SE performance is more than simply teeth vs no teeth.

[PeaceInOurTime]

Modded a lil temp 3 the other day, thought you serration afi people would like to see

Did you grind these free-hand? Assuming with a Dremel? They look good!

[Wartstein]

...
I then colored the edge with a Sharpie, tried the 20 degree rods again, and saw that no color had been removed from the edge. Practicing further through trial and error, I discovered that in order to hit the edge I had to mimic the angle of the opposing rod, and hold that angle while sharpening the Spyderedge. ...

Not sure I understand, so for clarification:

- You´re saying that the edge angle on the scalloped side of your Lil Temp SE is more obtuse than 20 degrees? So really not acute?
- And actually a lot more obtuse since you have to "mimic the angle of the opposing rod" (which supposedly is also set in the 20 degree slot)?

[Aladinsane]

...
I then colored the edge with a Sharpie, tried the 20 degree rods again, and saw that no color had been removed from the edge. Practicing further through trial and error, I discovered that in order to hit the edge I had to mimic the angle of the opposing rod, and hold that angle while sharpening the Spyderedge. ...

Not sure I understand, so for clarification:

- You´re saying that the edge angle on the scalloped side of your Lil Temp SE is more obtuse than 20 degrees? So really not acute?
- And actually a lot more obtuse since you have to "mimic the angle of the opposing rod" (which supposedly is also set in the 20 degree slot)?

Yes. That’s what I’m finding. Both rods are 20 degrees. And that seems correct that the scalloped side is more obtuse than 20 degrees. I myself find it hard to believe!! I tried to take a photo FWIW. I’m at work and don’t have any good photo equipment.

IDK if you can see where the marker wore off, just a thin line.

[Drubieg]

Modded a lil temp 3 the other day, thought you serration afi people would like to see

Did you grind these free-hand? Assuming with a Dremel? They look good!

Yessir freehand. I spaced them about 1/4” apart to land the middle of the dremel wheel on. Thanks!

[Bill1170]

I posted this in a Lil' Temperance thread, but thought this might be a better place?

Here’s something I discovered while sharpening my LT3LW SE. I started on the Sharpmaker with the 15 degree rods, but they were clearly only hitting the shoulder of the bevel. I then switched to the 20 degree rods, and that seemed to be ok, until I found that my Leafjumper SE was much sharper.
I then colored the edge with a Sharpie, tried the 20 degree rods again, and saw that no color had been removed from the edge. Practicing further through trial and error, I discovered that in order to hit the edge I had to mimic the angle of the opposing rod, and hold that angle while sharpening the Spyderedge. After a few passes, the serrations were nice and sharp.
I was surprised at the extreme angle that I had to hold the blade in order to get the edge to contact the rods.
What does everyone else set the angle on if you have a LTLW SE and a Sharpmaker?
Is the angle so steep due to the thickness of the bladestock, or am I doing something wrong?

To really get the performance from your knife you need to reprofile the serrations on the Sharpmaker. I like 15 degrees on the scallop side and nearly flat on the back (maybe 3 degrees off the flat back, I do this by eye). You’ll want the diamond or CBN rods for this, and patience, it’ll take time. I think the CBN rods are more durable, but use a light touch with either and let the abrasive do the work. I push and pull the blade to get more even coverage on the scallops, being careful not to let the tip slip off and crash into the rod. I use the flat of the rod to reprofile the PE tip section.

You could do a 20 degree microbevel for quick Sharpmaker touchups, but I keep my SE knives at 15 degrees right to the apex. Use a loupe and/or Sharpie to gauge your progress. It’s worth it!

[Aladinsane]

I posted this in a Lil' Temperance thread, but thought this might be a better place?

Here’s something I discovered while sharpening my LT3LW SE. I started on the Sharpmaker with the 15 degree rods, but they were clearly only hitting the shoulder of the bevel. I then switched to the 20 degree rods, and that seemed to be ok, until I found that my Leafjumper SE was much sharper.
I then colored the edge with a Sharpie, tried the 20 degree rods again, and saw that no color had been removed from the edge. Practicing further through trial and error, I discovered that in order to hit the edge I had to mimic the angle of the opposing rod, and hold that angle while sharpening the Spyderedge. After a few passes, the serrations were nice and sharp.
I was surprised at the extreme angle that I had to hold the blade in order to get the edge to contact the rods.
What does everyone else set the angle on if you have a LTLW SE and a Sharpmaker?
Is the angle so steep due to the thickness of the bladestock, or am I doing something wrong?

To really get the performance from your knife you need to reprofile the serrations on the Sharpmaker. I like 15 degrees on the scallop side and nearly flat on the back (maybe 3 degrees off the flat back, I do this by eye). You’ll want the diamond or CBN rods for this, and patience, it’ll take time. I think the CBN rods are more durable, but use a light touch with either and let the abrasive do the work. I push and pull the blade to get more even coverage on the scallops, being careful not to let the tip slip off and crash into the rod. I use the flat of the rod to reprofile the PE tip section.

You could do a 20 degree microbevel for quick Sharpmaker touchups, but I keep my SE knives at 15 degrees right to the apex. Use a loupe and/or Sharpie to gauge your progress. It’s worth it!

Wow! Yes, that would take time and A LOT of steel removal!! It also terrifies me a bit because I wouldn’t want to inadvertently ruin the blade!

I agree completely that a steeper angle would increase performance, you are correct.

Since I don’t have the confidence to radically reprofile the edge, I think that:

Plan A is to basically leave it like it is as I’ve gotten decent results so far
Or
Plan B to steepen the angle some, but probably not even to 20 degrees.

[Wartstein]

Yes. That’s what I’m finding. Both rods are 20 degrees. And that seems correct that the scalloped side is more obtuse than 20 degrees. I myself find it hard to believe!! I tried to take a photo FWIW. I’m at work and don’t have any good photo equipment.IMG_1374.jpeg
IDK if you can see where the marker wore off, just a thin line.

You have the rod set a 20 degrees, but actually do not keep the blade vertical but tilt it 20 degrees to the opposite side in order to make the rod actually hit the bevel?!

Wow, that´s really NOT an acute (chisel) grind angle then...
Strange. I could sharpen all of my SE Spydies out of the box with the 20 degree setting (and holding the blade vertical of course), some even on the 15....

[Wartstein]

Wow! Yes, that would take time and A LOT of steel removal!! It also terrifies me a bit because I wouldn’t want to inadvertently ruin the blade!

I agree completely that a steeper angle would increase performance, you are correct.

Since I don’t have the confidence to radically reprofile the edge, I think that:

Plan A is to basically leave it like it is as I’ve gotten decent results so far
Or
Plan B to steepen the angle some, but probably not even to 20 degrees.

Well, should you decide to reprofile your SE Spydie:
Keep in mind, you don´t have to do it all at once.

On my Pac Salt 1 SE for example (it came closer to 20 than to 15 degrees on the scalloped side) I just worked a bit on reprofiling with my CBN rod whenever I felt like it, but not with the goal to finish the job in one go.
Eventually I got it to 15 degrees, but in the time period when the knife was not there yet it still of course was perfectly usable and functional

[Aladinsane]

Yes. That’s what I’m finding. Both rods are 20 degrees. And that seems correct that the scalloped side is more obtuse than 20 degrees. I myself find it hard to believe!! I tried to take a photo FWIW. I’m at work and don’t have any good photo equipment.IMG_1374.jpeg
IDK if you can see where the marker wore off, just a thin line.

You have the rod set a 20 degrees, but actually do not keep the blade vertical but tilt it 20 degrees to the opposite side and THAT´S how little the rod still hits the bevel?

You are correct in the method I am using to get the rod to hit the bevel! I was shocked and amazed when I discovered this, and was afraid I was doing something wrong! I have gotten a decent edge on it now, so I suppose that’s just how it is!

IDK if this is common with the LTLW because it is so thick? I posted in a LTLW thread also.

It’s not a big deal, I just want to be sure I don’t mess up my blade!

[Aladinsane]

Wow! Yes, that would take time and A LOT of steel removal!! It also terrifies me a bit because I wouldn’t want to inadvertently ruin the blade!

I agree completely that a steeper angle would increase performance, you are correct.

Since I don’t have the confidence to radically reprofile the edge, I think that:

Plan A is to basically leave it like it is as I’ve gotten decent results so far
Or
Plan B to steepen the angle some, but probably not even to 20 degrees.

Well, should you decide to reprofile your SE Spydie:
Keep in mind, you don´t have to do it all at once.

On my Pac Salt 1 SE for example (it came closer to 20 than to 15 degrees on the scalloped side) I just worked a bit on reprofiling with my CBN rod whenever I felt like it, but not with the goal to finish the job in one go.
Eventually I got it to 15 degrees, but in the time period when the knife was not there yet it still of course was perfectly usable and functional

Thank you! I’m not in a rush to reprofile since, as your knife was, this one is perfectly functional and useable. As long as I’m not doing anything detrimental I think I can live with it while I continue to learn more.

[Nemo3000]

Teeth are a game changer on the Chaparral. The small Chap' is not afraid to compete with the 15V M2 !

[cabfrank]

Wicked. I need one soon.

[Wartstein]

Wicked. I need one soon.

You do indeed!!

[Evil D]

This isn't directly related to serrations but since I mentioned this knife in a previous post in this thread I figured I'd give it a little
redemption.

I found two more of these ridiculous boxes so now I can play around with several knives with it.

I put a new bevel on Sargeant Peanut Butter today. I friggin love this 15v. The edge I put on was kinda mediocre but it zipped through cutting 4 panels off this crate. My previous issues with this knife were definitely due to a thicker factory edge bevel. It still doesn't cut quite as well as my SE Chief but I think that's mostly due to having thicker blade stock. At some point you just can't get around the fact that you're forcing a wedge shape through rigid material, and it's going to be harder to do the thicker the wedge is, regardless of what edge type it has.






At this point I am extremely curious how 15V would behave with serrations. Whatdya say @sal?

[Bill1170]

This isn't directly related to serrations but since I mentioned this knife in a previous post in this thread I figured I'd give it a little
redemption.

I found two more of these ridiculous boxes so now I can play around with several knives with it.

I put a new bevel on Sargeant Peanut Butter today. I friggin love this 15v. The edge I put on was kinda mediocre but it zipped through cutting 4 panels off this crate. My previous issues with this knife were definitely due to a thicker factory edge bevel. It still doesn't cut quite as well as my SE Chief but I think that's mostly due to having thicker blade stock. At some point you just can't get around the fact that you're forcing a wedge shape through rigid material, and it's going to be harder to do the thicker the wedge is, regardless of what edge type it has.






At this point I am extremely curious how 15V would behave with serrations. Whatdya say @sal?

Yes, those boxes are ridiculous! My first Delica 4 was saber ground. Later I got a FFG Delica. I was astonished at how much better the thinner blade went through cardboard. Geometry cuts, simple as that.

[R100]

Yes. That’s what I’m finding. Both rods are 20 degrees. And that seems correct that the scalloped side is more obtuse than 20 degrees. I myself find it hard to believe!! I tried to take a photo FWIW. I’m at work and don’t have any good photo equipment.IMG_1374.jpeg
IDK if you can see where the marker wore off, just a thin line.

You have the rod set a 20 degrees, but actually do not keep the blade vertical but tilt it 20 degrees to the opposite side and THAT´S how little the rod still hits the bevel?

You are correct in the method I am using to get the rod to hit the bevel! I was shocked and amazed when I discovered this, and was afraid I was doing something wrong! I have gotten a decent edge on it now, so I suppose that’s just how it is!

IDK if this is common with the LTLW because it is so thick? I posted in a LTLW thread also.

It’s not a big deal, I just want to be sure I don’t mess up my blade!

The Lil' Temp LW( and G10) is not actually thick behind the edge because the blade is so tall. The grind is certainly thinner and more acute than the Military family.

I reprofiled my LTLW SE to 15° and I sharpen it with a microbevel of 20°. It's a truly amazing cutter now. I used CBN rods in the Sharpmaker with very light pressure while keeping an eye on it to make sure it was even. It takes a while but is quite doable and well worth the effort.

Dan

[cabfrank]

I'm sure it's incredible reprofiled as you said. Honestly, it it a very capable slicer as is, and it feels close to indestructible.

[Jumpin'Spyder]

Hi,

I'm about to buy a Chaparral to EDC, I love this little guy...so I'm trying to decide if Plain or SE.
I've only a few serrated one from old time, like my first Syderco, the Cricket :-) but I seldom carrie it, don't know why BTW.
I know well that you guys here are very biased :-))) but you really think it could be better than the plain one?
And do you think that the Sharpmaker is right for sharpening its serrated edge?
Thanks

[Aladinsane]

@Jumpin’Spyder : SE Chaparral is incredible! Scary sharp right out of the box, and with a touch up on the Sharpmaker mine will split a hair. Build quality is excellent. Very highly recommended, especially in SE!! All SE knives should be like this one!

[Evil D]

Hi,

I'm about to buy a Chaparral to EDC, I love this little guy...so I'm trying to decide if Plain or SE.
I've only a few serrated one from old time, like my first Syderco, the Cricket :-) but I seldom carrie it, don't know why BTW.
I know well that you guys here are very biased :-))) but you really think it could be better than the plain one?
And do you think that the Sharpmaker is right for sharpening its serrated edge?
Thanks

Sharpmaker is absolutely the right tool for the job, and I think the SE Chaparral is a perfect knife to start with if you're not very experienced with sharpening serrations. Whether you like it or not I can't say, but I feel confident saying that it's one of the best SE knives to start with.