Sorry guys, I will keep you boring with my mule-projects. Sunday I showed you the white ash kitchen BD1, the very same day I made a rosewood aogami. Made up my mind on this Just finished it handfilling and sanding it.
It is the first rosewood I use and it is a wonderful wood! The wood is hard, a little oily (less than coco and letterwood) and has a wild but somewhat irregular flaming. It reactes good and firm on sawing, filing and sanding.
Being pale pink untreated it turned bright orange after a 600 grit sandpaper and a cooked lineseed-oil treatment. It almost sound like a wellness-treatment
The scales are epoxied on the blade and srewed with Corbies. The glue prevents any moist or unwanted substances creep under the scales and start a start a hidden rustbrown rash. As usual I added 6 mm (5mm inside) brass lanyard-tubing. On this mule I used two rivets/screws. I think that it enough for a mule. three is a little overdone.
Sit back and enjoy, more pics to come...
Tomas
Aogami rosewood mule
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phillipsted
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Thanks fellows, compare my first and second aogami. Three and two screws.
It can be done of course, but I guess two is enough...
The point is that you pick the right holes and make the distances between the screws right. I think it has a great influence on the final looks.
It can be done of course, but I guess two is enough...
The point is that you pick the right holes and make the distances between the screws right. I think it has a great influence on the final looks.
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Tom
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DeathBySnooSnoo
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ChapmanPreferred
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Well, building handles isn´t really that difficult. The first thing is to find a nice piece of wood that is absolutely crackfree.
Then I continue with making the rounded edges on the two scales near the ricasso because once installed you cannot reach those edges anymore.
Next is drilling the first hole, pin it, then drill the other holes. I pin every next hole I drill and drill straight through the tangholes. A drillpress is a huge advantage. Then I take the scales off, pin them together and make sure those rounded front edges I discussed are even.
Make sure that when you use Corbyscrews to drill the countersunk second hole at the correct depth; not to deep but certain that the female part goes through scale one, the blade into scale two touching the male screw! Make sure that the countersunk holes for the Corbies are not tight at all to avoid stress in the wood. When there is stress and you start chopping or putting force on the handle you can imagine the wood is prone to crack! This step is important. When you finally epoxy the scales on it the Corbies and the lanyardhole-tube are sunk in exopy. Any excess epoxy can be sanded away in finishing the handle. Use more than enough epoxy!
Maybe I will make a picture-tutorial in making wooden scales in the near future.
Cheers guys,
Tomas
Then I continue with making the rounded edges on the two scales near the ricasso because once installed you cannot reach those edges anymore.
Next is drilling the first hole, pin it, then drill the other holes. I pin every next hole I drill and drill straight through the tangholes. A drillpress is a huge advantage. Then I take the scales off, pin them together and make sure those rounded front edges I discussed are even.
Make sure that when you use Corbyscrews to drill the countersunk second hole at the correct depth; not to deep but certain that the female part goes through scale one, the blade into scale two touching the male screw! Make sure that the countersunk holes for the Corbies are not tight at all to avoid stress in the wood. When there is stress and you start chopping or putting force on the handle you can imagine the wood is prone to crack! This step is important. When you finally epoxy the scales on it the Corbies and the lanyardhole-tube are sunk in exopy. Any excess epoxy can be sanded away in finishing the handle. Use more than enough epoxy!
Maybe I will make a picture-tutorial in making wooden scales in the near future.
Cheers guys,
Tomas
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- Ash Mule 038.jpg (89.21 KiB) Viewed 2130 times
Tom
put blue painters tape on the blade and you can handle it safely
I use rubber tape. I guess it is not vulcanized, because once you stick it together I won't come loose. It is ideal because the edge won't cut through once applied. Taping is to protect yourself but also protect the polish of the blade. The mules come razorsharp and it is absolute neccesary to cover the sharp egde. Especially when using spinning machines like a drillpress, grinder or polishingwheel.
The correct name for the wood I used on this mule is Dalbergia fructescense It is in english translated as rosewood or tulipwood. Don't mix it up with cocobolo; it seems to be related, but is not the same.
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I use rubber tape. I guess it is not vulcanized, because once you stick it together I won't come loose. It is ideal because the edge won't cut through once applied. Taping is to protect yourself but also protect the polish of the blade. The mules come razorsharp and it is absolute neccesary to cover the sharp egde. Especially when using spinning machines like a drillpress, grinder or polishingwheel.
The correct name for the wood I used on this mule is Dalbergia fructescense It is in english translated as rosewood or tulipwood. Don't mix it up with cocobolo; it seems to be related, but is not the same.
<:{{{{{>
Tom