How to fix blade centering on the Paramilitary 2?
How to fix blade centering on the Paramilitary 2?
I recently disassembled my PM2 to remove sand from the pivot area. I was able to mount it back without trouble (opening is smooth and lock is tight as before), except that the blade is now slightly off center. Not a big deal but it bugs me. Has someone encountered the same problem and managed to fix it?
(sorry I didn't noticed that I was in the wrong forum when I posted this thread, and I don't know how to move it into the general discussions :o tips welcome!)
(sorry I didn't noticed that I was in the wrong forum when I posted this thread, and I don't know how to move it into the general discussions :o tips welcome!)
You really just need to tinker with the screw tightness. People will break it down into a scientific procedure, but it's really not that complicated in my experience.
Loosen all the screws and then snug the pivot screw first (not SNUG, just enough that the blade doesn't play). Then I like to tighten all the screws on one side of the handle first, going from the pivot towards the butt, and then do the other side. I've had a lot of luck in my 20CP coming out perfect every time doing it this way.
Ironically enough, I can put my Yojimbo 2 together any way I please and I've never had issues with blade centering. Not sure what's different. Same goes for my Manix 2, those knives don't seem able to be off center, I've never seen one that isn't.
One thing that might make a difference for me is I don't over tighten my screws. They don't need to be torqued down with a pry bar, just snug them up with some loctite and they're good to go.
Loosen all the screws and then snug the pivot screw first (not SNUG, just enough that the blade doesn't play). Then I like to tighten all the screws on one side of the handle first, going from the pivot towards the butt, and then do the other side. I've had a lot of luck in my 20CP coming out perfect every time doing it this way.
Ironically enough, I can put my Yojimbo 2 together any way I please and I've never had issues with blade centering. Not sure what's different. Same goes for my Manix 2, those knives don't seem able to be off center, I've never seen one that isn't.
One thing that might make a difference for me is I don't over tighten my screws. They don't need to be torqued down with a pry bar, just snug them up with some loctite and they're good to go.
~David
No problem. What happens is, all those screws pull and twist the scales/liners out of parallel from the blade.oneunder wrote:Hey it works! I hadn't tried to play with the bottom screws, only the pivot and stop pin ones, I guess this was why the blade was always leaning toward one side. Many thanks Evil!!
~David
- phillipsted
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David hit the nail on the head. He's got the right technique for re-tightening the screws - start with the pivot first, then I always do the stop pin next, followed by the scale screws.
I've also found that if you have completely disassembled your Para2 and removed the thong tube - the loosened tube can cause a little warping over time. I have to loosen and tighten my screws every six months or so with my micarta Para2. The blade never gets completely askew, but it always straightens back up easily.
TedP
I've also found that if you have completely disassembled your Para2 and removed the thong tube - the loosened tube can cause a little warping over time. I have to loosen and tighten my screws every six months or so with my micarta Para2. The blade never gets completely askew, but it always straightens back up easily.
TedP
On another point, I have taken my knives apart to modify, but have never
had to for cleaning purposes. You can put them in soapy water or take a hose
or air compressor to them to get stuff out. I have taken a piece of paper such
as a yellow post it and worked it in the knife to get small particles out. Sometimes
a little lube and then work a post-it back and forth.
had to for cleaning purposes. You can put them in soapy water or take a hose
or air compressor to them to get stuff out. I have taken a piece of paper such
as a yellow post it and worked it in the knife to get small particles out. Sometimes
a little lube and then work a post-it back and forth.
I've found there are very few things that WD-40 won't spray out, then soap and running water and then compressed air.BAL wrote:On another point, I have taken my knives apart to modify, but have never
had to for cleaning purposes. You can put them in soapy water or take a hose
or air compressor to them to get stuff out. I have taken a piece of paper such
as a yellow post it and worked it in the knife to get small particles out. Sometimes
a little lube and then work a post-it back and forth.
~David
Actually I use the WD40 myself, but it seems like many don't share my opinion.Evil D wrote:I've found there are very few things that WD-40 won't spray out, then soap and running water and then compressed air.
I like the dry lube, such as Tuffglide, but I do find that there is quite a bit of power
coming out the end of that little red tube.
- jackknifeh
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Sounds like your problem is solved and several have mastered it as well. I don't have a Para2 but I have had centering problems when closed on a couple of other knives. The screws are the thing but this is how it makes sense to me. Picture a stack of paper you are going to put in your printer. You should bend the stack a couple of times to keep some of the sheets to stick to the ones next to it. I picture this and the knife is 5 pieces of paper. The blade being the center one of course. If you loosen the screws, hold the knife at the pivot and try to bend the handle one way then the next you can see how the scales and liners would slide against each other. When they are bent to the point that the blade is centered between the liners that is when to tighten the screws. You may need to play with it to get it just right. This is the exact same thing you guys are talking about. I thought I'd throw in my way of picturing it because it helps me to understand what is really happening. Now when you tighten the screws in a certain order that could be a way to line the scales/liners up correctly. This theory I have I think applies to most folding knives I think. Now the ones with only FRN or some other material and no liners is different I suppose. I guess the pivot screw is your only option here. However, I've never had this issue on a knife other than one with liners. I think this goes to show the accuracy in Spyderco's planning and manufacturing. Hope this made sense.
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Blade centering
A huge thanks to Evil D. I just received a.) first Spyderco b.) Paramilitary 2 all black manufactured 11/2013. Like the rookie goofball I am I used my torx set to make sure everything was tight out of the box. I completely messed up the centering and was considering sending it back to Spyderco (at that point I didn't know) until I read this post I didn't know that I caused the centering to be off by super tightening each nut. AGAIN THANKS TO EVIL D, and the explanation above my PM2 is absolutely perfect!
Hey man welcome to the forum! Glad I could help you out. Stick around, these guys taught me everything I know. Well, apart from the things I learned from screwing up and trial and error lol :DRevan_1355 wrote:A huge thanks to Evil D. I just received a.) first Spyderco b.) Paramilitary 2 all black manufactured 11/2013. Like the rookie goofball I am I used my torx set to make sure everything was tight out of the box. I completely messed up the centering and was considering sending it back to Spyderco (at that point I didn't know) until I read this post I didn't know that I caused the centering to be off by super tightening each nut. AGAIN THANKS TO EVIL D, and the explanation above my PM2 is absolutely perfect!
~David
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Blade centering
Dude it's crazy smooth and no blade play and perfectly centered!! Again thanks for the info and I will certainly look around. Love my new Spyderco pm2!!!!!!!
- jackknifeh
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I've learned a lot here too and from evil as well. The one thing I learned is if you want to know about knives and what to buy you will learn it here. :) So have your payroll dept. send your paychecks to your favorite knife seller. :) Maybe they will let you have some of the money to buy groceries. :) Kidding. Welcome to the forum. Congrats on a great knife AND becoming a highly skilled knife technician. :)
Jack
Jack
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One thing I've also noticed on my knife is that the stop pin rotation can slightly change the angle of the blade as well. I had one side loose and one side barely snug... and when I tried turning the snug side the pivot pin would spin. I then looked at the tip and could see it moving side to side EVER so slightly (maybe 1/2 a mil)
So that's another tip for those having blade centering issues.
So that's another tip for those having blade centering issues.
I've never tried it but my guess is that any knife with similar pillar construction may behave the same way. Couldn't hurt to try.Shecki wrote:Anyone know of this method works with a Sage 2? I have it **** near perfect....but it could go over just a hair more and when I tighten either side of the pivot, it seems to put to much pressure on the blade and open real hard.
~David
Gave it a try. Didn't quite work out. I don't own a para2 but I'm guessing the construction is a little different. With the sage2 the pivot is female on both sides with screws on both sides that thread in. Is the para the same?Evil D wrote:I've never tried it but my guess is that any knife with similar pillar construction may behave the same way. Couldn't hurt to try.