Does anyone regret the sharpmaker?
I am using sharpmaker since 2005 to sharpen my folders and kitchen knives and love it. It take just few minutes to set it up and bring the edge back to sharp, unless you really dull the knife. For repair and reprofiling I am using WE.
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf"
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
Sharpening for me is sort of a zen thing that I have found satisfying for more than 50 years. Thought I was pretty good at freehand until I got the Sharpmaker. Wow! And it's pretty much a zen thing.
-Marc (pocketing a JD Smith sprint today)
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
“When science changes its opinion, it didn’t lie to you. It learned more.”
- hunterseeker5
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IF the work shop would wet-grind, it'd be a winner. Unfortunately it doesn't, so you do run the risk of burning the edge. Remember, at its apex, it is actually significantly thinner than aluminum foil. Of course this presupposes you're capable of sharpening better than the work-sharp ergo would be able to tell the difference. If you can't, which many people can't, then you'll make an argument like it doesn't.
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/ ... #msg-24236
The Sharpmaker has its own drawbacks as well though. It is fairly slow to remove material, even with the coveted diamond rods, you (or at least I) have difficulty consistently striking the apex on very very wide bevel knives, and you have the potential to damage the edge as you would with a butcher's steel if you use excessive force when using the points of the triangles. You of course can also load up the rods and end up burnishing the edge rather than abrading it, but this is reasonably well known and documented and you simply need to clean them. To its credit, the sharpmaker is one of the few sharpeners I'm aware of which can, reasonably easily, address serrations.
I certainly would take the Sharpmaker over the work sharp, although I'd take the WEPS or 10" DMT plates over both. Of course those are both rather out of the price range in this case, and not really as portable or versatile as the sharpmaker.
http://www.cliffstamp.com/knives/forum/ ... #msg-24236
The Sharpmaker has its own drawbacks as well though. It is fairly slow to remove material, even with the coveted diamond rods, you (or at least I) have difficulty consistently striking the apex on very very wide bevel knives, and you have the potential to damage the edge as you would with a butcher's steel if you use excessive force when using the points of the triangles. You of course can also load up the rods and end up burnishing the edge rather than abrading it, but this is reasonably well known and documented and you simply need to clean them. To its credit, the sharpmaker is one of the few sharpeners I'm aware of which can, reasonably easily, address serrations.
I certainly would take the Sharpmaker over the work sharp, although I'd take the WEPS or 10" DMT plates over both. Of course those are both rather out of the price range in this case, and not really as portable or versatile as the sharpmaker.
I pretty much only ever use the finest band. If I put the rougher grit on it's only for 1 or 2 light strokes, unless I've chipped the edge or something.Blerv wrote:I wouldn't argue it's not fast (conceptually...I don't own one) but it also seems a great way to hog off a ton of steel and stress the edge.
Definitely. If you've got good sharpening skills (or just enjoy sharpening) the Worksharp isn't the right tool. But if you've got knives you just want to keep sharp with minimal effort (and without putting in the effort to become better at sharpening), the WS is a great tool.hunterseeker5 wrote:Of course this presupposes you're capable of sharpening better than the work-sharp ergo would be able to tell the difference. If you can't, which many people can't, then you'll make an argument like it doesn't.
Cannot speak to the KO version, but I have the regular Work Sharp. I don't touch any of my Spyderco's to it after rounding the tip a bit on my Sage 2. I suppose the variable speed control and some practice with it would cure that, but it is not worth it. I do not however regret buying it. It was bought primarily to sharpen my lawn mower blades, and other various things in the garage. As a handheld mini belt sander, it is very handy. For my knives, I use a GATCO for re-profiling and SM for everything else. I do not regret the SM.
I will be getting a KO WorkSharp soon, over the Wicked Edge which is just annoyingly pricey IMO. Been researching it and to make it a complete setup, on top of the $150 machine, the $100 extension they now sell really completes it (you can go below 15DPS for example). I'll be good with the base system for awhile though. Am curious about people saying it takes off too much metal, I'll take extra care.
I want to know, can you avoid a convex edge with it?
As for the SM, for my folders and kitchen knives I've been very happy with it and assume that even if I'm happy with the WS when I get it, I'll still use them in tandem. SM for touchups and microbeveling so it ain't going anywhere and will be just as important to me as it is now. Also I'm away from home more than half the month because of work and bring it with me.
I want to know, can you avoid a convex edge with it?
As for the SM, for my folders and kitchen knives I've been very happy with it and assume that even if I'm happy with the WS when I get it, I'll still use them in tandem. SM for touchups and microbeveling so it ain't going anywhere and will be just as important to me as it is now. Also I'm away from home more than half the month because of work and bring it with me.
A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory.
-Leonard Nimoy
-Leonard Nimoy
I have a few Sharpmakers - keep one at home, one in the shop, and one in the vehicle - as everyone has said they are a great all-around sharpener. I learned on benchstones, and still pull them out on occasion, but the sharpmaker has replaced them for most uses.
Lately I have been playing with convex edges though so I also have several stropping blocks with different sharpening compounds... which is where the Worksharp comes in.
Sharpening on a belt is a quick way to reprofile to a convex edge. The Ken Onion edition has variable speed and it is not particularly complicated to operate. It is hard to remove too much metal unless you are trying to learn on a coarse belt--practice on inexpensive knives until you get a feel for it. There is still some technique involved to get a good consistent edge.
If you are wrecking the temper of a knife you didn't read the instructions. And possibly should not own knives as you may present a danger to yourself....
Lately I have been playing with convex edges though so I also have several stropping blocks with different sharpening compounds... which is where the Worksharp comes in.
Sharpening on a belt is a quick way to reprofile to a convex edge. The Ken Onion edition has variable speed and it is not particularly complicated to operate. It is hard to remove too much metal unless you are trying to learn on a coarse belt--practice on inexpensive knives until you get a feel for it. There is still some technique involved to get a good consistent edge.
If you are wrecking the temper of a knife you didn't read the instructions. And possibly should not own knives as you may present a danger to yourself....
I don't think ruining the temper is the problem. I mean...it is if you have absolutely no concept of empathy :) .shu wrote:If you are wrecking the temper of a knife you didn't read the instructions. And possibly should not own knives as you may present a danger to yourself....
People frequently ask the boards why the factory edge chips or doesn't seem to stay sharp as long as it should given the reputation of ___ steel. The first recommendation is to de-stress the edge and give it a hand sharpening, nearly all the problems are reported to go away after this. In theory you could brush your teeth with a Dremel too. I just think the wear and tear your teeth would go through wouldn't be worth it.
When you get down to it the price of a Sharpmaker is silly cheap. Even the full MSRP of $99 isn't a bad deal let alone retail pricing. It's very comprehensive and has very few flaws besides maybe being slow. When people upgrade by spending 4-5 times the money for a WEPS or EdgePro it's a complement more than anything. The 204 will still sharpen serrated knives, hawkbills and recurves which is tough to find elsewhere (as a small cheap kit).
The stock diamond stones aren't very good for reprofiling blades, but you can get good results if you clip a DMT extra coarse stone on to the rods. The one thing the Sharpmaker is missing imo is more adjustment. A lot of edges would need fairly heavy reprofiling to get to 20 degrees on each side. It would be nice to be able to dial an edge in and be able to get it sharp without having to reprofile the bevels. It would be cool if Spyderco made a premium model sharpmaker that had adjustments and maybe a modular space for stones, so that you could use more than the stock rods.
Except last I checked my teeth do not have the wear-resistance of even 420... although I do use an electric toothbrush. Recommended by my dentist.Blerv wrote:In theory you could brush your teeth with a Dremel too. I just think the wear and tear your teeth would go through wouldn't be worth it.
I hear you regarding 'hand sharpening' though. The KO Worksharp complements it just like the systems which require the knife be clamped in, one difference being the knife is in a position to move around the honing surface. Small difference to some but I feel it provides more control, especially on longer blades. Others worry about using a power belt on their fancy steels but that is how most knives got their edge in the first place.
The Worksharp, WEPS, Edgepro, etc. all do what they are intended to do, with limitations. I do not think any of them are necessary, and most folks are probably better off at least starting with a Sharpmaker, stropping block, bench stones, or the like.
Really it just comes down to finding what works best for you.
This is a good news. People were begging about this for ages. :)sal wrote:We are experimebnting with a new abrasive for the sharpmaker. At least as coarse as Diamond, perhaps more so.
sal
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf"
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
Just me! I love the SM also. Might look into those new diamond rods, or just get the present ones to speed up the re-profiling process! All of you guys with those glass-like edges, I admire your devotion! :Denduraguy wrote:I love my SM. I'm not one of these types "passionate" about sharpening though. I like to get in, and get it done.
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- Surfingringo
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If you are trying to set a bevel without the diamond stones then yes, this would be true. It takes a fair bit of work on the sm even with the diamond rods. Where the sm really excels IMHO is putting a perfect hair whittling microbevel on once you have established a good primary bevel (and obviously maintaining that mb too). I'm a pretty competent freehand sharpener, but i cannot match the results I'm able to get with the sm.Shecki wrote:I'm fairly new to sharpening to be honest, but I get better results freehand than I do with the sharp maker. Easier to control (IMO) and I can get a much nicer bevel with my diasharps than the SM. I really only use the UF rods on the sharpmaker for touch up and if my edge needs anything more than that....I go back to the diasharps if I need to.
- Screwdriver
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I really like the Sharpmaker, but took me a lot of practice to get me system down. I also have a DMT Duosharp that I use to fix a bad edge and then finish on the SM. But I will be honest.....imho the video that Sal does was useless for me. I just could never get a knife sharp until I learned the sharpie trick.
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