K390 and S110V Discussion Thread

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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Jax
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#261

Post by Jax »

^ wow!
Good looking knife Jim,i like the pure black G10 you did there :)
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Ankerson
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#262

Post by Ankerson »

Jax wrote:^ wow!
Good looking knife Jim,i like the pure black G10 you did there :)
The scales are from Halpern Titanium. :)

Thanks. :D
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Jax
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#263

Post by Jax »

^ Wow,even better! :)
Kinda looks G10,ish to me!
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Ankerson
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#264

Post by Ankerson »

Jax wrote:^ Wow,even better! :)
Kinda looks G10,ish to me!
They are G10. :)
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Jax
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#265

Post by Jax »

Haha :) lol,I think I understand now!
**** awesome knife!
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Ankerson
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#266

Post by Ankerson »

Jax wrote:Haha :) lol,I think I understand now!
**** awesome knife!
Yeah Spyderco really did something here with this knife and steel. :D
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#267

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

Zenith wrote:I would love to see you drop the edge down to 5 degrees per side and redo the testing.
Why should Ankerson do that when 15dps is quite good enough for that performance? If 15dps works well, why go for something that doesn't? Personally, if I need more performance, I'd regrind(or have it done) to something thin behind the edge and bevel at a reasonable angle.

Methinks some people are just looking for ways to make K390 look bad. :p
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#268

Post by shunsui »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Methinks some people are just looking for ways to make K390 look bad. :p
Well it does rust, but then again, some of the patinas I've seen look pretty nice. ;)
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#269

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

shunsui wrote:well it does rust, but then again, some of the patinas i've seen look pretty nice. ;)
lulz...:d
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#270

Post by Ankerson »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Why should Ankerson do that when 15dps is quite good enough for that performance? If 15dps works well, why go for something that doesn't? Personally, if I need more performance, I'd regrind(or have it done) to something thin behind the edge and bevel at a reasonable angle.

Methinks some people are just looking for ways to make K390 look bad. :p
I think I will leave this one as it as I already have a Custom in K294 that's .010" behind the edge and I keep that one at 10 DPS.
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#271

Post by Zenith »

chuck_roxas45 wrote:Why should Ankerson do that when 15dps is quite good enough for that performance? If 15dps works well, why go for something that doesn't?
Because I am selfish and want to know because I am curious. :D Ankerson is happy with the performance of his knife and that is that.
chuck_roxas45 wrote:Personally, if I need more performance, I'd regrind(or have it done) to something thin behind the edge and bevel at a reasonable angle.
Good for you, I prefer low angles. Does that make one right or wrong?
chuck_roxas45 wrote:Methinks some people are just looking for ways to make K390 look bad. :p
Not at all, I am interested because I have a custom with Nitrobe 77 at 5 degrees per side that I use to cut pipes up and general use with no issues but experienced significant edge degradation of CPM-M4 at that low angle, but I still love my CPM-M4. I am not advocating one above the other, personally, I could care less at this point about x is better then y because of ABC + ET = a bicycle over the moon. I was curios because of my experiences.

In this video at 04:30 I use the Imvubu to cut some pipe for comparison to my Swamp Rat Rodent Solution.

[video=youtube;bwichkfNIgE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bwichkfNIgE[/video]

Here is the stock testing video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GCITlARJvcY#at=471

Here the edge saw some deformation when I was initially using it as a scraper. The edge was at 15 degrees per side I believe, then I sharpened down to 7 degrees per side, then down to 5 degrees per side and the steel still only rolls slightly rather then chip out.

marthinus wrote:An update.

I have been EDCing the knife non stop. Used for multiple tasks, one of which was to use it as a scraper on a plastered walls. Due to the texture of the wall it had hills of cement. This did its due on the edge, of coarse I did not baby it and continued to use it for all manner of tasks. At the end. This is how the edge looked where most of the work was done.

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As you can see I did a number on the edge.

So, pulled out the stones, destressed the edge, reshaped the edge and dropped the angle a bit. I used a sharpie to help. My eye coordination did not work that well when I did this. Took around 5 minutes to remove and reshape the edge.

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Went onto the Spyderco UF stone and this is the result.

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After that the knife was used again for some time until I decided to reprofile and drop the angle to as low as I could. Edge is around 7 degrees per side. Took around 15 minutes to reshape the edge, remove any microbevel and polish the edge to mirror.

Removed some images to be able to post

What intrigue me at this stage is sharpening for performance. This thread was a good read: How to make the Benchmade Axis perform and some revisiting of the following article on transition bevels:

Sharpening

I dont know how exactly I will go ahead and do this, but will figure it out later.
Here is the thread with CPM-M4 at low angle that you commented on as well:

CPM-M4-at-low-angles-My-experience-recently
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chuck_roxas45
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#272

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

Ok, my bad and I apologize. I just got defensive with all the "steel bashing" being done.

On the condition that you don't come out with saying AEB-L beats everything. ;)
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#273

Post by JNewell »

I really screwed up... :(
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#274

Post by chuck_roxas45 »

JNewell wrote:I really screwed up... :(
Yep, I thought he was that other "take the steel to crazy angles and make it fail" guy. I'm man enough to admit that I made a mistake though, :D
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#275

Post by JNewell »

Nah, my screwup was not ordering two. :) I used to, but gave up...I have a huge pile backlogged for scales...figured I'd keep it to one until I get ahead! Ooops. :o
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#276

Post by Cliff Stamp »

Zenith wrote:... experienced significant edge degradation of CPM-M4 at that low angle
To be clear though, CPM-M4 as used in knives isn't really HT as a cutting steel, it is undersoaked to provide higher durability, this is especially true in the large choppers (competition cutters), but even in the small folders. I would be very curious what would happen with an actual M4 blade hardened as it is in cutting tools because the steel will be significantly harder with reduced carbide aggregate. I think you are going to have to go custom to get that though. As a poor man's alternative, get a power hawksaw blade and find someone to grind you a blade out of that. They are usually M2 but can be other HSS and they will be much harder and he soaked much hotter so the edge stability will be higher.
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#277

Post by Zenith »

^ Cliff

I am getting more intrigued by M2 but I don't know about its availability locally. There is one maker I know of that runs CPM M4 at 67HRC, but I don't know his heat treat process. Will talk to him at our Guild show.
"If you wish to live and thrive, let the spider run alive"
"the perfect knife is the one in your hand, you should just learn how to use it."
If you don't have anything good to say, then don't say anything at all

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#278

Post by JNewell »

I have no idea how Benchmade used to HT their M2 blades, but they are still great performers. I may not be the most discriminating user, though. :wink:
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#279

Post by Cliff Stamp »

Zenith wrote:
I am getting more intrigued by M2 but I don't know about its availability locally.
I can easily get power HSS blades, just PM your address if you want to get someone to make one into a knife for you.
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#280

Post by Ankerson »

Did some work with the S110V knife today, edge was too short to really do the rope cutting so I made 100 cuts and went straight to the cardboard and cut a lot of it. The knife would still slice through phone book paper after this.

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