Spyderco Sage Titanium questions

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TylerDurden
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Spyderco Sage Titanium questions

#1

Post by TylerDurden »

Did they make a titanium version with the first sage? Cheapest site I can find doesn't list "2" (for sage 2) anywhere. Wanted to make sure it was the latest run of this knife.

Also any other titanium frame locks out there with a 3" blade that are lefty friendly for the same price point? Reeves and Bradley are too expensive haha.

Thanks guy!
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#2

Post by rosconey »

there are 3 sages- first was carbon fiber liner lock (black) -second titanium and the 3rd is a blue bolt lock-

i have the ti version-a very well made knife-

spyderco leafstorm is also a small framelock at about the same price
TylerDurden
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#3

Post by TylerDurden »

Cool thanks! Figure it's a good knife that's legal carry, sturdy, and looks gentlemanly, while being lefty friendly.
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JNewell
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#4

Post by JNewell »

TylerDurden wrote:Cool thanks! Figure it's a good knife that's legal carry, sturdy, and looks gentlemanly, while being lefty friendly.
That's always a personal judgment, but I will confirm that I do find the Sage 2 very, very easy to use both left- and right-handed. :spyder:
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#5

Post by phillipsted »

Concur. It is a beautiful knife (actually, all three sages are fantastic - but I have a soft spot for the titanium one)

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Blerv
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#6

Post by Blerv »

Depends how you define "lefty friendly". The Sage2 seems easy to work with my left hand and I'm right hand dominant. I can only assume most left handed people wouldn't have a problem.

True left-handed friendliness for a frame or liner lock would require the lock-bar to be going the opposite direction. Since that would make the knife not as right-hand friendly most makers don't set them up that way.

I know that CRK can get you a Sebbie in left-hand configuration. It's a great tool and worth the price. The Sage2 just so happens to be a VERY well made manufactured knife thus the price reflects this.
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JNewell
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#7

Post by JNewell »

Speaking for myself again, as a left-primary user, I find that many framelocks and linerlocks are actually anywhere from very easy to "easy enough" to use with either hand. The ones that work really well are the ones with generous cutouts for the lockbar, such as the Military, Sage 2 and the Classic and 21 Sebenzas. The ones that don't work well are the ones with limited cutouts, like the "regular" Sebenza, the Umnumzaan and some others. For some reason I can't explain, I find the Gayle Bradley very easy to use with either hand even though it should be hard with either hand.
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Jackson
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#8

Post by Jackson »

JNewell wrote:Speaking for myself again, as a left-primary user, I find that many framelocks and linerlocks are actually anywhere from very easy to "easy enough" to use with either hand. The ones that work really well are the ones with generous cutouts for the lockbar, such as the Military, Sage 2 and the Classic and 21 Sebenzas. The ones that don't work well are the ones with limited cutouts, like the "regular" Sebenza, the Umnumzaan and some others. For some reason I can't explain, I find the Gayle Bradley very easy to use with either hand even though it should be hard with either hand.
I'm a lefty and I feel the same way.

The Sage 2 is a beautiful knife, my favorite of the 3 sages (although they are all great). I doubt you will find much comparable to it at that price.
TylerDurden
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#9

Post by TylerDurden »

So got the knife, love it, but it seems to open much stiffer than I had anticipated. Is this just a case of "it'll loosen up" after I use it a few days?

blade feels about twice the resistance on opening as a benchmade mini griptillian I have
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#10

Post by kawr »

TylerDurden wrote:So got the knife, love it, but it seems to open much stiffer than I had anticipated. Is this just a case of "it'll loosen up" after I use it a few days?

blade feels about twice the resistance on opening as a benchmade mini griptillian I have
All axis locks are going to be inherently quicker and smoother to deploy. My sage 2 smoothed out perfectly but as a framelock it will never be quite like an axis lock that has zero resistance pushing against the blade like a frame/liner lock does.
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JNewell
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#11

Post by JNewell »

TylerDurden wrote:So got the knife, love it, but it seems to open much stiffer than I had anticipated. Is this just a case of "it'll loosen up" after I use it a few days?

blade feels about twice the resistance on opening as a benchmade mini griptillian I have
Pivot might need a micro-drop of oil, or possibly loosening of the pivot screw if it doesn't loosen up pretty quickly in use.
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#12

Post by Michael Janich »

One thing to bear in mind--especially if you're new to frame locks/Reeve Integral Locks--is to may attention to your grip during one-handed openings. Since the lock bar is exposed, many folks inadvertently grip the handle with their fingertips pressing on it. That pressure drives the ball bearing detent into its hole in the blade with much greater force than the spring pressure alone. That makes the opening pressure exerted with your thumb on the blade seem outrageous.

Focus your grip on the clip and the solid portion of the handle (not the lock bar) and your problem may be solved.

Stay safe,

Mike
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The Mentaculous
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#13

Post by The Mentaculous »

Excellent point, Mr. Janich! I just got my Sage 2 earlier this week (completing my Sage collection :D ), and have still been getting use to it and working out my grip. At first I even had trouble closing it one-handed because I would have a hard time not putting grip pressure on the lock bar.

Making a conscious effort not to do the same thing while opening, it feels much smoother than it was before! Voila! Now it's almost as smooth as my Chokwe and Sage 1

PS-I know it's a silly reason to like a certain lock, but I really really love the sound of a Ti R.I.L. lockbar clicking into place! It just seems to have more depth and resonance compared to any other locking mechanism. Like I said, I know it's silly, but it's really satisfying to feel and hear that sound. I'm really digging the Ti integral locks since getting the Chokwe last month.
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#14

Post by TylerDurden »

JNewell wrote:Pivot might need a micro-drop of oil, or possibly loosening of the pivot screw if it doesn't loosen up pretty quickly in use.

what kind or brand of oil? (online order link would be gravy too).
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#15

Post by kawr »

TylerDurden wrote:what kind or brand of oil? (online order link would be gravy too).
Any oil works fine from what I've seen with Spydercos. WD40, mineral oil, 3-1, rem oil to name just a few. Stick with mineral oil if you use your knife for food.
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Blerv
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#16

Post by Blerv »

Miltec-1
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JNewell
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#17

Post by JNewell »

TylerDurden wrote:what kind or brand of oil? (online order link would be gravy too).
Virtually anything that won't turn into plaque. Any gun, bicycle or machine oil should be fine. Automobile products have a lot of special purpose additives so I'd skip them.
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#18

Post by bada61265 »

after a bit of use and trying both i think rem oil and break free both are excellent folder lubes. i use it sparingly and only on the pivot wiping off excess. break free is great for keeping rust at bay. been using it on firearms for years and it works well for that so i use it every so often on my GB m4 steel. i dont compare a gravity drop looseness to a liner/frame lock. with a proper flick it should open just as fast but the design is limited. with the detent dragging theres always going to be some friction. and of course you want some as its the only think in the design holding the blade closed.
my knives:
kershaw Leek Buck 119 Cold Steel Recon tanto
Cold Steel Ti Lite VI ,
Spyderco: Tenacious ,Persistence, Endura 4 blue Stretch zdp blue, Manix 2 ,Native s30v . Sage2 titanium, Gayle Bradly cpm m4, Muleteam mt 10, woodcraft mule s30v. Orange Delica 4
Bark River PSK 154cm, Gunny, Bravo 2, Canadian Special
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