Caring for knives in general

Discuss Spyderco's products and history.
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patrickbateman
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Caring for knives in general

#1

Post by patrickbateman »

Hi, always carried a folder, but new to spyderco's. I have a foliage green endura 4 now, combo edge. I have a PE SS cricket on order (overdue in mail by the way), and I just bought a Native III PE too. (hopefully in mail).

I will rotate them for EDC, and they will get light use only...I'm not pretending I'm Rambo in my spare time...

So...is the ocassional WD40 lightly coating the blade and hinge area sufficient, or should I be doing something else? I would like to keep my knives clean, sharp, and MINT.

Thanks guys/girls.
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vampyrewolf
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#2

Post by vampyrewolf »

mineral oil or breakfree on the pivot, light wipe of mineral oil on the blade should be enough.

without knowing where you are I can't tell if you'll need something for rust too (such as ren wax)
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Why do people worry more if you argue with your voices than if you just talk with them? What about if you lose those arguements?
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patrickbateman
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#3

Post by patrickbateman »

vampyrewolf wrote:mineral oil or breakfree on the pivot, light wipe of mineral oil on the blade should be enough.

without knowing where you are I can't tell if you'll need something for rust too (such as ren wax)
Canada! Thanks. So is WD40 frowned upon on knives?
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vampyrewolf
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#4

Post by vampyrewolf »

wd-40 is essentially alcohol, mineral oil, and a few impurities. better off just picking up a bottle of mineral oil for a few bucks... and it's safe for consumption.
Coffee before Conciousness
Why do people worry more if you argue with your voices than if you just talk with them? What about if you lose those arguements?
Slowly going crazy at work... they found a way to make the voices work too.
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gldfshkpr
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#5

Post by gldfshkpr »

patrickbateman wrote:Hi, always carried a folder, but new to spyderco's. I have a foliage green endura 4 now, combo edge. I have a PE SS cricket on order (overdue in mail by the way), and I just bought a Native III PE too. (hopefully in mail).

I will rotate them for EDC, and they will get light use only...I'm not pretending I'm Rambo in my spare time...

So...is the ocassional WD40 lightly coating the blade and hinge area sufficient, or should I be doing something else? I would like to keep my knives clean, sharp, and MINT.

Thanks guys/girls.

I can't really say it better than Spderco does on this website.

High-carbon premium stainless steels provide superior edge retention but can rust if not correctly cared for (rust is rarely the result of a manufacturing defect). Rust may form when your knife is used in a saltwater environment or exposed to moisture in general. If surface rust appears, buff the steel with a metal polishing compound before the steel becomes pitted. Thoroughly rinse salt water off with fresh water, dry your knife completely (inside and out) and apply a light coat of oil or silicone to all steel parts.

To ensure safe operation regularly inspect the interior of the knife for pocket lint and grime. Clean both the well of the lock and inside the handle often using a toothpick, hot water and mild soap or detergent. Rinse thoroughly, dry the knife inside and out and lubricate all steel components with oil or silicone. A couple drops of lubricant at the locking and pivot points will ensure smooth action.

LInk to the above info:
http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=5

And like others have said, mineral oil is a cheap and effective lube and protectant. Plus it's food safe.
kb

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[SIGPIC][/SIGPIC]
kukoka
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#6

Post by kukoka »

Hi,

I recall reading about WD40 leaving a sticky residue after extensive use. I use it when cleaning a badly jammed old folder but for regular knife care mineral oil is IMHO better.
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sixheads
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#7

Post by sixheads »

I live in Canada and i put 3 and 1 oil on my knives whenever i think about it. Some times once a month somtimes not for 3 months. I put a couple drops on all moving parts blade lock etc then wipe it down. There all in good shape i wouldnt get to carried away.


Sixheads
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THG
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#8

Post by THG »

I love WD-40 for cleaning the blade off. It was recommended to me here when I posted a thread about how to clean tape glue off of a blade after box cutting. I tried it, and that glue came off like nothing. Something that would have taken me 10 min of rubbing and wiping on a towel took about 10 seconds with WD-40.

For oiling the pivot, I use Hoppe's 9 oil.
RICHAR
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#9

Post by RICHAR »

I have long used REM-OIL. Spray can , Doesn't run out and stain clothing.
mserr
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#10

Post by mserr »

I coat the blade with CLP anytime I get a new knife. I let it sit over night so the oil actually impregnates the steel, so even when wiped of excess oil there is still plenty of protection in the steel. I also wipe whatever I'm carrying down with a silicon gun cloth each night just to keep it looking nice and clean. Repeat the CLP step about every 6 months.
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patrickbateman
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#11

Post by patrickbateman »

gldfshkpr wrote:I can't really say it better than Spderco does on this website.

High-carbon premium stainless steels provide superior edge retention but can rust if not correctly cared for (rust is rarely the result of a manufacturing defect). Rust may form when your knife is used in a saltwater environment or exposed to moisture in general. If surface rust appears, buff the steel with a metal polishing compound before the steel becomes pitted. Thoroughly rinse salt water off with fresh water, dry your knife completely (inside and out) and apply a light coat of oil or silicone to all steel parts.

To ensure safe operation regularly inspect the interior of the knife for pocket lint and grime. Clean both the well of the lock and inside the handle often using a toothpick, hot water and mild soap or detergent. Rinse thoroughly, dry the knife inside and out and lubricate all steel components with oil or silicone. A couple drops of lubricant at the locking and pivot points will ensure smooth action.

LInk to the above info:
http://www.spyderco.com/edge-u-cation/index.php?item=5

And like others have said, mineral oil is a cheap and effective lube and protectant. Plus it's food safe.
Thanks, and I did read that on spyderco, but its vague on what specific 'oil'...

I'll get mineral oil I think....and what is CLP??? I googled it and got nothing...
cyberspyder
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Location: Markham, Ontario, Canada, Earth

#12

Post by cyberspyder »

I use Tuf-glide/Tuf-cloth on all my knives.
I BLEED TOXIC GREEN
:spyder: SPYDIE NUT
:spyder:

:spyder: Spyderco OG Manix PE
:spyder: Spyderco Black Dodo SE *gone*
:spyder: Spyderco Black Paramilitary PE *gone*
:spyder: Spyderco SPOT PE *gone*
:spyder: Spyderco OG Blackhawk SE *gone*
:spyder: Spyderco Ladybug/Photon *gone*
JD Spydo
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Militec, Sentry Solutions & Breakfree

#13

Post by JD Spydo »

I use Militec for most of my basic lubrication needs for all moving parts on folders or autos. Militec also makes a very superior grease that I just discovered a little over a year ago.

Sentry Solutions is a company who has some great products that I really like as well. You just can't beat their Marine Grade "Tuf Cloth" for rubbing down your blades and a myriad of preventative maintenance work. They also have a dry lube that is great as well for applications that require a dry lube.

I agree with Vamp on the use of Breakfree for general rust prevention, cleaning and overall protection. Breakfree is another good product for cleaning certain handle materials.
Long Live the SPYDEREDGE Spyderco Hawkbills RULE!!
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