Breeden Rescue Question

[Episteme]

Hello. I just purchased a NIB Jason Breeden Rescue. I love the blade, and I figured I'd kick myself if I didn't pick one of these up while they are still available.

My question is about the liner lock. How far over is the liner supposed to engage on the tang when the knife is brand new? I attached a photo, perhaps others in the know about the Spyderco factory specs for liner locks can help me out. It looks like it's not early lock up...but maybe these liner locks don't travel too much over time?

Does my new Breeden Rescue lock up correctly?

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[Blerv]

That certainly looks safe but Spyderco W&R are the only ones who can really deem it as such. I've seen later lockup and earlier lockup, I prefer late or mid to early simply because I know it's engaged.

[dbcad]

I snapped a quick pick, about the same as mine, no worries :)

[Cheddarnut]

Is it safe to assume anything early enough to not completely engage is too early?

[dbcad]

Is it safe to assume anything early enough to not completely engage is too early?

I'm no expert on liner/frame locks :eek:

I don't think so. It depends on the knife and the locks design intent. :) The PPT locks up at 50 to 70% and I've had no problems, then again the metal is a bit thicker and the inward force of the liner/frame is different. Angles on the liner/blade might be different providing greater or lesser support. Also intent of use would also play a role?

For the Breeden 100% seems appropriate for me :)

[Blerv]

With frame-locks, my understanding is that the lockbar should engage about 50% onto to the tang of the blade. At least that's what I recall.

Liner locks are a bit different since the contact area is less wide. Still, most would say early lock-up is better than late as you have more "life in the lock" to move from one side to the other. I believe it's also a bit stronger via geometry.

The problem that I've seen is optimal geometry (early) vs optimal chance of lock-up (late). Early locking knives with a bit of debris and/or a less than assertive snap sometimes don't engage all the way. I prefer a bit more engagement as it's easier to gauge and less resistant to accidental unlockings. That and the "life in the lock", IMHO, is played up quite a bit with SS components. Even traveled all the way over, if the tool otherwise seems secure it wouldn't dissuade me from normal use.

[Episteme]

Thanks to everyone for all the feedback.

I'm thinking that my model is perfectly within spec insofar as the percentage of liner engagement.

I love this knife. The only problem I have is my own fixation I get when I get a liner or frame lock; I constantly think about whether the lock up is not early enough, and I also I fixate on how strong the ball detent is. I like strong detent retention and early lock up.

With lockbacks, none of these are of any concern.

The Breeden Rescue is one heck of a knife though. That blade reminds me of a razor; ready to cut through anything.

[xceptnl]

With frame-locks, my understanding is that the lockbar should engage about 50% onto to the tang of the blade. At least that's what I recall.

Liner locks are a bit different since the contact area is less wide. Still, most would say early lock-up is better than late as you have more "life in the lock" to move from one side to the other. I believe it's also a bit stronger via geometry.

The problem that I've seen is optimal geometry (early) vs optimal chance of lock-up (late). Early locking knives with a bit of debris and/or a less than assertive snap sometimes don't engage all the way. I prefer a bit more engagement as it's easier to gauge and less resistant to accidental unlockings. That and the "life in the lock", IMHO, is played up quite a bit with SS components. Even traveled all the way over, if the tool otherwise seems secure it wouldn't dissuade me from normal use.

I agree with most all of what Blake is saying. I would certainly trust a framelock at 99% much sooner than a super early lockup at 5% or even 10%. What good is early lockup and lock break-in if you have no fingers to hold said knife. Geometry is obviously important also, but I think too much emphasis was placed on "early lockup" by way too many reviewers. This is important if you plan to sit and flip the **** out of your knives. If you have this much nervous energy, may I suggest these for repetitive action to calm your nerves.



Okay, rant over. Back on topic.

Linerlocks by Spyderco have in my experience locked between 30% and 60%. I don't really recall noticing any wear in with my Military models after years of use. Yours looks good for years of use!

[Fresh Eddie Fresh]

Sort of off-topic, but on the subject of the Breeden Rescue... the other night I was trying to figure out why I liked using mine so much and I figured out that it might be because it is perfectly balanced. You can balance it on one finger where the lock is... obviously be careful doing it, but I think in use that is why it feels so natural.

I know a lot of people do not like the swedge on the blade, but I think that is probably why it was put there.

[TomAiello]

Have any of you guys with Breeden's done any reprofiling? I was considering reprofiling the leading edge of mine to create a razel style scraping edge.

[dbcad]

I've reprofiled mine, it's enjoyable to get a nice hunk of HG VG-10 as sharp as you can make it :D

Being VG-10 with harder use maintenance of the lower angle edge will be required and care should be taken in it's use. I find this one a superb kithchen slicer with a semi polished edge.

[Blerv]

Mine is being flat ground by rtravis here on the forum. Also getting a Polliwog, Khukuri and Fallkniven PXL done. Will post pics when I get them back :)