Sharpening: Gurkha Kukri & machetes?

[JD Spydo]

Well I'm going to take on a 2 big sharpening projects this weekend. I have 2 of the older Cold Steel Gurkha Kukri knives ( one with a 15 inch blade and one with a 12 inch) that I'm going to do some serious sharpening on.

I will admit that I could stand to learn a few more tricks about sharpening big blades like these and I also want to touch up a couple of great machetes I have as well.

The Cold Steel Gurkha Kukris both have the old CArbon V steel in them which is not a very easy steel to work with. Actually it's pretty hard/tough stuff to put an edge on. But when you do put a great edge particularly on those Gurkhas they blow through small trees and brush with hardly no resistance at all.

So let's talk about sharpening the big blades shall we? I most generally use a sandpaper sharpening method to reprofile the Gurkhas but I"m open to any suggestions because I got a lot of time to get this done before I go on vacation. Also does anyone know what steel they used in Martindale machetes?

[Donut]

I think Convex does well on a blade that will be beaten on. Sandpaper and a mouse pad.

[JD Spydo]

I think Convex does well on a blade that will be beaten on. Sandpaper and a mouse pad.

Yeah I"ve thought about that method and I've also given thought to making both the Gurkha Kukris into convex edges. But it's going to take much more than a mousepad to do these monsters. The one with the 15 inch blade is really like a small to medium sized sword. But if there is a practical way to do that I welcome all your input on doing so. I may just cruise through YOUTUBE and check out all the convex sharpening videos and see what I can find.

Now do keep in mind that neither of the Gurkhas are really dull per se it's just that I want to more or less fine tune them. As much as I love Spyderco's great sharpening tools they do have a bit to be desired for sharpening big blades.

Last time I did this it was with big benchstones. I wouldn't mind trying something similar to what you've suggested but I need more ideas on how to go about it. I have tons of sandpaper so that's not a problem but it would take a mousepad the size of my truck to do these blades.

[Peter1960]

I have tons of sandpaper so that's not a problem but it would take a mousepad the size of my truck to do these blades.

Think the other way round and don't put a large-size mousepad on the table; instead of this take a nice piece of would (5 x 15 cm), glue mousepad and sandpaper on it, put your large blade on the table edge and sharpen it the convex way by holding the sharpening stuff in your hand

This method works fine with my Khukuri.

[cesar]

To large blades and get it sharp, believe, I use a large ceramic plate. Start using 1/4 of the bottom side of the plate placed on a table, where the ceramic is more visible and coarse, and pass all the blade on it, 20 degrees inclination, each side, 20 times. Next to get it even more sharpen, sit down, put the plate vertical under your knees and use the side of the plate, where the ceramic is more bright and fine, and repeat the process passing all the blade on it, 20 degrees inclination, each side, 20 more times. Depend of the size of the blade, instead 1/4 circumference of the plate, you may need to use 1/2 circular diameter. Please post your result. It is not too technological way to get sharp, but believe it produces great results and is free, or almost if you haven't a ceramic plate!

To small folders or fixed blades you can also use a ceramic mug, but don't gripping it under the knees for fine sharpening, but using both sides horizontally over the table. Give it a try!

[jzmtl]

Forget mouse pad, you'll die of old age first especially if you need to reprofile the edge, time to get a 1x30" belt sander.

[phillipsted]

I use a set of Spyderco files to work on my machete. I just clamp the blade to the table and go to town... The carbon steel (10xx series) is pretty easy to put an edge on.

I've sharpened my Carbon V hunting knives many times and had no trouble with the steel - it is rumored to be a common alloy such as 0170-6/50100-B, O1, or plain ole 1095. There's no real magic to it - it's just a trade name stuck on a carbon alloy steel.

TedP

[razorsharp]

+1 on sander

[JD Spydo]

I just sent my TORMEK unit back to the distributor I bought it from for warranty repair on a switch that got corroded. I may just wait until I get it back.

No offense intended to any of you guys that offered up suggestions but it seems like I should just go ahead and get my TORMEK unit repaired and it will save a lot of time.

But I'm still open to any suggestions. And yes I do need to do some reprofiling particularly on the 12 inch, 5/16ths thick, Carbon V model. These bad boys really take some time to sharpen by any manual method.

I may review my instructional video I got a couple of years ago on all kinds of sandpaper sharpening just to see if there is any practical way I could do this job without celebrating 2 more birthdays in the process.

[Kev-Man]

Hey JD Spydo,

Not sure how hard Carbon V is but if it is like TedP mentioned that is like 1095, I use a metal file. Takes the metal off pretty quick. Leaves the edge with a nice bite. Like I said, if the steel is too hard you probably won't do much damage since the file would just slide over the edge. I have a spring steel machete which the file will take metal from.

Kev.