How do you sharpen?

[Rhiney]

Interesting discussion. I use the Sharpmaker, an Arkansas stone or water stones freehand. The only thing I'd add that nobody else has mentioned is an excellent 0.5 micron stropping compound made by Lee Valley, that can be used on a wheel or a hand-strop. It gives a really nice final polish: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,43072

Cheers.

[Simple Man]

Like this \/,

Yep, it's good stuff. I've got it on a hand strop and a 1 x 30 leather belt also.

1 x 30 Harbor Freight belt sander w/ many Lee Valley Belts
3 strops (Lee Valley green, MAAS, plain)
Sandpaper, various grits
Sharpmaker
Couple diamond sharpeners
Lansky dogbone - field

In order of use :p

[dialex]

Considering where this is posted, I think you forgot one very important category, jigs like the Sharpmaker. To me, there's a big difference between freehand and jig sharpening, even if both ultimately involve stones.

As for me, I use DMT diamond stones.

Correct Paul, this is the reason why I couldn't answer just "stones"... usually I use the 204.

[ChapmanPreferred]

I use all of those methods except magic. :)

[Slick]

Sharpmaker has already been mentioned but don't forget the Lansky. May as well throw in the Edge Pro as well. All three are popular.

...Edge Pro, strops and sandpaper for convexed blades. I have yet to get a sharpmaker. The set up on the the Edge Pro takes seconds and is not an issue. The strops are almost useless for my needs. My favorite edge is sharpened Edge Pro FF then roughed up with the medium stone. VW has the best instructions on how to do this with a sharpmaker.

edit: Oh yeah, I used to use a bit of Linde -A on my jeans to polish the edge and break the burr but I've sliced my pants occationally. Now I stick to the Edge Pro or strops. My father was good with a grinding wheel and always finished by stroping on a dirty pant leg. The silica/clay took the place of black or green goop. I did not inherit his skills but the Edge Pro gives me a fighting chance.

BTW, my father was a tool grinder in a forge shop for years.

Can't argue with that!

[Slick]

Interesting discussion. I use the Sharpmaker, an Arkansas stone or water stones freehand. The only thing I'd add that nobody else has mentioned is an excellent 0.5 micron stropping compound made by Lee Valley, that can be used on a wheel or a hand-strop. It gives a really nice final polish: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx ... at=1,43072

Cheers.

I do not need a final polish. Polished edges just skate instead of cut in my line of work.

I am blue collar and not fine edged.

[Slick]

Sharpmaker mostly, or a Sieger long life artificial ruby rod, works like a charm

I'd guess the ruby stone is ruby embeded? Ruby is not nearly as hard as diamond burt harder than anything else. A real ruby stone would be very cool but VERY expensive. <giggle>

BTW, I have a few small raw bits of man made ruby and they are hard stuff. They rubies scratch glass like it was plastic. The rubies even scratch quartz easily and the quartz easily scatches soda glass.

All hail to the rubies. They are also pretty and extemely red.

Garnets do not even come close.

[vampyrewolf]

Yeah, improvisation all the way! Don't forget a newspaper and your belt if it's leather.

When i have it at hand, I use a Fallkniven DC4 diamond/ceramic stone.

My buddy looked at me odd when I hit a staple with my kris... used my closed multitool to realign the edge.

I've always followed "if it worked, it wasn't stupid" :p you'd actually be surprised the edge you can get off a car window

[rlw1979777]

Freehand only. Love the Sharpmaker rods, but hate the sharpmaker... Taught myself long ago how to do it without anything. Never even owned a sharpmaker actually. Just the rods.

[JD Spydo]

I've tried many kit sharpeners over the years and there is just none better than the 204 Sharpmaker.

The Edge Pro in my opinion is the best high end, commercial grade blade sharpener on the market.

However for hard core sharpening enthusiasts such as myself I don't think you'll ever see benchstones disappear from the landscape. Spyderco's 302 benchstones are great.

Now for all purpose sharpening including working on serrated Spyderedged blades I declare that the Spyderco 701 Profiles are truly a superb tool.

Sharpening is truly an art. And Spyderco is the number one company to provide you with the necessary tools.

[RIOT]

i use a free stone that Knifecenter sent me with a decent sized purchase.

[kbuzbee]

The Edge Pro in my opinion is the best high end, commercial grade blade sharpener on the market.

For you Edge Pro users out there.... How small of an angle can you set? That is really my only issue with the SM (and yes, I know you can work around it several different ways, just asking....)

Ken

[kbuzbee]

...a Sieger long life artificial ruby rod, works like a charm

Correct me if I'm wrong but aren't Sal's ceramics embedded with synthetic rubies??

Anyone know if they are all the way through or just on the surface??

Ken

[skatenut]

Originally Posted by skatenut
Sharpmaker mostly, or a Sieger long life artificial ruby rod, works like a charm

I'd guess the ruby stone is ruby embeded? Ruby is not nearly as hard as diamond burt harder than anything else. A real ruby stone would be very cool but VERY expensive. <giggle>

BTW, I have a few small raw bits of man made ruby and they are hard stuff. They rubies scratch glass like it was plastic. The rubies even scratch quartz easily and the quartz easily scatches soda glass.

All hail to the rubies. They are also pretty and extemely red.

Garnets do not even come close.

Slick,

it's a rod of sintered ruby, mainly aluminum oxide plus some chromium oxide for the red color according to the website. A threaded rod going through the ruby rod links tip and handle. It's not embedded ruby, it's solid ruby except for the hole for the threaded rod going through it, approx. 14 mm diameter, the hole is approx.7 mm. It is actually called sintered-ruby, Sinterrubin.

Böker has the plain version:

http://boker.de/index.php?c=3000

got mine from an Austrian knifeshop:

280 mm long, cocobolo handle, 100 Euros, money well spent

http://www.dasmesser.at/scharf.htm

http://dasmesser.at/PDFs/abziehstaehle.pdf

try a translator program on the website and on the pfd.

It removes metal very quickly, it cleans easily just like the sharpmaker, often only using water and a scotchbrite pad. I really like mine very much, works very well on thin kitchen knives, a few strokes and they become very sharp again, provided they were not too dull in the first place. However, being cautious, would not suggest dropping it on a hard floor such as stone or tiles.

[bladese97]

I use the Sharpmaker, not only because I feel it's the best system, but because I've tried at free handing with DMT's, and benchstones, and little success!!! Not having steady hands does'nt help though.

John

[Cheygriz]

Edge-Pro for everything. :p

[telemeister]

Definitely the Sharpmaker for me - Medium grit rods, then fine and sometimes even ultra-fine.

[Ookami]

I use different benchstones freehand. Only sometimes the sharpmaker for serrations.


Ookami
________
BUILDING

[Billy]

I checked other since I use the SM but did not see an option for that one.

[THG]

I used DMT 6x2 Diasharp stones. I use my Sharpmaker as a stand :D

And I do use the Sharpmaker to sharpen my serrated knives (or knife, rather).