Satin vs. Black Blade
Satin vs. Black Blade
What are the advantages of one over another? Specifically on a S30v blade. Does the black finish offer a lot more corrosion resistance? Does the black wear off easily with use? Is it purely aesthetic?
Others will be more knowledgeable about this, but here goes:
First, it depends on the type of coating. A painted-on coating will not be as durable as DLC.
"DLC", which I believe is an acronym for Diamond Like Carbon, is very durable. I'm not sure of the rockwell hardness, but it's pretty high. I'd say the rule of thumb would be that, if it will actually scratch the blade, it will gouge up the DLC.
I think "DLC" is a generic term, and the actual 'coating' may have different chemical composition. I've seen/handled tungsten DLC, and the tungsten, with RC of something like 70, is waaay harder to scratch than most knife steels. There are other types, Titanium Aluminum Nitride is impervious to salt water corrosion.
One question I have, thinking about it: Since heat is presumably required for DLC application, can that screw up the heat-treat of a blade? Not sure what temperatures DLC is performed at.
Oh, and the short answer: "Depends"
First, it depends on the type of coating. A painted-on coating will not be as durable as DLC.
"DLC", which I believe is an acronym for Diamond Like Carbon, is very durable. I'm not sure of the rockwell hardness, but it's pretty high. I'd say the rule of thumb would be that, if it will actually scratch the blade, it will gouge up the DLC.
I think "DLC" is a generic term, and the actual 'coating' may have different chemical composition. I've seen/handled tungsten DLC, and the tungsten, with RC of something like 70, is waaay harder to scratch than most knife steels. There are other types, Titanium Aluminum Nitride is impervious to salt water corrosion.
One question I have, thinking about it: Since heat is presumably required for DLC application, can that screw up the heat-treat of a blade? Not sure what temperatures DLC is performed at.
Oh, and the short answer: "Depends"
Black looks nice, few advantages however
In spite of the fact that most stainless blade steels are somewhat corrosion resistant doesn't mean that they are completely corrosion free>>> with of course the possible exception of the hard use H-1 blade steel. I personally like the looks of Spyderco's black coated blades. Other than additional corrosion resistance I can't say there are any functional advantages to the coating but they sure look nice.
However you can add superb corrosion resistance to any satin steel blade by merely giving it and good rub down with Marine Grade TUF-Cloth by Sentry Solutions.
I now deeply regret trading away the last black-bladed Temperance 1 model I had. But I guess it doesn't matter because as hard as I use my Temp 1 blades I would have probably destroyed the coating in due time anyway :o
However you can add superb corrosion resistance to any satin steel blade by merely giving it and good rub down with Marine Grade TUF-Cloth by Sentry Solutions.
I now deeply regret trading away the last black-bladed Temperance 1 model I had. But I guess it doesn't matter because as hard as I use my Temp 1 blades I would have probably destroyed the coating in due time anyway :o
-
ChapmanPreferred
- Member
- Posts: 2342
- Joined: Fri Sep 24, 2004 10:33 am
- Location: PA, USA
- Contact:
I feel in some materials a little more drag with the coated blades when compared to the satin/uncoated in the same model. Not a significant difference.
SFO Alumni/Authorized Spyderco Dealer (Startup)
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
Work EDC List
FRP: Nisjin Cricket PE, Manbug PE, Dragonfly PE
FLP: SS Cricket SE, byrd Flatbyrd CE
BRP: CF Military S90V
BLP: Forum S110V Native
[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
It just looks cool.
Tacti-cool!
Tacti-cool!
Oderint Dum Metuant - Let them hate, so long as they fear.
:spyder:'s - I have sincerely now lost count.
http://www.spydiewiki.com/
http://spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/glossary.php
:spyder:'s - I have sincerely now lost count.
http://www.spydiewiki.com/
http://spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/glossary.php
Honestly I feel it offers no advantage and thus have never purchased a "coated" blade. IMO, if you buy a folder of quality steel and perform routine cleaning and maintenance on it, then the benefits are almost nil.
I guess even though I think they look "kinda cool" I find that they are bit too mall ninja-ish for me.
I guess even though I think they look "kinda cool" I find that they are bit too mall ninja-ish for me.
Jason
I think there's a place for the coatings, especially with some types of steels (higher carbon). I happen to live in a pretty damp, rainy place, and I spend some time in temperate coastal rain forest, and such an environment will tear up even a 'stainless' steel pretty fast (but not H1 and not coated blades). S30V is, as I understand it 'pretty' stainless, which means it will rust in time. If you're in a marine environment, probably should go for the coating, just my opinion. If you're in the desert, no need for it.
Careful maintenance of course counteracts corrosion, tuf-cloth is great stuff too. I'm biased by the rainy place I live, this means I use H1 or at least partially (under handle slabs) coated blades. Coated H1 is silly unless you have some kind of military-like reason not to want reflection, coating anything else -may- make sense for someone.
Careful maintenance of course counteracts corrosion, tuf-cloth is great stuff too. I'm biased by the rainy place I live, this means I use H1 or at least partially (under handle slabs) coated blades. Coated H1 is silly unless you have some kind of military-like reason not to want reflection, coating anything else -may- make sense for someone.