I own a few diamond sharpening tools that I personally think are a well hidden secret among many enthusiasts. A few years ago there was a woodworking supply company where I live that was going out of business and I got many of their 3M brand sharpening tools at a huge discount.
One of the main diamond sharpening tools I got was the 3M diamond Benchstones as well as some of 3M's diamond files. In the past I've owned and used DMT, Norton and one other generic brand of diamond sharpening tools but so far with the great results I've had I think that the
3M benchstones truly do a superb job. I've been extremely satisfied with every diamond tool that bears the 3M label I own and have used.
It's been a while since I've seen a serious thread on diamond benchstones and diamond sharpening tools in general. So I would like to ask all of you who you think makes the best diamond sharpening tools? Also are there any of you all here at Spyderville that have also had any of 3M's sharpening gear ( diamond or other)?
I've been told by 2 guys in the woodworking arena as well as a machinist friend of mine that if you are going to get any diamond sharpening tools you absolutely must have tools made with "monocrystalline" diamonds for optimal results.
OK let's talk about diamond sharpening tools?
Diamond sharpening tools? Your Favorite?
Diamond sharpening tools? Your Favorite?
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
Seems like I see the DMT brand mentioned a lot, and I've been happy with the DMT bench stones I have. I saw your other post wishing for a different grit Golden Stone, what I would really like is for Spyderco to have a COARSE version of their diamond rods for the SharpMaker - I feel their current diamond rods are useful, but sometimes not aggressive enough.
I recently bought an Edge Pro but don't have much experience with it yet. Do y'all ever use diamond stones on those? I see mention of Chosera, Shapton Glass, etc but those aren't diamonds, right?
I recently bought an Edge Pro but don't have much experience with it yet. Do y'all ever use diamond stones on those? I see mention of Chosera, Shapton Glass, etc but those aren't diamonds, right?
Which Knife, A or B? get Both! (and C, D and E) :)
The Atomas I mentioned are for the Edge Pro. They're pretty excellent in my opinion. They have a very even diamond displacement which gives you very consistent results.rodloos wrote:Seems like I see the DMT brand mentioned a lot, and I've been happy with the DMT bench stones I have. I saw your other post wishing for a different grit Golden Stone, what I would really like is for Spyderco to have a COARSE version of their diamond rods for the SharpMaker - I feel their current diamond rods are useful, but sometimes not aggressive enough.
I recently bought an Edge Pro but don't have much experience with it yet. Do y'all ever use diamond stones on those? I see mention of Chosera, Shapton Glass, etc but those aren't diamonds, right?
They're a bit pricey, but will last who knows how long, and they'll all be the same thickness so you won't have to worry about inconsistency. I have the 400 and 600 and plan to get the 140 and 1200 soon.
http://www.chefknivestogo.com/diplforedpro.html
~David
Here's a great picture example of why I'd go Atoma over DMT, if you have the cash that is.
http://jendeindustries.wordpress.com/20 ... omparison/
http://jendeindustries.wordpress.com/20 ... omparison/
~David
Seriously Evil check out 3M's selection of diamond sharpening tools because I'm willing to bet that they have exactly what you need. I've also had excellent luck with the Norton diamond tools that I have as well. Just make sure that whoever you get these rods from is using "monocrystalline diamonds". Because I remember a big article on diamond tools way back around 5 to 6 years ago in BLADE magazine and they explained why the monocrystalling diamonds were superior for use as abrasives. I've checked with and talked to company reps with Norton, 3M, DMT and Smith's and they all assured me that they use nothing but monocrystalline diamonds. I have some of DMT's conical rods for sharpening serration scallops and I have them in 4 different grits and they do a great job for really beat up serration scallops.Evil D wrote:I would love to get a set of diamond rods to fit various serration sizes. Aside from that I've really enjoyed my Atoma plates and plan on buying their whole set to see how I like their high grit stuff for EDC edges. I like the idea of a "stone" that will virtually cut forever.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
Awesome. I'm pretty determined to set up some kind of rod holder for my Edge Pro so I can sharpen each individual serration on it and be able to keep the scallops factory looking.JD Spydo wrote:Seriously Evil check out 3M's selection of diamond sharpening tools because I'm willing to bet that they have exactly what you need. I've also had excellent luck with the Norton diamond tools that I have as well. Just make sure that whoever you get these rods from is using "monocrystalline diamonds". Because I remember a big article on diamond tools way back around 5 to 6 years ago in BLADE magazine and they explained why the monocrystalling diamonds were superior for use as abrasives. I've checked with and talked to company reps with Norton, 3M, DMT and Smith's and they all assured me that they use nothing but monocrystalline diamonds. I have some of DMT's conical rods for sharpening serration scallops and I have them in 4 different grits and they do a great job for really beat up serration scallops.
~David
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jackknifeh
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- Joined: Fri Jul 09, 2010 6:01 am
- Location: Florida panhandle
I've used a lot of DMT products and love them. I would love to try some Atoma products also. Some guys whose opinions I trust on the CKTG forum swear by them and say the money is well spent. IMO the DMT's are fine with me based on my financial situation. They do fine and should last my lifetime. But I'd still like to try them and the next time a big bag of cash comes my way I may get some.
I use the DMT 2"x6" stones in my EP when I want to remove a lot of steel or on big knives (6" and longer). I used my Dremel to cut a slot in the end of each stone for the stone holders on the EP rod to hold. I have the stones with diamonds on both sides so I can't glue them to a blank. I had to cut the rear stone holder on the EP so it would hold the rear of the stone and it works GREAT. Luckily the stones sit in there very close to the same angle as a 1/8" thick stone and blank does. They are very heavy though so I won't use them for any finishing light strokes. Also, I just use the coarse and extra-coarse grits usually. I tried hard to get DMT to make some EP stones about 3 years ago using the pokadot type stones they have. Stones like that about 1"x6" would be very light. I actually used my 4" stones on the EP. They work but of course they are short. After a while DMT guys told me they had abandoned the idea. the Atoma's would be the way to go for EP use I believe.
DMT describes on their site about mono-crystaline vs poly-crystaline products. The jist is mono is better. :)
I have tried several different types of stones in the past year or so. The Shapton Glass stones are so great IMO I consider them in their own class. I had and sold two 8" bench stones though. I have a 5 stone set from 500 to 8k grits for the EP that I will keep. They will put a mirror finish on a perfectly flat bevel when used in the EP.
My desire to only have a few stones limited to what I use most has resulted in me now using (bench) fine and extra-fine grit 8" DMT stones. I'd like an 8" coarse grit later. I have the 4 grit set in 2"x6" stones. I also have the Spyderco 8" fine grit bench stone. I want the UF Spyderco stone later as well. I'll get it before the DMT coarse stone. What this means is I use DMT stones for the coarser grits and the Spyderco ceramic stones for the finer grits to finish edges with. Actually the fine and extra-fine DMT stones put a very nice edge on a knife. But if you want a smoother edge I like the Spyderco stones. So now I have the stones to put any type edge I want on a knife. I have the 5" Spyderco stones mounted on EP blanks also but seldom use them. Between the EP stones, moldmasters, Spyderco and Shapton glass stones for the EP I don't use the Spyderco stones much. If I sharpened a lot or for money I'd definately have a set of Shapton glass stones. Those guys are awsome. They cut really fast and leave a great finish and they don't wear all that fast for water stones.
That's my opinion and what I have decided to stick with. Until I want to try something else that is. BUT, I won't ever NEED anything else I don't believe.
I use the DMT 2"x6" stones in my EP when I want to remove a lot of steel or on big knives (6" and longer). I used my Dremel to cut a slot in the end of each stone for the stone holders on the EP rod to hold. I have the stones with diamonds on both sides so I can't glue them to a blank. I had to cut the rear stone holder on the EP so it would hold the rear of the stone and it works GREAT. Luckily the stones sit in there very close to the same angle as a 1/8" thick stone and blank does. They are very heavy though so I won't use them for any finishing light strokes. Also, I just use the coarse and extra-coarse grits usually. I tried hard to get DMT to make some EP stones about 3 years ago using the pokadot type stones they have. Stones like that about 1"x6" would be very light. I actually used my 4" stones on the EP. They work but of course they are short. After a while DMT guys told me they had abandoned the idea. the Atoma's would be the way to go for EP use I believe.
DMT describes on their site about mono-crystaline vs poly-crystaline products. The jist is mono is better. :)
I have tried several different types of stones in the past year or so. The Shapton Glass stones are so great IMO I consider them in their own class. I had and sold two 8" bench stones though. I have a 5 stone set from 500 to 8k grits for the EP that I will keep. They will put a mirror finish on a perfectly flat bevel when used in the EP.
My desire to only have a few stones limited to what I use most has resulted in me now using (bench) fine and extra-fine grit 8" DMT stones. I'd like an 8" coarse grit later. I have the 4 grit set in 2"x6" stones. I also have the Spyderco 8" fine grit bench stone. I want the UF Spyderco stone later as well. I'll get it before the DMT coarse stone. What this means is I use DMT stones for the coarser grits and the Spyderco ceramic stones for the finer grits to finish edges with. Actually the fine and extra-fine DMT stones put a very nice edge on a knife. But if you want a smoother edge I like the Spyderco stones. So now I have the stones to put any type edge I want on a knife. I have the 5" Spyderco stones mounted on EP blanks also but seldom use them. Between the EP stones, moldmasters, Spyderco and Shapton glass stones for the EP I don't use the Spyderco stones much. If I sharpened a lot or for money I'd definately have a set of Shapton glass stones. Those guys are awsome. They cut really fast and leave a great finish and they don't wear all that fast for water stones.
That's my opinion and what I have decided to stick with. Until I want to try something else that is. BUT, I won't ever NEED anything else I don't believe.
When I do any of my Spyderedged ( Spyderco's great serration patterns) or any other serrated blade I might be sharpening and there are any extremely burred up scallops or spikes I go to my diamond tools most of the time. Those conical diamond rods by DMT are very aggressive for really beat up blades and I have excellent results with them. I try to use ceramic most of the time but when I do encounter a really dinged up serrated blade or even a plain edged blade for that matter I find that diamond can be your savior in many instances.3f8 wrote:I use DMT tapered rods on my SE edges. Works for me.
Again I've had excellent luck with all the 3M diamond sharpening tools as well as Norton. I'm anxious to try out these Atoma tools I hear so much about.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!