I would start with the 30 degree slots on the brown rods, do about 4 passes on the front side then 1 pass on the back and repeat. In the future if you keep damaging the edge maybe a slightly thicker edge will suit your uses better, then I'd sharpen it on the 40 degree slots.
Got it!!! I will do so. Thanks so much and best
It would be wise to use a sharpie or white board marker to colour the edge so you can make sure you are actually sharpening to the apex. If you use the 30° slots you may well find you are just hitting the shoulder of the bevel. Personally I only use the 30° slots for reprofiling and use the 40° slots for sharpening which effectively creates a microbevel. I do 5 passes on the bevel side alternating with one on the other side with the blade held almost flat to the rod.
As Evil D said, the damage to your edge is fairly trivial and should be quick to repair.
I would start with the 30 degree slots on the brown rods, do about 4 passes on the front side then 1 pass on the back and repeat. In the future if you keep damaging the edge maybe a slightly thicker edge will suit your uses better, then I'd sharpen it on the 40 degree slots.
Got it!!! I will do so. Thanks so much and best
It would be wise to use a sharpie or white board marker to colour the edge so you can make sure you are actually sharpening to the apex. If you use the 30° slots you may well find you are just hitting the shoulder of the bevel. Personally I only use the 30° slots for reprofiling and use the 40° slots for sharpening which effectively creates a microbevel. I do 5 passes on the bevel side alternating with one on the other side with the blade held almost flat to the rod.
As Evil D said, the damage to your edge is fairly trivial and should be quick to repair.
Dan
The Sharpie trick is always good advice and I'd normally start with that but unless the stone that these serrations are ground on really changed a lot over time I don't think any of these are coming in at a steeper angle than 15 degrees, mine will micro bevel on the 15 slots so I assumed he could do the same.
I would start with the 30 degree slots on the brown rods, do about 4 passes on the front side then 1 pass on the back and repeat. In the future if you keep damaging the edge maybe a slightly thicker edge will suit your uses better, then I'd sharpen it on the 40 degree slots.
Got it!!! I will do so. Thanks so much and best
It would be wise to use a sharpie or white board marker to colour the edge so you can make sure you are actually sharpening to the apex. If you use the 30° slots you may well find you are just hitting the shoulder of the bevel. Personally I only use the 30° slots for reprofiling and use the 40° slots for sharpening which effectively creates a microbevel. I do 5 passes on the bevel side alternating with one on the other side with the blade held almost flat to the rod.
As Evil D said, the damage to your edge is fairly trivial and should be quick to repair.
Dan
The Sharpie trick is always good advice and I'd normally start with that but unless the stone that these serrations are ground on really changed a lot over time I don't think any of these are coming in at a steeper angle than 15 degrees, mine will micro bevel on the 15 slots so I assumed he could do the same.
The serrated blades exhibit a lot of variance. My SE K390 Endura needed hours of reprofiling on the CBN Sharpmaker rods to reach 15 degrees, while my SE VG-10 Endela was there right out of the box.
It would be wise to use a sharpie or white board marker to colour the edge so you can make sure you are actually sharpening to the apex. If you use the 30° slots you may well find you are just hitting the shoulder of the bevel. Personally I only use the 30° slots for reprofiling and use the 40° slots for sharpening which effectively creates a microbevel. I do 5 passes on the bevel side alternating with one on the other side with the blade held almost flat to the rod.
As Evil D said, the damage to your edge is fairly trivial and should be quick to repair.
Dan
The Sharpie trick is always good advice and I'd normally start with that but unless the stone that these serrations are ground on really changed a lot over time I don't think any of these are coming in at a steeper angle than 15 degrees, mine will micro bevel on the 15 slots so I assumed he could do the same.
The serrated blades exhibit a lot of variance. My SE K390 Endura needed hours of reprofiling on the CBN Sharpmaker rods to reach 15 degrees, while my SE VG-10 Endela was there right out of the box.
Yeah I would live with patterns that I like less (spikey ones) if we could just get consistent angles. I'd be happy if every edge could be sharpened on the 15 degree slots right out of the box so there's no need for heavy reprofiling. I think this would also mean blade grinds would need to be thinner so I'm not sure if they can do it for every knife. My Military 2 and Chief both look to have been ground on the same wheel and both came from Golden but the Military 2 hits the shoulder of the serrations on the 15 slots while the Chief micro bevels on the 15 slots. The Chief is thinner in the blade grind which is the only thing I can think of that might cause this, and my Native Salt does the same thing so it's consistent with the Chief.
This is a photo of Chap's edge after a little sharpmaking (grey rods) at 30°
It seems that the chips are vanishing with this kind of sharpening, surely I need to go on.
Maybe 30° are right because I see both the "edges of the edge" are worked...but I'm not sure
With this knife in particular you have a choice of which angle slot you want to use, because the angle of the serrations is lower than both, which was why I suggested starting with the 30 degree slots because you're actually making the edge thicker and more durable than it was from the factory and if you still get chipping then you can go a step further and sharpen on the 40 slots. On other knives you may not have a choice but to start on the 40 slots because the serrations are ground steeper than 15 degrees but less than 20 degrees. You can reprofile the entire serration grind by going to the 30 slots but it's time consuming and you really need CBN or diamond rods to do it right.
You can reprofile the entire serration grind by going to the 30 slots but it's time consuming and you really need CBN or diamond rods to do it right.
I have the CBN...do you suggest me to go on reprofiling? Maybe this way I strengthen my edge, that chipped so easily.
They'll speed up the process, just use a very gentle touch, not much pressure. Then move to the brown rods.
Got it! So I'm going with CBN.
Only question is: When I will know to stop CBN and go on with brown ones?
Thanks indeed David
Not to sound sarcastic but when you don't see chips anymore
Keep an eye on the edge as you go and take it slow, and don't he afraid to color the bevel with a Sharpie any time you want to see progress a little better.
You can reprofile the entire serration grind by going to the 30 slots but it's time consuming and you really need CBN or diamond rods to do it right.
I have the CBN...do you suggest me to go on reprofiling? Maybe this way I strengthen my edge, that chipped so easily.
They'll speed up the process, just use a very gentle touch, not much pressure. Then move to the brown rods.
Got it! So I'm going with CBN.
Only question is: When I will know to stop CBN and go on with brown ones?
Thanks indeed David
When the scratch pattern from the CBN rods covers all the scallops from the shoulder down to the edge, then it’s a good time to switch to the brown rods to refine that scratch pattern.
When the scratch pattern from the CBN rods covers all the scallops from the shoulder down to the edge, then it’s a good time to switch to the brown rods to refine that scratch pattern.
Yes, I see: all the shoulder go down with CBN and then brown to refine Thanks!
Any tips for getting SE to that factory level of sharpness? Have an older Salt 2 that has been sharpened many times at 40 on the Sharpmaker. I usually do 5 passes on serration side/1 pass on the other side and alternate direction (pulling toward/pushing away as I go down the SM rod). It will slice paper but the difference is noticeable with it vs a new Pacific Salt 2 I just got.
Any tips for getting SE to that factory level of sharpness? Have an older Salt 2 that has been sharpened many times at 40 on the Sharpmaker. I usually do 5 passes on serration side/1 pass on the other side and alternate direction (pulling toward/pushing away as I go down the SM rod). It will slice paper but the difference is noticeable with it vs a new Pacific Salt 2 I just got.
I assume you are aware of the "SE sharpening thread" David linked in the very first post here?
If not, here viewtopic.php?p=1349519#p1349519 is that link again.
I can get my SE folders pretty sharp using the Sharpmaker, but never checked how sharp compared to factory SE edges.
Generally, since you have sharpened your Salt 2 a lot and by that it might have become thicker behind the edge already, it might be a good idea to fully reprofile it on the 30 degree setting?(You´d want diamond or CBN rods for that though)
Top three going by pocket-time (update April 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10), Chaparral SE (CTS XHP)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Endela SE (K390)
Any tips for getting SE to that factory level of sharpness? Have an older Salt 2 that has been sharpened many times at 40 on the Sharpmaker. I usually do 5 passes on serration side/1 pass on the other side and alternate direction (pulling toward/pushing away as I go down the SM rod). It will slice paper but the difference is noticeable with it vs a new Pacific Salt 2 I just got.
I assume you are aware of the "SE sharpening thread" David linked in the very first post here?
If not, here viewtopic.php?p=1349519#p1349519 is that link again.
I can get my SE folders pretty sharp using the Sharpmaker, but never checked how sharp compared to factory SE edges.
Generally, since you have sharpened your Salt 2 a lot and by that it might have become thicker behind the edge already, it might be a good idea to fully reprofile it on the 30 degree setting?(You´d want diamond or CBN rods for that though)
Thanks for the link. Had seen the thread before but took the time today to read through the entire thing. I used the diamond rods at 30 but didn't fully reprofile as there was still some sharpie remaining in the small scallops, but I think it still helped to knock down the shoulders as mentioned in the sharpening thread. Then finished with the white rods at 40 but modified my technique based on the tips in the thread while checking for the burr with a flashlight. It cuts receipt paper now so pretty satisfied! Pic for the thread:
Any tips for getting SE to that factory level of sharpness? Have an older Salt 2 that has been sharpened many times at 40 on the Sharpmaker. I usually do 5 passes on serration side/1 pass on the other side and alternate direction (pulling toward/pushing away as I go down the SM rod). It will slice paper but the difference is noticeable with it vs a new Pacific Salt 2 I just got.
I assume you are aware of the "SE sharpening thread" David linked in the very first post here?
If not, here viewtopic.php?p=1349519#p1349519 is that link again.
I can get my SE folders pretty sharp using the Sharpmaker, but never checked how sharp compared to factory SE edges.
Generally, since you have sharpened your Salt 2 a lot and by that it might have become thicker behind the edge already, it might be a good idea to fully reprofile it on the 30 degree setting?(You´d want diamond or CBN rods for that though)
Thanks for the link. Had seen the thread before but took the time today to read through the entire thing. I used the diamond rods at 30 but didn't fully reprofile as there was still some sharpie remaining in the small scallops, but I think it still helped to knock down the shoulders as mentioned in the sharpening thread. Then finished with the white rods at 40 but modified my technique based on the tips in the thread while checking for the burr with a flashlight. It cuts receipt paper now so pretty satisfied! Pic for the thread:
That looks good. By stopping when you did you now have a 15 degree bevel with a 20 degree microbevel in the scallops. You can always go back and complete the reprofile if you become interested in knowing how it’ll perform with 15 degrees to the very edge. Hint: better.
Increasingly I’ve taken to carrying a SE Spyderco locking folder plus a SAK for plain edge and “other tool” duties. Cargo pants make this a reasonable option and I carry a 100mm Knipex adjustable pliers in rear pocket, too.
We may be an ocean apart, but we think exactly the same.
Knipex has been sitting at home lately, but definitely a good tool. Can't dress on cargo pants on my job, have to find those "undercover" cargo pants that look like jeans
Easy 
