Why not more Etched handles?

DMgangl · #1

While trying to find a good way to improve the grip of my Endura SS I thought about how nice it would be to have an Etched handle Endura. I finally got a chance to talk to my boss and he said the next time we get an order of molds to ship to Custom Etch he is gonna try to slip it in with the order in January. Now that I now this I am going to try and get a Harpy before then and see if I can get both done.

But this brings me to my question and title of this thread. Of the 8 knives I count currently on the list with a good SS handle to get etched only 3 actually get it. I know it is expensive to get done and that it would increase the cost of the knife. But if it IMO makes the knife look better and increases the grip of the SS handle why not? I know I would love to have a Harpy, Endura, and Ladybug with Etched handles. I plan on buying a etched cricket and dragonfly after Christmas.

DM

Th232 · #2

I was curious about the choice of knives Spyderco chose to have etched handles as well (Cricket, D'fly and Spin). While I can understand that retention would be a bigger issue on the smaller knives, does anyone know why they didn't choose to have etched versions of the Endura (and Delica for that matter)? I thought that those would've been the "testbed" models to do it on.

ozspyder · #3

Interesting question...but here is my take on it.

Large knives have a fair bit of handle that you can bear down on.... more surface area under contact with your skin should increase grip :)

Small knives are usually not used to do much else but light tasks requiring minimal force in the grip. Finger gripping usually suffices.

However the realm of slightly larger LBKs like the Spin, D'Fly and Cricket which are often called upon to do quite arduous tasks such as ripping open clampacks, cardboard boxes etc I suppose helps in giving a tad more grip without changing the feel too much.

Personally I don't really like the etched look of the wriggly worms scrawled all over a nice S/S knife. If I wanted grippier surface I would get a G10 or FRN version. I like my S/S nice and shiny and also so that I can see scratches when they get used a bit more.

ClockWork · #4

I would love to see more etched knives.

Particularly the Lava.

The Police would also be nice.

-Clock
:)

dwong · #5

etched kiwi...and the kopa too :)

ozspyder · #6

dwong wrote:etched kiwi...and the kopa too :)

Ummm, sorry mate, with all due respect to you.... I would really hate to see this happen. Those two should not be etched, EVER :eek: maybe not in the finish with the silvery worms as seen on the D'Fly in any case. But this may appeal to some people though. Just that I can't see this being the No.1 suggestion from the current majority of Kopa collectors :o

ClockWork · #7

I really like the worm pattern.

Makes it unique

The Deacon · #8

Seems it has not gone over all that well, since the etched version one of one of the models offered that way was dropped for 2009. Am kind of surprised that all three models they tried it on were relatively small. The reaction to a larger model might be better (or, of course, worse).

As for me, not much interest in all stainless models, etched or otherwise, anymore and it's not something I'd want to see on bolsters, but would be happy to see an etched "re-run" of the all stainless Kiwi. :o :D

McBain · #9

I really like the etching on the SS D'fly, it certainly adds to grip, and it hides the scratches a bit better. It is sad to see that one go, but I hope the etching of other SS knives continues.

I would LOVE to see an etched H1 Mariner !!!!

Although, I have absolutely no idea what goes into etching, how labor intensive/ material intensive it is.

mark greenman · #10

I'd love to see an ethced Delica with the FFG g10 delica blade. I think that would make for one **** of gentleman's knife/ heirloom piece.

dwong · #11

The Deacon wrote:Seems it has not gone over all that well, since the etched version one of one of the models offered that way was dropped for 2009. Am kind of surprised that all three models they tried it on were relatively small. The reaction to a larger model might be better (or, of course, worse).

As for me, not much interest in all stainless models, etched or otherwise, anymore and it's not something I'd want to see on bolsters, but would be happy to see an etched "re-run" of the all stainless Kiwi. :o :D

exactly what i was thinking :P

kimjune01 · #12

datan wrote:the wriggly worms scrawled all over a nice S/S knife

What I had in mind. I like the kiwi in the above post, though.

ozspyder · #13

Oooh that engraved Kiwi does look very nice, but in no way does that resemble the etched D'Fly etc...

Dwong, is that a Blanchard English Scroll engraved Kiwi ? Looks like Paul's engraved one. I'd love one of those and the Kiwi makes an excellent substrate for such fine workmanship :D :p

The Deacon · #14

datan wrote:Oooh that engraved Kiwi does look very nice, but in no way does that resemble the etched D'Fly etc...

Dwong, is that a Blanchard English Scroll engraved Kiwi ? Looks like Paul's engraved one. I'd love one of those and the Kiwi makes an excellent substrate for such fine workmanship :D :p

Daniel, that's my Marcus Hunt engraved one. For the record, it's not etched, the engraving on it was done with a burin (small chisel). This one was acid etched by Antonio Montejano...

[CENTER]

[/CENTER]

...quite a different feel. Etching leaves softer edges, so it does not add as much traction as burin engraving, but it's still a vast improvement over the brushed finish of the "stock" all stainless Spydercos.

Sr. Montejano does it by all by hand, but I imagine Spyderco uses photoengraving. Less labor intensive, but it still adds steps, time, and materials to the manufacturing process. Not to mention equipment, which not all makers may have.

Basic process involves painting a light sensitive coating called a "resist" onto the metal and letting it dry. A photographic negative is then placed over it, then it is exposed to the light. The exposed areas harden and become acid resistant, the unexposed areas do not. Acid is then applied. It cuts away the soft areas of the resist, and eats into the metal below it. That's a bit of an oversimplification, but it gives you a general idea of how it's done (or at least how it was done 20 odd years ago).

McBain · #15

Thanx for the info, Deacon!!! Those kiwis are beautiful!!! Too bad Spyderco couldn't have etching as an option on all SS handle knives. I guess tho that the etching is done in Japan (I'm not sure...??) as the only three current etched models are produced there. That would make the "option" part a little difficult...

The Deacon · #16

McBain wrote:Thanx for the info, Deacon!!! Those kiwis are beautiful!!! Too bad Spyderco couldn't have etching as an option on all SS handle knives. I guess tho that the etching is done in Japan (I'm not sure...??) as the only two current etched models are produced there. That would make the "option" part a little difficult...

You are probably right, then again, can't recall any all stainless Golden models. But I just looked at my etched D'fly and it appears to have been etched prior to assembly so it does look like it would have to be done wherever a given model is built.

dwong · #17

Thanks paul for the pix, I think you need to update your site...maybe a new group shot of kiwi, all of them :eek: :D

The Deacon wrote:Daniel, that's my Marcus Hunt engraved one. For the record, it's not etched, the engraving on it was done with a burin (small chisel). This one was acid etched by Antonio Montejano...

[CENTER]
[/CENTER]

...quite a different feel. Etching leaves softer edges, so it does not add as much traction as burin engraving, but it's still a vast improvement over the brushed finish of the "stock" all stainless Spydercos.

Sr. Montejano does it by all by hand, but I imagine Spyderco uses photoengraving. Less labor intensive, but it still adds steps, time, and materials to the manufacturing process. Not to mention equipment, which not all makers may have.

Basic process involves painting a light sensitive coating called a "resist" onto the metal and letting it dry. A photographic negative is then placed over it, then it is exposed to the light. The exposed areas harden and become acid resistant, the unexposed areas do not. Acid is then applied. It cuts away the soft areas of the resist, and eats into the metal below it. That's a bit of an oversimplification, but it gives you a general idea of how it's done (or at least how it was done 20 odd years ago).