senorsquare,
Thanks for the amusing and educational posts!
About how much force did you apply before it snapped? Anything you could think to compare it to?
Are you going to take the tang out now and see if it will fit in a regular Manix handle? :D
Found a task that S110V is NOT good for
It does if they still honor a lifetime warranty on their blades. If he's confident in giving that warranty on that steel, I wouldn't hesitate to use it to split wood.Donut wrote:Wow, my condolences!
I was wondering based on Cliff's comments the other day... does it make no sense to get a Strider in S110V?
As for this Manix, first I wouldn't have opted to use ANY Manix for this job regardless of the steel. There's not much meat around the pivot as it is, and it's a 3mm blade. I wouldn't hesitate to use my Wildsteer though, I'd pry that stump apart with it to get your blade out.
The other thing is, this should also put to rest any doubt on the strength of the FRN handle. I really wouldn't expect anything less from the BD1 version either. Regardless of steel, the design of the knife is just not up to the task of prying anything.
~David
This is why my drinking knife is the Zwear SnG :D
Click here to zoom: Under the Microscope
Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
Manix2, Elmax MT13, M4 Manix2, ZDP Caly Jr, SB Caly3.5, Cruwear MT12, XHP MT16, South Fork, SB Caly3, 20CP Para2, Military Left Hand, Perrin PPT, Squeak, Manix 83mm, Swick3, Lil' Temperance, VG10 Jester, Dfly2 Salt, Tasman Salt
Chris
-
senorsquare
- Member
- Posts: 1531
- Joined: Fri Nov 02, 2012 8:34 am
- Location: Lotta Rock, AR
I honestly don't remember how hard I was pushing, but I was trying to separate wood that didn't come apart the first time I hit it with the axe. It was no small amount of force and the manix did not give up easily.Coulro wrote:About how much force did you apply before it snapped? Anything you could think to compare it to?
I had to break the handle to get at the pivot area and I can vouch that these FRN handles are pretty dang strong. I am a fairly large man and it took quite a bit of effort to get the handle apart. Again, it did not give up easily. If anyone has doubts about the FRN Manix being flimsy you can rest assured that it is not. The FRN is strong and there is a reinforcing plate around the pivot that you can see in the pic below that adds a good bit of strength. Overall I have to give kudos to spyderco for a design that's really surprisingly tough for such a lightweight knife. Apart from random acts of stupidity this knife should be able to handle anything you throw at it.Evil D wrote:The other thing is, this should also put to rest any doubt on the strength of the FRN handle. I really wouldn't expect anything less from the BD1 version either. Regardless of steel, the design of the knife is just not up to the task of prying anything.
I think it may have been the reinforcing plate that created the stress point where the blade failed, but you guys can look at the photos and judge for yourself. There may appear to be metal shavings on the tang, but that's just carpet lint from my truck.
Untitled by senorsquare, on Flickr
Untitled by senorsquare, on Flickr
Untitled by senorsquare, on Flickr
Untitled by senorsquare, on FlickrRight through the hole and on to the radius of the corner. It does kind of look like the reinforcing plate acted as a fulcrum. It looks like you put a sharpening notch on it, but it did not fail through the notch and the spyderhole. Very interesting! Thanks for sacrificing your blade on the altar of science!
senorsquare wrote:I honestly don't remember how hard I was pushing, but I was trying to separate wood that didn't come apart the first time I hit it with the axe. It was no small amount of force and the manix did not give up easily.
I had to break the handle to get at the pivot area and I can vouch that these FRN handles are pretty dang strong. I am a fairly large man and it took quite a bit of effort to get the handle apart. Again, it did not give up easily. If anyone has doubts about the FRN Manix being flimsy you can rest assured that it is not. The FRN is strong and there is a reinforcing plate around the pivot that you can see in the pic below that adds a good bit of strength. Overall I have to give kudos to spyderco for a design that's really surprisingly tough for such a lightweight knife. Apart from random acts of stupidity this knife should be able to handle anything you throw at it.
I think it may have been the reinforcing plate that created the stress point where the blade failed, but you guys can look at the photos and judge for yourself. There may appear to be metal shavings on the tang, but that's just carpet lint from my truck.
I am sure it took quite a bit of force to break it, but the good thing is the handles held up and didn't break apart before the blade snapped, and that's what is supposed to happen....
Looks like the HT is excellent as it snapped clean and I don't see any of the grain so that's good.
All positive on Spyderco's part. :)
My condolences. When I read "firewood" I knew where this was going. Maybe they will make another one for you.
If anything, it is the small holes in the blade and/or the notch at the base of the lock recess that acted as a stress concentration.
I have seen 1095 blades hammered through a log that bent in the middle during the process, then straightened when removed. That is the advantage of carbon steel over stainless steel. At the point where the stress concentration would initiate a fracture in stainless steel, the carbon steel just yields a little bit and stays together.
If anything, it is the small holes in the blade and/or the notch at the base of the lock recess that acted as a stress concentration.
I have seen 1095 blades hammered through a log that bent in the middle during the process, then straightened when removed. That is the advantage of carbon steel over stainless steel. At the point where the stress concentration would initiate a fracture in stainless steel, the carbon steel just yields a little bit and stays together.
bdblue wrote:My condolences. When I read "firewood" I knew where this was going. Maybe they will make another one for you.
If anything, it is the small holes in the blade and/or the notch at the base of the lock recess that acted as a stress concentration.
I have seen 1095 blades hammered through a log that bent in the middle during the process, then straightened when removed. That is the advantage of carbon steel over stainless steel. At the point where the stress concentration would initiate a fracture in stainless steel, the carbon steel just yields a little bit and stays together.
1095 at 62-63 RC isn't going to bend very much before it snaps..... Given the same geometry...
Now yeah at 55-59 RC with a spring temper yeah it will bend more before it breaks.... But it will still break, it will just take longer....
1095 with a Differential Heat Treatment like the ABS guys do it will bend a lot more, but the edge will crack because it's a lot harder than the spine...
Ouch! At least it was just a $100 knife instead of say, a PM2 in CF / CPM 154 clad S90V @ $400 or more :) . I'm glad you didn't have any small sharp pieces come flying at you, my fear when applying stress to a sharp blade.
I guess that's why ESEE's knives tend to be 1095, hardened at 55-59, since they are targeted as survival type knives. Plus they have stated they prefer a steel that is *not* too hard to be able to sharpen it on whatever rock you may find - fits their market (and I have dozens of ESEE's too, they just fit a different niche for me). That's not saying their 1095 knives can't be broken also, I've seen some that were broken while trying to baton firewood - hit a knot or the grain twisted the knife or whatever.
I just received my 2nd S110V Manix in the mail yesterday. While I won't try to *twist* or pry too hard with them, I will use them to cut shavings off for fire prep, they have worked well for me in that regard so far.
I guess that's why ESEE's knives tend to be 1095, hardened at 55-59, since they are targeted as survival type knives. Plus they have stated they prefer a steel that is *not* too hard to be able to sharpen it on whatever rock you may find - fits their market (and I have dozens of ESEE's too, they just fit a different niche for me). That's not saying their 1095 knives can't be broken also, I've seen some that were broken while trying to baton firewood - hit a knot or the grain twisted the knife or whatever.
I just received my 2nd S110V Manix in the mail yesterday. While I won't try to *twist* or pry too hard with them, I will use them to cut shavings off for fire prep, they have worked well for me in that regard so far.
Which Knife, A or B? get Both! (and C, D and E) :)
-
WorkingEdge
- Member
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Sun Apr 14, 2013 1:35 am
-
SolidState
- Member
- Posts: 1760
- Joined: Fri Jan 29, 2010 1:37 pm
- Location: Oregon
-
Fresh Eddie Fresh
- Member
- Posts: 414
- Joined: Wed Apr 10, 2013 7:50 am
Even sadder when you see the date stamp on the blade... just a baby! I'm sorry your knife got ruined, but I am glad it is replaceable, and no one got hurt.
The last thing I used S110V for was scraping my resident parking permit sticker out of the bottom corner of my car's back window. Spyderco Forum knife seemed like a good choice! :)
The last thing I used S110V for was scraping my resident parking permit sticker out of the bottom corner of my car's back window. Spyderco Forum knife seemed like a good choice! :)
