Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Added a link to this at the top of my stickied thread. The two threads really go hand in hand.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Thank you. Hopefully these two threads will continue to help make serrations more accessible for people new to them.
Once I got over being intimidated by the idea of sharpening them, I learned to love serrated edges.
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
That´s good! :)
Though I think Vivis thread should get an individual sticking too - either in the main forum, or in a possible sharpening sub forum
Both your SE threads where about equally (and VERY) helpful for me! Thanks once more! :)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Yeah, I don't make the stickies so it's the best I could do.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Evil D wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 1:58 am
Yeah, I don't make the stickies so it's the best I could do.
Sure, I know! Great that your thread became a sticky! :)
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Wartstein wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 2:06 amEvil D wrote: ↑Thu May 13, 2021 1:58 am
Yeah, I don't make the stickies so it's the best I could do.
Sure, I know! Great that your thread became a sticky! :)
I would personally make a sticky thread and title it something like "Spyderco Serrations Resources" and then link several threads in the first post. SE is almost a broad enough subject to warrant its own sub-forum.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Agreed!
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
For information sake my Tasman 2 was factory ground closer to 20 degrees. Using the 15 degree slots I was just hitting the shoulder of the edge bevel.
-Matt a.k.a. Lo_Que, loadedquestions135 I ❤ The P'KAL
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"The world of edges has a small doorway in, but opens into a cavern that is both wide and deep." -sal
"Ghost hunters scope the edge." -sal
- bbturbodad
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Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
I think pretty much all my SE blades with the exception of my black TiCN Pac Salt have been closer to 20°. I've reprofiled most of them to 15° or less and am now on my 3rd set of CBN rods and about done with a set of Gauntlet CBN rods too. I wish they were ground closer to 15° at the factory.
-Turbo
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
bbturbodad wrote: ↑Tue Jun 01, 2021 10:16 pmI think pretty much all my SE blades with the exception of my black TiCN Pac Salt have been closer to 20°. I've reprofiled most of them to 15° or less and am now on my 3rd set of CBN rods and about done with a set of Gauntlet CBN rods too. I wish they were ground closer to 15° at the factory.
Same here on all points. I've had a few that were closer to 30 (and my ARK is actually lower than 15 and micro bevels on the 30 slots) but most were closer to 20 degrees and needed a fairly heavy reprofile. It's an even bigger task with some older models that came extra thick. Even if they were only ground right at 15 degrees that would be great.
All SE all the time since 2017
~David
~David
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Evil D wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 2:25 ambbturbodad wrote: ↑Tue Jun 01, 2021 10:16 pmI think pretty much all my SE blades with the exception of my black TiCN Pac Salt have been closer to 20°. I've reprofiled most of them to 15° or less and am now on my 3rd set of CBN rods and about done with a set of Gauntlet CBN rods too. I wish they were ground closer to 15° at the factory.
Same here on all points. I've had a few that were closer to 30 (and my ARK is actually lower than 15 and micro bevels on the 30 slots) but most were closer to 20 degrees and needed a fairly heavy reprofile. It's an even bigger task with some older models that came extra thick. Even if they were only ground right at 15 degrees that would be great.
A bit of a riddle for me: I remember Vivi said (almost?) all of his Pac Salt 1 SE came with about 15 degrees.
The two I have / had (yellow and black handled) clearly very close to 20 degrees... I am still in the casual process of reprofiling my yellow Pac Salt 1 to 15 degrees. Not finished yet, just thinned out, but not reached the real apex.
Top three going by pocket-time (update March 24):
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
- EDC: Endura thin red line ffg combo edge (VG10); Wayne Goddard PE (4V), Endela SE (VG10)
-Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), and also Wayne Goddard PE (4V)
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
I've had a mix. Many of my Pacific 1's did come at 15 degrees, but all my 2's came at 20. I just reprofiled the first Pacific Salt 2 I bought to 15 degrees. The LC200N version is next up.
I've reprofiled 6 Pacific Salts and a Tasman Salt with my diamond rods and they still cut. I've also used the corners for sharpening recurves like my szabo folder.
I've reprofiled 6 Pacific Salts and a Tasman Salt with my diamond rods and they still cut. I've also used the corners for sharpening recurves like my szabo folder.
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Thanks for these tips!
Wish I had read this earlier, rather than learning from my own mistakes.
btw, LC200N Native Salt came with slightly more than 20 degrees (21-22, I suppose)
Wish I had read this earlier, rather than learning from my own mistakes.
btw, LC200N Native Salt came with slightly more than 20 degrees (21-22, I suppose)
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Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Hi All,
I have a couple of questions and clarifications about all of this.
I've decided to reprofile my SE Pacific Salt 2 in LC200N to 15°dps, using the 30°side of my Sharpmaker with the CBN rods. This seems to be the general recommendation here.
Starting out, the rods were hitting the top of the shoulders of the serrations. So, I'm not hitting the actual scallops at all. This tells me I'm essentially going to be grinding until I remove material from the shoulders where it's hitting now, then into the scallops, and eventually all the way to the apex; putting a completely new edge from shoulder to apex. Is that correct?
I'm asking because I've been doing this practically every day here and there. During commercials, I go put in 2-3 minutes on the reprofile; sometimes I may spend a full 15-20 minutes on it. But, I feel like I'm barely making any progress, even with the CBN rods. I have put several hundred swipes in (maybe 1000+), and am still only seeing the effects in the shoulders. I'm seeing little to no effect in the scallops.
So - am I doing this correctly, or am I missing something? Does it really take thousands of swipes to reprofile an SE blade? If so that's fine and I'll just stick with it. At my current rate (maybe 200-400 swipes per evening), it seems it could take at least a couple of weeks.
Last night I wrapped a bit of 320-grit sandpaper around the Sharpmaker rod to see if that might speed things up. I'm also guessing once I get into the scallops, maybe things will start moving a little faster?
But overall I just wanted to be sure I understand the process and am doing this correctly.
Thanks!
Jason
I have a couple of questions and clarifications about all of this.
I've decided to reprofile my SE Pacific Salt 2 in LC200N to 15°dps, using the 30°side of my Sharpmaker with the CBN rods. This seems to be the general recommendation here.
Starting out, the rods were hitting the top of the shoulders of the serrations. So, I'm not hitting the actual scallops at all. This tells me I'm essentially going to be grinding until I remove material from the shoulders where it's hitting now, then into the scallops, and eventually all the way to the apex; putting a completely new edge from shoulder to apex. Is that correct?
I'm asking because I've been doing this practically every day here and there. During commercials, I go put in 2-3 minutes on the reprofile; sometimes I may spend a full 15-20 minutes on it. But, I feel like I'm barely making any progress, even with the CBN rods. I have put several hundred swipes in (maybe 1000+), and am still only seeing the effects in the shoulders. I'm seeing little to no effect in the scallops.
So - am I doing this correctly, or am I missing something? Does it really take thousands of swipes to reprofile an SE blade? If so that's fine and I'll just stick with it. At my current rate (maybe 200-400 swipes per evening), it seems it could take at least a couple of weeks.
Last night I wrapped a bit of 320-grit sandpaper around the Sharpmaker rod to see if that might speed things up. I'm also guessing once I get into the scallops, maybe things will start moving a little faster?
But overall I just wanted to be sure I understand the process and am doing this correctly.
Thanks!
Jason
Jason
Current Rotation:
Pacific Salt 2 PE (H1)
Spydiechef
Stretch 2 (K390)
Chaparral LW
Dragonfly 2 Salt SE (Bonus 2nd blade!)
Current Rotation:
Pacific Salt 2 PE (H1)
Spydiechef
Stretch 2 (K390)
Chaparral LW
Dragonfly 2 Salt SE (Bonus 2nd blade!)
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
AWSOME! Thank you for this.
"Some call me...Tim?"
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Sounds like you're doing it the right way. You just have a lot of metal to be removed if you're going for the 15 degrees. It's going to take a long time if you're only doing it a few minutes at a time. You'll definitely need to dedicate a few hours to get there.
I might be wrong, but I think the CBN rods are more coarse than 320 grit. That actually could be slowing you down by wrapping the sandpaper around the rods.
I might be wrong, but I think the CBN rods are more coarse than 320 grit. That actually could be slowing you down by wrapping the sandpaper around the rods.
15 's in 10 different steels
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
1 - Bradford Guardian 3 / Vanadis 4E Wharnie
1 - Monterey Bay Knives Slayback Flipper / ZDP 189
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31/Macassar Ebony Inlays
1 - CRK Large Inkosi Insingo/ Black Micarta Inlays
1 - CRK Small Sebenza 31 Insingo/Magnacut
-Rick
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Jason Paul,
I reprofiled my Tasman Salt 2 SE to 15 degrees a while ago and ran into the same issue you did. I ended up wrapping my rods in 120 grit sandpaper, rotating it to new grit every 100 passes or so. If I remember correctly it took something like 8 or 9 hundred swipes on my shorter, arguably less wear resistant blade. My advice is to endure, and tell yourself that you’re building muscle memory :D Enjoy the process!
I reprofiled my Tasman Salt 2 SE to 15 degrees a while ago and ran into the same issue you did. I ended up wrapping my rods in 120 grit sandpaper, rotating it to new grit every 100 passes or so. If I remember correctly it took something like 8 or 9 hundred swipes on my shorter, arguably less wear resistant blade. My advice is to endure, and tell yourself that you’re building muscle memory :D Enjoy the process!
Tenacious G10 PE, Tasman Salt 2 PE, Tasman Salt 2 SE, Yojimbo 2, KJ Endura 4 D.P.S. 15 VG-10, LadyBug K390, TKJ Jester 20CV, UKPK Salt, Crucarta PM2, 204 Sharpmaker
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Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
OK, thanks for the help so far, sounds like I'm on the right track and should just keep grinding away.
About the 320-grit sandpaper; something I had read about the CBN rods made me think the 320-grit sandpaper was a little more coarse (but pretty close). But the other reason I used the sandpaper was to help preserve the corners of the CBN rods, just so I wouldn't be using them for the entire process.
Another issue I didn't mention is that the knife seems to have gone dull from this. I'm not sure why because I'm only hitting the shoulder, not the apex. At first I was also doing the single-swipe on the backside to remove the burr; and I'm wondering if this may have cause the dulling.
The other day I had the thought that if I'm only hitting the shoulder with the reprofile, I probably don't need to do the swipe on the backside. It makes sense that I don't need to start the backside swipes until I'm actually at or near the apex on the scalloped side. Given this, I'm wondering if doing the unnecessary swipes on the backside caused the dulling.
Any thoughts on this? Please correct me if I'm wrong since I don't think I've seen that mentioned before. But to me it seems the swipes on the backside aren't necessary until the regrind is at or near the apex.
Thanks!
Jason
About the 320-grit sandpaper; something I had read about the CBN rods made me think the 320-grit sandpaper was a little more coarse (but pretty close). But the other reason I used the sandpaper was to help preserve the corners of the CBN rods, just so I wouldn't be using them for the entire process.
Another issue I didn't mention is that the knife seems to have gone dull from this. I'm not sure why because I'm only hitting the shoulder, not the apex. At first I was also doing the single-swipe on the backside to remove the burr; and I'm wondering if this may have cause the dulling.
The other day I had the thought that if I'm only hitting the shoulder with the reprofile, I probably don't need to do the swipe on the backside. It makes sense that I don't need to start the backside swipes until I'm actually at or near the apex on the scalloped side. Given this, I'm wondering if doing the unnecessary swipes on the backside caused the dulling.
Any thoughts on this? Please correct me if I'm wrong since I don't think I've seen that mentioned before. But to me it seems the swipes on the backside aren't necessary until the regrind is at or near the apex.
Thanks!
Jason
Last edited by Jason Paul on Tue Jun 08, 2021 2:13 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Jason
Current Rotation:
Pacific Salt 2 PE (H1)
Spydiechef
Stretch 2 (K390)
Chaparral LW
Dragonfly 2 Salt SE (Bonus 2nd blade!)
Current Rotation:
Pacific Salt 2 PE (H1)
Spydiechef
Stretch 2 (K390)
Chaparral LW
Dragonfly 2 Salt SE (Bonus 2nd blade!)
- bbturbodad
- Member
- Posts: 1180
- Joined: Sun Mar 24, 2019 9:18 am
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Yes you are correct no need to hit the backside until you get to the apex. You probably now have a burr on the scalloped side of the blade. If you plan to use the knife before you finish reprofiling it you can knock the burr off with the 20 degree side of the Sharpmaker.Jason Paul wrote: ↑Tue Jun 08, 2021 11:04 amAnother issue I didn't mention is that the knife seems to have gone dull from this. I'm not sure why because I'm only hitting the shoulder, not the apex. At first I was also doing the single-swipe on the backside to remove the burr; and I'm wondering if this may have cause the dulling.
The other day I had the thought that if I'm only hitting the shoulder with the reprofile, I probably don't need to do the swipe on the backside. It makes sense that I don't need to start the backside swipes until I'm actually at or near the apex on the scalloped side. Given this, I'm wondering if doing the unnecessary swipes on the backside caused the dulling.
Any thoughts on this? Please correct me if I'm wrong since I don't think I've seen that mentioned before. But to me it seems the swipes on the backside aren't necessary until the regrind it at or near the apex.
Thanks!
Jason
-Turbo
Re: Compendium of tips for sharpening serrated knives
Honestly not an easy thread to work your way through but very rewarding, thanks for sharing. Anyone have experience with a eze-lap diamond rod?
MNOSD 0047 - mens sana in corpore sano -
Do more than is required of you . Patton
For man's only weapon is courage that flinches not from the gates of **** itself, and against such not even the legions of **** can stand. Robert E. Howard
Do more than is required of you . Patton
For man's only weapon is courage that flinches not from the gates of **** itself, and against such not even the legions of **** can stand. Robert E. Howard