SE vs PE for all does one...

[Joshua J.]

I got a black, fully serrated SS ATR way back when, and it ruined my perception of serrated blades.
That thing has teeth like a shark, getting it to slice anything was next to impossible. Worse still, The ATR has a V ground tip, and the serrations are chisel ground, making it impossible for a slice to transition from teeth to tip.

Then I got a serrated E4W (Waved), figuring serrations were appropriate for the knife. Turns out the serrations on the Endura are smooth, easy going teeth with no tearing in a cut, and the tip is chisel ground to match the teeth.
It was an eye opening experience.
Now I have a SE ZDP-189 E4, and find almost no advantage in using the PE version.

So it really depends on the knife, some knives are not set up well for serrations.

[jezabel]

1. If you're going to slice things, use a PE
2. If you're going to rip things apart, use an SE

Really??
IMO SE knives are at their very best when slicing.
PE when your push cutting.

I got a black, fully serrated SS ATR way back when, and it ruined my perception of serrated blades.
That thing has teeth like a shark, getting it to slice anything was next to impossible. Worse still, The ATR has a V ground tip, and the serrations are chisel ground, making it impossible for a slice to transition from teeth to tip.

Then I got a serrated E4W (Waved), figuring serrations were appropriate for the knife. Turns out the serrations on the Endura are smooth, easy going teeth with no tearing in a cut, and the tip is chisel ground to match the teeth.
It was an eye opening experience.
Now I have a SE ZDP-189 E4, and find almost no advantage in using the PE version.

So it really depends on the knife, some knives are not set up well for serrations.

I'm glad you persevered, and found a model which works for you. It just goes to show how well the serrations perform can depend on the blade grind and shape.

I've had similar experiences with the ATR, yet after rounding the serrations off a little it became much more user friendly. Light pressure when cutting is the key with aggressively ground teeth.

Have you had any problems with the SE ground ZDP when used for aggressive cuts? I've been "eyeing' up both the Emerson and ZDP SE Endura's lately. Although I really do prefer FFG SE blades.

Jez

[Jay_Ev]

I love fully serrated blades and it is a shame Spyderco seems to be moving away from them as of late. It was great when a large portion of their catalog was offered in both edge types, now that isn't as common. Even odd knives, like the Dodo had PE & SE options, yet today, a knife like the Para2 which appeals to a wider group of knife users is only offered PE. I bet in another 2 or 3 years the only serrated blades in Spyderco's lineup will be Rescue blades.

[Dr. Snubnose]

PE for SD as the serration will catch up on clothing...I like SE for general tasks, I also like CE as well for general tasks...Fact is I carry all three types always and use all three types depending on what I'm doing, so it's a non issue for me....Doc :D

[Samwise]

I carry a PE Manix2 as my primary utility knife, with an SE Delica3 in my watch pocket. I find myself using the Manix much more, although there have been several occasions when I'm glad I had the Delica on me.

So my advice would be to get both.

[defenestrate]

I basically do the same thing as samwise, only it's a PE Manix2 in RFP as primary and SE Spyderhawk Salt LFP. The hawkbill + serration combination is pretty much peerless for quickly separating matter, especially at arms' length or in difficult to reach spaces, and the Manix 2 is just a soolid all -around cutter.

[JBE]

This is like asking 9mm vs. .45.....

Having owned and used both for a number of years, I'd strongly recommend PE for all-around general usage...

[THG]

Really??
IMO SE knives are at their very best when slicing.
PE when your push cutting.

I had an SE Caly 3 which snagged like a sucker when I cut cardboard. It ripped through weeds easily, though.

[VicVega]

I love the serrated, the Spyderco pattern is sweet. The serrations are an important feature of Spyderco knives as well. Anyone can make a plane blade..

It looks good, cuts good, what else do you need. It think it is overall more useful for it can handle a new range of tasks without compromising its cutting performance. I feel like its perfect because it can get mostly any cutting task done.

Its sad to see the se Mili and Para go.. don't take away the se Delica or Police please!

[Blerv]

You can still shave paper with SE. In fact, most my SE knives shave for MUCH longer than PE because I can isolate the particular scallop that is the sharpest.

There is merit to both blade grinds. Still, SE is far from a wood saw in design.

[Teddy Thompson]

Anyone who believes SE can do anything PE can do should try shaving with one. :eek:

[marlinspike]

and nothing that can be done with a serrated blade that a plain one cannot do.

Can't cut into thick hard plastic or a tree limb with a plain edge. If I could only have one knife, it would be a large one that had a combo edge.

[SQSAR]

I agree, If you have a Spyderco Sharpmaker, the maintenance of a SE is a mute point, so it comes down to what you want to use your knife for. To each his own I say. However, here are a few points that have just occurred to me: A surgeons' scalpel isn't SE. The razor you use in the morning isn't SE. A samurai sword isn't SE. A machete isn't SE. The venerable Kabar (the classic version) isn't SE. Andy Griffin didn't whittle on his front porch in Mayberry with a SE, and I challenge anyone to find a SE light-saber.

In the end, there's a lot more that a PE can do, that a SE can't. Or, might it be better to say: There are a lot more things that a PE can do 'better' than a SE can, and far fewer things that a SE can do better than a PE.

[Joshua J.]

Have you had any problems with the SE ground ZDP when used for aggressive cuts? I've been "eyeing' up both the Emerson and ZDP SE Endura's lately. Although I really do prefer FFG SE blades.

Jez

I've never cut rubber hose or plastic tube, so I can't comment on how much it binds compared with PE for stuff like that. I did shred a bunch of cardboard though. The first 200 feet were pretty smooth, and it took about 400 feet before the edge was noticeably dulled.
Of course you can go longer, but I personally would re-sharpen at that point.
Speaking of which, I find it best to use a benchstone to raise a burr and just knock it off with the Sharpmaker, then strop on the corner of a 2x4.
I stroke the Sharpmaker rod and strop the same way as a PE edge, just alternating directions (heel to tip, tip to heel) to get both sides of the scallops.

[The Deacon]

Can't cut into thick hard plastic or a tree limb with a plain edge.

Sure I can. I've cut thick styrene, plexi and lexan with PE blades when building models and I find they work better on branches and tough vines than serrations.

[redhawk44357]

I carry each one....so i have a choice depending on the job.

[marlinspike]

Sure I can. I've cut thick styrene, plexi and lexan with PE blades when building models and I find they work better on branches and tough vines than serrations.

I use my plain edges for model making too, but I've come up against much harder plastics that serrated edges work on that no plain edge will touch.

[phillipsted]

I own several PEs, CEs, and SEs. I always end up carrying my PEs much more frequently - they just seem to be more appropriate for the tasks I deal with.

Like everyone says -it really is personal preference...

TedP

[chasis]

I carry both. Most of the time I use the PE but when the job calls for it I'm **** happy I have the SE.