I did about 30 "reckless abandon" style cuts through this heavy triple wall corrugated today and I'm happy to report the serrations didn't snag one bit and all the cuts were super clean. The grind geometry is definitely thinner than my 2009 SE Military 1, I think before I do anything major with this knife I need to measure the thickness at the tops of the serrations on both knives and see how they differ.
So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
I did about 30 "reckless abandon" style cuts through this heavy triple wall corrugated today and I'm happy to report the serrations didn't snag one bit and all the cuts were super clean. The grind geometry is definitely thinner than my 2009 SE Military 1, I think before I do anything major with this knife I need to measure the thickness at the tops of the serrations on both knives and see how they differ.
So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
Thank you for sharing. I've never had S30V in SE, so am curious to see how the serrated edge holds up over time, and if the edge is any more prone to chipping than SE in other (softer) steels.
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So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
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May I ask:
If your goal was to "keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can":
Why then 15 degrees on the back and not just removing the burr by putting the blade almost flat on the rod (which would mean an even steeper angle at the back and thus also incl. than with 15 degrees)?
/ The serrations look pretty nice btw!
Top three going by pocket-time (update October 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endela SE (VG10), Manix 2 LW (REX45)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1)
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So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
...
May I ask:
If your goal was to "keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can":
Why then 15 degrees on the back and not just removing the burr by putting the blade almost flat on the rod (which would mean an even steeper angle at the back and thus also incl. than with 15 degrees)?
/ The serrations look pretty nice btw!
Because they're ground just a bit steeper than 15 degrees, so when I try the 15 slots the rods hit the shoulder of the bevel. Kinda don't have a choice unless I reprofile it.
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So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
...
May I ask:
If your goal was to "keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can":
Why then 15 degrees on the back and not just removing the burr by putting the blade almost flat on the rod (which would mean an even steeper angle at the back and thus also incl. than with 15 degrees)?
/ The serrations look pretty nice btw!
Because they're ground just a bit steeper than 15 degrees, so when I try the 15 slots the rods hit the shoulder of the bevel. Kinda don't have a choice unless I reprofile it.
I think he meant why use 15 degrees on the back side of the blade. Meaning, normally we lay the back side of the blade (back side of the serrations) as flat as possible on the stones. I had the same question Gernot did. Did you mean you were using 15 degrees on the shoulder of the bevel and 20 on the apex?
- Jeff May your feet be warm and dry and your throat warm with whiskey. A knife in hand or in the sock band.
MNOSD Member #0005
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So far I've only sharpened it on the brown rods, 20 degree slot on the front and 15 degree slot on the back, trying to split the difference and keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can. No heavy reprofiling yet, just more or less a touch up from the factory edge.
...
May I ask:
If your goal was to "keep the inclusive edge as thin as I can":
Why then 15 degrees on the back and not just removing the burr by putting the blade almost flat on the rod (which would mean an even steeper angle at the back and thus also incl. than with 15 degrees)?
/ The serrations look pretty nice btw!
Because they're ground just a bit steeper than 15 degrees, so when I try the 15 slots the rods hit the shoulder of the bevel. Kinda don't have a choice unless I reprofile it.
I think he meant why use 15 degrees on the back side of the blade. Meaning, normally we lay the back side of the blade (back side of the serrations) as flat as possible on the stones. I had the same question Gernot did. Did you mean you were using 15 degrees on the shoulder of the bevel and 20 on the apex?
Oh well yeah I guess I could do that, I do it on my Ayoob and Stretch. I have my rods both on the far ends of my Sharpmaker base, so one side is at 40 and the other is at 30.
Last edited by Wartstein on Wed Dec 18, 2024 10:41 am, edited 1 time in total.
Top three going by pocket-time (update October 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endela SE (VG10), Manix 2 LW (REX45)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1)
I think he meant why use 15 degrees on the back side of the blade. Meaning, normally we lay the back side of the blade (back side of the serrations) as flat as possible on the stones. I had the same question Gernot did. Did you mean you were using 15 degrees on the shoulder of the bevel and 20 on the apex?
Yes, that´s what I meant indeed
Top three going by pocket-time (update October 25):
- EDC: Endela SE (K390). Endela SE (VG10), Manix 2 LW (REX45)
- Mountains/outdoors: Pac.Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Salt 2 SE (LC200N), Pac.Salt 1 SE (H1)
My two dolled up Millie 2 fully serrated workers. I posted these on the 2024 Knife of the year thread but should add them here as well. So easily customizable as well as high performing.
Those are amazing. I was trying to decide which I liked better in the other thread. Both.
Thanks Cabfrank. They cut so well it’s amazing. I am not sure which I like better. Have to say I am very pleased with Sharp Dresses Knives scales. Good guy to work with as well. His communication was good as well as the product. I had never used his work before this.
I haven't tried a Military 2 yet. Been perfectly content on the original Militarys I have, despite that I generally prefer the comp lock over a liner, but it's so easy to find and operate the liner on the original that it's like second nature, even with gloves.
That said, now with this BBB variant, I figured it was finally time to grab an M2. Let's see
I haven't tried a Military 2 yet. Been perfectly content on the original Militarys I have, despite that I generally prefer the comp lock over a liner, but it's so easy to find and operate the liner on the original that it's like second nature, even with gloves.
That said, now with this BBB variant, I figured it was finally time to grab an M2. Let's see
The Military 2 in general would have been a hard sell for me if steel variants didn't exist or if for some reason they decided to never make it in anything but S30V. I already have some of the best versions of the Military 1 so why bother right? But I think once you get it in your hand and use it a whole you'll see it really is an improvement overall, and that's coming from a Military 1 loyalist.
In other words, if they also released a 15V Military 1 alongside the Military 2, and I could only buy one of them, I'd buy the 2. Of course I'd absolutely get both though lol.
