Just so everyone knows - the Cobalt Mules seem to still be available on the SFO website. If you don't have one yet, this is a much better price than you can get them in the aftermarket...
Does this count as "dealspotting" if its on the SFO web site? :rolleyes:
TedP
What scales for your CruWeare Mule?
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xceptnl
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I spotted this one a month ago after a friend offered me an opportunity to get a SB Mule (my first). I was immediately hooked and ordered a Cobalt Special within days of my SB arriving. It really is a great deal compared to the $100 + they sell for on the Bay.phillipsted wrote:Just so everyone knows - the Cobalt Mules seem to still be available on the SFO website. If you don't have one yet, this is a much better price than you can get them in the aftermarket...
Does this count as "dealspotting" if its on the SFO web site? :rolleyes:
TedP
*Landon*sal wrote: .... even today, we design a knife from the edge out!
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WalzAaronFFG
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- Joined: Fri May 06, 2011 11:29 pm
- Location: WI, USA, Earth
rodloos wrote: I like the look of the micarta when it is wet, but when it dries it looks all dusty/powdery from where I sanded it, guess I'm not very good at it yet :) .
Using it over time will give it that "wet" look from the oils on your hands. Halpern Titanium suggests treating their G10 scales with some type of mineral oil to darken them up. Maybe this would offer the same effect on Micarta scales?
Just a suggestion.
:spyder:Current Spydies:spyder:
Blue Delica 4, Jigged Bone Delica-Orange, G10 Delica, ZDP-189 Delica 4, Tenacious, Caly3 CF, Manix 2 DLC, Para2 Digicam, Sage 3, Sage 1, G-10 Dragonfly, Etched Cricket, Salt, Ladybug ZDP-189, Ladybug White SE, Ladybug Hawkbill Salt, Mule Team 11 - M390 w/ custom kydex sheath
:spyder:En Route:spyder:
Spyderco Navaja
Blue Delica 4, Jigged Bone Delica-Orange, G10 Delica, ZDP-189 Delica 4, Tenacious, Caly3 CF, Manix 2 DLC, Para2 Digicam, Sage 3, Sage 1, G-10 Dragonfly, Etched Cricket, Salt, Ladybug ZDP-189, Ladybug White SE, Ladybug Hawkbill Salt, Mule Team 11 - M390 w/ custom kydex sheath
:spyder:En Route:spyder:
Spyderco Navaja
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WalzAaronFFG
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- Location: WI, USA, Earth
Wait... We're not supposed to spot and share deals on the forum? Guess I missed that rule.. or is it new? Either way, I can't say I'm a fan of that rule. I will still obviously follow it, but I think sharing good retailers and prices with each other is one of the perks of being part of this community.phillipsted wrote:Just so everyone knows - the Cobalt Mules seem to still be available on the SFO website. If you don't have one yet, this is a much better price than you can get them in the aftermarket...
Does this count as "dealspotting" if its on the SFO web site? :rolleyes:
TedP
I hope I'm just missing something here.
:spyder:Current Spydies:spyder:
Blue Delica 4, Jigged Bone Delica-Orange, G10 Delica, ZDP-189 Delica 4, Tenacious, Caly3 CF, Manix 2 DLC, Para2 Digicam, Sage 3, Sage 1, G-10 Dragonfly, Etched Cricket, Salt, Ladybug ZDP-189, Ladybug White SE, Ladybug Hawkbill Salt, Mule Team 11 - M390 w/ custom kydex sheath
:spyder:En Route:spyder:
Spyderco Navaja
Blue Delica 4, Jigged Bone Delica-Orange, G10 Delica, ZDP-189 Delica 4, Tenacious, Caly3 CF, Manix 2 DLC, Para2 Digicam, Sage 3, Sage 1, G-10 Dragonfly, Etched Cricket, Salt, Ladybug ZDP-189, Ladybug White SE, Ladybug Hawkbill Salt, Mule Team 11 - M390 w/ custom kydex sheath
:spyder:En Route:spyder:
Spyderco Navaja
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KardinalSyn
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- Location: Colombo, Sri Lanka
Hi Ted. If I do buy the Mule, plan on puttin fireball paracord on the handle.
Already have four knives on order and all are Spyderco knives. it's gonna be a lovely year for my knife collection and a bad one for my wallet.
Already have four knives on order and all are Spyderco knives. it's gonna be a lovely year for my knife collection and a bad one for my wallet.
:spyder: Centofante3 (C66PBK3), ParaMilitary2 (C81GPCMO), Endura4 (C10P), GrassHopper (C138P), Military (C36GPCMO), Perrin PPT (C135GP), Squeak (C154PBK), Dragonfly 2 Salt (C28PYL2), Military M390 CF (C36CFM390P), R (C67GF), ParaMilitary2 CTS-XHP (C81GPOR2), Tuff (C151GTIP), Ladybug & Perrin Street Bowie (FB04PBB)being the newest.
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Significent
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- Joined: Mon Jan 03, 2011 4:24 pm
I’m thinking about buying my first mule and trying my hand at creating my own scales. I’m pretty handy so I’m hoping they won’t be too challenging. I do have a few questions:
I assume the exposed edges of the tang come polished to the same degree as the blade surface. How do you guys keep from scratching up the edge of the tang when you’re sanding down the scales to fit perfectly? Having to remove scratches in hard tool steel would seem an arduous task. Where do you get your supplies like pins and/or rivets? Will any good two-part epoxy do?
Thanks for your help.
I assume the exposed edges of the tang come polished to the same degree as the blade surface. How do you guys keep from scratching up the edge of the tang when you’re sanding down the scales to fit perfectly? Having to remove scratches in hard tool steel would seem an arduous task. Where do you get your supplies like pins and/or rivets? Will any good two-part epoxy do?
Thanks for your help.
I use gorilla glue for my wood scales. Works great.Significent wrote:I’m thinking about buying my first mule and trying my hand at creating my own scales. I’m pretty handy so I’m hoping they won’t be too challenging. I do have a few questions:
I assume the exposed edges of the tang come polished to the same degree as the blade surface. How do you guys keep from scratching up the edge of the tang when you’re sanding down the scales to fit perfectly? Having to remove scratches in hard tool steel would seem an arduous task. Where do you get your supplies like pins and/or rivets? Will any good two-part epoxy do?
Thanks for your help.
As for pins, I stock up at knife shows, but you can order them online from whoever suits you. I'm not loyal to any one person, so I can only suggest a google search.
Then regarding scratching the tang. I haven't found it to be a huge issue. I put painters tape on before gluing and leave it on through most of the sanding. Any spots that got scratched generally come out nicely after working through the finer grits as I put a polish on the handle. The heavy grits that I use to remove wood are the ones that scratch the metal, but the finer grits I use to buff the handle also work to polish the blade back up. That being said, I don't use really aggressive grits when I'm doing final shaping, so the scratches induced are not terribly deep.
Hope that helps.
Do no harm. Do know harm.
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Significent
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