PM2 Grey dyed Royal Blue

A place for you to post your pictures of Spyderco knives. Read Announcement before posting!
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

PM2 Grey dyed Royal Blue

#1

Post by wquiles »

The color came out a shade more towards purple, than the blue Rit Dye shows in their web site, but it came out alright :D

Before:
Image


After:
Image


And together with my Smurf Blue M390:
Image


And with my ZDP-189:
Image


I have a LOT more pictures of all of the steps in between, in case there is interest.

Will
OldSarSwmr
Member
Posts: 1084
Joined: Sat Jul 23, 2011 9:00 am
Location: Richmond, VA

#2

Post by OldSarSwmr »

Will,
Very nice! I like it and my wife gave a thumbs up to the purple hue :)

I'm thinking of dying my sprint Lum Tanto so if you posted the "process" pics that would be great.

Thanks,
Dan
:spyder:
Dan
fuzzydog
Member
Posts: 139
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:42 pm

I like it!

#3

Post by fuzzydog »

Love to see the process...would consider it for myself...that or a bright green...
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#4

Post by wquiles »

OK, since I can only have 10 photos per post, this will be done over several posts ...

Here is how the knife looked like before I started:
Image


With the right Torx drivers at hand, I started the careful disassembly process:
Image


Not much, but the grey scales were starting to get a little dirty:
Image


All factory screws has a thread sealer:
Image


Blade coming off:
Image

Image


Note the order/placement of the two washers:
Image


As another forum member noted before, the lanyard tube "is" flared, making removal a little difficult:
Image


I simply held one side on my bench vise and carefully went back-n-forth until I was able to get the scales off - take your time:
Image

Image
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#5

Post by wquiles »

To remove the spacers, you might need to grab them on the side opposite of the screw:
Image


Note that there are two spacers, the longer goes towards the "front" or blade side of the knife:
Image


The blade's pivot is keyed, and lightly press fit - it comes out fairly easily:
Image

Image


To remove the lanyard tube from the other side, I "gently" tap it out:
Image


You can clearly see here that the tube has both ends slightly flared outwards:
Image


Here is the completely disassembled knife. I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised at the level of fit between the parts - there was ZERO play between the hollow liners and the metal liners!:
Image
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#6

Post by wquiles »

One thing I learn when doing coatings for my custom flashlights (yes, another hobby!) is that you MUST prepare the parts well. Here I started by carefully cleaning the original scales (yet another reason I feel the correct way to dye scales is to completely remove them, assuming it is possible of course):
Image


Once you clean them well, you do NOT touch them with your bare hands - the oils/debris in your hands/skin will prevent any/all finishes from working as intended:
Image


Here the scales are clean and ready:
Image
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#7

Post by wquiles »

You then follow the instructions on the Rit Dye package, and get the water, salt, and detergent mixed and to a boiling:
Image


Add the dye slowly!!!:
Image


Keep moving the water/dye and the scales, and every 20-30 seconds take a look to see if they are "dark enough" - the longer you leave the parts, the darker the color:
Image


Once you rinse them with cold water, leave them in water for a while to completely cool off:
Image

Image


Once they are dry, they looked like this:
Image

Image
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#8

Post by wquiles »

Then reassemble the knife - try to keep the blade as centered as possible as you tighten the screws:
Image


I lightly filed the lanyard tube to achieve a nice press fit:
Image


And of course I applied thread locker to all screws:
Image


I applied Nano-Oil (10 weight) to the friction points/washers in the blade/pivot area before assembly:
Image


That is all - I hope this is helpful ;)

Will
fuzzydog
Member
Posts: 139
Joined: Sat Nov 12, 2011 4:42 pm

Thanks....

#9

Post by fuzzydog »

Need to check out the Rit colors....might need to do mine up!
User avatar
Bluntrauma
Member
Posts: 1338
Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2006 4:50 pm
Location: DFW, Texas

#10

Post by Bluntrauma »

That looks good. You are braver than I am. I am not fixing to take mine apart for nothing. Too many parts and I suck too bad at DIY. Nice color!
Sometimes you gotta kick at the darkness until it bleeds daylight.

AKA: Liveitloud on Blade Forums, USN, EDC, Benchmade forums and basically everywhere but here.
liveit_loud on Ebay.
User avatar
bh49
Member
Posts: 11466
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 12:37 pm
Location: former Constitution state

#11

Post by bh49 »

wquiles,
Thank you for sharing. Good job and great step by step instructions.
"People sleep peaceably in their beds at night only because rough men stand ready to do violence on their behalf"

My top choices Natives5, Calys, C83 Persian
User avatar
razorsharp
Member
Posts: 3069
Joined: Wed Mar 16, 2011 9:41 pm
Location: New Zealand

#12

Post by razorsharp »

Thats very nice, love it :)
wquiles
Member
Posts: 270
Joined: Fri Aug 12, 2011 10:30 pm

#13

Post by wquiles »

Thank you guys :o

Lots of pictures, but it was relatively an easy project, and I got a lot more respect for how well Spyderco holds their tolerances - I am impressed at the bang for the buck we are getting with these PM2 knives ;)

Will
User avatar
Jazz
Member
Posts: 7678
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2007 7:46 pm
Location: Alberta, Canada

#14

Post by Jazz »

You are the tutorial KING! Nice color, and I'm sure we all appreciate your efforts.

- best wishes, Jazz.
User avatar
Donut
Member
Posts: 9614
Joined: Sat Sep 05, 2009 5:47 pm
Location: Virginia Beach, VA, USA

#15

Post by Donut »

Very nice work on this thread and the Para 2.

It looks like Royal Purple.
-Brian
A distinguished lurker.
Waiting on a Squeak and Pingo with a Split Spring!
User avatar
INFRNL
Member
Posts: 599
Joined: Thu Dec 22, 2011 2:37 pm
Location: Colorado Springs, CO

#16

Post by INFRNL »

Great Job, thanks for all the details, Very well done. I think the color came out great!
CF Balance, CF Caly3 ZDP, Caly 3.5 SB, CAT 440C, Chaparral, Orange Jigged Damascus Delica, Blue Jigged Damascus Delica, BRG Delica ZDP(SOON TO BE G-10!), FG G-10 DragonFly, Gayle Bradley, 2012 Jester, H1 Ladybug Salt Hawkbill w/G-10 scales, Tan Manix 2 M4, MoonGlow Manix 2, C22CF Michael Walker, BRN Millie XHP, Native 5, PM2, All Black PM2, Gray PM2 20CP, Blue PM2 M390, Sage 1, Sage 2, Sage 4, Terzuola, CF Stretch ZDP, UKPK Drop Point
User avatar
Vanguard41xx
Member
Posts: 20
Joined: Fri Jan 06, 2012 1:33 pm
Location: Cleveland, Ohio

#17

Post by Vanguard41xx »

You did a swell job! I like the color a lot...
AfriadOfSpyders
Member
Posts: 26
Joined: Mon Nov 07, 2011 10:29 pm
Location: British Columbia, Canada

#18

Post by AfriadOfSpyders »

Very nice job, excellent tutorial as well
rg02
Member
Posts: 862
Joined: Fri Dec 09, 2011 9:52 am
Location: Colorado

#19

Post by rg02 »

Awesome tutorial! If my PM2 wasn't digi camo I would be dying it!
-Ryan

-Techno, cruwear Mule, Dragonfly 2 FRN, Assist, Endura FRN ATS-55 SE, Endura SS aus-6 PE, Persistence(Wife's)
-Wicked Edge
User avatar
Cscoop
Member
Posts: 182
Joined: Mon Mar 19, 2007 2:31 pm

#20

Post by Cscoop »

Great tutorial.
Does the RIT dye last or will it fade? Since water is used in the application of the dye I would think that it could affect it later on. Not sure.
Thanks
We would not let our people have ideas why would we let them have guns? Josef Stalin
Post Reply