Curious What Fellow Spydie Fans Have Tastes In Guns/ Carry
Pistols: Glock 22, 26 gen 3. Browning buckmark stainless. Smith and wesson model 13 .357 mag wheel gun
Rifles: Ruger 10/22 volks trigger GM Barrel. Rem 597 marlin 980v marlin 982 Ruger96 mag winchester 94 30-30win Ruger mini 14 ranch stainless
Shotguns:12ga winchester ranger deluxe 26" winchoke,12ga winchester defender
I had more but had to sell some I regret it now
Rifles: Ruger 10/22 volks trigger GM Barrel. Rem 597 marlin 980v marlin 982 Ruger96 mag winchester 94 30-30win Ruger mini 14 ranch stainless
Shotguns:12ga winchester ranger deluxe 26" winchoke,12ga winchester defender
I had more but had to sell some I regret it now
Keep'em sharp :spyder: 9 Enduras, 4 Manix, Manix XL DLC, 3 Delicas, 5 Ladybug, 2 Manbug, 4 Dragonfly, Pingo, Cat, 3 Salt1, Pacific salt, Tasman, 3 stretch, 2 Tenacious, Resiliance, Robyn2 G10, 2byrd hawkbill, 4Para2, 2Military, native5 frn, Bradley folder, SpyDK, Kiwi, MT19, salt saver, Street bowie, Roadie,Squeak, 5 UKPK, k05 SE, k04 SE & PE
- xceptnl
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- Location: Tobacco Country, Virginia
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I truly am less concerned with DI vs. Piston, thought I realize it effects cost. If money was not a factor I would likely be looking to LMT or similar. Being the real world though I am trying to save some money, but not to the point of buying individual parts and trying to piece together my own franken AR. The 5.56 vs 7.62 has been much more of a battle being waged in my mind. I see the obvious advantage to the smaller NATO round, but the .30 caliber seems like it will better suit my overall needs for this gun. Weight really doesn't bother me so I am not looking for some skinny barrel profile, yet I don't need one of the heavy varmint barrels found on some. Thank you for the input RWB!Rwb1500 wrote:How hard (or soft) do you want to hit your wallet?
The LWRC R.E.P.R. is an incredibly piece of metal, and the Knight's Armament SR 25 is one of the original and arguably best 7.62 rifles out there, but you'll pay handsomely for either, much more so for the SR25.
I really like the Ruger piston guns, most of my experience is with the 556 though. You really couldn't go wrong with the Smith or the Rock River either though. Are you set on direct impingement or are you looking for a piston driven gun?
If a piston is what you seek the LWRC is friggin awesome, but the Ruger is a bit more cost effective.
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
I have a DPMS AR10T and love it! The only thing is the gun is heavy!!! The increase in power is worth it though. I show up at the range and people just think,"nice AR". Then on the first trigger pull they immediately turn their heads and when I'm done shooting they ask,"What is that thing?" Don't have any experience with any other AR10's, but have a RR AR15, and S&W AR15 Sport! Sold my Bushmaster, but liked it! :)xceptnl wrote:Any opinion and / or experience with the Ruger 762? I have always wanted an AR-10 platform, but never really narrowed down my choices. I have shot Bushmaster, RRA and S&W AR platforms in the past. I am partial to the feel of the RRA, but am not sure about their 7.62x51 platforms. All (constructive and related) input is appreciated.
The cylinder on 38 Specials should be shorter than 357's. That's so you cannot chamber a 357 in a 38 Special because the round will protrude from the shorter cylinder, preventing you from closing the cylinder! I have a S&W60 in 357 just so I can shoot both, but you cannot do the same with a gun manufactured in 38Special only. Hope this helps! :)Gunslinger wrote:Question to you revolver guys, Is S&W J frame .357 cylinder the same size and the .38 cylinder?
- The Deacon
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- Location: Upstate SC, USA
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Not exactly true. The chambers are on a .38 are shorter, but that does not necessarily mean the cylinder will be shorter. Often it just means that the "unrifled barrel" portion of the cylinder between the end of the chamber and the front face of the cylinder is a bit longer on the .38. Which is not to say it would be safe to rebore a .38 Spl. S&W J frame cylinder to take .357 Magnums, or that a .357 cylinder could be used in a J frame intended for .38. Not to mention that, unlike dropping a new barrel into most autos, unless a revolver comes from the factory with 2 cylinders, replacing the cylinder is not a DIY project for the average gun owner.eric m. wrote:The cylinder on 38 Specials should be shorter than 357's. That's so you cannot chamber a 357 in a 38 Special because the round will protrude from the shorter cylinder, preventing you from closing the cylinder! I have a S&W60 in 357 just so I can shoot both, but you cannot do the same with a gun manufactured in 38Special only. Hope this helps! :)
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- The Deacon
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- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
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And, speaking of S&W J Frame .38's, picked this one up two weeks back. It's a mid 70's production square butt Chiefs Special and, IMHO, in excellent condition for its age.
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The factory grips were too small for me, so I replaced them with a Hogue One Piece Goncalo Alves grip this week. The Hogue grip feels great, but I think I'll modify it a bit in the future. IMHO, backstrap end of the butt doesn't need to be as long, or as fat, as it is so I'm thinking of rounding it off some. Holster is a Bianchi Covert Option IWB. Took me half dozen tries to find it, but it's comfy, the gun goes in and comes out easily, and it's easy to take off if the need arises.
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The factory grips were too small for me, so I replaced them with a Hogue One Piece Goncalo Alves grip this week. The Hogue grip feels great, but I think I'll modify it a bit in the future. IMHO, backstrap end of the butt doesn't need to be as long, or as fat, as it is so I'm thinking of rounding it off some. Holster is a Bianchi Covert Option IWB. Took me half dozen tries to find it, but it's comfy, the gun goes in and comes out easily, and it's easy to take off if the need arises.
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Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
- Officer Gigglez
- Member
- Posts: 801
- Joined: Wed Nov 13, 2013 5:22 pm
- Location: Originally out of Arizona, currently live in Missouri.
Absolutely beautiful wheel gun sir.The Deacon wrote:And, speaking of S&W J Frame .38's, picked this one up two weeks back. It's a mid 70's production square butt Chiefs Special and, IMHO, in excellent condition for its age.
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The factory grips were too small for me, so I replaced them with a Hogue One Piece Goncalo Alves grip this week. The Hogue grip feels great, but I think I'll modify it a bit in the future. IMHO, backstrap end of the butt doesn't need to be as long, or as fat, as it is so I'm thinking of rounding it off some. Holster is a Bianchi Covert Option IWB. Took me half dozen tries to find it, but it's comfy, the gun goes in and comes out easily, and it's easy to take off if the need arises.
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Spyderco Knives (in order of obtainment):
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
-Tenacious, Combo edge
-Tasman Salt, PE
-Persistence Blue, PE
-Pacific Salt, Black, PE
-Delica 4, Emerson Grey
-DiAlex Junior
-Byrd SS Crossbill, PE
-Endura 4 Emerson Grey
-Byrd Meadowlark 2 FRN, PE
-Resilience
If the cylinders are the same size, then this would be the situation. Just like Paul said, the inside of the chambers are cut to only chamber 38 Special rounds. The 357 round being longer will not chamber fully. Don't try to ream a 38 Special cylinder out to fit 357 Magnum rounds! :)Gunslinger wrote:Thank you, You answered my question. I was just curious about the outer dimensions of the cylinder (whether one was longer then the other). Trying to decide if I should get a .38 or .357. Since they are the same size I will most likely go with the .357.
If the cylinders are the same size, then this would be the situation. Just like Paul said, the inside of the chambers are cut to only chamber 38 Special rounds. The 357 round being longer will not chamber fully. Don't try to ream a 38 Special cylinder out to fit 357 Magnum rounds! :)Gunslinger wrote:Thank you, You answered my question. I was just curious about the outer dimensions of the cylinder (whether one was longer then the other). Trying to decide if I should get a .38 or .357. Since they are the same size I will most likely go with the .357.
I agree, if the cylinders are the same size then guns chambered in 38 Special have shorter chambers to prevent chambering 357 Mags in them, for obvious reasons! :)The Deacon wrote:Not exactly true. The chambers are on a .38 are shorter, but that does not necessarily mean the cylinder will be shorter. Often it just means that the "unrifled barrel" portion of the cylinder between the end of the chamber and the front face of the cylinder is a bit longer on the .38. Which is not to say it would be safe to rebore a .38 Spl. S&W J frame cylinder to take .357 Magnums, or that a .357 cylinder could be used in a J frame intended for .38. Not to mention that, unlike dropping a new barrel into most autos, unless a revolver comes from the factory with 2 cylinders, replacing the cylinder is not a DIY project for the average gun owner.
I agree, if the cylinders are the same size then guns chambered in 38 Special have shorter chambers to prevent chambering 357 Mags in them, for obvious reasons! :)The Deacon wrote:Not exactly true. The chambers are on a .38 are shorter, but that does not necessarily mean the cylinder will be shorter. Often it just means that the "unrifled barrel" portion of the cylinder between the end of the chamber and the front face of the cylinder is a bit longer on the .38. Which is not to say it would be safe to rebore a .38 Spl. S&W J frame cylinder to take .357 Magnums, or that a .357 cylinder could be used in a J frame intended for .38. Not to mention that, unlike dropping a new barrel into most autos, unless a revolver comes from the factory with 2 cylinders, replacing the cylinder is not a DIY project for the average gun owner.
I agree, if the cylinders are the same size then guns chambered in 38 Special have shorter chambers to prevent chambering 357 Mags in them, for obvious reasons! :)The Deacon wrote:Not exactly true. The chambers are on a .38 are shorter, but that does not necessarily mean the cylinder will be shorter. Often it just means that the "unrifled barrel" portion of the cylinder between the end of the chamber and the front face of the cylinder is a bit longer on the .38. Which is not to say it would be safe to rebore a .38 Spl. S&W J frame cylinder to take .357 Magnums, or that a .357 cylinder could be used in a J frame intended for .38. Not to mention that, unlike dropping a new barrel into most autos, unless a revolver comes from the factory with 2 cylinders, replacing the cylinder is not a DIY project for the average gun owner.
I agree, if the cylinders are the same size then guns chambered in 38 Special have shorter chambers to prevent chambering 357 Mags in them, for obvious reasons! :)The Deacon wrote:Not exactly true. The chambers are on a .38 are shorter, but that does not necessarily mean the cylinder will be shorter. Often it just means that the "unrifled barrel" portion of the cylinder between the end of the chamber and the front face of the cylinder is a bit longer on the .38. Which is not to say it would be safe to rebore a .38 Spl. S&W J frame cylinder to take .357 Magnums, or that a .357 cylinder could be used in a J frame intended for .38. Not to mention that, unlike dropping a new barrel into most autos, unless a revolver comes from the factory with 2 cylinders, replacing the cylinder is not a DIY project for the average gun owner.
- The Deacon
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- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: Upstate SC, USA
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There are some large frame .38 Special revolvers where that would be safe, but it would definitely be risky with a J frame S&W, especially an older one. Knew one fellow who did it to a Colt Officers Model Match he occasionally hunted with and another who'd trim .357 Mag. cases to .38 Spl. length, load them to .357 Mag. ballistics, and use them when he hunted with his S&W 38-44 Outdoorsman. But those two guns were "overbuilt" for .38 Spl and their weight and grip size made them reasonably pleasant to shoot with .357 Mags.. Personally, I'm not sure if I'd want to shoot .357 Mag. in a J frame, even one built to take it. Definitely not with any factory grips S&W mounts on them.eric m. wrote:Don't try to ream a 38 Special cylinder out to fit 357 Magnum rounds! :)
Paul
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
My Personal Website ---- Beginners Guide to Spyderco Collecting ---- Spydiewiki
Deplorable :p
WTC # 1458 - 1504 - 1508 - Never Forget, Never Forgive!
It's not pleasant, even with medium velocity loads! I reload my own ammo and stick to 38 +p+ loads with 125 gr. HP's. With an all steel revolver this size the recoil is not bad at all. Now the S&W airweight models with just +P's and factory grips is painful for me. I also have a 6in. GP100 and a 4in. 686 that are my 357's. By the way, that revolver(Old Chief) is beautiful! :)The Deacon wrote:There are some large frame .38 Special revolvers where that would be safe, but it would definitely be risky with a J frame S&W, especially an older one. Knew one fellow who did it to a Colt Officers Model Match he occasionally hunted with and another who'd trim .357 Mag. cases to .38 Spl. length, load them to .357 Mag. ballistics, and use them when he hunted with his S&W 38-44 Outdoorsman. But those two guns were "overbuilt" for .38 Spl and their weight and grip size made them reasonably pleasant to shoot with .357 Mags.. Personally, I'm not sure if I'd want to shoot .357 Mag. in a J frame, even one built to take it. Definitely not with any factory grips S&W mounts on them.
- Gunslinger
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My grandfather has that same exact model, He was a carpenter and was working in an old store gutting the inside so it can be remodeled. He found the gun in brand new condition in a compartment under the store main counter. He notified the original store owner and he sold the gun to my grandfather for $100.The Deacon wrote:And, speaking of S&W J Frame .38's, picked this one up two weeks back. It's a mid 70's production square butt Chiefs Special and, IMHO, in excellent condition for its age.
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The factory grips were too small for me, so I replaced them with a Hogue One Piece Goncalo Alves grip this week. The Hogue grip feels great, but I think I'll modify it a bit in the future. IMHO, backstrap end of the butt doesn't need to be as long, or as fat, as it is so I'm thinking of rounding it off some. Holster is a Bianchi Covert Option IWB. Took me half dozen tries to find it, but it's comfy, the gun goes in and comes out easily, and it's easy to take off if the need arises.
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I used to carry a snubbie...a little 2-1/2" 5-shot .38 Special until I decided that I'd be better served by something that was about the same size, just as reliable and held 5 extra rounds (Glock 26) :)eric m. wrote:I'm with you there, but I also love a good revolver! A snubby in a pancake holster becomes invisible and very comfy to carry! I also love single action capability, which is a benefit at longer ranges! :)
Jason