers would bring in truly neglected blades and beg us to put them in working order. Nevr Dull and the Sharpmaker always did the trick.
edit: I should also add that 3M Adhesive and Wax remover works well too]
I'll second the Nevr Dull suggestion. I worked at a local knife store for a few years (R.I.P. CK&T) and every so often customers would bring in truly neglected blades and beg us to put them in working order. Nevr Dull and the Sharpmaker always did the trick.
Dish detergent & olive oil.
I often use my endura and now native to cut meat and veggies. So I never put anything toxic on mine. I just use dish detergent to clean, and lube with pure olive oil. I always prefered to use my endura to cut steak in resturants. The SE blade is superior to any steak knife they offer. Plus, I like the looks and comments when people see my knife. :D
karen
karen
:spyder: