I just got my Manix 2 Monday (7/20/09) I believe. I am still breaking it in and I got something on the blade and pivot so I was washing the blade with hot water. The next day I believe I was putting some lubricate in the pivot and lock and now the blade seems to jiggly a bit in the closed position from side to side but the detent is still solid. When I close the blade it makes a tin sound that it did not make before, at least that I noticed. When the blades is closed it does not really touch the liners which is good and when it is locked open it is still rock solid with no blade play in either direction. My questions are 1) did I do something wrong here? & 2) is anyone else having the issue? My initial thought was that when I lubricated the lock and pivot I replaced heavy grease with a much lighter lubricant (Rem-DriLube) which made these changes. Any ideas?
BTW I love this knife it is an amazing value for the money, the fit and finish are amazing and this knife is a must have IMO. I would not call what I am experiencing a problem, it is most likely something I did wrong and in no way should discourage someone from purchasing this amazing knife.
Thanks in advance for the help
Manix 2 Questions
It is possible to move the blade of almost any knife in the closed/opening position from side to side (and most in the locked position). The M2 has almost no (if none at all) play at lock. The main thing that most people look for is a centered blade at closed but it's mostly for aesthetics as long as it clears the handle w/o interference when closing.theCuttingEdge wrote:I just got my Manix 2 Monday (7/20/09) I believe. I am still breaking it in and I got something on the blade and pivot so I was washing the blade with hot water. The next day I believe I was putting some lubricate in the pivot and lock and now the blade seems to jiggly a bit in the closed position from side to side but the detent is still solid. When I close the blade it makes a tin sound that it did not make before, at least that I noticed. When the blades is closed it does not really touch the liners which is good and when it is locked open it is still rock solid with no blade play in either direction. My questions are 1) did I do something wrong here? & 2) is anyone else having the issue? My initial thought was that when I lubricated the lock and pivot I replaced heavy grease with a much lighter lubricant (Rem-DriLube) which made these changes. Any ideas?
BTW I love this knife it is an amazing value for the money, the fit and finish are amazing and this knife is a must have IMO. I would not call what I am experiencing a problem, it is most likely something I did wrong and in no way should discourage someone from purchasing this amazing knife.
Thanks in advance for the help
I can't recall the "tin" sound between detent and closed but know part of the blade rubs the ball bearing so there is metal-on-metal contact. This coupled with the pressure of the spring could be making that sound but it doesn't seem *too* much out of the ordinary. The knife is built like a tank as you have said and has serious detent/locking power by nature.
My initial thought, without seeing the knife, is that it's more of a placebo effect than anything. It should survive a hurricane let alone some hot water :) . If in doubt, bring it to a Spyderco authorized knife shop and show some person who knows something about knives. At least you will have a second opinion.
Welcome to the forum!
Edit: I don't have my M2 on me now but recall that snapping the blade shut causes the choil/stop of the blade to hit the stop pretty hard. This metal/metal contact might very well be the sound and if so is perfectly normal.
My blade jiggles a bit in the closed position too, and I think this is normal.
I had the tin sound you're talking about too for a while right after I lubricated it one time, but I don't remember what it was. It's definitely something with the lock though. I think that either the ball isn't turning right, or something got messed up with your spring. If I were you, I would take the knife apart and then re-lubricate the lock again, especially the ball. If you have the torx drivers, this isn't a big deal. I found that the easiest thing to do with this knife is to just take one handle scale off, because the lock will still be attached to the other scale so you won't lose all of the pieces. You might also have to take the blade off to get better access to the ball, I don't remember.. but in order to do this, you have to take both pivot screws out because the tolerances are very good and it is hard to just slide the blade off of the pivot without doing that. I wouldn't take the knife apart any more than this, though... that is, leave the backspacer attached to one of the handle scales. It is pretty hard to get everything back together if you take it apart completely, because you have to get the screws in while keeping the lock under tension and keeping the spring straight.
I used regular rem-oil to lubricate mine, and it seems to work fine... I agree, a little heavier oil might be a bit better for the ball (I'm not sure what was on there originally), but I got mine working fairly well with just rem-oil. The ball still sticks on mine when I disengage the lock but it doesn't seem to grind anywhere, which is the important thing. I generally take the knife apart as I described above, then I wipe all of the parts clean and lubricate them as I put them together. I also put some oil on the contact between the ball and the blade, and a bunch of oil on the ball and on the plastic cage.
Hope this helps, my post got a bit long-winded there...
I had the tin sound you're talking about too for a while right after I lubricated it one time, but I don't remember what it was. It's definitely something with the lock though. I think that either the ball isn't turning right, or something got messed up with your spring. If I were you, I would take the knife apart and then re-lubricate the lock again, especially the ball. If you have the torx drivers, this isn't a big deal. I found that the easiest thing to do with this knife is to just take one handle scale off, because the lock will still be attached to the other scale so you won't lose all of the pieces. You might also have to take the blade off to get better access to the ball, I don't remember.. but in order to do this, you have to take both pivot screws out because the tolerances are very good and it is hard to just slide the blade off of the pivot without doing that. I wouldn't take the knife apart any more than this, though... that is, leave the backspacer attached to one of the handle scales. It is pretty hard to get everything back together if you take it apart completely, because you have to get the screws in while keeping the lock under tension and keeping the spring straight.
I used regular rem-oil to lubricate mine, and it seems to work fine... I agree, a little heavier oil might be a bit better for the ball (I'm not sure what was on there originally), but I got mine working fairly well with just rem-oil. The ball still sticks on mine when I disengage the lock but it doesn't seem to grind anywhere, which is the important thing. I generally take the knife apart as I described above, then I wipe all of the parts clean and lubricate them as I put them together. I also put some oil on the contact between the ball and the blade, and a bunch of oil on the ball and on the plastic cage.
Hope this helps, my post got a bit long-winded there...
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theCuttingEdge
- Member
- Posts: 11
- Joined: Fri Dec 19, 2008 5:02 am
Wow, quick response guys. Thanks. I think you are both right in that it is just in my head. More than anything else I was seeing if anyone had the same situation. You are also both right in that it is a tank, a great value, and one heck of a knife. I am VERY pleased and these minor "issues" were only on my mind because I thought I messed something up, but it is probably just a placebo, as you mentioned.
I also have an Endura 4 CE, Caly 3 G10 PE, Tenacious PE and some others but this Manix 2 is by far my favorite and will be in my pocket 24/7 for a long time. I still cannot get over the value of the knife and its great cutting performance.
Thanks guys and I am eagerly awaiting the Chokwe and I am considering a Salt 1 SE.
I also have an Endura 4 CE, Caly 3 G10 PE, Tenacious PE and some others but this Manix 2 is by far my favorite and will be in my pocket 24/7 for a long time. I still cannot get over the value of the knife and its great cutting performance.
Thanks guys and I am eagerly awaiting the Chokwe and I am considering a Salt 1 SE.
Mine is kinda of loose from the closed position up to the lock position. Once mine is locked, it's tight. I tried to tighten the fittings but they were already tight. I figure it was inherent but as long as it didn't hit the liners, it's ok. I'm just wondering are there some out there that don't show wiggle from closed to open position? :confused:
I can move my blade a bit from side to side on my Manix2 when closed. I think this is normal. I used to use Rem oil on my knives till I read other forum members were using mineral oil. I think I am going back to Rem oil because mineral oil is so messy. As long as your blade doesn't wiggle when locked open , I think you are ok.